HOW-TO: shaft pivot seal replaced

[Mandinca]

Yes indeed. That transfer case being in the way is all that stopped me. I've since heard that it's possible to get to the bolts if you remove the plastic cowl under the bulkhead and use a stubby ratchet with a short extension. I have someone coming to help with that hopefully. By the time I'm done pulling everything off I'm just about toast mentally and not in the mood to F around with those bolts. There's a good chance I'll just unbolt it from the block but that makes me nervous...imagine shearing one of those...

Add to that I just had to drop $700 for a replacement radiator (incl labor).
A word of advice, if you ever need one in a MS6 make sure the one you order is definitely the correct one. Mine showed up with the wrong fittings for the fans and a hose connection missing. Online it specifically said it was for the 6, I ended up ordering it from a dealer. FML.

[himurax13]

Sent via stockish Black Mica Pu

[Matrix311]

So how many total bolts are there that need to be removed? I'm doing this on my MS3. Just having a hard time getting it to come out so i must be missing one. If anyone could chime in on the total amount of bolts that need to be removed! Thanks

[6Y MAZDA]

Originally Posted by Matrix311 So how many total bolts are there that need to be removed? I'm doing this on my MS3. Just having a hard time getting it to come out so i must be missing one. If anyone could chime in on the total amount of bolts that need to be removed! Thanks

The 5 bolts on the top plate. And the OP says theres one bolt near the front of the transmission (lined up with the shaft). I undid those 6 bolts and got it out.

[Mandinca]

I thought there were only 4 bolts on the top plate plus the one on the front....anyhow, like that ^^^

[6Y MAZDA]

Originally Posted by Mandinca I thought there were only 4 bolts on the top plate plus the one on the front....anyhow, like that ^^^

yes there are 4 on the plate itself, but theres one more bolt attached to the shift cable swivel that attaches to the plate. I couldnt get it out of the way so i just removed it.

[XsillyputtyX]

has anyone compared that toyota seal with the mazda seal? i dont care about the price difference. but just wondering about the material used for each.

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by 6Y MAZDA yes there are 4 on the plate itself, but theres one more bolt attached to the shift cable swivel that attaches to the plate. I couldnt get it out of the way so i just removed it.

Of course, it's been a while since I did mine. Your pic also shows the extra bolt which must be removed, down behind the wire.
Also worth mentioning, use some gasket sealant on the top plate when putting it back together, I didn't at first and it leaked.

[AKmac11]

Im having a hell of a time getting this assembly back in. Does the bearing below the bolt on the front of the trans have to come out? Because with it in, the assembly seems to be getting stuck right before the shaft goes into the hole. Full homo. If I push the shift plate towards the firewall it drops right in but then the linkage hits the shift plate. Any advice would be great. Tried to attach pics, but wouldn't upload for some reason.

[Mandinca]

The bearing doersn't need to come out. It can be a bit of a bitch to get the assembly back in as everything has to be lined up correctly. As far as I can remember you can't actually put it in wrong.
The bolt on the front of the transmission should come out, that will help.
Line the assembly up in your hand, then, what I did was to reach down into the transmission and line the insides up by hand as well. Once you get it right it will take a bit of wiggling to get it in but it will go. Hope this helps.

[AKmac11]

I backed the bearing out enough to drop the assy. the correct way, but when I tighten it back up, it locks the gear box. Like, the thing wont move at all.

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by AKmac11 I backed the bearing out enough to drop the assy. the correct way, but when I tighten it back up, it locks the gear box. Like, the thing wont move at all.

When you say "backed the bearing out" what do you mean, what bearing ?
IIRC the shaft assembly has a cotter pin that has to come out before you can remove the seal. When you put the assembly back together is there any way you could have re-assembled it incorrectly ?

[AKmac11]

Theres 4 ball bearings in the housing. The one on the front of the trans is the one that seems to be making contact with the assembly. I removed the bearing and inspected it. It just threads into the housing and its spring loaded. Theres a shaft and a collar protecting the ball bearing and the spring allows it to move in and out. Wish I could upload pics.

I'm very confident I assembled it. I removed the roll pin thinking maybe I had done it wrong, and when I but it back together it just looked and felt wrong. So I put it back the original way I had it.

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by AKmac11 Theres 4 ball bearings in the housing. The one on the front of the trans is the one that seems to be making contact with the assembly. I removed the bearing and inspected it. It just threads into the housing and its spring loaded. Theres a shaft and a collar protecting the ball bearing and the spring allows it to move in and out. Wish I could upload pics. I'm very confident I assembled it. I removed the roll pin thinking maybe I had done it wrong, and when I but it back together it just looked and felt wrong. So I put it back the original way I had it.

What exactly is stopping the assembly from dropping all teh way downthe hole or are you saying that it does drop all the way in but the tranny is locked when you do ?
Just wondering, do you have the small plastic adapter that attaches to one of the cables ?

[6Y MAZDA]

I had a similar problem when i did mine. Could not get it to go in for the longest time. took it apart/back together like 3 or 4 times before i realized one important thing...

