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| Neutral : -1 score Just did this today on my MS6. Did not need to remove motor mount to take out the bolt under it . Just loosen bolts and nuts, drop the tranny/engine ever so slightly and you can get a gear wrench in there, piece of cake. Thanks OP for the write up!
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just bought a MS6 last month and noticed the same leak. Ordered the seal and fixing it when warmer weather comes. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Great write up and thanks for doing it. Mine has puked and I need to do this. Is the part number for the seal the same for ms6 & ms3? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score He has a valid question since this is a how to for the transmission smartass. However the part number is the same since the transmissions are almost the same.
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__________________ Was a Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop Now in a BMW 135i - double the turbos, double the fun! E82.N54 2009 / BSM / A/T / Drop-in / PR CP / Berk Street / MHD / xHP 340hp / 371tq |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Every time I try to post a reply I get a server error so the webmaster told me to post a short post then the full version...I posted Well, Then when I went to post the full version it still didn't work. Ugh. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'll try to post in 3 parts. Well, I did this last night and apart from one heart stopping moment it went ok. It did take me two hours to get the engine mount off though. The two nuts in the back wouldn’t move even with my compressor and ratchet, impact driver or swinging on a socket and ratchet. PB blaster eventually got the one in the very back to move but the nut under the cables took an hour and a half. I believe the cables mentioned in the write up are both (or at least one is) a gear selector cable rather than clutch cables. The write up says it was popped off with long nosed pliers…I had a hell of a job with mine and was worried about breaking something but it came off eventually. Now then, the heart stopping moment. On the end of one of the cables is a small piece of plastic that fits between the end of the cable and a slot in the pivot shaft. Mine was so caked in crud that I couldn’t tell there was a separate piece. When I pulled the shaft out of the transmission I knocked the piece off and luckily for me it didn’t fall into the transmission but instead landed on the floor under the car. Cue “oh shit” moment. At least it was obvious that it had come from outside the transmission rather than being a part of the internals due to the amount of crud caked onto it so I was able to figure out what it was in short order….still not what I wanted to happen at 11pm on my daily driver… After that reassembly was easy enough. All in all with the engine mount issue and having to run out to buy PB Blaster, 4.5 hours. I could have done it in half that with a bigger compressor/air ratchet set up. One amusing afterthought, just as I pulled the floor stand out from under the car and was about to release the pump jack the pump jack failed, pissing oil out all over the floor. Lucky for me I was done rather than when I had the engine mount off…that would have been awkward. @jrzy ms6; None of this is by any means criticism, I'm grateful for your write up. If I could ask one thing though, that you update the write up to point out the loose piece on the end of the cable, others may not be so lucky. If it had fallen into the transmission I may never have got it out again. Last edited by Mandinca; 02-21-2013 at 01:54 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Oh, and the other thing that happened was that just as I had got everything back together and was re-attaching the cables, the damn boot popped off. It can stay off, at least for now. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I get to the pivot shaft but could not figure out how to disconnec the shift cable off. anyone has any idea? thinking about doing it again tomorrow morining (sat. 23 feb.) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Put a large flathead screwdriver under the black part on the end and pry up. It should come off a little hard but it will come off.
__________________ 2006 Titanium Gray Mazdaspeed6 GT 2002 Mercedes Benz CLK 430 Cabriolet |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah, mine took some wrestling but it came off eventually. Persevere, you'll get there. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score My cable came off in one piece. Spent more time than I care to admit getting it off figuring there was a retainer clip to get to first. @Imhtwo I used a ratchet with a 6 inch extention for the Trans mount bolts. If you need more leverage put a pipe over the ratchet handle. Last edited by jrzy ms6; 03-01-2013 at 09:27 PM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score A word of warning. On the end of one of the cables is a small plastic adapter, it fits into a slot cut into the pivot shaft. As my setup was so caked in crud I couldn't see the adapter and as I was pulling the shaft out of the tranny the adapter fell off the end of the cable and narrowly missed falling down the hole. If it goes in there you'll probably never get it out again since the hole is about 10 inches deep. Make sure you pull the adapter off the end of the cable before you pull the shaft out. Also, the cotter pin can be a bitch. Finally, buy some gasket sealant, you'll need it when you put the plate back on. I didn't have any and it leaked so I had to re-do the job. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sorry, I didn't take pictures and there is no exploded view in the workshop manual that shows it. It's about 3/4" long by 1/2" wide and is hollowed out on one side. The hollowed out part is round (to fit the end of the cable) and the other side is flat (to fit in the notch on the pivot shaft). Just make sure you try to remove it from the end of the cable and if it's not there check the pivot shaft as it may have been left in the notch. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Edited... Thanx mandinca |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Great job and thanks for the write up! @mghtymouse380; and I did this yesterday on my 6. Total of 1.5 hours with beer drinking. We didn't need to remove the mount either, but did put a jack underneath to be safe. The nuts and bolts were loosened enough to make space to get a gear wrench in. Pretty easy and straightforward. Oh yeah, I forgot to remove the 14mm bolt on the front of the tranny so I was pulling like an idiot trying to get the shaft out. Don't forget that one lol.
