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 Old 04-07-2011, 01:43 PM   #81
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I have an engine hoist at my machine shop how long roughly should/it take with the engine out of the car vs in the car. I'd rather not have to deal with disconnecting coolant lines and what have you
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 Old 04-07-2011, 02:05 PM   #82
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Charles would deff know the answer to this one. As he has done it both ways. Wait for him to chime in.
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 Old 04-13-2011, 05:31 PM   #83
 
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What is the part number for the crank pulley bolt. I can't find it on mazda-parts.com
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 Old 04-13-2011, 06:02 PM   #84
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LF01-11-406
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 Old 04-13-2011, 07:09 PM   #85
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^^^^ this guy is the man.
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 Old 04-13-2011, 07:17 PM   #86
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Per PM MS3-oholic:

LF01-11-406 Is Crank Bolt: Yes Please buy a new one and torque in two increments.
L321-12-428 Is Cam Bolt: They have changed from a bolt and separate washer to a bolt with a flange, the size of the head is different as well. No big deal. Just observations through the revisions.
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 Old 04-14-2011, 05:28 PM   #87
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View My Video <- Before Knife
View My Video <- After Knife

This particular car only had 18K miles on it.
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 Old 04-14-2011, 06:55 PM   #88
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That's ridiculous. 18k?!? Wtf are us guys who are well out of warranty supposed to do, when it seems as though this has to be done basically every 30k?
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 Old 04-15-2011, 09:40 AM   #89
 
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Originally Posted by Tech/Sales@EM View Post




View My Video <- Before Knife
View My Video <- After Knife

This particular car only had 18K miles on it.
Wow! That's crazy, I'm gonna start ordering my parts while Charles puts together his writeup. Man!
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 Old 04-15-2011, 04:20 PM   #90
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Originally Posted by Alpha View Post
Perfect as I'll need the tools too! Please updated this thread with progress and we'll be in touch. Thanks bro!


Their you are my friend. Timing peg made of steel so it wont deform while tightening crank bolt, and aluminum camshaft alignment tool. PM for pricing or rental.
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 Old 04-15-2011, 09:06 PM   #91
 
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Originally Posted by Tech/Sales@EM View Post


Their you are my friend. Timing peg made of steel so it wont deform while tightening crank bolt, and aluminum camshaft alignment tool. PM for pricing or rental.
Nice! I'll PM you first thing Monday morning, thanks man!
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 Old 04-16-2011, 10:47 PM   #92
 
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Sorry, not experienced enough to send PMs. I am interested in renting the tools. I just picked up chain, tensioner, and actuator from the dealer....and crank bolt!!
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 Old 04-17-2011, 06:16 AM   #93
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I have a question.
Would a less than perfect chain tension have an effect on power?
This is me 07 vs a 2010. In text I'm run no.1. We make the same power, but I make 22 more lb/ft. This would almost make me believe I have a healthy stock motor, but, if the chain tension does not have any barring on output, I may still need to do it.
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 Old 04-17-2011, 06:39 AM   #94
 
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i don't think the chain will affect any performance as long as the timing doesn't jump. If you have slack just change it. You wouldn't want it to jump timing and have your valves smash into your pistons.
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 Old 04-17-2011, 07:32 AM   #95
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Oh how true that is.
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 Old 04-17-2011, 10:13 AM   #96
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Originally Posted by clydesdale29er View Post
Sorry, not experienced enough to send PMs. I am interested in renting the tools. I just picked up chain, tensioner, and actuator from the dealer....and crank bolt!!
40 rental
25 For Timing Peg
85 For Cam Lock Bar


110 Total for both.
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 Old 04-18-2011, 02:55 PM   #97
 
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PM me so we can arrange payment please. Thanks for the help man.
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 Old 05-16-2011, 05:47 PM   #98
 
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Ok, I've got 86k on the motor and just started hearing the vvt at startup. After looking at this thread, decided to start the tear down. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but I can't seem to get the crank bolt off. I have two different impact guns and nothing. I resorted to blows from hammer on torque wrench. Still nothing. Any ideas? Just don't want to do anymore damage.
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 Old 05-16-2011, 07:33 PM   #99
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Originally Posted by clydesdale29er View Post
PM me so we can arrange payment please. Thanks for the help man.
Have not heard back from you...
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 Old 05-17-2011, 03:48 AM   #100
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Looks as though I'll be ordering my new parts by the end of next week. Really wish I was using that money for mods, but there's no way I'm gonna risk this engine getting mods before I know it's healthy.
Next I need to track down my oil consumption problem...
Reeeeeally hoping it's not ring seals.
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 Old 05-17-2011, 04:02 AM   #101
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Well you can test your compression while your doing this job. I was in between 180-200 cold. So I take it my oil consumption is all secondary to the turbo seals.
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 Old 05-17-2011, 04:46 AM   #102
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I'll be sure to do the compression test.
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 Old 05-18-2011, 01:21 PM   #103
 
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Originally Posted by Tech/Sales@EM View Post
I did it with motor out of car so it wasnt that difficult. The issue was not having the tools hence why I have a bunch being made in a CNC shop right now. I tried by eye balling but when I went to double check to see how close I was on timing...once I took the HPFP off I found out how off I was.

