Vampire Prostitute

[Tomas]

FWD 2007 CX-7
189K miles
bought it for $3200.

Starting off with a drop in build with Pu pistons and Manley Rods. Then I'll use an old ass MS6 K04. We'll see what I do next.







Some gum but not too bad.

[SofaKingAwesome]

Been waiting for someone to get weird on one of these, interested to see where it goes!

[Tomas]

There's already two people doing crazy shit on these around here.
But I guess I can take credit for being the first Murican doing one. At least here.

Seen the light and modding CX7 for more power

Big turbo build CX-7 :P

[TiGraySpeed6]

Well this should be fun

[torquemaniac]

Dont waste your time with the MS6 K04...you will be disappointed

[Tomas]

I can always go bigger.

[Tomas]

Making slow progress.
Fucked up VVT looks fucked.
Spring and some shards were left in the oil pick up tube. Replacing with a PPT unit I still have laying around.



Pistons were a lil caked up which is ok for a 185K engine. Con rod bearings looked perfect.



I am weak so my 1/2" breaker bar and little hands weren't able to loosen some of the head studs. In spite of said muscular weakness I am prepared for contingencies and happily own a 3/4" mammoth breaker bar which was taken out of hibernation solely for this task. I almost never get to use this most excellent apparatus of mechanical beauty. It is a true manly man tool and feeling it in one's hands revitalizes much needed testosterone depletion which is regrettably occurring at an increasingly rapid rate lately.

YouTube Short

YouTube Short

Once the Manley rods and pu pistons were in the rest was pretty standard.





Oh and although this is more of a low cost low expecation build I did take the time to install a triple-check-valve-blowby-evacuation-catch-can.



Ah yes and for engine brake in I slapped a rare earth magnet to the oil pan plug. Let's see if it catches some shit.

[WetzMS3]

Looks super ghey.

Much approval.

[torquemaniac]

Its like watching Bob Ross rebuilding an engine...just like a breeze

Eager to see what the magnet will catch during the breakin...and how are you gonna do the breakin (interested to know your method since I will replace the pistons soon)

[Tomas]

For engine brake in I will use cheap mineral oil for the first 400 miles or so. As far as driving I'll just do a few set-gear accelerations and deceleration in progressively higher RPMs. Nothing too fancy schmancy.

[torquemaniac]

Originally Posted by Tomas For engine brake in I will use cheap mineral oil for the first 400 miles or so. As far as driving I'll just do a few set-gear accelerations and deceleration in progressively higher RPMs. Nothing too fancy schmancy.

Will you limit boost?

I know you should not be baby the car when doing the break-in, but the methods are endless...the only common point of all the methods I have read about, is to first change the oil at the 20 miles mark...

I am machining a special tool to be able to hone/deglaze the cylinder with the engine still in the car (the tool is to contain the nasty stuff from the hone...just to be sure I dont do the same mistake as @Dano; )...I want the freakin ring to seal perfectly, so I will do everything necessary to get the job right...that includes the break-in method

[Dano]

in 2 see said tool. not doubting your skilz by any means but that will be a challenge

[torquemaniac]

Originally Posted by Dano in 2 see said tool. not doubting your skilz by any means but that will be a challenge

Here is said tool..



The tool will be slided in the cylinder and hopefully rest on the bottom of the cylinder (there is a small step on the casting after the cylinder sleeve...if my estimation are of, some shim will be used to rest the honing cap on the crank)

The tool is like a piston with o-ring...the top part of the tool is just for sliding the cap smoothly to the bottom of the cylinder

The top of the engine block will be covered by a kind of torque plate to prevent stuff from getting in the block coolant and oil ports

After honing/deglazing, the cylinder bore will be cleaned before removal of the honing cap

About 1/2 inch of the cylinder bore wont be honed/deglazed at the bottom, but this wont matters because the ring dont go that low

Wish I didnt have to go throught that shit, but thats what happens when you do stupid tuning

[Dano]

Originally Posted by Tomas I can always go bigger.

I have a lightly used GT28 sitting over here...hum..could I let it go though

[sh4d0w]

Tap tap tap tap tap tap

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by torquemaniac Here is said tool.. he tool will be slided in the cylinder and hopefully rest on the bottom of the cylinder (there is a small step on the casting after the cylinder sleeve...if my estimation are of, some shim will be used to rest the honing cap on the crank) The tool is like a piston with o-ring...the top part of the tool is just for sliding the cap smoothly to the bottom of the cylinder The top of the engine block will be covered by a kind of torque plate to prevent stuff from getting in the block coolant and oil ports After honing/deglazing, the cylinder bore will be cleaned before removal of the honing cap About 1/2 inch of the cylinder bore wont be honed/deglazed at the bottom, but this wont matters because the ring dont go that low Wish I didnt have to go throught that shit, but thats what happens when you do stupid tuning

Holy shit brah that's a lot of work for trying to prevent debris from getting flung around by the honing stones. I found that if you use a cordless drill on low speed the ball hone won't really fling anything around. I covered everything in rags around the crank and deck and never found debris that was dislodged from the ball hone landing on the rags.

It's certainly a neat idea. But like my aunty would say:

YouTube Short

YouTube Short

[torquemaniac]

Originally Posted by Tomas Holy shit brah that's a lot of work for trying to prevent debris from getting flung around by the honing stones. I found that if you use a cordless drill on low speed the ball hone won't really fling anything around. I covered everything in rags around the crank and deck and never found debris that was dislodged from the ball hone landing on the rags.

