The Official MS6 Suspension Thread

[cowboyup31078]

What about Toxico shocks and TENZOR springs?

[dagrimey1]

Check this copy and paste job
Officiella tråden om fjädring till 6 MPS (Page 1) - FAAAQ - Mazdaspeed.se

[RWDAddict]

Just put on some TEIN SS CoilOvers on my MS6 and they are GREAT!!! Super smooth even with nearly bald tires. Once I get some tires and an alignment it will only get better. I can't wait until I can get them on a track and put the settings harder.

[DickFitzwell]

Originally Posted by RWDAddict Just put on some TEIN SS CoilOvers on my MS6 and they are GREAT!!! Super smooth even with nearly bald tires. Once I get some tires and an alignment it will only get better. I can't wait until I can get them on a track and put the settings harder.

Smooth really? I ran a set on a couple different cars, neither of which were a 6, but they never felt "smooth". I love my H&R CO though

Sent from surveillance van #2

[DickFitzwell]

H&R CO:


Sent from surveillance van #2

[RWDAddict]

I have them at their max height, maybe dropped .75 from stock. Also on the softest setting as i commute the car. I'll see how harsh they get when I crank them up when I track the car.

[DickFitzwell]

Originally Posted by RWDAddict I have them at their max height, maybe dropped .75 from stock. Also on the softest setting as i commute the car. I'll see how harsh they get when I crank them up when I track the car.

Haha, I ran those full force, hence the harshness I was used to.

Sent from surveillance van #2

[RWDAddict]

No need for that unless you're on the track, harder on the car too.

[DickFitzwell]

Originally Posted by RWDAddict No need for that unless you're on the track, harder on the car too.

Yea, it was an s14 and a civic so wtf did I care!

Sent from surveillance van #2

[paveltol]

BLITZ offers the coilover kit as well: http://www.blitzpowerusa.com/applica...tions_2011.pdf

[We Are Ninja]

I recently lowered the MS6 with H&R coilovers. They're firmer than stock, but they're still softer than I'd like; especially in the rear. In the coilovers' defense, I also upgraded wheels and tires. Wheel size went from 7 to 8.5 inches wheels and tire width grew from 215mm to 245mm. From what I understand, the change in tire size leads to a notable increase in scrub radius which effectively softens the spring rates... I also installed Corksport F/R swaybars in an effort to further increase roll stiffness, but there's still more roll than I'd like. It's only been a couple hundred miles or so, I don't know if feel will change once they get some more miles on them. That said' I also didn't go crazy low; I abhor the hellaflush movement. The MS6 doesn't have a lot of suspension travel and I'd like to retain at least some of it...:

BEFORE:



AFTER (and covered in dirt):

[dubunderpar]

How much did the sways help?

sent from god

[We Are Ninja]

It's difficult to say since I installed both at once; but there's a definite decrease in body roll and increase in responsiveness. Exiting turns, the body rights itself and stabilizes sooner than it used to (if that makes sense).

[KevinK2]

Originally Posted by We Are Ninja From what I understand, the change in tire size leads to a notable increase in scrub radius which effectively softens the spring rates... I also installed Corksport F/R swaybars in an effort to further increase roll stiffness, but there's still more roll than I'd like....

The change in scrub radius has no significant effect on spring rate at the wheel, unless there is a big change in track width.

Corksport, imho, is very misleading in their advertising, including the video about their front sway bar. Among other errors, they say the rear bar is 70% stiffer vs OEM .... it's 100% stiffer, = 2X .

You do have limited options regarding bars. OEM ... Corksport :

Front - 24mm ... 28.5mm ( exact same dia as RB bar for MS6 & M6)
Rear -- 23mm ... 25mm

The increase in rate is based on the (new / old )^4 , ie the ratio of diameters to the 4th power. So the increase in roll stiffness is the most up front, with the bigger change in dia:

Front 2.0X increase
Rear 1.4X increase

In corksports video, they suggest they designed the front bat to match the rear, and reduce understeer. This bar set would increase understeer, but quicken turn-in. Not good to be that wrong.

To have a balanced CS set, the rear would have to be 27mm or more. The best you could do in the rear is go with Corksport 25mm REAR bar, and modify the ends (like the whiteline adjustable rear) for a "stiffer" hole that would give stiffness like a ~26mm bar. The mod is easy, the hard part is seeing if bar end space permits this extra hole, and the endlinks move freely. Another aproach to the understeer (in a steady long corner) is find OEM type black elastomer pivot bushings for the FRONT bar. These soften the stiffness, and I have done this with success on a tracked car.

