everything neded to build motor?

[ms3boost]

since people are starting to blow there fully bolted reowrked turbo speeds on meth, that is really starting to make me wanna just say fuck it go big or go home and put a gt30 on the car
i was wondering what is all need to do a built motor?
-pistons
-rods
-arp head studs?
what gaskets are needed and is there any bearings needed?

[Grim]

yes you will need main and rod bearings.you might as well get a full gasket set.

[andre0121]

ill sell you my whole kit brand new

[subparpunk03]

Clutch. Do the clutch while the engine is out of the car. With a built motor you're gonna want a clutch and its a 45 minute job with the engine removed vs. an 8 hour job with the engine still in.

[ms3boost]

Originally Posted by subparpunk03 Clutch. Do the clutch while the engine is out of the car. With a built motor you're gonna want a clutch and its a 45 minute job with the engine removed vs. an 8 hour job with the engine still in.

dont worry i had another thread about that made and would be doing it at the same time

[MarkyMark]

Rods
Pistons
Rod/Main bearings & thrust washer
ARP main and head studs
Clutch/Flywheel
Flywheel Bolts
Crank pulley bolt
Full gasket set

I stock all of these on a regular basis.

[ATE BALLER]

Don't forget machine work.

[subparpunk03]

FWIW I don't think shon did any machinework on his motor, but when I asked him what he would have done differently he said he would have done it instead of skipping it.

[SharkDiver]

Do the machine work...If your not going to do it right then dont do it at all.Your going to want to bore it .020 over also just to get rid of mazda crappy machine work they done to the car.

[ptperformance]

Better yet, get a built motor with the proper parts in it all ready. Simple. Sure it will cost more, but in the long run and after the assembly time and machine shop work, your going to be just as far into it as if you would have bought one from a vendor.

We will have motors for your cars here very soon, that are properly built.

[Crossbow]

I'd also consider doing any and all modifications to the engine at that time as well.

For example, getting the ring gear cut off the crank prior to being balanced. Installing a windage tray, or a baffle tray. Installing a lightweight pulley prior to timing anything...clutch/flywheel. Whatever manifold you choose for the car. If you're doing cam's, now's the time! Valve jobs, etc.

If your car has a lot of miles on it, I'd consider replacing the water pump, thermostat. (Heck if the car has a real lot of miles, might inspect the oil pump)

Of course replace all seals, gaskets. If you have the money, I'd get a silicon radiator hose kit...why bother putting the rubber junk back on there if you don't have to....far easier to install those hoses while the engine is being put back in, then afterwords.

On that point, I'd also replace all the pcv valves, and replace all vacuum lines with silicon instead of rubber.

To really do it right, you want pretty much every single wear item replaced...that way you'll be good for another 100k+ miles after the rebuild. It always sucks to spend all that time, all that money replacing and rebuilding an engine, and then have some cheap ass wear item part break and have to take all this crap apart to replace it...when you could have done it at the same time in a few minutes.

[ms3boost]

Originally Posted by Crossbow I'd also consider doing any and all modifications to the engine at that time as well. For example, getting the ring gear cut off the crank prior to being balanced. Installing a windage tray, or a baffle tray. Installing a lightweight pulley prior to timing anything...clutch/flywheel. Whatever manifold you choose for the car. If you're doing cam's, now's the time! Valve jobs, etc. If your car has a lot of miles on it, I'd consider replacing the water pump, thermostat. (Heck if the car has a real lot of miles, might inspect the oil pump) Of course replace all seals, gaskets. If you have the money, I'd get a silicon radiator hose kit...why bother putting the rubber junk back on there if you don't have to....far easier to install those hoses while the engine is being put back in, then afterwords. On that point, I'd also replace all the pcv valves, and replace all vacuum lines with silicon instead of rubber. To really do it right, you want pretty much every single wear item replaced...that way you'll be good for another 100k+ miles after the rebuild. It always sucks to spend all that time, all that money replacing and rebuilding an engine, and then have some cheap ass wear item part break and have to take all this crap apart to replace it...when you could have done it at the same time in a few minutes.

my car is a 08 bought in October of 2007 and still doesn't even have 4,000 miles on it!

[socks]

Originally Posted by subparpunk03 FWIW I don't think shon did any machinework on his motor, but when I asked him what he would have done differently he said he would have done it instead of skipping it.

no no no

i did "minimal" machine work. did not do balancing.

if i were to do it again, i would do things alot different. id go all out. i would have left the compression stock.

[smokedyou19]

sleeves balanceshaft removal

[mrjoshyman]

Originally Posted by ms3boost my car is a 08 bought in October of 2007 and still doesn't even have 4,000 miles on it!

jeezel i put on 4k miles nearly every 2 months. neway, guess you wont have to worry about changing a lot of that stuff

[danesti]

damn... with me being in the shop 5 hours a day for 16 days this summer with tools and a bitchin` new engine building room, with nothing to do but "keep occupied", its kinda tempting to buy a beater and go big with the help of the instructor and a group of students.
fuck me.

(Danems6 currently looking on autotrader for cheap truck)