NAH...10$ chunk of 6061-T6 AL...about an hour of fun on the lathe...thats a low price for peace of mind

[Tomas]

First oil change.
Everything look honkey dorey.
Replaced the bearings on all 4 corners. The rear bearings are in non-serviceable hubs. Pretty neat. Cost a shit load from Mazda so I hais from ebay.On the front I used Timken.

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by Tomas First oil change. Everything look honkey dorey.

Sir, paper clips are not supposed to come out of your oil pan.

[Jeff23spl]

They seem to eat the wheel bearing pretty fast, i replaced the rear ones m on my wife 2010 too and front left start making noise....but i won't be allowed to do any mods to the engine/turbo ...

Did the axle came off easily ?

[802MS3]

Your manliness has been restored with those marlboro reds.

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by 802MS3 Your manliness has been restored with those marlboro reds.

That lighter looks to be quite effeminate though...

[Tomas]

Originally Posted by Jeff23spl They seem to eat the wheel bearing pretty fast, i replaced the rear ones m on my wife 2010 too and front left start making noise....but i won't be allowed to do any mods to the engine/turbo ... Did the axle came off easily ?

Fuck no. A standard 3 claw bearing puller wouldn't do it. At the end there was nothing left but pure brute force. Took a sledge hammer and mushroomed the whole tip. Had to grind it off with the angle grinder later. Not the first time I've had to do that though.

Originally Posted by 802MS3 Your manliness has been restored with those marlboro reds.

How dare you even question it.

Originally Posted by WetzMS3 That lighter looks to be quite effeminate though...

It has a dragon penis picture. Not ghey at all. Well may be. Ok pretty ghey.

[Dano]

I'm thinkin that's one of those dragon lighter/butt plug combos?

[Tomas]

No.
That one is momentarily indisposed for some routine maintenance.

[Jeff23spl]

Originally Posted by Tomas Fuck no. A standard 3 claw bearing puller wouldn't do it. At the end there was nothing left but pure brute force. Took a sledge hammer and mushroomed the whole tip. Had to grind it off with the angle grinder later. Not the first time I've had to do that though.

I had a hard time too, i broke the diff seal trying to take it off. My clue was to heat it and maybe the locktite melted and the puller worked.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by Tomas No. That one is momentarily indisposed for some routine maintenance.

O I C

It's out for a steam cleaning. The paper towels and shop rags only go so far.



Tappin

[Tomas]

Yes.
Steam cleaning and lube oil change.

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by Tomas Yes. Steam cleaning and lube oil change.

The real question is, when will you develop a self lubing buttplug that operates similar to the debris removing honing tool posted earlier in the thread?

[WetzMS3]

Bump for my buddy @Tomas; and his unicorn built CX-7.

[Tomas]

So the car has 192K miles now. I think the torque converter is kaput.
ordered a tranny with 80K on it for $370 delivered to my work place.
Time to mount some trannies. @WetzMS3; this is what I dream you look like. Sophisticated but also delicate.

[Pu Manchu]

$370?? @Scribbles; gets his trannies for free

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by Tomas So the car has 192K miles now. I think the torque converter is kaput. ordered a tranny with 80K on it for $370 delivered to my work place. Time to mount some trannies. @WetzMS3; this is what I dream you look like. Sophisticated but also delicate.

My makeup game is no where this strong. Sorry man.

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

[Tomas]

This fucking little build is turning into an anal lightning bolt.
Swapped out the tranny and torque converter and the sluggishness problem in low rpm still persists. Had a lot of blowby so I checked compression and it's low on cyl 3. Numbers were 190/190/150/190. Fuckin-a.

This is really the first engine ever I've had to deal with low compression in a cylinder. Is it possible that the low rpm sluggishness and hesitation is due to the low compression? I can't see how that could be so noticeable but unless the torque converter on the second tranny was also toast I am sort running out of ideas.
Obviously I've checked everything else such as spark plugs, fuel pressure and boost leaks.

What a joy schlapping the torque converter onto the flywheel. The only way to get at the bolts is by removing the starter and squeezing and deepwell wrench into the bell housing.

I have a nice lil surprise though.

Brembo calipers 7,8 and 9 fit the bolt pattern of the knuckle.
The 330mm brembo rotors for the 7,8 and 9 are too small. But the EVO X rotors fit almost perfectly. The pads for the 7,8,9 and 10 are the same the only difference is the EVO 10 ears on the calipers are longer.

[torquemaniac]

Ill give you the GearHead reply : what mods you got and a datalog would help alot

[Cheapspeed]

I've been driving a with low compression in cylinder 3 for years. Low rpm response has never been an issue.

[WetzMS3]

Originally Posted by Tomas Had a lot of blowby so I checked compression and it's low on cyl 3. Numbers were 190/190/150/190. Fuckin-a.

[torquemaniac]

Not joking...send a datalog!

The CX-7 is not super fast of the line with the stock tune, and if you put a MS3 or MS6 K04 on it, it will be slugish of the line even more without a tune

[Jeff23spl]

Originally Posted by Cheapspeed I've been driving a with low compression in cylinder 3 for years. Low rpm response has never been an issue.

same for me, broken ringland on #3 let me make 311whp 368 wtq at low rpm on a mustang dyno without correction factors during a hot fun dynoday....(Compression test was before the dyno)

[Tomas]

Ok.
Let me run a few more tests and see what happens.
As far as mods, there is nothing except the forged rods and gen2 pistons.
I went back to the stock turbo thinking that might fix the hesitation / sluggishness but it didnt.
The car will build boost at 2000-2500 rpm as per dashhawk but it just doesen't get going. It stutters. Fuel trims are ok and AFR also.When it hits 3k rpm or so it then sort of jumps and gets going. That low rpm torque you get just isnt there.
I need to get the laptop going with Versatune to take logs just havent done that yet.