p0123 Overboost?

[G3nwonMazdaratti]

Wastegate opens as soon as I hit half - WOT.. Not sure why. The accessport says it can make adjustments to correct it on the OTS maps, is there anything it could do for a custom 91 tune..? Or any other suggestions? Car had a P0123 code for Engine Overboost condition.I cleaned the catch cans, tightened all intercooler piping, reflashed tune, and now, I've replaced the ebcs and vacuum line to the wastegate. Still haven't fixed the Overboost. There is no turbo noise or bov, because all the boost exits the wastegate. wont build boost unless in high rpms, and even then it takes an extensive amount of time..

Mod list consists of:
-91 octane tune,
-bnr s3,
-ffs 5k,
-Grimmspeed ebcs,
-88mm Wiseco pistons,
-k1 rods,
-3.5" HTP intake,
-3" catless dp cbe,
-Autotech HPFP internals,
-Cx-racing fmic,
-Damond TB spacer,
-jbr Im spacer,
-Kozmic egr delete,
-Go fast Bitz blows off valve recirculated,
-occ set to vta under boost,
-c-pe safe seals,
-light weight fidanza flywheel, banjo bolt,
-sure short shift plate, streetunit rmm,
-ngk 6510 spark plugs,
-3 bar map sensor,
-IM flap runner delete,
-jbr bsd oil baffle.

-Making 350+whp on 91; and 400+whp on e33

[dale_gribble]

If I had to guess, I'm guessing you just bought this car didn't you?

[Vansquish]

What exact tune?

[Mike@Stratified]

Log? Weather?

[dale_gribble]

There's a huge disconnect between what mods are explained and the lack of knowledge of tune. If I look at the Mod List, it looks cut/pasted from a CL ad.

[Vansquish]

LMAO, I think I finally teased out the problem here.

The OP sounds like he's got all that shit in his car, but is still running an OTS tune. No fucking shit, it's going to overboost!!

[MS3Shadow]

He thinks the OTS tune can make adjustments on it own relating to his mods.

sent from my Nexus 6P

[Vansquish]

Oy, @G3nwonMazdaratti;, where you at?

You must use a tune customized for your mods, you cannot use an OTS map and have the car run safely with an aftermarket map sensor, intake, or downpipe, much less your turbo.

[MS3Shadow]

Originally Posted by Vansquish Oy, @G3nwonMazdaratti;, where you at? You must use a tune customized for your mods, you cannot use an OTS map and have the car run safely with an aftermarket map sensor, intake, or downpipe, much less your turbo.

He should be around the Minnesota area.

sent from my Nexus 6P

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by MS3Shadow He should be around the Minnesota area. sent from my Nexus 6P

I should groan you for that. :-P

[MS3Shadow]

Originally Posted by Vansquish I should groan you for that. :-P

Haha, I went off the IP, apparently the ISP is Qwest.

sent from my Nexus 6P

[sheston]

Did you guys scare him off?

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by MS3Shadow Haha, I went off the IP, apparently the ISP is Qwest. sent from my Nexus 6P

I was just asking to see if he was avoiding his own thread.

[dale_gribble]

Troll maybe?

[g00s3y]

Included "ffs 5k" as a mod.
400+ on e33 with a cxracing FMIC.

Troll.

[gjkissel]

I'm just commenting to laugh at this fuckery.

[G3nwonMazdaratti]

Originally Posted by Vansquish LMAO, I think I finally teased out the problem here. The OP sounds like he's got all that shit in his car, but is still running an OTS tune. No fucking shit, it's going to overboost!!

No i have a custom 91 Freek tune currently making 350+whp. i would never run an ots map on my build.

Originally Posted by dale_gribble If I had to guess, I'm guessing you just bought this car didn't you?

Yes, i purchased the car back in the beginning of November from a resident of the MN, twin cities south metro.

Originally Posted by g00s3y Included "ffs 5k" as a mod. 400+ on e33 with a cxracing FMIC. Troll.

I listed everything that my accessport said was on my tune. I'm just trying to get as much help as possible.

Just so it's clear. IT'S FREEK TUNED ON 91, making 350+ CURRENTLY!!!! I have another e33 tune that makes 400+ for the summer. I'm not troll, i listed everything that my Accessport said was on the tune. I'm from Minnesota. I purchased the car at the beginning of november from someone in the south metro. He has been helping me diagnose my problem. My data was logged and sent To Justin at freek tune. Currently waiting a response from him. Thanks to anyone that is trying to help.

[G3nwonMazdaratti]

Originally Posted by Vansquish What exact tune?

