The Motor Mount Thread

[Gitcherex]

Im looking at the JBR trilogy kit, and I seen that its recommended for the 80 rmm and tmm but only a 70 pmm. Would this not cause excessive wear on the mounts because two of them are vibrating more (or something)? Also I seen that JBR posted a 10% off code a while back, is there another sale coming up for Columbus day or an actual holiday lol.

[Raider]

I loaded up on the 3 running the highest duro. I love it.

[Gitcherex]

Originally Posted by Raider I loaded up on the 3 running the highest duro. I love it.

how is the nvh? It is my DD and the wife wouldnt like it if it vibrated more than her BoB's.

[Raider]

They settle over time.

Do some reading on msf so many threads about this were discussed. This is not the tread for it.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Gitcherex how is the nvh? It is my DD and the wife wouldnt like it if it vibrated more than her BoB's.

Leaving the TMM and PMM stock, a 80duro RMM will shred your brains out. A 70duro PMM will ensure that the windows will pop off to vent the brain remains out. A 80duro TMM will make sure that whatever is still left into your skull will be drilled out. Ask me how I know.
Back in 2010 I fell into the same trap of other users here, "I have this and that mount and I love it, NVH increase is minimal". Probably minimal if you drive with the windows down, stereo at one third of the total volume, or if you're half deaf. I didn't fit in any of these categories. Since then I had about 75% of all aftermarket RMMs and tried them out. Of course the factory PMM went back in, and since about 2 years now I'm using the gen2 TMM with the CS insert (which in this configuration makes the engine stay a bit twisted as I can see where the transmission bracket and the RMM hotizontal bolt meet, but I'm ok with this and it's a good setup).

If you DD your car, take it to medium/long trips with your familiy and so on, then leave the PMM and TMM stock. If you have a gen2 MS3 or if you can get a gen2 TMM on a gen1 you can install the CS TMM insert, and that's about it.

As for the RMM you can get the JBR 70duro. I don't know how the CS 80duro is, I only have the 70duro which for some absolutely idiotic reason they don't make any more, but the CS 80duro may be an option as well (the 70duro is as quiet as the stock one, so I imagine the 80duro may be something like the CP-e 60duro

[Raider]

I had the 88 solo with more vibes from trz TMM. Went JBR sides a sit went down.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Raider I had the 88 solo with more vibes from trz TMM. Went JBR sides a sit went down.

Unfortunately stiffer side mounts (PMM+TMM) that we currently have available are still too much for a DD. Of course it depends on how you daily drive that car, if it's just for commuting, how long the commute is, if you also track the car often enough to become unfeasible to swap the motor mounts and the time, how much you hoon the car because being deep into the throttle all the time may make the extra NVH from the mounts unnoticeable, and so on.

In my case I managed to get the car where it is with minimal almost no NVH increase (it's only the DP that makes the car a bit louder at low speeds, but at cruising speeds the NVH increase is 0). However, if I'd drag race the car then the motor mounts I have probably will last 20-30 passes before I either blow them (the PMM) or wear them out (TMM/RMM). And that's not even that much. Or tracking the car on circuit racing often enough will also result in MM premature wear, because all those braking/hard acceleration reprises will take their toll on the mounts and the chassis itself.

The point is that we need to find the right balance when using, or even recommending a part to someone. It's like, "I want to go big turbo, what turbo should I get?", next answer "go 3580!". Wait, no! There are some questions that need to be answered first: what are the power goals, is the motor forged, is it a MS3 or MS6, what do you intend to use the car for (use that power or just have a dyno queen that puts power down properly only in 6th in street tires?), so on and so on.

This current MM thread is only about what we have available, not also what and when to chose. Not making the right choice results into frustration, in not being able to enjoy the car as much, or even hate it.
We have all these vendors with awesome looking parts and all of them fully and properly functional. But it's not only this, what's the point of giving the duro rating of the urethane/rubber bushes if the end user is not aware of the actual noise increase in the cabin? We have motor mounts with 60duro bushes as loud as other 80duro mounts, so it's all very confusing for someone new to this.

So for those who DD the car, go in long trips with it eventually with kids, and still want to enjoy the extra madness they added under the hood leave the side mounts stock and pick the RMM wisely.

[Nevershallifall]

Forgive me if I missed the information but I didn't see link and picture for the Damond TMM.

[MS3Shadow]

Probs needs to be updated.

sent from my Nexus 6P

[mituc]

The initial post needs a little update: the CS TMM insert for MS3 works on gen1 only if you import the TMM, the tripod it bolts on and the long bolt from a gen2.

Also, did anyone have the Cobb RMM, the CorkSport racemount with 80DURO bushings and the DamondMotorsport RMM and can compare them in therms of NVH? I'll run out of 70DURO bushings for the CS RMM soon, the 80DURO don't seem to last, so I'm looking for alternatives for a RMM good for both daily commutes and spirited driving on a relatively high torque car (450+ lb*ft). I've had the JBR 70DURO and it's a bit louder than I'd like, the CS 80DURO is fine, so can anyone tell how are the three mentioned above relatively to each other?

[Nevershallifall]

So far I have found the cpe stage 2 to be my favorite rmm but the dmm one that my friend got is pretty amazing also. I debated switching so I was running the dmm 3 sum

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Nevershallifall So far I have found the cpe stage 2 to be my favorite rmm but the dmm one that my friend got is pretty amazing also. I debated switching so I was running the dmm 3 sum

Pretty "amazing" in therms of what and compared to which other mounts?
I had the CP-e 60DURO and it was quite crappy. Clunks and squeaks everywhere. Most probably the Stage2 one is better but it's also stiffer because it eliminates the big round bush and that's not what I'm after.

[mituc]

Ok, to answer my own question above it looks like the Cobb RMM is quieter than the JBR 70A (and probably not as stiff, but stiff enough).

[MS3Shadow]

Well anything is quieter than JBR

sent from my Nexus 6P

[Gigawatz]

The warning thread that is linked to from this thread is dead.
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...3/#post1927730

I just replaced my RMM with a Damond and found out that it was a Street Unit. I was curious to read what was reported with the warning thread - unfortunately it must have been "the shit" for the conversation because everywhere has linked to it. However, it is now no where to be found and I tried using a google site based search and the internal search routines to relocate it and I have failed.

Was it deleted or was it moved? Do you guys have any idea?

[El Diablo's Master]

Any feedback about the CS PMM?

[kTaLgsTo]

Yeah it holds the engine in place, are you talking version one or two?

[El Diablo's Master]

I'm gonna be honest, didn't know there were two versions haha. I'm referring to the MM that CS is currently selling on their website.

[kTaLgsTo]

They sell two... A one piece mount (first rev) and a two piece.

[El Diablo's Master]

This is the one I'm referring to https://corksport.com/corksport-mazd...tor-mount.html

[kTaLgsTo]

Well I do appologize, I could have swore you wrote rmm, not pmm....

That pmm is well and good, but I've heard damond motor mounts are the best...

Most people's comments are damond or nothing

[El Diablo's Master]

No worries, my friend. Thanks for the help I'll check it out now!