Injector seals

[turd burglar]

I couldn't get my injector bores squeaky clean, but there was very minimal carbon left behind, is that gonna be an issue?

[Speedie6]

Oh, fuck. I hope I didn't do something to totally fuck my car. I don't know what happened. Car was running, at least idling fine. Though yesterday I had only basically driven it around the block. And same for today. I hadn't got it up to boost as yet. So, for the first time, I got on it, and something went bad. It was like it lost fuel and cratered and died. I'm seeing a too lean at idle code. I hope I didn't fry anything. But, it just limps now, It'll idle, but, it chokes and wheezhes just to try to get it up to speed enough to get in gear. It acted like it was driving fine until that one time I got on it. Fuck my life.

[SilverDemon]

Any noises when the event happened? Like a pop or whooosh? A silicone connector that comes apart will give you the same symptoms.

[turd burglar]

Also check the wire harness to your injectors, when we did mtnrunners car, his ran and drove fine for a day and a half, and suddenly somehow one of the injectors came undone from the harness lol just clipped it back in and it was good to go

[turd burglar]

And poppin a boost tube usually causes rich condition doesnt it? Like 9:1 if my multiple experiences recall lol

[Speedie6]

Holy shit, Silver was right. I must not have tightened one of the FMIC hose clamps, it popped. I could swear I tightened all of them. Guess not. The CPE FMIC only came with basic clamps. I ordered T-Bolt clamps to replace them, but never got around to actually putting on the new clamps. So, when I did the injector job, I did the new clamps and must not tightened one. I'm so stupid.

I'm still a bit concerned about the code. I think that code came on before I got on it. I noticed my CEL was on, but, it can come on for all kinds of stupid reasons so I ignored it. I shoulda checked the code before getting on it.

Still probably, putting the damn hose back on will fix most of it.

Thanks for responding. I'm a fuckhead.

[SilverDemon]

I am glad it was something simple!!

Now the lean code, depending on when it came on, could just be a vacuum leak, either in the hoses on the intake mani, or a vac leak around manifold itself. A loose, or a compromised O2, or a dirty MAF sensor can cause a lean code.

[dougefresh_]

Originally Posted by Speedie6 Holy shit, Silver was right. I must not have tightened one of the FMIC hose clamps, it popped. I could swear I tightened all of them. Guess not. The CPE FMIC only came with basic clamps. I ordered T-Bolt clamps to replace them, but never got around to actually putting on the new clamps. So, when I did the injector job, I did the new clamps and must not tightened one. I'm so stupid.

That is sweet that it was so simple . Dude, I did the exact same thing when I put my CPE fmic on. I forgot to tighten the one t-bolt on the TB, and drove home (2am of course) with +20 LTFTs, hahaha. I just grannied it home, and saw it immediately the next day. I hate those CPE couplers.. they're paper thin. I just ordered 5 new thicker ply ones to replace the 5 straight ones that'll be left after the BT. Also, somehow 3 t-bolts clamps had escaped, and 3 worm clamps had moved in... wtf. I ordered them from here: SiliconeCouplers.com - Silicone Couplers | Intercooler Parts | Hose Coupler | Turbo Intercooler this morning, and they already shipped! Something to consider . I'm also replacing all my shit vac line w/ some 6mm line from here: SiliconeCouplers.com - Silicone Couplers | Intercooler Parts | Hose Coupler | Turbo Intercooler. SOOO done with chasing small fucking boost leaks here there, esp w/ the BT going on.

[Speedie6]

I order similar stuff from simiconeintakes.com. They have the thick vacuum hose, and T-bolt clamps. That's where I got the T-bolt clamps for my FMIC that I just put on.

As far as the lean code possibly due to vacuum leak... Well, I think I know what that is. Maybe you or Silver can point me the way for sure.... When I was putting everything back together, I couldn't remember for 100% certain how all the vacuum lines went. But, I thought that there is basically one line that has I have a few things Tee'd into. It goes to the connection on the end of the BOV, and to the vacuum connection on the IM, the connection right next to the VCTS solenoid. It also connects to my boost gauge. And I assume somewhere there is a connection into the ECU. That's right so far, right?

Well, there was a connection I couldn't figure out what it went to. It comes off the top of my Tial wastegate. I figured it must Tee into the same vacuum connection, so, I hooked it there. I did send Cobb an e-mail asking for sure, and they sent back that actually it is supposed to be open. Obviously, I don't know what the fuck I'm doing, but, that much sounds strange to me. Cobb hooked a vacuum hose up to it, ran that hose up near the other vacuum connections, and left it open. That is right?

Sorry for asking a dumb question.

[dougefresh_]

the vac goes into the ebcs then into car's skull. Then it differs if bleed vs interrupt mode. If it's a 3 port, the one that you're leaving open is the one that used to go to the tip I'm guessing, and it's only a tiny ass amount of air.... like a frog fart. Perrin told me the same thing last year, and although I recir'd it w/ the Cobb anyhow, it will be open w/ the BT as there is no recirc line on the metal intake. I could care less.

