Replacing timing chain

[Raider]

LOL, that guy is banned, brownie. I know for a fact, there is a seller in VIP who works at the dealer who sells kits for sub $300.

[Mandinca]

Thanks Raider. As you can see I'm a noob here. How do I contact the seller, do I join VIP membership first ?

[8.5MS3]

you cannot contact them here, they were kicked out for a reason

google them and deal with em direct if you want

[Raider]

You do not wanna do business with a banned vendor. If you go VIP, I will post/pm you who you need to talk to, ok?

You need 5 more posts for PM access. I recommend posting a thread with pics of your car, too.

[Mandinca]

Thanks again although I'm having second thoughts now I've seen the price of the SST's. When I add in the $200 for them to the cost of the parts and the tools I'll need to buy (torque wrenches, breakers and deep sockets) I'm starting to get close to the dealer's price to handle the repair. Does anyone sell them once they've used them ? What kind of prices ?
If you can give me an idea I'll give the membership some thought.

[Raider]

This is not a "weekender" project. The cams are not marked, and if not 100% set, timing is off. I personally recommend getting the parts at a steal from VIP member who has access/sells OEM Mazda parts, taking to the dealer for install.

I personally paid $1200 for this last year on my CX-7. Then found another local dealer said they would do it for $550 plus parts. Parts I think are about $300 from this seller on here.

I am good at working on cars, but when I saw all the other fails at non-mazda shops even fucking it up, I sent mine to the dealer.

If you get it done, get the old parts. DCR Racing pays $75 for used VVT actuator cores, sent via paypal.

[Mandinca]

I haven't seen to many horror stories yet but as I am a weekender maybe I am better leaving this to the dealer. I've read a few how to's and they all seem straightforward with the right tools. I will be rebuilding the turbo myself once the VVT is fixed.
I'll look into buying the parts myself and asking the dealer to fit them - thanks for the info on DCR btw.

[Raider]

I will also assume you are over 70K miles.
See:
http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...thread-102153/

Stock out with your cock out, if you attempt warranty.

[Mandinca]

Oh yes, trust me, I know about those. I have a story.
My wife and I both bought new Mazda's on the same day at the same dealer late in 2006. She got a CX-7 and me a Speed6, both Grand Touring. We put 100K warranties on both.
At about 25K my MS6 started smoking and the dealer "fixed it" under warranty. At the time I didn't know what it was and wasn't to bothered to know either since it was covered.
Fast forward to a month ago and my wife calls me to tell me there is a horrible rattle from her engine and she can't accelerate. She was a couple of miles from home so I went out and got her. I babied her car home and she drove the MS6.
We both now have about 120K on them. I knew immediately that her motor was fucked but didn't know why until I checked the oil. She only had about a quart and a half in it. We towed it to Mazda.
Just prior to this my MS6 had started rattling on cold starts and I spoke to a former Mazda tech who assured me it was nothing to worry about and that the fix was $1500 and in his opinion unnecessary on a car that age....so, based on his opinion I ignored it.
Anyway, back at Mazda the service department told us it would be $10,000 to replace the motor on the CX-7. At this point I flipped on him because I had done some research on here after we dropped it off and I now knew that the problem was likely caused by the turbo leaking oil into the exhaust which caused low engine oil (with no warnings either) which basically detonated the motor. Since they (Mazda) knew very well about the issue of the smoking turbo and when mine had been replaced they didn't even warn us that my wife’s could go bad I thought it only reasonable that it be covered under warranty. Anyway, we stamped our feet a bit and took it up a few levels in Mazda and they eventually repaired it all for $3,800. We got it back last week. They even had the nerve to ask if we would prefer to just trade it in for a newer model instead of repairing it.
The MS6 now needs the VVT repaired, presumably a new chain and tensioners then the turbo rebuild. They quoted me $3,500 for all of it which presumably means a new turbo instead of a rebuild. They “generously” offered to drop their labor charge from $94/hr to $64/hr on what they tell me is an 18 hr quoted job. (I expect the figure in the parts when quoting a by the hr job).
As I said earlier I’ve found the rebuild kit online for about $50 and have seen the how to videos from here for removal and rebuild. Mazda can GFT if they think they are doing all the work on my dime. I should use the 2K to buy a better turbo…

In the meantime I keep it under 3500 rpm and stay off the boost.....and pray.

Will I buy another Mazda after this ?
Fuck no.

[speed31982]

I have the timing tools if you want to rent them. Located on MD.

[Mandinca]

Thanks, what do you charge on the rental and shipping to CT ?

