ATP 1 Bar iwg turbos

[I Love Brownies]

So it seems like this is becoming more of a problem with these iwgs. I figured I would make a thread so everyone will be aware of it and we can stop having these problems.

This thread ONLY Applies to the guys that order their turbo with the 1 bar spring for their iwg. What happens with these things is that they all have to be made custom made by ATP and whoever over there that is making them is putting them on so they are binding on to the coolant to egr fitting.

this is causing the iwg flapper to get stuck open (making people achieve no boost). The other thing that is happening is that they are getting bound up and not allowing the iwg to open at all and causing overboost. i have dealt with 3 units directly that have caused this 2(no boost) and 1(overboost).

When it first happened to a local i had sometime off of work and @MicaBlueMS3 and I ripped his big turbo out after 2 days from installing to see why it wasnt making any boost. The nut was bound on that coolant to egr fitting.

So what i suggest anyone that is getting a bt with the 1 bar spring do is test your shit on an air compressor before you install it to make sure your wg opens and closes freely.

This is a really easy fix and does not require any fabrication to fix this problem ie no new fittings or cutting or welding. What you simply have to do is take the 2 bolts off of the diaphragm that hold it to the bracket and the e-clip that holds the arm to the stud that allows the flapper to open and close when needed.

after those things are off take the iwg and rotate it so the arm bends away from the coolant fitting. then reinstall 2 nuts and e-clip. This will give you about a 1/4'' of clearance from the coolant fitting. here are some pictures of the two where you can see where they are getting bound up and not allowing it to close. also a picture of the one stuck closed. In the video im going to post i say we need to cut the bar to get it to work but ignore that we just need flip it around and pre load it again. dont forget to test it on an air compressor to make sure everything works before install!!

@JacksonMS30, @knarfies, @frodaddyweez

June 30, 2011 12:00 PM - YouTube

June 30, 2011 12:00 PM - YouTube

2011-06-30_18-52-02_527.3gp - YouTube

2011-06-30_18-52-02_527.3gp - YouTube

[JacksonMS30]

Hey, this sounds very familiar...


(side bar) Don't forget to adjust the preload on the actuator arm after you have flipped it over. When you flip it over it won't allow the actuator to close all the way unless you adjust it to where its as short as possible (or at least thats what happened with mine).

[I Love Brownies]

so i talked to frodaddyweez on the phone and he just had a problem with his lines being hooked up wrong. regardless anyone going to install bt with 1 bar spring should ALWAYS test it via air compressor to see if its functioning properly

[Realgib3]

Is this the wg spring that typically comes with the ATP turbos? Or something else? I just bought one and didn't realize there were options lol

[I Love Brownies]

7psi is the normal spring. the 14psi(1bar) is the option. you can tell on the 1 bar spring it has welds and looks custom made

[Realgib3]

Awww wtf I'm def gonna need the 1bar. 7psi is the gay for sure

[Chimmike]

Yeah but Jackson's problem is he doesn't have enough adjustment left after flipping it.

I'm thinking you're making too big a deal out of it. I bet you could get a banjo bolt and barbed fitting, use aeroquip silicone line, and that would solve the problem rather than using what looks to be 3 fittings which allow the arm to be bound up. OR, build a spacer for the WGA bracket to space it out from the turbo another 1/2".

[I Love Brownies]

Originally Posted by chimmike Yeah but Jackson's problem is he doesn't have enough adjustment left after flipping it. I'm thinking you're making too big a deal out of it. I bet you could get a banjo bolt and barbed fitting, use aeroquip silicone line, and that would solve the problem rather than using what looks to be 3 fittings which allow the arm to be bound up. OR, build a spacer for the WGA bracket to space it out from the turbo another 1/2".

dude if you dont have experience with this shit why are you even talking? the reason why jackson is still having issues is cause he didnt prelaod it enough. when I did it we got it to preload to 20psi before opening without at problem. so you still wanna tell me he doesnt have the same amount of room with the same exact setup that is preloaded to 20 psi. gtfo

Originally Posted by Realgib3 Awww wtf I'm def gonna need the 1bar. 7psi is the gay for sure

hahaha yes.

