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| Eatin' Your Tuna ![]() Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Nator HQ - San Diego, CA
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(Thread Starter) | Mazdaspeed Forums Spark Plug Index Database Gap size - 0.26 - 0.32 | Preferred gap is between 0.26 to 0.28 Type and Specs on DISI 2.3l Spark Plugs: 14mm; 5/8 hex; 25mm reach; projected tip; resistor plug Heat Range Conversion Chart Code: HKS 25 30 35 40 45 50 52.5 55 DENSO 16 20 22 24 27 31 32 34 NGK 5 6 7 8 9 10 10.5 11
NGK Copper Plugs LZTR4A-11 (5306) LZTR5A-13 (4306)
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So I read all the post about plugs and have a question. Is there any plug that is better for a stock engine? Will I notice any difference or should I keep what is in there now? If I do change them, what should the gap be on a stock motor? Thanks And I apologize if I missed the answer in a thread somewhere. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score gap size is listed above just read. stock motor=stock plugs |
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| Neutral : -1 score IN the Focus community which have similar engines most all the guys that have turbo cars run copper core plugs, which in the ford world equates to Motorcraft copper cores, Copper is the best conductor and I can't see any gains being made from any high dollar plug. Correct me if I am wrong but I doubt anyone here has seen gains with any overpriced plug. IF so I would be happy to see the dyno.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score the problem is no one has found any copper plugs. If so i would be using some for sure |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Would a step colder help with pre-ignition?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So I'm running a CAI, Catless TBE, and BOV what kinda plugs should I run? I live in Utah
__________________ 2007 MS3: HKS Hi-Power CBE with muffler cut-out, HKS CAI, TurboXS RP, Forge BPV, PTP Air Straightener, OCC, MBC(not hooked up der), Cobb AP, Denso Iridium ITV22 Spark Plugs, PG Turbo Inlet |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score gap sizing listed taken from which car? speed3 or speed6 (yes i know same engine.) SU lists their plugs for the speed6 (under Mazdaspeed 6) with gap sizes of .44, .32, and a few are unlisted... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm going to switch my plugs out again here in a few months (coming on 15k).. is anyone running 2 steps colder? Any better results? Deciding whether I should stick with 1 step or go to 2 |
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(Thread Starter) | What are your mods? If you have every bolt on known to man and 20 psi+, i would go 2 stage colder.
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__________________ 2007 MS3: HKS Hi-Power CBE with muffler cut-out, HKS CAI, TurboXS RP, Forge BPV, PTP Air Straightener, OCC, MBC(not hooked up der), Cobb AP, Denso Iridium ITV22 Spark Plugs, PG Turbo Inlet |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score , Copper is the best conductor and I can't see any gains being made from any high dollar plug. Correct me if I am wrong but I doubt anyone here has seen gains with any overpriced plug. IF so I would be happy to see the dyno.[/QUOTE] Actually, copper conducts well, but there are definitely better conducting metals out there. Copper is the cheapest out of them all. Gold and platinum, and iridium come to mind. Iridium plugs actually outperform copper and last a hell of a lot longer. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I found a set of six(6) ITV22 spark plugs on ebay for only $58 with free shipping. They're labeled for an '08 Chevy Equinox Sport, however, one ITV22 plug is the same as another. Just wanted to toss a heads up for anyone wanting them, worried about breaking one oin a set of 4 when they re-gap. Now, you get two extras... just gap them and install ![]() I haven't seen them cheaper anywhere else. If you have, post up. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score do you need to flash the ap or reset the ecu after installing a set of upgraded spark plugs?