[Icemn]

Jesus mary and joseph...

I did the test and i can basically pull my chain off the fcking pulley :'(

It ia me and the bluddy warranty now, i took my car for a service 5000kms ago and they didnt pick this issue up as it was there before i took it in...

I thought the stutter was from blocked intake valves etc

Fck me sideways...


Not Sent from my iPhone and Definitely Not using Tapatalk

[ZXRider]

Originally Posted by Mandinca Oh yes, trust me, I know about those. I have a story. My wife and I both bought new Mazda's on the same day at the same dealer late in 2006. She got a CX-7 and me a Speed6, both Grand Touring. We put 100K warranties on both. At about 25K my MS6 started smoking and the dealer "fixed it" under warranty. At the time I didn't know what it was and wasn't to bothered to know either since it was covered. Fast forward to a month ago and my wife calls me to tell me there is a horrible rattle from her engine and she can't accelerate. She was a couple of miles from home so I went out and got her. I babied her car home and she drove the MS6. We both now have about 120K on them. I knew immediately that her motor was fucked but didn't know why until I checked the oil. She only had about a quart and a half in it. We towed it to Mazda. Just prior to this my MS6 had started rattling on cold starts and I spoke to a former Mazda tech who assured me it was nothing to worry about and that the fix was $1500 and in his opinion unnecessary on a car that age....so, based on his opinion I ignored it. Anyway, back at Mazda the service department told us it would be $10,000 to replace the motor on the CX-7. At this point I flipped on him because I had done some research on here after we dropped it off and I now knew that the problem was likely caused by the turbo leaking oil into the exhaust which caused low engine oil (with no warnings either) which basically detonated the motor. Since they (Mazda) knew very well about the issue of the smoking turbo and when mine had been replaced they didn't even warn us that my wife’s could go bad I thought it only reasonable that it be covered under warranty. Anyway, we stamped our feet a bit and took it up a few levels in Mazda and they eventually repaired it all for $3,800. We got it back last week. They even had the nerve to ask if we would prefer to just trade it in for a newer model instead of repairing it. The MS6 now needs the VVT repaired, presumably a new chain and tensioners then the turbo rebuild. They quoted me $3,500 for all of it which presumably means a new turbo instead of a rebuild. They “generously” offered to drop their labor charge from $94/hr to $64/hr on what they tell me is an 18 hr quoted job. (I expect the figure in the parts when quoting a by the hr job). As I said earlier I’ve found the rebuild kit online for about $50 and have seen the how to videos from here for removal and rebuild. Mazda can GFT if they think they are doing all the work on my dime. I should use the 2K to buy a better turbo… In the meantime I keep it under 3500 rpm and stay off the boost.....and pray. Will I buy another Mazda after this ? Fuck no.

well, shit. my sisters CX-7 just did this, i went over to verify it was the VVT, she said it lurched and wouldn't accelerate while driving about 40 mph and there was rattling noise, I felt under the valve cover for chain slack, and found some, but idk if her motors fucked or not, sounds like it skipped timing, but if it did, it sounds normal, no knocking. any ideas? i was just gonna have her order the parts for the VVT rebuild and fix it myself.

[Tokay444]

Chain tension needs to be verified with cyl 1 @ TDC.
There a quite a few things that would cause a car to not accelerate. The stereotypical VVT failure isn't one of them. The VVT rattle happens at cold start.

[Mandinca]

You could pull the timing cover and look for marks on the inside above the timing chain. I don't know if it's necessarily indicative of a loose chain or bad VVT but maybe others can comment on that.

[Tokay444]

Lots of people report scars on the valve cover on higher mileage vehicles.
I've yet to see anyone confirm they have a car WITHOUT scars on the valve cover.

[Mandinca]

You can also check the VVT to see if the "button" is worn. Think of the VVT as a short cylinder, the button is on the outer wall. If it's wearing away the metal on the wall around it it's probably toast. If it's missing altogether then drain the oil and hope it comes out with the oil. Some people say there's a chance it could get into the timing gear and cause the chain to hop a tooth, seems unlikely but IDK.

[Tommy]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 Lots of people report scars on the valve cover on higher mileage vehicles. I've yet to see anyone confirm they have a car WITHOUT scars on the valve cover.

Add me to thst list. 174k miles and clear chain grooves on the cover. Im getting my chain done at a dealer. The savings vs risk aren't worth it to me.