Autoexec makes expensive bars that are always just 1mm bigger than OEM ... go figure.

As far as still too much body roll, your only option is to get stiffer coilovers. Unless you track the car, enjoy your nice set-up. Some body roll is needed for a street car.

10-14 UPDATE:

Steeda offers a 26 mm front bar for the Fusion and M6. Noting that Racing Beat offers a 28.5mm bar for the M6 and MS6, it is likely that the 26mm front Steeda will fit.

Corksport no longer offers the 25mm rear bar, so the 24mm WL is the stiffest, and you can add 1 mm to estimate the bar on the stiff setting (+1mm), so you effectively have a 25mm Rear bar.

Looking at the % increases again, vs oem, for the 26mm up front, and the "25mm" WL:

Front 1.4X increase
Rear 1.4X increase

Some leg work required to verify the fit of the 26mm steeda bar.

.

[dot584]

Ya at least for the 6 its often better to just increase spring rate and leave the bars alone. Many cars can run with no front roll bar, Fat Cat Motorsports tunes some cars this way. Increase rear spring rate and maybe the roll bar in the back and understeer is gone.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk

[KevinK2]

Good points. I forgot the simple option of NOT installing the huge front bar that gives you lower body roll and fast turn in, but also lots of understeer. The turn-in can be improved by adjusting the front shocks.

I have actually removed a bar's endlink to cure handling problems of others at the track. It was the rear bar link that I did for George Alderman (google), who could not comlete and autox run without spinning out. And the front link of a boxy Civic that had horrific understeer when I tested it. We went to a road course and his civic leaned like it would turn over, but the trained driver said it was great, no understeer.

One option to bump up the rear roll stiffness is, if possible, have a shop make a 2nd sway bar assembly for the rear, that hangs low under the chassis, and does not have the big loop in it. If I could design and build one, I' sure one of the MS6 vendors could do it too.

Unfortunately, regarding the guy that has HKS street CO's, rear spring changes are not likely. Even BC has std race springs up front, and possibly a stiffer rear spring option.

.

[KevinK2]

Originally Posted by aviator79 I have BCs. Installed myself, measured with fingers. Came out OK, but set to full stiff and over every bump was click, click click. Couldn't figure it out. Finally just set to full soft and most of the clicking went away. I assume is is the valves I head. So now I have body roll again, but rides better and is about 1/2 or so lower. Can be turned to full stiff again easy too. But still not super happy with BCs. Would like to have a better strut but had to be adjustable so I will probably keep them as I have no money for that shit. Got them for cheap (under $700) back in the good old days with bing.com cash back on ebay. So at least I didn’t spend too much on them. However, add in the $1000+ I spend on the HSDs before that and it adds up.

First, you do not adjust the shocks to full stiff to reduce roll .... I'm sure it will click and clack while trying to prevent normal wheel travel. And there is not just full soft and full hard. You said you wanted adjustable shocks, so venture away from full soft and try 1/4 hard 1/2 hard, etc. Koni warns NOT to set the shocks to full stiff, and the shock dyno plots show why ..... lock-up.

The front springs are listed at 660 lb/in, and 440 at the rear. Note the K-sport race c/o's for the M6 are 784 lb/in up front, and 207 at the rear. BC has many optional springs for the front ). But perhaps just a few options for the tapered rear springs ... give them a call.


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[aviator79]

Originally Posted by KevinK2 First, you do not adjust the shocks to full stiff to reduce roll .... I'm sure it will click and clack while trying to prevent normal wheel travel. And there is not just full soft and full hard. You said you wanted adjustable shocks, so venture away from full soft and try 1/4 hard 1/2 hard, etc. Koni warns NOT to set the shocks to full stiff, and the shock dyno plots show why ..... lock-up. The front springs are listed at 660 lb/in, and 440 at the rear. Note the K-sport race c/o's for the M6 are 784 lb/in up front, and 207 at the rear. BC has many optional springs for the front (I was tech-ing trying to save the original MS6 group buy disaster). But perhaps just a few for the tapered rear springs ... give them a call.

Ya, I remember you from M6club.

