Boost leak test

[gsrtype1]

I gonna do a boost leak test, is it ok to pressurize befor the turbo like on the mazdaspeed intake? Please give Ideas on the best way to do it. I try and do a write up with pics so other members will have a reference.

[phillyb]

well if you're going to make one of those little things that allows you to check for leaks in the pipes and valve and shit, then i think you'd be alright.
BUT, why not just tighten all couplers. you'd spend more time undoing pipes and checking for leaks using one of those devices than you would by tightening clamps.
those things are great if you have a leak in a pipe, with you, i just bet you have a loose pipe somewhere...but to answer your ?, i don't know

[SSinstaller]

If you have the crank case breather connected on your intake you can not pressurize the intake--as you'll pressurize the crankcase as well...

It's best to just remove the intake and inlet and just pressurize from the turbo compressor..

[gsrtype1]

Originally Posted by phaillyb well if you're going to make one of those little things that allows you to check for leaks in the pipes and valve and shit, then i think you'd be alright. BUT, why not just tighten all couplers. you'd spend more time undoing pipes and checking for leaks using one of those devices than you would by tightening clamps. those things are great if you have a leak in a pipe, with you, i just bet you have a loose pipe somewhere...but to answer your ?, i don't know

Yeah your probably right I just thought it would be easy plus i'm also wondering if its posably coming form my tmic. I doubt it though cuase I got to thinking since I measure pre-intercooler boost if the tmic was leaking then I would see more pressure before the tmic not the same as the dashhawk reads after the tmic? if my logic is correct then have just about zero pressure loss with that ets.

[gsrtype1]

Originally Posted by SSinstaller If you have the crank case breather connected on your intake you can not pressurize the intake--as you'll pressurize the crankcase as well... It's best to just remove the intake and inlet and just pressurize from the turbo compressor..

U mean straight into the turbo? I was thinking straight into the coupler that connect in the turbo inlet tube wouldn't that be the same?

[gsrtype1]

It is useful to do even if you don't think you have a leak cause alot of cars can be leaking out power and you don't even know it. Rick with evo did a boost leak test a while back with no symptoms of a leak and discovered a signifcant leak. he said after he plugged it up the car felt smoother and more powerful...

[superskaterxes]

fuck i always test from my CAI. i COMPLETELY forgot about the crankcase hose. lol time to make a new leak tester haha

[gsrtype1]

Originally Posted by superskaterxes fuck i always test from my CAI. i COMPLETELY forgot about the crankcase hose. lol time to make a new leak tester haha

All you have to do is put the teste fitting on the 3 inch coupler thats rite befroe the turboinlet rite? thats after where the crank case hose goes into the inlet.

[SSinstaller]

Originally Posted by gsrtype1 All you have to do is put the teste fitting on the 3 inch coupler thats rite befroe the turboinlet rite? thats after where the crank case hose goes into the inlet.

That should work, but depending on how your BOV works you might lose some pressure through it..

I always just went right to the compressor housing..

[gsrtype1]

Originally Posted by SSinstaller That should work, but depending on how your BOV works you might lose some pressure through it.. I always just went right to the compressor housing..

I dont follow? Whats the difference in relation to the bov if you go straight to the compressor housing vs the inlet tube?

[gsrtype1]

David said it is prob best to go directly into the turbo as the inlet is made for vacum not boost.

[SSinstaller]

Originally Posted by gsrtype1 I dont follow? Whats the difference in relation to the bov if you go straight to the compressor housing vs the inlet tube?

Most BOV's recirculate to the inlet tube. If you're pressurizing the inlet tube then your also pressurizing the BOV recirc tube, and the back end of the BOV.. Depending on how the BOV operates, it may leak a little pressure because they aren't designed to see any positive pressure on the outlet side..

[gsrtype1]

Originally Posted by SSinstaller Most BOV's recirculate to the inlet tube. If you're pressurizing the inlet tube then your also pressurizing the BOV recirc tube, and the back end of the BOV.. Depending on how the BOV operates, it may leak a little pressure because they aren't designed to see any positive pressure on the outlet side..

Ahh yeah duh! lol

[superskaterxes]

Originally Posted by SSinstaller Most BOV's recirculate to the inlet tube. If you're pressurizing the inlet tube then your also pressurizing the BOV recirc tube, and the back end of the BOV.. Depending on how the BOV operates, it may leak a little pressure because they aren't designed to see any positive pressure on the outlet side..

yah but tech both sides of the BOV valve will see equal pressure (one from the inlet recirc and the other from the flange side) so tech the valve shouldent move. and because the IM is not seeing a pressure change the bov should not actuate from the vacuum nipple on top.