Custom 91, Freek tuned by Justin Brasil

[G3nwonMazdaratti]

Originally Posted by dale_gribble If I had to guess, I'm guessing you just bought this car didn't you?

also, ive owned a mazdaspeed miata that i sold and i got a stock speed3. i sold the stock speed 3 and bought this one already built.

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by G3nwonMazdaratti Wastegate opens as soon as I hit half - WOT.. wont build boost unless in high rpms, and even then it takes an extensive amount of time..

1. How do you know that the wastegate opens when you say it does? Does WGDC go to 0? Does it peg at 100?

2. Post datalogs. Without them, we have literally nothing to go on.

[G3nwonMazdaratti]

Originally Posted by Vansquish 1. How do you know that the wastegate opens when you say it does? Does WGDC go to 0? Does it peg at 100? 2. Post datalogs. Without them, we have literally nothing to go on.

-i will post the logs in a few minutes.
-v3 accessport show that as soon as i hit WOT the wastegate opens to 48-50 and then will slowly close and completely shut to 0 around 6,000. and thats when it will properly boost.

[G3nwonMazdaratti]

datalogs

[Vansquish]

Your understanding of the WGDC sounds very flawed.

The wastegate duty cycle should increase with boost pressure and RPM, not drop to zero. 100% should be when the wastegate is closed, and 0% is when it should be open.

Take pictures of your EBCS routing too.

Your map shows the exact behavior I would expect, except that the car was clearly tuned for a warmer climate, and as a result, the tune may need to be neutered a bit for cold weather and shittier gas.

Originally Posted by G3nwonMazdaratti -i will post the logs in a few minutes. -v3 accessport show that as soon as i hit WOT the wastegate opens to 48-50 and then will slowly close and completely shut to 0 around 6,000. and thats when it will properly boost.

No, that is not what your log shows. It shows that when you're shifting and your foot is off the gas near 6K, the WGDC drops to 0 (completely OPEN, not closed), and your boost drops off accordingly in those regions.

A proper WOT datalog should be done in 3rd or 4th gear and be a single consistent pull from just under 3000rpm all the way to well above 6000rpm.

[sheston]

That's got to be one of the weirdest logs I've seen. Especially for a Freek tune. Definitely looks like it needs some work.

I'd start by looking at your MAF cal. Seems your AFRs are all over the place and your LTFT and STFTs almost hit 10 in the small region we can see.

For an BNRS3, you don't seem to have the response you should. WGDG should go high trying to get your targeted boost (unless you have a load tune, and it's set very low). I'd try things like wastegate pre-load, etc.

Don't understand your first comment about all the boost goes out the wastegate? It's a closed system, wastegate is in the exhaust.....

I also don't understand why you call it an overboost problem. It's definitely not overboosting

[Slurpeeblood]

Piggybacking because I have a similar issue with fewer/no mods.

Been running on Cobb SRI + Cobb 91 Stage 1 for about 2 years with no problems. This spring started having fuel cut due to P0123 overboost (No CEL).

LOGS: datazap.me | absurdity | 4th gear pull 5/17

Noticed the MAF voltage was stuck, cleaned it, same problem a little less pronounced. Got CEL and MAF voltage too high errors. Replaced MAF. Issue persists.

Changed to Cobb 91 Safe Mode, issue persists.

Returned everything to Stock, uninstalled Accessport. Issue persists.

Sorry that I'm a total noob, I live at altitude in a colder climate so no doubt I'll need a better tune, but I'm confused as to why things would be stable for years only to shit the bed now. Any advice including a reputable shop in the Denver area is greatly appreciated!

[g00s3y]

Originally Posted by Slurpeeblood Piggybacking because I have a similar issue with fewer/no mods. Been running on Cobb SRI + Cobb 91 Stage 1 for about 2 years with no problems. This spring started having fuel cut due to P0123 overboost (No CEL). LOGS: datazap.me | absurdity | 4th gear pull 5/17 Noticed the MAF voltage was stuck, cleaned it, same problem a little less pronounced. Got CEL and MAF voltage too high errors. Replaced MAF. Issue persists. Changed to Cobb 91 Safe Mode, issue persists. Returned everything to Stock, uninstalled Accessport. Issue persists. Sorry that I'm a total noob, I live at altitude in a colder climate so no doubt I'll need a better tune, but I'm confused as to why things would be stable for years only to shit the bed now. Any advice including a reputable shop in the Denver area is greatly appreciated!

