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| I have candy in my van ![]() Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Chicago, IL
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score First of all, the factory PS cooler is in the worst place to provide cooling. There is no air flow going past it. It seems that Mazda was originally going to use the space under the fog light to provide nice cooling air to the PS cooler, but they didn't. So, I cut into the fog light plastic shroud, and got some ducting to provide cooling to the factory cooler. I ran some tests under the same conditions with and without the ducting, and I found that the ducting helped cool things a bit. Then I installed a Perma-cool power steering cooler, ran some more tests, and found that it dramatically lowered the temps, compared to the factory set-up. Now what's left to do is to track the car again, and really feel the benefits of this cooler. Here's some pics of the install: The new cooler compared to the factory one The cooler mounted in the factory PS cooler spot Some cutting and ducting to provide cool air here's a view from up top The thermal data tester I used
__________________ Current Fail: 2008 Mazda5 DD/Mazdaspeed5 BT project |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Where is the other cooler from and what type of hose did you use to connect the old PS lines to the new cooler? And really sweet looking mod. I don't know if this would help in everyday driving but, nice none the less. |
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| Alittle Faster ![]() ![]() Join Date: May 2008 Location: Cape Coral, FL
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Way to go, great job! |
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| I have candy in my van ![]() Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Chicago, IL
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score A quick update on this, that makes it an easier install and preform better, than the first time I did things. Well here is a diagram, showing the flow and hose fitting sizes. Hopefully I can explain the problem, I first ran into. PS RACK 3/8" >>>>> 3/8" COOLER 3/8" >>>>> 1/2" PS HARD LINE. Now pretty much, you have to go from a 3/8" hose to a 1/2" hose in very little space. The first thing I did was jam a 1/2" hose OVER the 3/8" fitting, to were it was over the fitting's lip and I could secure the hose past the lip. The problem was I really don't have any 1/2" PS hose laying around so I used an air hose rated at 250psi(PS systems can see an excess of 1000psi). I basically knew that the air hose would fail after little time, so I started thinking up ways to fix it. After looking around the garage for ideas, I stumbled upon my old factory cooler, and one of the factory hoses looked kinda odd. First of all, it looked like the perfect length, and even better, it's 3/8" on one end and 1/2" on the other. I ordered up a new factory hose to replace my air hose, and I finally installed it yesterday. Glad I did, cause the air hose was close to failure, and was literally sweating PS fluid. Here is a before pic of the air hose, and a present pic of with the new factory PS hose in-place. Now knowing that this factory hose works perfectly, makes this cooler 10 times easier to install, and I know it should perform well at the track.
__________________ Current Fail: 2008 Mazda5 DD/Mazdaspeed5 BT project Last edited by MATT DAMOND; 09-11-2012 at 07:39 PM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Nice job Matt. If I decide to keep the car for racing, I am definitely doing this. You provided part numbers and everything, awesome! Where are taking laps at?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Bumping this thread for the few people that have pmd me about this. its the exact same setup I run.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Since the new cooler has slightly more piping, I assume you have to add a little more fluid than before?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Not sure how much the stock lines/system holds, but youll have to drain the stock system to install this. Currently I run mobil1 syn fluid and used juat over a half quart to refill the system. NOTE: when you do this mod, be sure to drain the system completely by pulling the line off, then turning the steering wheel lock to lock. This ensures almost all fluid is drained. Do the same thing whwn refilling.
