MS6 CXRacing 2.25 FMIC DIY Setup

[ESB Jiu JItsu]

ORIGINAL POST: CONCEPT
(For the most up to date design notes, parts list, etc. please see very end of this OP)

So with all the recent CXracing and ebay FMIC ms6 diy kits showing up all over the place i figured I would share my 2.25 piping setup I just purchased. After doing a good bit of research i decided on going with 2.25in piping because i plan on sticking with the ko4 and have limited hp goals. My basic goal was to just increase the efficiency of cooling system and not really prep the car for a BT or high hp goals. Just keep the turbo lag the same as stock, decrease heat soak, and of course increase performance without adding a lot of weight.

I have read up on many peoples kits and with what i plan on doing i should not need to relocate the washer tank and should have minimal cutting and trimming of the front bumper due to my pipe size. Below are the few items I needed to purchase off ebay. I should have everythnig in soon and will of course document the DIY process and post up my exact cuts and layout. I hope others enjoy and look forward to seeing how the 2.25in piping performs. In the future i do plan on upgrading the intercooler its self but figured this should work just fine with what im currently running and should suffice for the majority of my future planned mods.

So here are the pcs to the kit, below is a part out list....





BOV + 28x7x2.5 Intercooler + 2.25" Turbo Piping Kit | eBay

90 degree 2" to 2.25" 51mm/57mm universal silicone hose reducer | eBay

2.25" - 2.75" 57mm to 70mm Silicone Reducer Hose Black | eBay


Parts List: ( SEE MOST RECENT UPDATED LIST AT THE BTM OF THIS POST)

Bar & Plate Intercooler 28x7x2.5 inch - Inlet and outlet sizes: 2.5 inch
2.25" Straight Aluminum Pipe x2
2.25" 45 Degree Aluminum Pipe x2
2.25" 75 Degree Aluminum Pipe x2
2.25" J Aluminum Pipe x2
2.25" Straight Silicon Hose x4
2.5"~2.25" Silicon Reducer Hose x2
2.25" 90 Degree Hose x2
2.25" Stainless Steel T-Clamp x14
2.5" Stainless Steel T-Clamp x2
Blow Off Valve x1
2.25" Aluminum BOV Flange Pipe x1
Vacuum Hose And Accessories
Silicone 90 Degree Elbow Reducer Hose 2" To 2.25" Black
2.25" - 2.75" 57mm to 70mm Silicone Reducer Hose Black


Some of the piping will not be used but better to have extra then not, just in case. Also I may or may not use the supplied BOV, depends on the quality but hell it comes with the kit so worth a look see.

So total part costs $ 234.00 and all of the parts have free shipping. Now thats one inexpensive intercooler setup!!!!!


*Also to make sure and not heat soak any engine bay pipes I will be keping and modifying my stock TMIC inlet ducting to help cool the top pipe and motor, and will also heat wrap all of the pipes and more then likely buy a heat blanket for the turbo and the long pipe that will stretch across the motor. Ill update these costs to the build soon.

Added-> DEI 010129 2"x15' Titanium Header Exhaust Heat Wrap $ 18.00

Still searching for the least expensive turbo blanket....




COLLECTED DATA FOR DESIGN:


Stock TMIC


Core Size: 11 x 13 x 2 = 286

Air Inlet Size: 2 x (8 x 1.5 ducts) = 24
(Ducting mounted under hood)



DIY FMIC


Core Size: 22 x 7 x 2.5 = 385
(25.714 % Increase in core size over stock)

Air Inlet Size: 1 x (28 x 10) = 280
(Front Air dam 10X the contact area for air)


So as you can see even a budget DIY EBAY FMIC seems to be a WIN over the stock TMIC fo many reasons. The core size can be increased, along with the area in which air can travel to hit the IC, also heat soak (obviously). Now the qualtity of the parts im using is up in the air but i can always upgrade in the future to increase the efficiency of the setup. Also im hoping that Ill be able to keep my pipes cool enough to actually be utilizing that travel as additional cooling to the charged air by using heat wrap, tube blankets, turbo blanket, and i already have a vented hood that really keeps down ambient under the hood temps, especially in stop and go, or in the mountains. I also plan on directing and focusing the air still coming from the stock ducting system to cool the top pipe coming across the engine. Comments and concerns are welcome. I love working on cars and fabing things so Im sure i can tackle this, Im just excited to document it and see how it turns out!

Decided to start compiling some data..... please let me know if you have figures that suggest other wise. All of this is based off of information i have searched on the internet.....