For the MAF check the wiring, it's been known to be shitty, and can cause problems. Some even re-wire using thicker, better insulated wiring. I noticed mine a couple times acting weird, messing with the wires a bit, and all is ok again. If you replaced the sensor with a brand new OEM mazda MAF (3rd party MAF sensors have known to have problems for some) and the problem is still there, Definitely look into the wiring.

Overboost, you just need to lower your WGDC in the Cobb OTS map some, or be a little more aggressive with the boost compensation.

Didn't look at the log, but i'm pretty sure that's why you were getting the overboost code.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Slurpeeblood Piggybacking because I have a similar issue with fewer/no mods. Been running on Cobb SRI + Cobb 91 Stage 1 for about 2 years with no problems. This spring started having fuel cut due to P0123 overboost (No CEL). LOGS: datazap.me | absurdity | 4th gear pull 5/17

Your MAF is done, it won't go past like 177g/s even if there's a lot more than that entering the intake at the limit of the MAP sensor (23PSI in your log, datalog6 is the one I'm looking at). Change it.

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by Slurpeeblood Piggybacking because I have a similar issue with fewer/no mods. Been running on Cobb SRI + Cobb 91 Stage 1 for about 2 years with no problems. This spring started having fuel cut due to P0123 overboost (No CEL). LOGS: datazap.me | absurdity | 4th gear pull 5/17 Noticed the MAF voltage was stuck, cleaned it, same problem a little less pronounced. Got CEL and MAF voltage too high errors. Replaced MAF. Issue persists. Changed to Cobb 91 Safe Mode, issue persists. Returned everything to Stock, uninstalled Accessport. Issue persists. Sorry that I'm a total noob, I live at altitude in a colder climate so no doubt I'll need a better tune, but I'm confused as to why things would be stable for years only to shit the bed now. Any advice including a reputable shop in the Denver area is greatly appreciated!

Please post a picture of the MAF that you installed with the part number visible. If you bought an aftermarket MAF sensor, the likelihood is that it isn't actually the correct one for our platform. This is a known problem. You have to buy an OEM MAF sensor to avoid calibration issues.

That said, if you're getting an overboost code, then that suggests your ECU map is also not properly designed.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Vansquish That said, if you're getting an overboost code, then that suggests your ECU map is also not properly designed.

If the tune is targeting load then it's pretty far off, so the WGDC adjustments will be pretty aggressive initially to up the load. It's hard to tell how the tune is with such a big defect like the MAF.

[Slurpeeblood]

Originally Posted by Vansquish Please post a picture of the MAF that you installed with the part number visible. If you bought an aftermarket MAF sensor, the likelihood is that it isn't actually the correct one for our platform. This is a known problem. You have to buy an OEM MAF sensor to avoid calibration issues. That said, if you're getting an overboost code, then that suggests your ECU map is also not properly designed.

Bought the MAF from a Mazda dealer, exactly the same as stock. L3K9 197400-2240.

I replaced the wiring with longer wires and didn't clip it to the battery box this time (wish I never had) and am getting good voltage on the MAF, 1V at idle, 3.6-4V under load.

Got the same issue pulling in 3rd though, don't have space to do another log yet.

I checked the codes again and I might be crazy - Getting a "PCM" error and P0234 (not P0123) overboost.

Not sure if that's different or if I just brainfarted and got them mixed up...

Found P0234 in another thread here:
P0234 and Stuff - Page 2 - Mazda3 Forums : The #1 Mazda 3 Forum

Wondering if it could be fuel cut? Would the turbo still boost over target with a lack of fuel, with the ECM assuming fuel is flowing and the limiting factor is intake?

The first CEL I ever got was for "system too lean" in the winter. Ran some injector cleaner and it went away, happened twice now. Could that be signs of a fuel system issue?

Another suspicious point is that I hadn't touched anything with the tune/intake/etc. for about two years, then suddenly engine overboost. Perhaps the combination of restricted fuel and bad MAF wiring is causing this but won't know for sure until I get the fuel system checked. Hoping it's not the solenoid or ECM itself, but that seems less likely.

Thanks for any advice!

[Vansquish]

Post a datalog. It's likely to be the only way that we'll be able to figure out exactly what's going on.