I dont know why I posted that as I dont think I ever had them set to full hard, if I did I know I changed it to right about in the middle for front and rear. Still got horrible clicking noises like something was loose so set to full soft and drove that way for a while. Less noises but horrible ride as I would bottom shock out over a dip (think I-84 Waterbury). Recently set them back to right about in the middle and the ride is better. At speed on highway I get no noise. On back roads I get noises over certain bumps from the front. ON bad roads it is like clickity clack click click click, constantly and drives me nuts. Ive checked everything many times and cannot figure out what it is. Ive asked others and no one seems to have this problem.

I wish I had tried the HSDs as I think they were better quality than the BCs. They should have worked fine once we got the new hats but who knows... I sold mine for like $500 shipped on ebay so wasnt a total loss.

I also bought a set of KW Coilovers but had to sell them before I could try them out.

I really dont think the noise is from the valves cause why am I the only one with this problem. It seems to occur at lower speeds from a down up motion. But cant be due to spring preload as they are preloaded even when the car is jacked up. It would make sense if it was due to them being loose on the top hats but they are not. I have replaced the front endlinks and no changes. Maybe stabilizer bar mounts on subframe, maybe steering rack...IDK. Hopefully someday I can figure it out before I die.

[KevinK2]

Try to determine if it's the right or left, like for a test set one side 1/2 hard, the other full soft. Then repeat in reverse. BC may be willing to send a replacement strut at cost.

Just to verify, when you set the ride height, you used the nut at the bottom, and not the upper 2 nuts that set the preload, right? With the car up on jacks and the suspension at full droop, the springs should not be loose.


On that original HSD group buy (NOT BC as I said before), some members specified the RPM spring rates, and HSD said they cold supply them. But instead of using long travel struts, they used track struts with short travel, and put short springs in with the RPM rates. When everyone bottomed out, I got involved and tried longer springs (10" vs 8") in desperation, but that could not fix a bad design. I had sugested selling them to M6 owners, preferably the 4 cylinder models.

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[Caldazar]

Can someone add a clear marker for each listing so we can see if its specifically for a Speed or regular 6?

sorry if I missed it.

[KevinK2]

This was my mistake, I had thought the MS6 was among the applications listed for this Steeda bar. It was not. But it may work, based on a similar RB front bar that fits the M6 and the MS6.

A marker would not have helped.

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[N!NJA]

06-07 Mazdaspeed6 ISC Suspension Coilovers: JSC Speed

Sorry I have to make a quick post so I didn't check if these were on here

[Caldazar]

can't connect to db

all it says when I click that link

[KevinK2]

link worked for me,

06-07 Mazdaspeed6 ISC Suspension Coilovers

The new ISC N1 Coilovers offer a sporty feel that can be taken to the track but driven on the street comfortably everyday. With 32 way adjustable dampening that will operate smoothly on all road surfaces, they also include precise control dump valves, expansion and suppression of the shock adjustments. Made with highly rigid steel piston rods that will meet race/sport standards, the N1 coilovers are very durable and made from SAE9254 steel construction that has been tested over half a million times with less than five percent deformation. A single large cylinder and piston design will advance stability on and off the track, held by a T6061 aluminum bracket specially anodized to prevent corrosion and rust. Upgraded Thrust Bearing Kit are included on all N1 ISC coilovers to eliminate the chance of the normal spring bind that you would get on most aftermarket coilovers.

If you are looking for a good coilover that has micro adjustability, SO9001: 2000R Certified, ARTC Certified, five year warranty, completely rebuildable and the capability of going three inches lower than stock this is that coilover you have been looking for. All ISC Suspension products are made in-house at the ISC's New Hampshire location and also hand assembled. ISC's number one goal is to have the best customer service in the industry.


Features and Specs:
Mounts: (F) Rubber (R) Rubber
Spring Rates: (F) 12kg/mm (R) 6kg/mm
Fixed cup/locking collar design
Rubber inserts keep the noise at a minimum.
32 levels of damping force adjustment (compression/rebound)
Fully threaded shock body for height adjustment
Clicking adjustment knobs for added tactile feedback
Fully rebuildable
5 year warranty against manufacturer defect
Free Shipping
FITMENT:
Mazdaspeed6 2006-2007

Description Part # MSRP Price Inventory
N1 Coilovers M107B $940.50 $855.00 Usually ships in 3-5 days


--> with that much front bias in spring rate, likely designed for hard core circuit racing, with little dive under hard braking.