__________________ JDMFresh.com 1990 Mazda Miata NASA Time Trials/Time Attack, Global Time Attack A miata may be gay, but its probably faster than your car around a track. That's pretty gay. |
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| I have candy in my van ![]() Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: Chicago, IL
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah, you do have to/end up draining the system fully when doing this. It's really simple, and easier when the bumper is off the car. I did actually change the cooler, from the cooler posted above. The one posted above sprung a leak one day. I sent it in for the life time warranty, didn't hear back, even after phoning, so I bought a new cooler. Here's the new cooler. It's a different design, from the Perma single tube, and it does seem to cool just as well.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score OK, great. I may do this mod before I hit the track. If I ever get that far. Which is unlikely, since that costs money.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So I need to amek one of these to replace the stock one the my MS3. I got a TXS FMIC that does not have a cooler relocation kit. Get a kit and mount it in the bumper. Do you know what happened to case the leak you had? The cooler construction seem flimsy or something? Any reason permal cool over other brands? Thinking about getting this one of these to mount above the FMIC similar to the one provided in the CPE kit (they use a 4 pass 5x7 in I think) Derale 13210 Derale Power Steering Coolers Hayden Automotive 1009 - Hayden Fluid Coolers - Overview - SummitRacing.com Should I got for a 4pass design? Just need some opinions before I pull the trigger on one of these 'kits' Oh yeah I see few with brackets already attached come with some pull tie things. Brackets easy to make? Suggestions? Thanks!
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| Fuck sushi rolls ![]() Join Date: May 2008 Location: Los Angeles
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i didnt read shit, i just wanted to say "OH HAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAIIIIIIIIIII" to matt
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Bringing this thread from the dead... My PS is leaking all over the place from the line that run across, right under the radiator (hard return line) and from the cooler as well; I'm thinking of getting your kit... however I found something inconsistencies here vs your instruction. The hard return line fitting has actually a 1/2in diameter near the cooler while the rack side has 3/8 ? In the instruction for your kit, you also ask to keep the "S" hose, which is the one between the rack and cooler, while the picture show that it is replaced anyway. Does it stay or we replace Also, you replace the hose between the hard return line (under the radiator) and the cooler, with what appears to be a 3/8 hose ? Would you happens to know what the hose fitting size is under the fluid tank ? I would trash it and simply replace it with rubber line 3/8 up to the tank, it's not a big deal since it's the low pressure side. @MATT DAMOND; If you mind clearing that up for me, I'm a bit confused. Here is the setup I plan: I'd like to remove the 32-410B hardline forever, and have a single hose to replace the 32-684 from the rack to the cooler, and then replace the 32-682 with a single hose from the cooler to the fluid tank.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just bought a cooler from Jegs, some hose and clamps. No issues here in the several years it's been installed.
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While I'm doing it, I will replace the fluid tank O-ring too.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just happen to have the PS reservoir off the car, so can confirm that the bottom hose connection is nominally 1/2 inch as is the hard piping. Most small coolers are 3/8 and I've used a 3/8 cooler and hose for years with no ill effects. I sourced 1/2 x 3/8 reducers in stainless from McMaster-Carr.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah I used the same size hose for both, but I do think I had to crank the clamp down. Don't remember what size everything was, but again: no issues.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm finally going to replace it. My high pressure side has started leaking, so I have to drain the whole system anyway (plus my driveway is getting real messy). I made some CAD parts to make my own cnc'ed bracket for the new cooler... then went a bit (a lot) overkill by making the full drawings, parts list and details to replace the whole system. Just a quick preview. I might just end up publishing them. Open source MS6 parts lol ? Capture.JPG Capture2.JPG
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The "S" shaped hose that connects the cooler to the PS pump is a 1/2 to 3/8 reducer so installing that on the hard line by drivers side wheel you can then hook up a PS cooler with 3/8" barbs. I picked up a cooler after installing a Spearco FMIC as the piping and cooler interfered. Got new pipes a while back and finally got the time to install the PS cooler while redoing the pipes last night. I cut some U bar I had and welded a bracket to mount out of the way of pipes. Its not pretty but it is strong. I need to add something to help support it so it doesn't end up moving around. I extended the OEM "S" hose that I hooked to the hard line with a 3/8" barb and some 3/8" transmission hose from napa. I need to get a longer bolt. Anyone know what size threads that bolt holding the OEM PS cooler is?
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__________________ MS6 - BNRs3 - Cobb AP - JBR Tru-3.0 - Spearco FMIC - MAC EBCS - Synapse BOV - DNP - CPE DP->MF - SU RRM - TTFMM - TT + CPE Diff Mounts - Mrlilguy HPFP - Projector HID fogs - TSX projector retrofit - LI jammers - Advan RZs w/ 245 PSSs - Koni - WL RSB |
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