[Chimmike]

Originally Posted by I Love Brownies dude if you dont have experience with this shit why are you even talking? the reason why jackson is still having issues is cause he didnt prelaod it enough. when I did it we got it to preload to 20psi before opening without at problem. so you still wanna tell me he doesnt have the same amount of room with the same exact setup that is preloaded to 20 psi. gtfo hahaha yes.

he posted in his fuckin thread this morning noob, that after flipping, he doesn't have enough adjustment left to preload it, that he's gonna use teh fittings ATP sent to him and flip the WGA back the way it was from ATP to see if that will work better and allow him to preload it more.

dick.

Originally Posted by JacksonMS30 I can't preload anymore in its current configuration. The rod has already been shortened as much as possible. I will have to flip it over to shorten it more.

[I Love Brownies]

Originally Posted by chimmike he posted in his fuckin thread this morning noob, that after flipping, he doesn't have enough adjustment left to preload it, that he's gonna use teh fittings ATP sent to him and flip the WGA back the way it was to see if that will work better and allow him to preload it more. dick.

actually i did read his thread you fucktard. your mom should have swallowed you when she had the chance. listen fuck face it can be done without switching fittings and and all that bullshit it is a FACT. Have you dealt with this first hand? no


youre an idiot did you not just read that quote you posted? "in its current state" it can not be shortened, I need to take it out flip it and shorten it more. so just because you change the direction of the arm that means you change the amount of boost it can hold before opening. you are a dumb mo fo arnt you

[Chimmike]

Originally Posted by I Love Brownies actually i did read his thread you fucktard. your mom should have swallowed you when she had the chance. listen fuck face it can be done without switching fittings and and all that bullshit it is a FACT. Have you dealt with this first hand? no

okay killer, that's why he's having so much trouble with it. Mmmkay. Cuz I gotta tell you, I didn't think Jackson is so incompetent to have so many problems with it where you obviously have none.

[I Love Brownies]

do you not get it man? i know he is having problems with it. it took me several tries to get the spring loaded correctly with having the turbo out of the car. its going to be trial and error with him doing it in the car.

[Bucker]

Quit it with the cock slinging contest and have a civil conversation.

[I Love Brownies]

Originally Posted by Bucker Quit it with the cock slinging contest and have a civil conversation.

the thread meaning is to make sure and test your iwg before installation. if its getting stuck switch it around re-test till you get it right and install. this guy wants to change fittings and all kinds of stuff that is not needed.

[Chimmike]

Brownies, I heard somewhere that the gtx3071r has a different compressor housing. If this is true, could it be more of the cause of the problem Jackson was having vs. the result you're getting doing the same thing on regular 3071's?

[I Love Brownies]

the gtx3071 shares the same exact compressor housing as the 3076 a .60

these turbos are expensive as is you shouldnt have to throw more money at them to make them work just a little bit of thinking.

the only reason is cause those arms are custom built. im just trying to clarify to not spend 50 dollars more on fittings and other stuff or fabricating any kind of spacers on the bracket to make it work. its just not needed, it takes 5 minutes to test the iwg and 5 minutes to swap and preload it again. it saves the hassle of worrying about new fittings custom made brackets or spacers

[JacksonMS30]

EDIT: ILB beat me too the compressor housing bit...

Just to clarify,
The problem I'm having right now is that when the rod is flipped over it changes the angle slightly giving you more room with the coolant line but also moving the end of the rod past where the actuator arm is fully closed. So you twist it back some to shorten it (preload it) but in my case, I have twisted it back as far as it goes and it is just barely preloaded. I could get it maybe one more turn if I took the little bolt that locks it in place off. The reason I was gonna flip it back over is because ATP sent me a little 45* fitting that takes the place of the 90* fitting on the coolant in line. This will move the coolant line in such a way that it no longer interferes with the rod. If I put that fitting on, I can flip the waste gate back to where it was and then I would have plenty more room to preload.

However, I'm not gonna do this yet as I want to turn up the boost and see what happens with some tuning. If after the boost is adjusted, and I'm still not spooling right, I'll do what I said above to try and help spool.