Valve Cover Gasket: L3K9-10-230
Serpentine: L3K9-15-909-9U
Chain: L3K9-12-201A
Actuator: L3K9-12-4X0C
Tensioner: L3K9-12-500A
Washer: L3K9-12-429
CamShaft Bolt: LF01-11-406

I replaced everything as if I tear it down I want it back together new and I know in best working order. Serpentine could easily be reused but in my case was covered in ATF from the PS reservoir so it was weakened.
Just to be certain, by "CamShaft bolt" you meant CRANKshaft bolt correct? I don't remember seeing any bolts on the cams themselves and the part number listed comes up as a crank bolt.

Thanks.
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 Old 05-18-2011, 03:36 PM   #104
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Bolts thread into cams holding the sprockets in place. a washer is found between the cam and the sprocket.
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 Old 05-18-2011, 03:40 PM   #105
 
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Originally Posted by Tech/Sales@EM View Post
Bolts thread into cams holding the sprockets in place. a washer is found between the cam and the sprocket.
So we need cam bolts too?

That part # should be put on the list considering the one in there now is for a crank bolt, which we need too.
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 Old 05-18-2011, 03:58 PM   #106
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Didnt add them as you dont "Need" them. Crank bolt you do however.

Valve Cover Gasket: L3K9-10-230
Serpentine: L3K9-15-909-9U
Chain: L3K9-12-201A
Actuator: L3K9-12-4X0C
Tensioner: L3K9-12-500A
Washer: L3K9-12-429
Crankshaft Bolt: LF01-11-406
Camshaft Bolts 2x: L321-12-428 Not required.

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 Old 05-18-2011, 04:04 PM   #107
 
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Gotcha, thanks!
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 Old 05-18-2011, 04:05 PM   #108
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any of you guys consider going with the upgraded DCR VVT while your in there?

I would....

thanks Tech/Sales, qtrmile and OP for all the helpful info
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 Old 05-18-2011, 04:10 PM   #109
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I will ask a member on here to post here as he is running DCR and redoing chain timing job.
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 Old 05-18-2011, 04:16 PM   #110
 
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Originally Posted by Dano2010 View Post
any of you guys consider going with the upgraded DCR VVT while your in there?

I would....

thanks Tech/Sales, qtrmile and OP for all the helpful info
Absolutely. My DCR's sitting right here next to my Corksport LW crank pulley waiting for the rest of the parts.
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 Old 05-18-2011, 04:17 PM   #111
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whats the cost delta between the DCR and OEM?

just curious...
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 Old 05-18-2011, 04:38 PM   #112
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OEM lists for 127$
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 Old 05-18-2011, 04:39 PM   #113
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DCR lists $239

http://www.dcrsrt.com/index.php?sear...wCat&Submit=Go

so almost double the price but worth the piece of mind
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 Old 05-19-2011, 02:04 PM   #114
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I was just quoted over 10 hours labour from Mazda at over 100 bucks an hour, plus parts. For those who have done this, how long does it actually take, and how much harder is it to do with the engine in the car? I'm really apprehensive about trying this myself, but I almost have no choice.
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 Old 05-19-2011, 02:09 PM   #115
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I would be extremely cautions on DIY if you are concerned. Get help, even go to a non-Dealer shop. I have 2-2007's, a CX-7 and MS3. Both 2006 build, very early. I would love to replace the chains as preventive, but not for the $1100-1400 price tag. If I run into a problem, I will be indeed getting a shop to do it.
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 Old 05-19-2011, 02:25 PM   #116
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I'm just worried a non Mazda shop won't undersand the timing procedures and just mark off the crank and cams and slap the chain on.
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 Old 05-19-2011, 02:26 PM   #117
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Don't go to the ghetto. Go a decent shop. Research through BBB, and check em out. Good techs will know the right way.
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 Old 05-19-2011, 06:11 PM   #118
 
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it toke me about 3.5 hours to tear it down and another 4 hours to get it put back together.it isnt as hard as you would think,just take your time and you will be fine.
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 Old 05-19-2011, 06:25 PM   #119
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I'm a machinist by trade working as a programmer in the aerospace sector. I'm mechanical, but by no means a mechanic.
Did you pull the whole motor or just the passenger side mount, wheel and fender liner?
Also, all the a/c hard lines run right over where I need to work it looks like. What did you do about those?
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 Old 05-20-2011, 07:03 AM   #120
 
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Originally Posted by Tokay444 View Post
I'm a machinist by trade working as a programmer in the aerospace sector. I'm mechanical, but by no means a mechanic.
Did you pull the whole motor or just the passenger side mount, wheel and fender liner?
Also, all the a/c hard lines run right over where I need to work it looks like. What did you do about those?
I guess this is still under construction but itll help...
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...47/#post859693

...Tread description is inaccurate
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