Stock k04 @ 15.6 psi @ 5560 rpm cfm flow rate of 491 cfm
Stock k04 @ 19 Psi @ 5560 rpm cfm flow rate of 564 cfm
BNR stage 3 25% more efficient then stock which puts it at about 614 cfm


CXracing intercooler max cfm flow rate of 700 cfm


PIPING FLOW RATES-

2" piping
1.57 x 2 = 3.14 sq in
300 cfm = 156 mph = 0.20 mach
400 cfm = 208 mph = 0.27 mach
500 cfm = 261 mph = 0.34 mach
585 cfm max = 304 mph = 0.40 mach


2.25" piping
3.9740625 sq in = 1.98703125 x 2
300 cfm = 123 mph = 0.16 mach
400 cfm = 164 mph = 0.21 mach
500 cfm = 205 mph = 0.26 mach
600 cfm = 247 mph = 0.32 mach
700 cfm = 288 mph = 0.37 mach
740 cfm max = 304 mph = 0.40 mach


2.5" piping
4.90625 sq in = 2.453125 x 2
300 cfm = 100 mph = 0.13 mach
400 cfm = 133 mph = 0.17 mach
500 cfm = 166 mph = 0.21 mach
600 cfm = 200 mph = 0.26 mach
700 cfm = 233 mph = 0.30 mach
800 cfm = 266 mph = 0.34 mach
900 cfm = 300 mph = 0.39 mach
913 cfm max = 304 mph = 0.40 mach

*.4 Mach is the point at which air becomes turbulent and losses in efficiency start to occur exponentially. The key is to stay under that speed. You want to use the smallest piping possible that still flows enough to meet your needs. Larger than necessary piping increases lag time with no measurable gain


So if you look at my current setup of stock boost and turbo I should technically be running 2in piping for max inefficiency but the 2.25in piping is still in the GOOD range. my plans are to run a BNR stage 3 upgrade in the future which puts me right in line with my goals and the cfm rating my system is setup for.

In my opinion it looks as if going to 2.5 piping would really require a BT setup with some high cfms other wise 2.25 is MONEY!


Also just found this....
http://www.pressure-drop.com/Online-...tor/index.html

ill put in some numbers and see if i can make a graph that shows the bends and diameters with their pressure drops. Then i can calculate the entire systems pressure drop through solidworks calculating my inner area.

I cannot stress how much research I have sorted through showing the resistance in the system in the form of bends is were the largest amount of pressure drop and flow restriction is. Here is a little blurb....

"So let’s cut to the chase - what are some of the useful figures? Let’s take a 3-inch tube: that’s pretty common these days on both high performance exhausts and intakes. A tight 90-degree bend (where ‘tight’ means a radius about equal to the diameter, ie in this case 3 inches) poses the same restriction as 7.5 feet (2.3 metres) of straight pipe!

A long radius 90-degree bend (a bend radius of 4.5 inches, or 11.4cm) has a flow restriction equal to about 5 feet (about 1.5 metres) of straight pipe.

A 45-degree bend? Well, one with a radius of bend the same as its 3-inch diameter has an equivalent flow restriction of 4 feet, or about 1.2 metres. A 180-degree bend with a 1:1 radius/diameter? It’s got the same flow restriction as 12 feet of straight pipe - that’s an incredible 3.7 metres!

Get the picture? Those bends - even when they are relatively open - drop flow to a major degree. If the mass of air contained within the pipework isn’t critical (eg as it is for intercooler plumbing, where throttle response loss needs to be minimised) it makes a helluva lot of sense to go much longer rather than put in tight bends."

So longer piping with less bends is infact better then shorter piping with drastic bends. I think this is another good reason to go the short rouse on one side and long on the other. To help keep a good balance. also may help some of you guys claiming to not have as quick of spool as stock when going to FMIC. Count your bends up and see

DESIGN- PIPE ROUTE AND ASSEMBLY


Turbo
2 to 2.25 Reducer 45 deg. Elbow Coupler
2.25 Pipe 30 deg. Bend + straight
2.25 Coupler
2.25 Straight Pipe
2.25 Coupler
2.25 Pipe 75 deg. Bend
2.25 Coupler
2.25 Pipe 45 deg. Bend + straight
2.25 Coupler
2.25 Pipe 75 Deg. Bend
2.25 to 2.5 Reducer Coupler
Intercooler
2.25 to 2.5 Reducer Coupler
2.25 Pipe 75 Deg. Bend
2.25- 45 Deg. Coupler
2.25 Pipe 30 Deg. Bend + Straight
2.25- 45 Deg. Coupler
2.25 BOV Flange Pipe
2.25 to 2.75 Reducer Coupler

DESIGN- SOLID WORKS RENDERINGS (in chronological order)








Here is a video of the setup.....