[gsrtype1]

Originally Posted by superskaterxes yah but tech both sides of the BOV valve will see equal pressure (one from the inlet recirc and the other from the flange side) so tech the valve shouldent move. and because the IM is not seeing a pressure change the bov should not actuate from the vacuum nipple on top.

so youve done this before?

[gsrtype1]

I gonna head to NAPA when I get off work and to T bolt clamps first. Thats sound easier and a good mod anyway...

[gsrtype1]

These t-bolt clamps are a must they are 10x better than the pansy reg clamps! Great idea philly I gonna do the cold pipe next I have a feelin thats where i'm leeking plus I have another one for rite off the turbo but havent put on yet. I would recommend everyone get t bolt clamps when you compare in person thers a huge difference. $5 at Napa

[danesti]

how much ?how many on those tbolt clamps? i guess im asking how many for 5 bucks? been meaning to do that ever since i opened the FMIC kit and it had worm clamps.

[gsrtype1]

Originally Posted by danems6 how much ?how many on those tbolt clamps? i guess im asking how many for 5 bucks? been meaning to do that ever since i opened the FMIC kit and it had worm clamps.

there $5 a piece but when you compare the 1inch steal grip in person compared to stock its a no brainer bro...

[danesti]

ya, 5 bucks a piece seems steep.
i mean, i have 8 (i think) on my boosted air tract. should i really buy 40 bucks worth of clamps?

[spiker98]

Haha, this is great I already had plans to go to home depot in the morning to make a boost leak tester. I have terrible leaks after putting in that FMIC. I think I also will be hitting up NAPA for those t-bolt clamps. I just calculated it.. I need 14...yikes.
I need a few extra for that tester and the fact that the CP-e FMIC needs some ghetto rigging to mate it to the 3071.

[gsrtype1]

Originally Posted by danems6 ya, 5 bucks a piece seems steep. i mean, i have 8 (i think) on my boosted air tract. should i really buy 40 bucks worth of clamps?

I would say for sure I when u compare in person I will think you agree

[MS6_Auburn_Fan]

They're cheaper on ebay. I picked up like 16 for something like $30. They may not be the high end stuff but they do the job just fine.

[bnoon]

Originally Posted by MS6_Auburn_Fan They're cheaper on ebay. I picked up like 16 for something like $30. They may not be the high end stuff but they do the job just fine.

Agreed. As long as they're stainless... go for it. You can also find T-bolts cheaper from many vendors, as well as ebay. NAPA= $$$$ KA-CHING!!!!

[Sphincter]

I came across this website today, way cheaper than napa.
Inexpensive T-Bolt Clamps

[gsrtype1]

Originally Posted by Sphincter I came across this website today, way cheaper than napa. Inexpensive T-Bolt Clamps

Thats a cool website!

[danesti]

spiker...
order a one piece silicone tube from siliconeintakes.com
they be good people. no need to mickey mouse anything with your set up.
and btw. i actually have the stock boost tube (for TMIC) coming off the gt28 to the hot pipe. super lame. better solution coming soon (with better clamps)

[phillyb]

nice, good links in here.

[djuosnteisn]

Why is pressurizing the crank case bad when the car is off? Sounds stupid but i've always tested from the intake. And i normally only use 15-18 psi. I figure your testing alot more couplers that way, which is alot less chance of a leak pre-turbo.

[SSinstaller]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn Why is pressurizing the crank case bad when the car is off? Sounds stupid but i've always tested from the intake. And i normally only use 15-18 psi. I figure your testing alot more couplers that way, which is alot less chance of a leak pre-turbo.

You run the risk of blowing out gaskets/seals.

You should test with at least 5 psi higher than you run daily.

I generally test with the last tick on my guage, I think it's ~29psi. If the pipes stay together it's safe to say they don't leak..

[gsrtype1]

Originally Posted by SSinstaller You run the risk of blowing out gaskets/seals. You should test with at least 5 psi higher than you run daily. I generally test with the last tick on my guage, I think it's ~29psi. If the pipes stay together it's safe to say they don't leak..

So are you sayen its good to take the oil cap off? Thats what alot of people on u tube do

[gsrtype1]

So its a good idea to take off the oil fill cap to not over pressurize engine gaskets?

[SSinstaller]

Just test from the compressor housing, and there is no need to do anything else.

[gsrtype1]

Originally Posted by SSinstaller Just test from the compressor housing, and there is no need to do anything else.

Cool, just out of curiosity does it make the turbine spool?

[SSinstaller]

Originally Posted by gsrtype1 Cool, just out of curiosity does it make the turbine spool?

You'll hear it spin up, but only for a second..

[reddeerspeed3]

what about disconnecting the pcv line from the motor and plugging it? then it would be safe to test the whole intake from MAF to TB?

[djuosnteisn]

Yeah, if you block off the VC line, you'd be fine.


Shit, i've been doin it with it connected, and i'm still fine. But it's def a good precaution to take.