[Tokay444]

@06Speed6;
http://www.mazdalab.ru/assets/files/...83;я.pdf

[74te27]

Originally Posted by Tommy Add me to thst list. 174k miles and clear chain grooves on the cover. Im getting my chain done at a dealer. The savings vs risk aren't worth it to me.

I'm on the same boat, I have rattling sound during cold start and I'm at 143k. I got 3 quotes from 3 Mazda dealer the highest quote 2,100.00 and the lowest 1,400.00.

[06Speed6]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 Lots of people report scars on the valve cover on higher mileage vehicles. I've yet to see anyone confirm they have a car WITHOUT scars on the valve cover.

Originally Posted by Tokay444 @06Speed6; http://www.mazdalab.ru/assets/files/...83;я.pdf

My car didn't have any valve or timing cover groves and my vvt was on its way out but not quite there at 168k miles.

I know all of that vvt stuff.

[RalliartRsX]

Looks like I'm going to be tackling this in a few weeks

[Tokay444]

Originally Posted by 06Speed6 My car didn't have any valve or timing cover groves and my vvt was on its way out but not quite there at 168k miles. I know all of that vvt stuff.

The reason for the mention was to show you just how many MZR's have a VVT.

And yes, chain stretch and VVT are two separate issues. Likely unrelated.

[06Speed6]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 The reason for the mention was to show you just how many MZR's have a VVT. And yes, chain stretch and VVT are two separate issues. Likely unrelated.

That list for sure isn't complete unless there are different VVTs. Having said that there are some older MZRs and maybe some miata MZRs that missed out on VVT. The majority of MZRs produced in the last 2 model cycles have had it though.

[Tokay444]

This of course all stems from the head gasket thread.
The document however, fits the subject matter if this thread better. Hence the mention.

[JVal1283]

I'm hoping nothing fails on me...we bought the CX-7 used with 91k on the clock, and we've driven over 1k miles in a week, with no issues. Other than the rattle on cold start up which goes away immediately. Looking at getting the chain done in a few weeks. But the dealer has a 2 week wait on any Mazda service work.

It's mainly just daily driven, and driven pretty easy...

[Raider]

Cold rattle is VVT failing. Make the appointment, and get it in there ASAP.

[JVal1283]

crap...ok

[CharlieChuckles]

Can anyone confirm whether it is necessary to remove the right drive axle in order to get the crankshaft locking SST in? I have purchased the parts and tools required to replace my timing chain online and am waiting for them to arrive. In the meantime I would like to have things disassembled, cleaned and ready to go. Visually it looks like there won't be enough clearance, but I won't know for sure until I receive the SST. I am hoping one of you experienced Mazda owners could share some of your knowledge.

Cheers.

[JVal1283]

idk how much of a difference there is on the cx-7, but I didn't have to remove any axle to get to anything

[rstevko7878]

Does anybody know please when to replace timing chain kit on CX7 2.3 turbo? My car is 2007 with 358thousand kilometres on the clock and still running nice, smooth and quiet. The engine has never been dismantled, all parts are original since new. What is the chain replacement interval? 500K kilometres? Cannot find any information anywhere. Or just leave it and wait for first signs of rattling sound? Thanks a lot for any help...

Odoslané z HUAWEI P7-L10 pomocou Tapatalku

[Tomas Novak]

Originally Posted by Mandinca Will I buy another Mazda after this ? Fuck no.

What did you buy ?

[Exclus23]

I have a 2006 Mazda 3S hatchback with 192,000 miles that is throwing a p0011 ("A" Camshaft Position - Timing Over-Advanced or System Performance (Bank 1)) and p0016 (Crank/Cam Position Correlation – Bank 1 Sensor “A”)
Also threw a p0138 (O2 Sensor Circuit High Voltage (Bank 1, Sensor 2) previously but hasn't come back.
I noticed the CEL then the car developed a rough idle later in the day. It died while at a stopsign on the way home and wouldn't stay running until the 3rd restart. Then died as soon as I got into the driveway as I stopped in the driveway. It also developed a loud dragging sound about halfway through the drive as if the calipers were sticking. At first it was fairly quiet but became much louder as the drive went on and after the car stalled and was restarted. The noise only occurred while driving.

What steps should I take to diagnose this? What parts should I order? I checked the oil and while low, it was registering on the dipstick just around the min line. The car does burn oil and is often what appears to be significantly low (down 1+ quarts when checked after a few weeks or changed).

Thank you

[amovist]

Cheap cialis no prescription <a href="http://cialismrxcialis.com/#">Buy Cialis Online</a> how to buy cialis online