Originally Posted by I Love Brownies the gtx3071 shares the same exact compressor housing as the 3076 a .60 these turbos are expensive as is you shouldnt have to throw more money at them to make them work just a little bit of thinking. the only reason is cause those arms are custom built. im just trying to clarify to not spend 50 dollars more on fittings and other stuff or fabricating any kind of spacers on the bracket to make it work. its just not needed, it takes 5 minutes to test the iwg and 5 minutes to swap and preload it again. it saves the hassle of worrying about new fittings custom made brackets or spacers

I emailed George @ ATP and he responded within 2 min of my sending him an email. He sent me the 45* fitting for free. I think they will be making sure that this isn't a problem anymore either by starting with this fitting or keeping a closer eye on the guy who is custom making those actuator rods.

[I Love Brownies]

Jackson i understand what your saying about it moving past the stud on the flapper and causing you not to be able to preload it to be done. if you did it correctly it will work. it actually preloads that pretty heavily. i will sit and wait till you crank up boost and go from there.

Jackson fuck i forgot one key part, i was looking at that picture and i just realized this.

so when you take off the whole iwg like you did the other night spin the rod that goes towards the flapper and that will give you more threads to spin that nut on. fuck me duh

[TWOptSL0W]

so if the turbo is already on the car, what am i looking for here? i think i have the 45* fitting on already from atp so it should clear, but can i test while on the car?

[I Love Brownies]

Originally Posted by TWOptSL0W so if the turbo is already on the car, what am i looking for here? i think i have the 45* fitting on already from atp so it should clear, but can i test while on the car?

are you running the 1 bar spring? the arm is located directly uner the turbo and the pics posted above.

are you making boost just fine? if you are you should be all good

[TWOptSL0W]

yea 1 bar but i need to adjust my preload...ill have to figure out a way to do it on the car

[I Love Brownies]

even better man run a mbc. my ewg is 14psi and i run 24 all day with my mbc

[TWOptSL0W]

i wanna run the stock boost solenoid, so id like to run mostly off spring pressure and then just fine tune with the stocker. this may sound stupid, but when i spin the nut, which way am i turning it? is it clockwise if i am looking at the wg and the arm and nut is toward me and the large piece is further away? or counter-clockwise

[JacksonMS30]

Originally Posted by TWOptSL0W i wanna run the stock boost solenoid, so id like to run mostly off spring pressure and then just fine tune with the stocker. this may sound stupid, but when i spin the nut, which way am i turning it? is it clockwise if i am looking at the wg and the arm and nut is toward me and the large piece is further away? or counter-clockwise

Lol!! I had this problem as well... Your gonna need to take the waste gate completely off to adjust preload if it's on the car already (or you can take the turbo off). It's not hard, just remove the e-clip and rod from the actuator, then undo the two bolts holding the waste gate to the bracket. Then snake the rod our through the whole. It will work eventually. I do suggest you measure the distance from the actuator closed to the waste gate bracket so you only have to pull it off once.

Hope that helps a little.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by I Love Brownies 7psi is the normal spring. the 14psi(1bar) is the option. you can tell on the 1 bar spring it has welds and looks custom made

interesting...my ATP 2871 has an adjustable 10-14PSI WGA and the arm is almost a straight shot to the WG. They must have changed the design. My turbo is about 1.5 years old.

[Realgib3]

Originally Posted by Dano2010 interesting...my ATP 2871 has an adjustable 10-14PSI WGA and the arm is almost a straight shot to the WG. They must have changed the design. My turbo is about 1.5 years old.

Different compressor housing on this turbo from ur Dano

[I Love Brownies]

Originally Posted by Dano2010 interesting...my ATP 2871 has an adjustable 10-14PSI WGA and the arm is almost a straight shot to the WG. They must have changed the design. My turbo is about 1.5 years old.

yeah @Realgib3 and you are correct different turbo different design and year probably.

Originally Posted by Realgib3 Different compressor housing on this turbo from ur Dano

The thing is when we first noticed my buddies was getting stuck we took it apart and atarted messing with it. when we put it back on we realized we had no idea what psi it was set to open to. so we took it and tested it. All i wanted is to let people know is to test their iwg and 1) it doesnt bind or get stuck and 2) make sure they set it at whatever psi they want before installing it.

[Dano]

maybe it is just on the 3076 comp housings or have you seen it on the smaller turbos?

IIRC from the pics that Rodrigo posted up his was like mine. 3071 turbo.