MS6 :: 2012-06-29_16-49-24_912.mp4 video by esbjiujitsu - Photobucket




PICTURES OF THE SETUP (V 1.0)

Some pictures of the setup up to this point. Lot of the bends and setup has changed to allow for the best possible flow. I will update my parts list soon!





I went with the washer routing on the passenger side to keep bend radi at a minimum. I didnt notice a big difference in piping length going this route over the drop in front of the radiator option and i did not care about my washer fluid. Also notice I use 75 degree bends instead of 90s to reduce the resistance.



Went with the tight bend around the radiator on this side because I did notice a difference in piping length going this route and I didnt want to squeeze to many pipes through the same space due to the fact i run a CAI.



Top view of engine. Decided with a straight route across the engine to eliminate unneeded bends. Also used another 75 degree bend here vs the common 90 degree.



Recessed mounting bolts for the intercooler. No need for a bracket the height was perfect with the btm of the top half of the crash bar.



FINALIZED aka CURRENT SETUP (V 2.0)

Parts List:

Bar & Plate Intercooler 28x7x2.5 inch - Inlet and outlet sizes: 2.5 inch
2.25" Straight Aluminum Pipe x2
2.25" 45 Degree Aluminum Pipe x1
2.25" 75 Degree Aluminum Pipe x3
2.25" Straight Silicon Hose x4
2.5"~2.25" Silicon Reducer Hose x2
2.25" 45 Degree Hose x 1
2.25" 90 Degree Hose x1
2.25" Stainless Steel T-Clamp x14
2.5" Stainless Steel T-Clamp x2
Silicone 45 Degree Elbow Reducer Hose 2" To 2.25" Black
2.25" - 2.75" Silicone Reducer Hose Black
Blow Off Valve x1
2.25" Aluminum BOV Flange Pipe x1
Vacuum Hose And Accessories


Routing:

Turbo—
2 to 2.25 Reducer 45 deg. Elbow Coupler
2.25 Pipe 30 deg. Bend + straight
2.25 Coupler
2.25 Straight Pipe
2.25 Coupler
2.25 Pipe 75 deg. Bend
2.25 Coupler
2.25 Pipe 30 deg. Bend + straight
2.25 Coupler
2.25 Pipe 75 Deg. Bend
2.25 to 2.5 Reducer Coupler
Intercooler
2.25 to 2.5 Reducer Coupler
2.25 Pipe 75 Deg. Bend
2.25- 90 Deg. Coupler
2.25 Pipe Straight
2.25- 45 Deg. Coupler
2.25 BOV Flange Pipe
2.25 to 2.75 Reducer Coupler

Pictures:
















CONCLUSION (V 2.0)

2 words sum up this build for me.....rewarding and educational. Not only did I end up with a FMIC kit for under $250, but I will be doing plenty of tests to prove my $250 FMIC setup will out perform even the highest name brand FMIC/TMIC kids for the ms6. My journey here is not over yet I already have plans to sell this kit and actually make a v3.0 which will end up being easily the shortest IC pipe, and lowest resistance FMIC design EVER for the ms6 or ms3! So stay tuned. Ill probably generate a whole new thread for that setup as it will require lots of cutting!

Despite having tons of time under the hood of lots of cars this was my first front mount build. In all honestly its not that hard, it just all depends on these 3 questions....

Will you be using the Stock turbo or BT?
If your running stock turbo I suggest 2.25 in piping, and if your going BT then I would possibly go to 2.5. Personally for BT i feel a mix of 2.25 hot side and 2.5 cold side would yeild the best results.


Are you looking for High gains or just a better then stock cooling solution?
You want the most efficient setup possible,then you want limited bends with as low a radii as possible and minimal tube length. That will mean cutting and test fitting a lot. Power doesn't come easy and if you want the best you have to be willing to spend some time revising. Just looking for something that will cool better then the TMIC and not heat soak then just route the piping so that its easy to check, limited cutting required for stock parts, and keep all your stock goodies. The FMIC will perform over a TMIC even without going through the trouble of reducing bends and lengths.


To cut or not to cut the crash bar?
This falls into the question above..... do you want the best setup possible and the most air. Cut the crash bar...even 1/2 of it will improve the air flow to the FMIC. Cut it all the way if you want a giant IC, the bigger you go the more cooling you will see. Dont want to cut the stock crash bar no problem.... go shorter but thicker on the IC, just bare in bind this limits flow.


I will continue to update this as i can and as I improve this particular setup prior to the even more badass setup COMING SOON!