Is there a nipple on you're TIP or no? What tip? If no, then that's why that one port is open. What ebcs are you using? stocker? No such thing as a dumb q, unless I'm the one asking, lol

[turd burglar]

So never heard about my bores not bein spotless clean. Is it gonna be an issue? It was thin enough of a little ring of carbon left in cylinder 1 that I couldn't even notice it with my finger

[Speedie6]

Well, getting too much off topic. I'll PM doughfresh_ or Silver if I have any more questions. Thanks and sorry for the distraction from SilverDemon/CPE's great injector seal part.


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Originally Posted by turd burglar So never heard about my bores not bein spotless clean. Is it gonna be an issue? It was thin enough of a little ring of carbon left in cylinder 1 that I couldn't even notice it with my finger

I saw your post and didn't want to answer, I figured that a real expert would answer. But, my guess is, a very tiny amount is okay. I got a little anal on my holes, so to speak, since I wanted to be sure.

[turd burglar]

Hahaha anal on my holes. Classic

[SilverDemon]

Turd, you will want to get the bores as clean as possible. Speedie had some good ideas earlier in this thread about how to clean them with a dremel tool. Basically, just do not scratch or gouge the seal surface, wooden toothpicks and soaking the carbon lined ports with WD-40 works good, brake cleaner evaporates too quickly, and if enough gets into the combustion chamber it could remove all the oil from the cylinder walls.

[turd burglar]

Well shit, it's a little late for that lol but I will just hope they hold, and if not I will buy another set I guess. But like I said I couldn't even detect a raised portion with my finger, and it was down in the area where the oem pieces of crap set in, so the new seal doesn't really reach down in there anyway. Or so I hope now lol

[SilverDemon]

Yeah, I think you will be fine, especially if you could not detect a raised surface with your finger nail.

[Speedie6]

Originally Posted by SilverDemon brake cleaner evaporates too quickly, and if enough gets into the combustion chamber it could remove all the oil from the cylinder walls.

Hmmm. Before I thought of using the dremel tool, I tried brake cleaner and sprayed a shitload. But, the car sat in the garage a week so presumably it all evaporated.

[ak_spray]

Anyone know what the diameter of the injector hole is? This might sound strange but you could use a bore brush like for a gun. Problem is the largest copper brush you are going to find at, lets say, Wal-Mart is a .45 caliber so not quite half an inch.

[FORZDA 1]

The best "tools" I've found for removing the crud is a cut popsicle stick(wood, so it doesn't gouge the aluminum) and a dremel tool with soft sanding buffs. Not the sandpaper discs, but the fiber doodads like scotch-brite material (Lowe's).

[jmhinkle]

Walmart carries shotgun brushes too or the fancy box that has everything that I got for $16 I think, but I don't think you want to be in there with a copper brush that stiff. A stiff nylon brush like for the dremel should work fine. I had 50k miles and burned up seals, and only 1 hole with a little stuff that cleaned up pretty easy. Are you guys seeing really thick crap or what?

[Speedie6]

So, today was the first day of actually driving my car more than around the block. Is running great. I was actually afraid that I might have done something that goofed up the boost control (by not hooking up the vacuum right) and caused it to overboost and blow a ring or something disastrous.

I still have the lean code, so, I'm not going to run it hard until I resolve it, but, I think it'll probably go away by itself.

Originally Posted by jmhinkle Walmart carries shotgun brushes too or the fancy box that has everything that I got for $16 I think, but I don't think you want to be in there with a copper brush that stiff. A stiff nylon brush like for the dremel should work fine. I had 50k miles and burned up seals, and only 1 hole with a little stuff that cleaned up pretty easy. Are you guys seeing really thick crap or what?

I agree, no metal brushes! The nylon tip for the dremel was great. My one particular hole, the one that I had to use the injector removal tool, was really badly caked up. It took me a couple of hours, trying different things, like the brake cleaner that Silver says I shouldn't have used.

My dremel also has similar metal brushes, but I knew not to try that. The nylon one worked great.

[jmhinkle]

Did you not reset the code after fixing your issue? Once you fix an issue (or multiple in this case) you should always reset your codes to see if it was fixed. Not to mention you can then monitor AFR and FT's (assuming your MAF is cal'ed decently) to see if you still have an issue to address.

[SSinstaller]

I used carb cleaner and q-tips to remove all the gunk in my injector bores... The carb cleaner ate right through all the hard carbon buildup...

[Speedie6]

Originally Posted by jmhinkle Did you not reset the code after fixing your issue? Once you fix an issue (or multiple in this case) you should always reset your codes to see if it was fixed. Not to mention you can then monitor AFR and FT's (assuming your MAF is cal'ed decently) to see if you still have an issue to address.

I've got a Dashhawk, so I could monitor that stuff. But I'm too ignorant on what to look for.

Originally Posted by SSinstaller I used carb cleaner and q-tips to remove all the gunk in my injector bores... The carb cleaner ate right through all the hard carbon buildup...

That's a great idea too.