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 Old 12-26-2011, 11:09 PM   #121
 
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Your scaling won't be linear for the entire maf cal.. You'll most likely peak somewhere around 700 gs..
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 Old 12-27-2011, 08:25 AM   #122
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Originally Posted by Tomas View Post

looks like someone is spraying water/meth into their turbo...

I thought you had a BT so why spray preturbo? I can see doing that to a disposable K04 but why a BT?

Have you been doing this before, how many miles and what does your comp blade look like?
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 Old 12-27-2011, 08:36 AM   #123
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I spray with a D0.75 nozzle pre turbo and D03 post but I want to go down to D02 or D01.
No visible wear on compressor blades.
Doing it for about 4k miles. I can tell you I've seen turbos that sprayed pre turbo for a very long time with bigger nozzles and blade wear was minimal.
Besides. A new compressor wheel + rotor balancing is not that expensive.
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 Old 08-08-2012, 01:32 PM   #124
 
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I saw this mentioned once before but without answers would the air straightener not help in a situation where you see resistance post hard bends in FMIC piping setups? Example: most FMIC setups have a 90 degree bind right before the inlet/outlets, what if a air straightener was used in these circumstances, would we see a better higher rate of flow into the IC allowing for better cooling??? would it hurt anything?
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 Old 08-08-2012, 05:48 PM   #125
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Originally Posted by ESB Jiu JItsu View Post
I saw this mentioned once before but without answers would the air straightener not help in a situation where you see resistance post hard bends in FMIC piping setups? Example: most FMIC setups have a 90 degree bind right before the inlet/outlets, what if a air straightener was used in these circumstances, would we see a better higher rate of flow into the IC allowing for better cooling??? would it hurt anything?
it would just be an added restriction
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 Old 08-10-2012, 07:23 AM   #126
 
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Im trying to find some of this stuff locally... can any of you guys take a look at this website and see if anything looks like a match. Im not 100% sure how they are listing these.
Aluminum Honeycomb - Aviation Metals


thank you!! any other ideas of where i can find an air straightener local in NC?
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 Old 08-23-2012, 09:44 AM   #127
 
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ordered some maf screen finally (the good stuff)

Honeycomb for
MAF
Cell size : 3/16 cell 5:1 ratio
Size : 73mm


Hoping this will help with my setup and calm some readings as most are seeing! great thread! thanks to all contributors!
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 Old 08-23-2012, 09:40 PM   #128
 
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With my CP-E Big Maf I've been experiencing a lot of the same issues. Went ahead and ordered some of the 7:1 86mm Honeycomb. From the great info in this thread, it should definitely stabilize my AFRs (a bit more anyways).

I live in Arizona and when its been cooler or raining I am within 3% at idle. My LTFTs are all within 2% after that but my AFR fluctuates an awful lot (between ~13.5-15). My WOT logs do flucuate but not terribly.. I'm on a very conservative tune because of the heat and I'm commanding 11.4 and getting my main values between 11.35-11.48. I do see a little dip in the 3.8v range to 11.25. We will see..
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 Old 09-01-2012, 07:42 PM   #129
 
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Just got my honeycomb installed.. Being that it was only slightly larger, I was able to just shape the sides a bit with compression rather than dealing with cutting. I was able to push it in rather easily, albeit a very snug fit, because the CPE big MAF has a taper at the front of the intake.. I will update with some results later..
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 Old 09-02-2012, 04:00 AM   #130
 
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Originally Posted by Carlo1170 View Post
Just got my honeycomb installed.. Being that it was only slightly larger, I was able to just shape the sides a bit with compression rather than dealing with cutting. I was able to push it in rather easily, albeit a very snug fit, because the CPE big MAF has a taper at the front of the intake.. I will update with some results later..
thats exactly what i did as well worked perfectly with some jb weld finished off nicely and works well. Improved my setup greatly. Took the ecu a day to get use to it.
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 Old 09-02-2012, 10:27 AM   #131
 
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Originally Posted by ESB Jiu JItsu View Post
thats exactly what i did as well worked perfectly with some jb weld finished off nicely and works well. Improved my setup greatly. Took the ecu a day to get use to it.

Didn't even need to use the JB. Its a very tight fit and of course the honeycomb is in front of the MAF so it's not moving anywhere. I havent gotten a chance to log any results yet but just by observation its definitely smoothed out my cruising AFRs. I also noticed my trims changed a little bit, by about 6% on the low end of the MAF range so I will do another mafcal.
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 Old 09-03-2012, 07:28 AM   #132
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Originally Posted by Carlo1170 View Post
With my CP-E Big Maf I've been experiencing a lot of the same issues. Went ahead and ordered some of the 7:1 86mm Honeycomb. From the great info in this thread, it should definitely stabilize my AFRs (a bit more anyways).