[G3nwonMazdaratti]

Originally Posted by sheston That's got to be one of the weirdest logs I've seen. Especially for a Freek tune. Definitely looks like it needs some work. I'd start by looking at your MAF cal. Seems your AFRs are all over the place and your LTFT and STFTs almost hit 10 in the small region we can see. For an BNRS3, you don't seem to have the response you should. WGDG should go high trying to get your targeted boost (unless you have a load tune, and it's set very low). I'd try things like wastegate pre-load, etc. Don't understand your first comment about all the boost goes out the wastegate? It's a closed system, wastegate is in the exhaust..... I also don't understand why you call it an overboost problem. It's definitely not overboosting

\

Disregard the first comment, i wasn't fully knowledgeable on the proper function of the wastegate. I uploaded a 2nd gear wot log. Still haven't resolved issue... But then again, i haven't tried anything tune related.. i said overboost because my car threw a cell for engine overboost condition (p0234). it happened as if i was boosting, got too much boost, and then loss of all power and hasnt been the same.

[G3nwonMazdaratti]

Originally Posted by Vansquish Post a datalog. It's likely to be the only way that we'll be able to figure out exactly what's going on.

2nd gear wot, should be 25#'s. only hits 14#'s..

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by G3nwonMazdaratti 2nd gear wot, should be 25#'s. only hits 14#'s..

Check your EBCS lines. It would appear that you're running spring-pressure only.

[sheston]

I agree, but there is a discussion in another thread about whether EBCS vented to atm will actually hurt a tune....

If not the EBCS, it looks like a leak of some sort. AFRs are all over the place (maybe partly due to low load being still in CL), but off WOT, LT and STFT are high as well

Earlier I said to look at your MAF cal assuming you had changed something going to the S3, if not, leaks are probably the best bet

[mituc]

Only 15psi and 300+ g/s of air... Even with all those flow mods I'd say the MAF is out of town taking a blow job somewhere on a side of the road.

The actual AFRs look good though but depending on the tune you may get the air difference fully compensated.

[G3nwonMazdaratti]

Originally Posted by Vansquish Check your EBCS lines. It would appear that you're running spring-pressure only.

i did, and i even replaced it with a new one.

I want to replace my wastegate actuator rod. I haven't done that yet and I think It might make a difference. Because if it's correct that 100% is all the way closed, mine only goes to 52. And if 0% is open, then at idle I'm always at 0. Is that correct..?

But it seems to boost better when the waste gate is at 0% or under 52%. Like at half throttle it makes more boost then wot.

So could my tune be fucked up..?

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by G3nwonMazdaratti i did, and i even replaced it with a new one.

What do you mean, "it"? There are three EBCS lines on a 3-port EBCS.

Originally Posted by G3nwonMazdaratti I want to replace my wastegate actuator rod. I haven't done that yet and I think It might make a difference.

Why would replacing your actuator rod do anything for you. The diaphragm in the actuator is the part of the actuator that matters.

Originally Posted by G3nwonMazdaratti Because if it's correct that 100% is all the way closed, mine only goes to 52. And if 0% is open, then at idle I'm always at 0. Is that correct.

If your EBCS is routed properly and functioning properly, then the answer is "sort of yes." 0% WGDC indicates that no effort is being put towards holding the wastegate closed. 52% WGDC indicates that the wastegate has to be held shut with a certain amount of pressure to balance out and counteract boost pressure above a preset value.

Originally Posted by G3nwonMazdaratti But it seems to boost better when the waste gate is at 0% or under 52%. Like at half throttle it makes more boost then wot. So could my tune be fucked up..?

Either you've got something plumbed incorrectly, a hose has ruptured, or your tune is fucked up. I don't think replacing your wastegate actuator is going to get you anything at all except a bunch of pain and suffering while you're swapping out the old one.

Moreover, I think you need to spend a bit more time reading your logs and making sure you understand what is in them. In the last log you posted, your car doesn't get into positive boost pressure until you're at about 2000rpm and your WGDC is around 50 at that point. Your car does NOT appear to be building boost better at 0% WGDC except for the fact that because it is running spring pressure it seems to be having a lot of trouble building boost until close to red line.

You should talk to @atvfreek; about this, especially if he was the one who tuned your car.

[Slurpeeblood]

Well sorry if it doesn't help but looks like I had both a broken MAF sensor wire AND a leak between the turbo and WG solenoid. Dry rot cracked hose. Couldn't reach it myself, but a shop replaced it for a couple bucks and I'm back n business, holding target boost at WOT up to redline.

Good luck to others with your woes.

[blackms3_71]

Originally Posted by Slurpeeblood Well sorry if it doesn't help but looks like I had both a broken MAF sensor wire AND a leak between the turbo and WG solenoid. Dry rot cracked hose. Couldn't reach it myself, but a shop replaced it for a couple bucks and I'm back n business, holding target boost at WOT up to redline. Good luck to others with your woes.

That is kinda common. Always leads to overboosting. Glad u found it.