__________________ 06 MS6, Cobb AP, -TUNED on corn mix, KMD v2 fp internals, NGK Iridium IX sp, Cp-e Xcel NANO, PG tip, SU bpv, AWR rear MM, Jbarone shifter plate and bushings, ATP catted dp, Corksport catback, Altered Custom fmic, H&R springs...R.I.P. 08.5 MS3, Cobb Ap, KMD v2 fp internals, Denso ITV22 sp, Cobb Sri, TurboXS bpv, SU rear mm, SU shifter bushings, ETS TMIC, SU boost tubes, Cp-e catted dp, Enkei EKM3. |
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__________________ 2006 Mazdaspeed 6 Cobb AP 2.0 with 1.01 stage 2 93 octane SF map Cobb Turbo Inlet, Cobb SF Intake ATP 3inch downpipe with metal spun High-Flo Cat |
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I am almost fully bolted except no DP. Anyway COBB and my AccessPort recommends .25 to .28 for GAP..NOt .31 & .44 What is correct???? Does anyone know what these ITV22's come gapped at?? THX | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score few more for the list- -not meant to indicate the best or favorite, it's just a list. based on US dollars - from various on-line parts stores, prices will vary widely ============================================= Colder Heat Ranges generally accepted gap, where adjustable, .028 (range .028 to .032) ==================== >Autolite Single Platinum Spark Plug Part No. AP5263 $2.50 >Autolite Double Platinum Spark Plug Part No. APP5263 $4.00 >Autolite Xp (Xtreme Performance) Iridium Enhanced Fine Wire Spark Plug **Cross-references the Denso ITV-22** Part No. XP5263 $6.50 >NGK IX Iridium Part No. LTR71X-11 $8.00 ea. >Denso Iridium Spark Plugs Part No. ITV22 - one step colder $11.99 (streetunit price) Part No. ITV24 - two steps colder $11.99 (streetunit price) Factory Heat Range generally accepted gap, where adjustable, .032 (range .028 to .032) ==================== >Autolite Double Platinum Spark Plug Part No. APP5364 $3.99 >Champion Double Platinum Spark Plug Part No. 7437 $4.29 >Motorcraft Original Equipment Finewire Single Platinum Spark Plug Part No. SP432 $4.69 >Motorcraft Original Equipment Finewire Double Platinum Spark Plug Part No. SP478 $4.69 >Bosch Platinum+2 Spark Plug Part No. 4315 $4.99 >Bosch Platinum Ir Fusion Part No. 4515 $5.71 >Bosch Platinum+4 Spark Plug Part No. 4488 $5.99 >Pulstar Platinum Pulse Plug Part No. EF1P $9.99 >ACDelco Professional Platinum Spark Plug Part No. 41-814 $6.49 >Champion Iridium Part No. 9901 $5.74 >NGK Premium Iridium Part No. ILTR6A8G $9.94 >Autolite Xp (Xtreme Performance) Iridium Enhanced Fine Wire Spark Plug Part No. XP5364 $6.59 >Pulstar Iridium Pulse Plug Part No. EF1I $12.99 >E3 Premium Special Electrode Automotive Spark Plug **reports of exceedingly poor performance in the MS6** Part No. E3.66 $5.99
__________________ Was a Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop Now in a BMW 135i - double the turbos, double the fun! E82.N54 2009 / BSM / A/T / Drop-in / PR CP / Berk Street / MHD / xHP 340hp / 371tq |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I know most of us have, or plan on going with the Denso ITV-22's. The NGK's are problematic to gap correctly as they come preset at .44, a member fought with trying to gap them before giving up. I got my densos from http://www.sparkplugauto.com/denso/i...park-plug.html for $7.44 a piece.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Here's a great article on why and when you should go "colder": NGK.com
__________________ Prosport Mech Boost Gauge|Jbarone SSP/Bushings|CS SRI/TIP/RSB/RP|H&R Springs|Koni Yellows|Cobb FMIC/AP|Denso ITV22|Torque Solutions RMM|SPC Camber Links|Enkie RPF1 17x9 +45 w/Continental DWS Extreme Contact 235/45-17|SURE IM/TB TIG|CP-e HPFP|Grimspeed ECBS|DO Stage 2 w/100% Meth|MD OCC |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score with my mods currently and the future mods i plan to get in the near future.. what plugs should I get? ITV22 or ITV24?? or even itv27?
__________________ 2008 Mazda Mazdaspeed3 GT (True Red) SOLD ~Mods: ATP GTX3071r IWG, JBR Tru 3.5" WP, UR V2 3" catless DP & TP, Tr8+JBR FMIC, Turbosmart BPV, CP-e HPFP, NGK 6510, Bosch 3bar MAP, Cobb 3-port EBCS, PERM PCV Plate, Damond OCC (1sealed, 1 VTA), Kozmic 1°/Damond 2° EGR Delete, Corksport seals, CP-e RMM 75A, JBR side MM 80A, Cobb AP V2, spin-on oil conversion, KSport Coilovers, SPC Performance Camber Arms, JBR IM/TB TIG, SURE Anchors ~~332whp @5300rpm / 354wtq @4800rpm @ 21psi on 91oct FREEKTUNED ~~380whp @6500rpm / 367wtq @4800rpm @ 20psi on e33 FREEKTUNED 2007 Mazda CX-7 (Burgundy Wine) SOLD |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score ^^^ itv49s all the way.
