Clutch Pedal Engagement

[radioflyer]

Having an issue with the clutch engaging the last 5% of pedal throw. I know there's no way to adjust the MS3 pedal. I shot a video of the clutch cylinder moving and want to know if the clutch is worn or if the adjustment is just off. Does this look normal?

Clutch Pedal Engagement - YouTube

Clutch Pedal Engagement - YouTube

[timjs]

Slave cylinder throw looks perfect. Start saving for a clutch.

[radioflyer]

Fml i was afraid of that. Oh well it is what it is. Anyone else have a second opinon to offer?
Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[jm211]

Clutch material wear.

I second that.

Sorry.

[radioflyer]

Ok so I got a new clutch and I have the same issue now. Clutch pedal engages way to high for my preference.

I know the MS3 pedal "isn't adjustable", but what are my options?

Do I need to replace the whole dam pedal assembly? Is it even possible for something to wear out mechanically in the pedal assembly to cause high pedal engagement?

[timjs]

I think you should compare to another speed3 if you can. I think the first thing is to make sure your clutch pedal engagement is off.

I can't really think of anything that would cause the pedal to engage too high except a worn disc.

[radioflyer]

That's what I'm thinking too but this clutch has 1k miles on it. It JUST went in, like it's just about broken in at this point.

I distinctly remember my clutch engagement being almost at the floor when I first got the thing now it's like the last 15% of the throw. It feels like it's hanging on by a thread.

[mituc]

bleed your slave cylinder again.

[timjs]

Just to clarify, you're saying it grabs when it's almost all the way UP, or it grabs like straight off the floor?
That determines which direction to head.

Still, I suggest finding another MS3 to compare with.

[radioflyer]

I've driven a few ms3's and mine is way high. Like it engages too far from the floor.

I was thinking about bleeding it again but if there was air in the line, that would make the pedal mushy and it wouldn't fully disengage. My issue is the opposite, it engages too high as if the clutch is over worn and about to slip. But I don't see that being possible on a brand new clutch.

Is it possible the slave cylinder is having an issue?

[radioflyer]

Bump.

I really want to find out what I need to do to fix this, if you guys know anyone who had this issue please tag them.

[leon78]

My clutch engadges high...always has tho....just the nature of my speed.

[himurax13]

Cory, I would ask Randy about this. I noticed my pedal started to get stiff again but it was beaten pretty hard last weekend.

[radioflyer]

Yea I think I'm going to.

I just hate how far up it is, it just feels like it's going to slip at some point.

My fear is that it's not fully being released and that it's wearing out the pressure plate by keeping it sprung.

[himurax13]

Hmm, I had no idea that we could not adjust our clutch.

[timjs]

Clutch Pedal Height Inspection

1. Measure the distance from the center of the upper surface of the pedal pad to the floor covering.


If the clutch pedal height is not within the specification, replace the clutch pedal. (See CLUTCH PEDAL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION.)

Clutch pedal height (Reference value)
153.9 mm {6.059 in}

Clutch Pedal Free Play Inspection

1. Depress the clutch pedal by hand until clutch resistance is felt.


If the clutch pedal free play is not within the specification, replace the clutch pedal. (See CLUTCH PEDAL REMOVAL/INSTALLATION.)

Clutch pedal free play (Reference value)
15 mm {0.591 in} or less

Clutch Pedal Disengagement Point Inspection

CAUTION:

When performing inspections, always set the wheel blocks, set the parking brake, depress the brake pedal, and then perform the inspection with the brakes in operation. Otherwise, the vehicle could lurch and cause an accident.

1. Apply the parking brake and fix the front and rear of the wheels with the wheel chocks.
2. Start the engine.
3. With the clutch pedal depressed, move the shift lever to the position just before engaging the reverse gear. (Do not shift completely to reverse position)
4. Gradually release the clutch pedal and then hold it at the point where the sound of gear-grinding begins (clutch disengagement point).
5. Measure the distances indicated as follows from the clutch disengagement point and verify that they are within the specification.


If not within the specification, inspect the following:

Clutch fluid level

Air infiltration in clutch fluid line

Clutch malfunction (clutch cover, clutch release bearing, clutch fork)

Distance A, from clutch disengagement point to full stroke
23 mm {0.906 in} or more (Reference value)

Distance B, from clutch disengagement point to floor mat
65.6 mm {2.583 in} or more (Reference value)

Clutch pedal stroke
135 mm {5.315 in} (Reference value)

[leon78]

^ Legit mang!