(don't mind the circled pin...i took this pic from the OP) make sure the guide on the left side of the picture is lined up and locked into the other piece as pictured. (slides in like a door chain lock) When i put mine back together, i did not realize those pieces needed to be lined up and locked as one. I left them separate and that was my problem.

[AKmac11]

If the bearing is in the housing it wont drop in. When I removed it, it sat flush but once I put the bearing in the housing, it locked up. I tried moving the shift plate and there is no wiggle room.

thanks 6Y, I will double check that.

[Matrix311]

Its a bitch but just play with it and it will fall into place.

[Mandinca]

Success AKMac ?

[btstarcher]

This whole process took me less than an hour. The only PITA was the cotter pin.

[AKmac11]

Originally Posted by Mandinca Success AKMac ?

Sorry for the late reply. Unfortunately, no success. Actually, total fuckin fail to be honest. I just couldn't get the damn thing in. Accepted my loses like a bitch and took to the dealer. The tech was telling me you have to have it at this angle, and blah blah fuck off. I was so pissed. I literally wanted to take a shit in that hole the assembly goes in and then light the car on fire.

[RogerH]

Thanks so much for this! The local dealer told me they had to pull the trans to do this. I knew they didn't because I've replaced this seal on cable shifted VW's I've owned. this has happened to me twice now. first time it was covered under extended warranty. now its leaking again and I'm going to do it when I replace the trans mount on my car.

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by RogerH Thanks so much for this! The local dealer told me they had to pull the trans to do this. I knew they didn't because I've replaced this seal on cable shifted VW's I've owned. this has happened to me twice now. first time it was covered under extended warranty. now its leaking again and I'm going to do it when I replace the trans mount on my car.

Fucking dealers.

[xj-boonie]

The dealer just called me - said our 06 Speed6 is leaking out the sifter seal, and it's $1700 to replace. Reading through this thread it looks pretty straight forward to do it. I haven't done much work on our Speed6, but I have completely swapped out the suspension on our Jeeps (along with cooling system, header, motor mounts, axles, etc.) so I should have the skills to do this and save myself some $$, right?

[Matrix311]

Originally Posted by xj-boonie The dealer just called me - said our 06 Speed6 is leaking out the sifter seal, and it's $1700 to replace. Reading through this thread it looks pretty straight forward to do it. I haven't done much work on our Speed6, but I have completely swapped out the suspension on our Jeeps (along with cooling system, header, motor mounts, axles, etc.) so I should have the skills to do this and save myself some $$, right?

Um yes this is a cake job. You could fly me out to where you live and wine and dine me to replace that seal for less then that ass raping quote from the dealer.

Just order the parts which is like $6 and set an hour a side and hammer it out yourself.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[xj-boonie]

Originally Posted by Matrix311 Um yes this is a cake job. You could fly me out to where you live and wine and dine me to replace that seal for less then that ass raping quote from the dealer. Just order the parts which is like $6 and set an hour a side and hammer it out yourself. Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

Where did you get the seal from?

I just called back to confirm, and they are telling me I need to replace the whole shfter assembly - it's a non-servicable item.... I think I know what I'm doing this weekend...

Of course these are the same people who told me that I needed to replace the EGR valve for $750 when the engine was throwing a cyl #1 missfire and a new coil pack fixed it up....

[almcbs]

Pretty easy job just did it yesterday, took 2-3 hours, mainly because i was taking my time and took a couple beer breaks. Just follow this how-to and you will be fine

you can get it from the dealer, cost 6-8 depending on the area you live in

[Matrix311]

Originally Posted by xj-boonie Where did you get the seal from? I just called back to confirm, and they are telling me I need to replace the whole shfter assembly - it's a non-servicable item.... I think I know what I'm doing this weekend... Of course these are the same people who told me that I needed to replace the EGR valve for $750 when the engine was throwing a cyl #1 missfire and a new coil pack fixed it up....

Bought it from a local dealer. You have proof from this thread that you can replace just the seal and not the entire assembly. Seal should be under $10

Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

[xj-boonie]

Originally Posted by Matrix311 Bought it from a local dealer. You have proof from this thread that you can replace just the seal and not the entire assembly. Seal should be under $10 Sent from my SCH-I535 using Tapatalk

I'll see if their parts department can get it for me.

Should be ok to drive the car till sunday when I can tackle this, right?

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by xj-boonie The dealer just called me - said our 06 Speed6 is leaking out the sifter seal, and it's $1700 to replace. Reading through this thread it looks pretty straight forward to do it. I haven't done much work on our Speed6, but I have completely swapped out the suspension on our Jeeps (along with cooling system, header, motor mounts, axles, etc.) so I should have the skills to do this and save myself some $$, right?

I repeat.....fucking dealers.

No special tools required, hardest part I found was undoing the bolt on the transmission engine mount due to the tools at the dealer tightening it up to about 500 foot pounds. Assholes.
Other than that it's cake. Really. 3 hours max.

1) don't drop anything down the hole once the top plate is removed
2) undo the bolt in the front of the transmission or the assembly won't come out
3) you might have to jiggle the assembly to get it back in, make sure it's all lined up
4) use metal gasket sealer on the top plate or it will leak - ask me how I know.