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__________________ "Stockish" Black Mica 2010 MS3 Genpu Pickles Tune in progress | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Drain some fluid out ? And presumably when you blow the transmission it's not covered either. Replacing the seal is easy, just make sure you put it in the right way up. Watch out for the small plastic piece I mentioned earlier in this thread so it doesn't fall into the transmission and fuck up your immediate life. Oh yeah, and remove that bolt from the front....LOL. |
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__________________ "Stockish" Black Mica 2010 MS3 Genpu Pickles Tune in progress | |
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In 2006 my wife and I bought two cars from them. I got an '06 MS6 GT and my wife got an '07 CX-7 GT. We put 100K warranties on both and had them dealer serviced for the first 100K to avoid warranty issues. Around 25K I started getting turbo smoke so they replaced it under warranty. At 110K my VVT actuator started rattling so I drove it around until I could afford to replace the timing. During this time (a few months) the motor on my wife's CX-7 used all the oil between changes and blew the motor. I was able to get it up to my dealer and they told me it only had a quart of oil in it. At the time I immediately did some research on this forum and thought this had to be her turbo. Mazda knew about it through the TSB that was issued to them but had never warned us about any of this and had we known we would have watched the oil far more closely and may have caught this before the motor imploded. Mazda quoted us $10K to replace it and even offered to let us trade it in for a newer model...these fuckers have a nerve. We took it up a few levels in Mazda and wound up talking to the VP of North American sales. They eventually agreed to repair it for $3,800. Shortly after that I took mine to the dealer to get the timing replaced (since none of my local mechanics would touch it). They had quoted me $1,300 to do it. When I got the bill it was almost $1,900 and they denied ever quoting me $1,300. I didn't have it in writing but eventually persuaded them I was telling the truth. They replaced the timing and during the course of this they washed the engine, soaking one of the coilpacks. When I picked it up I got multiple misfires, clouds of smoke out the back and the CEL came on. I drove it straight back, put the keys on the counter in the service department and just walked out without saying anything. They called me the following day to apologize and tell me it was ready, they had dried out the coilpack and reset the CEL. I drove it home and again the CEL came on but no misfires. It went off on its own a couple of days later. Since then my car has been getting through a quart of oil every two days, looks like the replacement turbo has gone the way of the original but at 135K I am out of warranty. Mazda have quoted me $1,200 for the turbo and $1,300 for the labor. I bought a rebuilt one (in this forum) for $325 and will put it in myself....which is another story entirely. Needless to say, next time I'm buying something else. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My warranty went up so I had no choice. Right on man, you can never go wrong doing it yourself. Pretty easy swap.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Anyone know where in the workshop manual I could find some additional instructions? I tried looking for it and couldn't find anything related. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I had a look once before, I don't think this is in there. In all honesty, read the how to and you won't need the manual. A couple of things to remember. Support the tranny when unbolting the mount. One of the cables you will have to wrestle off but with some force it will happen. The small plastic adapter on the end of one of the cables, don't drop it into the tranny. Put the seal in the right way up. Other than that, this is one of the easier DIY jobs. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hmm alright. I will use the two most recent how to guides for instructions and heed those tips. Thanks! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I just reviewed the trans/pto service manual to see if it's worth it to post screenshots. It's not. The how-to here is 10 times more detailed & helpful than the manual. This how-to has also been used & vetted several times, so you should be fine
__________________ Was a Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop Now in a BMW 135i - double the turbos, double the fun! E82.N54 2009 / BSM / A/T / Drop-in / PR CP / Berk Street / MHD / xHP 340hp / 371tq |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score What more could you possibly want, this write up is amazing? sent from god
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Eh always safer to have more guidance/instructions. I agree that this thread and the other are quite helpful as has been Mandinca. I will be working on this next weekend. |
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__________________ "Stockish" Black Mica 2010 MS3 Genpu Pickles Tune in progress |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Never been in a situation where you didn't know what you were doing and had to make sure it went right then @dubunderpar; Stop being a tit. |
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And a tit, really?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @dubunderpar; I'm not offended, not at all. He's obviously a noob who needs reassuring, which is fine. The write up is perfect but not all perfect write up's work out that way. I can attest to that since I just spent all weekend removing my turbo only to get to the oil drain bolts and not be able to get them off. I had to rebuild it all without actually switching the turbo just because of two bolts. Yeah, I was pissed. And...I still have a turbo that single handedly supports Halvoline. Hah, maybe a tit was a bit strong. Caught me at a bad moment. Apologies. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score lolz- the most special two 8mm bolts on the entire planet. Bastards. Still the only time I wish I had a Speed3 instead......
__________________ Was a Mazdaspeed6 GT #3476 TiGray slicktop Now in a BMW 135i - double the turbos, double the fun! E82.N54 2009 / BSM / A/T / Drop-in / PR CP / Berk Street / MHD / xHP 340hp / 371tq |
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