[timjs]

Don't VIP members here also have access to shop manuals?

[radioflyer]

thanks @timjs;

The "pedal free play" area is about where I engage, it used to engage around where the middle pedal is in the last image which is exactly where I want it.

I'm going to be so frustrated and annoyed that I have to pay for entire motha fuckin pedal assembly just to get it back where it supposed to engage.

I'll talk to the mazda tech who installed my clutch and see what he has to say.

It only makes sense that it can be 1 of 2 things at this point: the pedal or the slave cylinder.

I literally replaced an almost brand new oem clutch with 10k on it because I thought I had worn the shit out of it due to high engagement.

Fuck fuck fuckity fuck fuck.

[timjs]

No problem.

I hope you get it figured out. I've had broken pedal assemblies at work before but they always engaged way low, like having air in the lines.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by radioflyer thanks @timjs; The "pedal free play" area is about where I engage, it used to engage around where the middle pedal is in the last image which is exactly where I want it. I'm going to be so frustrated and annoyed that I have to pay for entire motha fuckin pedal assembly just to get it back where it supposed to engage. I'll talk to the mazda tech who installed my clutch and see what he has to say. It only makes sense that it can be 1 of 2 things at this point: the pedal or the slave cylinder. I literally replaced an almost brand new oem clutch with 10k on it because I thought I had worn the shit out of it due to high engagement. Fuck fuck fuckity fuck fuck.

I feel your pain bro.

[ekanddsm]

I remember being some kind of adjustment. But dont rule out bent parts. The heavy clutches, tend to bend the clutch fork at times. But it entirely depends on how you drive them.

The clutch you have has a thinner disc than factory, so it makes sense that the engagement would be a lil higher up.

If your driving along, how much pedal travel does it take for the clutch to dis-engage if you push it in?

[radioflyer]

Originally Posted by ekanddsm I remember being some kind of adjustment. But dont rule out bent parts. The heavy clutches, tend to bend the clutch fork at times. But it entirely depends on how you drive them. The clutch you have has a thinner disc than factory, so it makes sense that the engagement would be a lil higher up. If your driving along, how much pedal travel does it take for the clutch to dis-engage if you push it in?

That's a good point actually, I didn't think about the new clutch being physically thinner than the OEM one.

[someguy]

Just a random bump...was it determined that the clutch was fully engaging? My slave cylinder movement looks roughly the same as his but I'm slipping at WOT sometimes in the higher gears. It is possible mine is worn out but Mazda did a clutch pedal on my car a while back so I'm wondering if they botched something in the process.

[Mattyhawk1]

Kinda funny you bumped this, I was looking at this thread just a couple days ago. My engagement it right at the top and feels like it slips a bit at WOT, much like the OP also.

I gather from the thread that the OP sold the car instead of fix it.

[someguy]

Originally Posted by Mattyhawk1 Kinda funny you bumped this, I was looking at this thread just a couple days ago. My engagement it right at the top and feels like it slips a bit at WOT, much like the OP also. I gather from the thread that the OP sold the car instead of fix it.

Go figure...I was more interested in the slave cylinder but I found another thread @phate; posted with the normal positions of it and OP's video is pretty similar.

I've got a new clutch sitting waiting to go in but brain started spinning about the possibility that my clutch wasn't fully engaging because of pressure still on the throwout with the pedal out, but I think that's not the case from what I'm seeing/feeling.

[radioflyer]

I did sell the car, however here's a few details I seem to have overlooked in this thread.

Shortly after I had the new OEM clutch installed, the clutch slipped VERY bad due to extenuating circumstances after a fender bender on the freeway. So bad, the interior smelled like burning clutch for a couple days. Basically it slipped during the crash and I had to roast it to get the car moving and out of harms way which I'm guessing halved the life of the OEM clutch.

I then went and replaced it with ACT 6 puck and single mass flywheel. That clutch was paper thin compared to the OEM when looking at them side by side.

I wasn't getting any slippage with the OEM after I cooked it, but the pedal engagement position was enough to make me want to replace it.