Tel: 215.489.2820 give them a call !


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[Caldazar]

yep, its working now! thanx for posting it, I will be needing something like this soon.

[phate]

For anyone looking for more info about the MS6 suspension - actual measurements and whatnot, geometry, DIY coilovers, etc - this is my thread detailing that info:

MS6 Suspension Data & DIY Bilstein Coilovers

[denvemolorado]

Originally Posted by JMEngineer Fortune Auto is no longer an option. Apparently there wasn't much interest from our platform and someone (probably a pu owner) pissed them off with too many stupid questions so they dropped the 3 and 6 completely.

I am new to the forums and just thought I would let everyone know that I ordered and installed a set of Fortune Auto 500 series coilovers for the MS6. So far, I really like them. Just FYI.

[IMG][/IMG]

[phate]

Are the ends of those rear springs the same size? Could you take pics of each end?

[denvemolorado]

Originally Posted by phate Are the ends of those rear springs the same size? Could you take pics of each end?

No, the spring is tapered. They are on my car now, but I can try to get a better picture this weekend for you.

[JD79Speed6]

Doesn't look like the Corksport MS6 springs have been mentioned on this thread, so here is what they look like on stock wheels. The ride is nice, not harsh. Serves well for a bar hopper, havent's taken it to the track yet. I like the look.

[KevinK2]

1.5 and 1.6R drop. Did they say what % increase in stiffness? The Installation pages showed the rear bump cushion removed, is that what you did?

It appears CS no longer carries the big 25mm rear bar. Too bad, with an extra hole added, it would be the stiffest bar available.

Car looks really nice .

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[phate]

Originally Posted by KevinK2 1.5 and 1.6R drop. Did they say what % increase in stiffness? The Installation pages showed the rear bump cushion removed, is that what you did? It appears CS no longer carries the big 25mm rear bar. Too bad, with an extra hole added, it would be the stiffest bar available. Car looks really nice . .

MS6 Corksport Springs... Who has installed them?

We've been talking about the cs springs recently.

[JD79Speed6]

Originally Posted by phate MS6 Corksport Springs... Who has installed them? - Mazdaspeed Forums We've been talking about the cs springs recently.

You are right, my mistake.

[JD79Speed6]

Originally Posted by KevinK2 1.5 and 1.6R drop. Did they say what % increase in stiffness? The Installation pages showed the rear bump cushion removed, is that what you did? It appears CS no longer carries the big 25mm rear bar. Too bad, with an extra hole added, it would be the stiffest bar available. Car looks really nice . .

I do not recall CS indicating what the % increase was, it just seems slightly stiffer than stock. We did not remove the rear bump cusion.

And thanks, I really like it too.

[dale_gribble]

Ok, here's a mystery that would be a good addition for this page. What is the MAZDA PN for the lower front spring isolators? Similar to the gray things below that wrap around the lower coil of the spring to prevent metal to metal at the base? I can't find the PN ANYWHERE.

I can't find the PN anywhere.

[phate]

Doesn't look to be a separate part. Probably come on the spring when new.

[SpecialK]

Slightly random post, but by demand for control arm alternatives i have dug into parts cross compatibility with a local mazda parts technician and this is what i have found.

2006 mazda 6 vs 2006 ms6 suspension part number comparison

Make sure arms come from a 06 mazda6 2.3L

Drivers side:
Front Upper- Same
Front Lower Rearward: Should 90% sure
Front Lower Frontward: Same
Tierod-
Inner: Same
Outer: Same
Rear Upper: Same
Rear Lower: No Info Available
Rear Lateral Link: Different


Passengers Side:
Front Upper- Same
Front Lower Rearward: Should 90% sure
Front Lower Frontward: Same
Tierod-
Inner: Same
Outer: Same
Rear Upper: Same
Rear Lower: No Info Available
Rear Lateral Link: Different

End links:
Front: Different
Rear: Different

Hope this helps someone.

[KevinK2]

Nice work. On those parts that have unknown compatibility, rockauto or Mazda may have prices listed, and if they are exactly the same for both versions, there is better than 50% chance that they are the same part.

.

[aviator79]

koni rears are not adjustable are they? I mayb be blind but think the post is wring that says they are adjustable.

[HBspeed]

Has anyone replaced there rear sway bar? Or is it just the front that is commonly replaced?