I live in Arizona and when its been cooler or raining I am within 3% at idle. My LTFTs are all within 2% after that but my AFR fluctuates an awful lot (between ~13.5-15). My WOT logs do flucuate but not terribly.. I'm on a very conservative tune because of the heat and I'm commanding 11.4 and getting my main values between 11.35-11.48. I do see a little dip in the 3.8v range to 11.25. We will see..
Just ordered the 7:1 86mm as well...
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 Old 09-03-2012, 01:41 PM   #133
 
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let us know 12pk
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 Old 09-04-2012, 03:07 AM   #134
 
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Alright so after driving on my most recent mafcal my AFRs have steadied quite a bit. Before the honeycomb, cruising would fluctuate between 13.5-15.5 AFR. Now, I am between 14.5-14.8 cruising. Huge improvement.

As for WOT. I am now targeting 11.5( slowly increasing) and I was seeing 11.48 for most of my logs with a few random drops to 11.37. This is also a huge improvement from targeting 11.4 and getting 11.2-11.6 through my runs.

I appreciate all the input and research that's gone into this. If it weren't for this thread I wouldn't have done this because CP-E was of NO help at all. I attempted to email them asking the experience they've had. All they said was they never had to use one.. I then Explained myself further and I kind of feel like they made me out to be an idiot because the guy just emailed me back their CP-E bigmaf starting calibration numbers after I clearly told them the issues and that is where I started.. I gave up and bit the bullet.

CPE should really think about integrating or making one of these available for their customers. I find it really hard to believe that these airflow straighteners aren't really needed. With my CPE CAI, my AFRs weren't as erratic and i know the big MAF will cause that. There's no way they think this is okay do they?
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 Old 09-11-2012, 08:01 AM   #135
 
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i noticed also once i went back to draw through after attempting blow through that the air straightener helped minimize back firing even when running vta still but also leveled out my afr's and aided flow. This thread is gold and now ill be completely ready for blow through once someone send me their AP lol
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 Old 09-11-2012, 08:17 AM   #136
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I run a honeycomb straightener in my JBR 3.5 and AF is rock solid. Link to thread with pics and a few AF plots.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...0/#post1601663
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 Old 09-11-2012, 09:46 AM   #137
 
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Originally Posted by Dano View Post
I run a honeycomb straightener in my JBR 3.5 and AF is rock solid. Link to thread with pics and a few AF plots.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...0/#post1601663
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 Old 09-11-2012, 10:14 AM   #138
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hater


just trying to link as much info together as possible...
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 Old 09-12-2012, 04:37 AM   #139
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Originally Posted by greg08 View Post
let us know 12pk
I installed mine in about 3 min after crushing down a little around the edges. It was installed right inside the CPE MAF housing probably 2'' up from the MAF sensor.

Honestly, I cannot say that I have observed any positive or negative changes over the last several days.

I still have a non-crisp region of running in the lower airflow ranges (<~50 g/s) that I was hoping to have a positive influence on.
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 Old 09-13-2012, 07:05 PM   #140
 
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hmm, that stinks :p
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 Old 06-09-2014, 10:41 AM   #141
 
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Hate to necro an old thread but as @Lex had brought to my attention that I am having potential turbulence issues after putting the car in idle at 40 mph causing my RPMs to fluctuate. I am looking at this as a potential solution to my problem. I'm thinking I will go 6:1 ratio and my question lies in if doing a 75 mm for the SURE Full 3 ID300 3" MAF housing unit would be large enough? I know 75 mm comes in like .05 inches short of 3, but I figure it will come damn close and if not perfect I planned on doing similar to skate and wrapping it in electrical tape to seat it which i'm sure will add .05 inches with 1 or 2 layers and get me a nice wedged fit, anyone see a problem with this setup?
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Originally Posted by Emew View Post
Hate to necro an old thread but as @Lex had brought to my attention that I am having potential turbulence issues after putting the car in idle at 40 mph causing my RPMs to fluctuate. I am looking at this as a potential solution to my problem. I'm thinking I will go 6:1 ratio and my question lies in if doing a 75 mm for the SURE Full 3 ID300 3" MAF housing unit would be large enough? I know 75 mm comes in like .05 inches short of 3, but I figure it will come damn close and if not perfect I planned on doing similar to skate and wrapping it in electrical tape to seat it which i'm sure will add .05 inches with 1 or 2 layers and get me a nice wedged fit, anyone see a problem with this setup?
Nope, I have mine wrapped in a little electrical tape. Definitely helped with the condition you are describing. Just remember to re calibrate.
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 Old 06-14-2014, 03:00 PM   #143
 
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Originally Posted by 86AmishMs3 View Post
Nope, I have mine wrapped in a little electrical tape. Definitely helped with the condition you are describing. Just remember to re calibrate.
75mm was too small and tape got a nice fit right at the mouth of the intake. I know earlier it was discussed for proper straightening; further from maf is better. Any idea how many g/s of airflow I sacrificed by wrapping something like 9-10 layers of electrical tape around this honeycomb? Or is it just insignificant to the point of like .5 WHP?
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