[TWOptSL0W]

Originally Posted by JacksonMS30 Lol!! I had this problem as well... Your gonna need to take the waste gate completely off to adjust preload if it's on the car already (or you can take the turbo off). It's not hard, just remove the e-clip and rod from the actuator, then undo the two bolts holding the waste gate to the bracket. Then snake the rod our through the whole. It will work eventually. I do suggest you measure the distance from the actuator closed to the waste gate bracket so you only have to pull it off once. Hope that helps a little.

wait so its not just turning that bolt? who the fuck designed this thing

[m4tic]

Im so glad i have an EWG mani laying around

[I Love Brownies]

Originally Posted by bmorrisj Im so glad i have an EWG mani laying around

ewg is the way to go imho

Originally Posted by TWOptSL0W wait so its not just turning that bolt? who the fuck designed this thing

it should be for you homie since urs isnt getting stuck

[TWOptSL0W]

Ok thanks buddy maybe I'll attempt it this weekend. Which way do I turn it?

[I Love Brownies]

Originally Posted by TWOptSL0W Ok thanks buddy maybe I'll attempt it this weekend. Which way do I turn it?

honestly man instead of fucking with it just run an mbc. my grimmspeed ran me 80 bucks and you can have all the boost you want

[PapaSmurf]

for any ladies looking at this thread, that was me fingering the wastegate. You have now witnessed my skills and your vagina is starting to get wet. PM me for further details on how to recieve a good time.

[frodaddyweez]

Yeah it was a bitch to try and stretch the wastegate arm back onto the flapper. Fortunately, before I had to hulk out on it, DJ sent me an email saying how i messed up where i was running my hoses to control boost. Even with that big ass turbo in there, its not too hard to undo the diaphragm and rotate it. Just putting the arm back on the flapper was taking awhile.

[Dano]

Air compressor is ur friend. Pressurize the boost source to extend the WGA.


Tappin

[IshiKage]

[JacksonMS30]

Just got an email from George@ATP and he says they are working on a permanent fix for the 1 bar IWG setup on the .60 housing. George has been very helpfull this whole time. The experience I've had with his customer service will be hard to beat.

[I Love Brownies]

Originally Posted by JacksonMS30 Just got an email from George@ATP and he says they are working on a permanent fix for the 1 bar IWG setup on the .60 housing. George has been very helpfull this whole time. The experience I've had with his customer service will be hard to beat.

dude thank you so much for keeping on that. did you tell him to just swap the bar around when they make them?

[knarfies]

Originally Posted by I Love Brownies So it seems like this is becoming more of a problem with these iwgs. I figured I would make a thread so everyone will be aware of it and we can stop having these problems. This thread ONLY Applies to the guys that order their turbo with the 1 bar spring for their iwg. What happens with these things is that they all have to be made custom made by ATP and whoever over there that is making them is putting them on so they are binding on to the coolant to egr fitting. this is causing the iwg flapper to get stuck open (making people achieve no boost). The other thing that is happening is that they are getting bound up and not allowing the iwg to open at all and causing overboost. i have dealt with 3 units directly that have caused this 2(no boost) and 1(overboost). When it first happened to a local i had sometime off of work and @MicaBlueMS3 and I ripped his big turbo out after 2 days from installing to see why it wasnt making any boost. The nut was bound on that coolant to egr fitting. So what i suggest anyone that is getting a bt with the 1 bar spring do is test your shit on an air compressor before you install it to make sure your wg opens and closes freely. This is a really easy fix and does not require any fabrication to fix this problem ie no new fittings or cutting or welding. What you simply have to do is take the 2 bolts off of the diaphragm that hold it to the bracket and the e-clip that holds the arm to the stud that allows the flapper to open and close when needed. after those things are off take the iwg and rotate it so the arm bends away from the coolant fitting. then reinstall 2 nuts and e-clip. This will give you about a 1/4'' of clearance from the coolant fitting. here are some pictures of the two where you can see where they are getting bound up and not allowing it to close. also a picture of the one stuck closed. In the video im going to post i say we need to cut the bar to get it to work but ignore that we just need flip it around and pre load it again. dont forget to test it on an air compressor to make sure everything works before install!! @JacksonMS30, @knarfies, @frodaddyweez June 30, 2011 12:00 PM - YouTube 2011-06-30_18-52-02_527.3gp - YouTube

LOL at my fail new atp turbo. Good thing Eric fixed it!