[6Y MAZDA]

i'm pretty sure the part number is listed in the OP, or somewhere on page 1

[Matrix311]

Originally Posted by xj-boonie I'll see if their parts department can get it for me. Should be ok to drive the car till sunday when I can tackle this, right?

Ya man for sure. Mine was probably leaking for a good 6 months or more before I noticed it was leaking. Keep on truckin and you'll be fine until its replaced.

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by 6Y MAZDA i'm pretty sure the part number is listed in the OP, or somewhere on page 1

MANUAL TRANSMISSION CHANGE CONTROL SYSTEM. Fits: 2006 Mazda MazdaSpeed6 | Jim Ellis Mazda

17131 SEAL, OIL
Required: 001. $6.15 A60117131

[xj-boonie]

Just ordered the part from the dealer (didn't have it in stock - 2-3 days for them to get it) $8.80...

[shnouz]

Originally Posted by jrzy ms6 ok so i noticed trans fluid leaking and traced it to the rubber boot on the pressure plate on top of the trans. found some helpful threads to help pinpoint it but no "how to's" so hope this helps cause the dealer charges BUKU dollars to fix (yea what else is new). i'll start by saying that i consider myself a noob under the hood but i can figure stuff out. so feel free to chime in cause i cant name all the parts involved or dont know if there is a easier way to do it. all i can tell u is that this is what i did, everything works and best of all no more leaky leaks. the seal from the dealer was only $6.50 part # A60117131 1. remove the air box for the intake (i'm all stock) and the battery, battery tray. under this rubber boot is the seal. will be fluid all over this area http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...1&d=1339612652 2. disconnect the clutch cables. i used needle nose pliers to pop off the top one the other is connected to a bracket on the plate that has to come off anyway so i just pulled out the two 12mm bolts holding it http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...1&d=1339613359 3. remove the motor mount. before you do this you must set the front on jack stands and support the engine from under with a floor jack to release tension on the motor mount bolt. (i'm on h&r's so i had to jack it from the side and slide a old rim with a box on top under the trans to support it.... had no jack stands). at that point remove the bolt going thru the chassis(on top in pic) 18 mm i think and be sure not to lose the nut on the back side of the mount. then the other bolt going into the trans http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...1&d=1339613359 2nd bolt going into trans, its under the clutch cables http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...1&d=1339613359 3rd bolt going into trans, and the nut from the chassis bolt that u already dropped into the engine bay. mount should come right off now http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...1&d=1339613359 4.pull the rest of the 12mm bolts out of the plate and break the seal holding it to the trans (i used a big flat head screw driver) 5. ok i'm not 100% sure this bolt had to come out but the shaft was fighting me to come out and seemed to come alot easier when i did. its located on the front of the trans and is lined up perfectly with the shaft. once it was out i was able to wiggle the shaft out (no homo) http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...1&d=1339613359 shaft out http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...1&d=1339613359 6. remove cotter pin, a punch is perfect if you have one. i dont so i used a t25 torx driver and a hammer to tap it out. http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...1&d=1339613359 7. once the pin is out slide it off. i think it only goes back on one way but be sur to keep an eye on how it came apart once thats off the plate slides right off, the seal is right on top. put on the new one and get her back together http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...1&d=1339613359 Edit: some have popped off the shifter cable and had a small clip left on the plate. be careful not to lose it and set it aside for reassemble. Also clean off the old sealant from the plate and trans and reseal with gasket sealant.

Just want to say thanks for the excellent write up. Did this about 6 months ago after the dealer telling me I had to replace the whole assembly. Quoted $1400 including labor. Appreciate the $6 alternate route.

[ginger6ninja9]

I'm gonna have to jump on replacing mine soon. I'm pissed because my dealer warranty expired before I found the problem. You can't see it leaking with the stock airbox on. So when I put my Cobb short ram on I found it.

[ginger6ninja9]

Is there any way to check transmission fluid levels? I've looked all over for a dipstick but I can't find one.

[Mandinca]

The fill plug is a 23 or 24 mm on the front of the tranny. Pull the plug and fill until it starts pouring out of the fill hole. When it stops pouring out your at the right level. There is no dipstick.

[ginger6ninja9]

Originally Posted by Mandinca The fill plug is a 23 or 24 mm on the front of the tranny. Pull the plug and fill until it starts pouring out of the fill hole. When it stops pouring out your at the right level. There is no dipstick.

Cool man. Thank you for that nifty little bit of information.

[Boosted Beluga]

@Koke382;

[guitarcal]

Hi all,
My dad and I attempted to replace this seal earlier today. Our hope was to pull the shaft by loosening the motor mount bolts and lowering the transmission. Unfortunately, we were unable to loosen the two nuts mentioned in the original post:

2nd bolt going into trans, its under the clutch cables http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...1&d=1339613359 3rd bolt going into trans, and the nut from the chassis bolt that u already dropped into the engine bay. mount should come right off now http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...1&d=1339613359

We tried loosening with an air impact gun. If there was more room, we probably could have removed using a cheater bar.

Has anyone else here ran into the same issue?