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__________________ 2008 Mazda Mazdaspeed3 GT (True Red) SOLD ~Mods: ATP GTX3071r IWG, JBR Tru 3.5" WP, UR V2 3" catless DP & TP, Tr8+JBR FMIC, Turbosmart BPV, CP-e HPFP, NGK 6510, Bosch 3bar MAP, Cobb 3-port EBCS, PERM PCV Plate, Damond OCC (1sealed, 1 VTA), Kozmic 1°/Damond 2° EGR Delete, Corksport seals, CP-e RMM 75A, JBR side MM 80A, Cobb AP V2, spin-on oil conversion, KSport Coilovers, SPC Performance Camber Arms, JBR IM/TB TIG, SURE Anchors ~~332whp @5300rpm / 354wtq @4800rpm @ 21psi on 91oct FREEKTUNED ~~380whp @6500rpm / 367wtq @4800rpm @ 20psi on e33 FREEKTUNED 2007 Mazda CX-7 (Burgundy Wine) SOLD |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Read the article posted above and make your own decision. Its not something thats going to make a drastic difference so using one over the others isnt going to be better or worse for you. You have to make your decision on your own, its a spark plug not a turbo. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I am confused. I have had both of these types of plugs recommended for my 2006 Mazdaspeed 6. I am having difficulty justifying the 250% higher price for the racing plug. Does anyone know why the Denso site http://www.densoiridium.com/find_part.php recommends IRL01-27 only for my car, when it recommends the other plug (ITV20) for the same engine in a different year?
__________________ 2006 Velocity Red MS6, ASA AR1 Silver w/machined lip 225/45/18, EBC Red Stuff Front Brake Pads, StopTech Slotted Front Rotors |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i was told that if you go 1 or 2 step colder heat range then you gotta tune for it. from what i am reading in hear as long as you just gap them to the stock recommended gap then you should be good. is my assumption right or is what i heard correct? i need to change my plugs mods are below. trying to decide if i wanna get the NGK's Denso's or just install the new Autolite iridiums i have in the glove box. what is y'alls opinion?
__________________ RichTuned Ultimate Racing DP V2 flange\35W 6000k DDM HID's\HKS SSQV3 VTA\GTX2867R\Tanabe STB\HTP 3.5" intake\PTP HPFP\UR FMIC\Ultimate Racing turbo-back exhaust\JBR RSB\JBR 80Duro Trilogy mounts\Cobb AP v3\Stage 2\22.5PSI \Sonic Tuning Coilovers\TWM full replacement shifter and SSP\PnP Intake Manifold/CP-e EWG Exhaust Manifold/Tial 44mm EWG 11/10/2012 NATOR DC DYNO day 304Whp/356 FT lbs Tqe Uncorrected 4/13/2013 Mega NATOR Meat Dyno Day 300WHP/ 344ft lbs/wtqe Corrected |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score On the COBB 1.08 BETA testing, Christian and the team are asking for us to "install new Denso ITV22 spark plugs gapped at .025". |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score People on this page have to be VERY clear when they mention gap sizes. 0.28" DOES NOT EQUAL 0.028". Also to note, if you're measuring gap sizes, use feeler gauges and not those circle gapping gauges, they might damage Iridium plugs. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Finally... people use mm and inches interchangeably. What is the real value? |
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__________________ 2010 MS3 Mica Black Tech Cobb AP | JBR RMM 70 Duro | JBR SSP | CS SRI+TIP | CS Racepipe | NGK Plugs | KMD Internals CS Interior LEDs | Custom Hatch LEDs | Rear Wiper Delete | Custom "Evil M" | Red Taillights | Resonator Delete | SWAS Switch |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Nice info
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Haltech, I've seen in a few threads, you recommend people to NOT use Denso plugs. May I ask why since a lot of people use them? I need new plugs (1 step colder)..... Also anyone use XP5263's? How do you like them? I found some, but they aren't listed for any Mazda's or even Ford's. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So I hate to be that guy but here we go...why would you go colder and not hotter? I read this whole thread and nobody said hotter. And what mods justifies going up a step or down a step? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score A minute in Google, a lifetime on the brain. More performance = more heat When a plug heats up, after a certain point it can trigger a combustion event without spark. Colder plug transfers that extra heat more efficiently, preventing that stray combustion event and all the other problems & symptoms that come along with an overheated plug, such as shorter plug life. Hotter plugs would only exacerbate the problems. As a general rule, for every 50-100 HP added, go one step colder, but temper that with your driving style. You may not benefit from 2 step colder plugs if you spend your time in rush hour traffic as they may not get hot enough to burn off the deposits. If you have the power for it, but not the environment, then it's worth it to have two sets- one for daily driving and a colder set for the track.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Nicely put. Also note that you want to run the hottest plugs you can without experiencing pre detonation from the plug.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm only getting confused by this. Cobb says gap needs to be 0.028 inches gap which translates to ~0.7 mm gap.. This says 0.28 gap, since I'm guessing that's in inches, 0.28 is much higher than 0.028. Can somebody confirm the actual gap for step colder plugs? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score 0.028 - 0.026, tighter as HP increases. This is covered in the thread, have to read more than just the first post.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah that's a big pet peeve of mine when people say 0.28" That 0 makes a HUGE difference.
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I know! My gapping tool is in mm so I gapped it to 0.7mm car rubs fine on stage 2 so I'm guessing it was all good.. If it blows up I'll keep y'all posted
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