Clifford alarm unlock issues

[Laborchet]

Hello, I have a Clifford intelliguard 770 alarm installed on my 2008 Speed 3. It was professionally installed and has always done this since it was installed.

The issue is when I unlock the car it seems to cycle through the unlock pulse twice. So the car is initially locked when the unlock button is hit. And instead of just going from locked->unlocked it does the following Behavior:

locked->unlocked->locked again->unlocked.

so it unlocks, then locks again before finally unlocking. This means I have to wait for this cycle to end before I can enter the car or before I can leave, because when I take the key off ignition it Auto Unlock’s, then locks again etc etc.

I checked all the settings on my alarm manual and nothing seems to talk about this double pulse so I’m hoping its something like a wire being in the wrong pin or something like that?

Ibrought it up to the installers attention and they said that there is no way around it for this car and it has to pulse twice because the first pulse just unlocks one door, while the second unlocks all.

I thought all cars since like 1999 had this feature, how is the alarm not capable of dealing with this? I’m sure it was just a lazy install, or at least I hope..

any help would be appreciated, I don’t know much about alarms but I’m very mechanically inclined and good at wiring etc. Just not sure what to look for so maybe someone is well versed in the Clifford wiring.

[SSinstaller]

Something is definitely wrong wirh the install. These cars need relays and resistors for the doorlocks, but not a double pulse.

Even if it did require a double pulse to unlock all the doors it shouldn't be locking between the two unlock pulses.

- I've been a car audio/security installer for 18 years. I actually installed two code alarm 5055 remote starts this afternoon. One in a 99 suburban, and one in a 07 avalon-- it actually does require a double pulse to unlock....

Find a different shop.. there is nothing difficult about the doorlocks in these cars.

[Laborchet]

Is there anywhere I should start looking? I’m good with wiring, diagrams etc. Just not used to working with alarms. If it requires a relay and resistors I could easily solder them where needed. When I went back shortly after the install they told me “this is how it is” and I wasn’t happy. It’s been a couple of years so they wouldn’t look at it for free if I went back now.

Not sure who else is a Clifford dealer but not really trying to take it somewhere for them to mess with my wiring and potentially cause more harm since they won’t know how it was installed.

I’m alao having issues with my siren, it was working on and off randomly and now it’s completely dead. I replaced with a new one and still no sound. Mine had two brown wires and the new one had a black and red wire with loops hanging out. When I first hooked it up it would very faintly beep. But now I don’t even think it’s doing that.

After a little more reading I’m finding out that this alarm can even do progressive unlocking. So driver door on one click and the rest of the doors on a second click within 20 seconds. Why didn’t my installer mention this? That’s how I want it to work. Not one click to unlock all with a useless lock cycle in between. I also read that it may require an additional module, a relay module it seems. Part number PGMDLBP. Can you confirm this, or can my alarm handle the unlocking on its own? I really want to get this sorted. I don’t mind doing the wiring I just need help with the relays or pins to look for

[SSinstaller]

IIRC the Clifford alarms use an actual speaker, not a 12v siren like everyone else, so if you bought a standard siren its not going to work.

Your car only has one wire for the actual door lock trigger. It should be green/red in the drivers kick panel(in the harness coming from the door).

To lock : ground through a 1000 ohm resistor.
To unlock : ground.

The lock wire from your alarm is green, unlock is blue. They will be in a small 3 pin connector--the middle pin will probably be empty, but may have a red wire that you can use for 12v to your relays.

I've attached a pic I stole from google, it shows the relay setup, just make sure to use a 1k ohm resistor not whats shown in the pic..

****This wiring information is being provided free of charge, without any representation or warranty. Verify all vehicle connections with a multimeter before making any connections. I assume no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.

[Laborchet]

Thank you for the info! I’ll look into it tomorrow. First I’ll try to figure out how it’s wired since it’s all working, just not exactly how I want it.

Have you heard about that module I mentioned the part number for? Found a write up to wire that in, basically says to wire the driver door unlock and all other doors separately so that it can do “progressive unlocking”

Honestly I’d be happy just without the double lock cycle.

The siren I bought is meant for this alarm, was identical to the one I took off. A 514LN siren, I read hey have a backup battery that may have gone bad since I bought one from an old stock.

Originally Posted by SSinstaller IIRC the Clifford alarms use an actual speaker, not a 12v siren like everyone else, so if you bought a standard siren its not going to work. Your car only has one wire for the actual door lock trigger. It should be green/red in the drivers kick panel(in the harness coming from the door). To lock : ground through a 1000 ohm resistor. To unlock : ground. The lock wire from your alarm is green, unlock is blue. They will be in a small 3 pin connector--the middle pin will probably be empty, but may have a red wire that you can use for 12v to your relays. I've attached a pic I stole from google, it shows the relay setup, just make sure to use a 1k ohm resistor not whats shown in the pic.. ****This wiring information is being provided free of charge, without any representation or warranty. Verify all vehicle connections with a multimeter before making any connections. I assume no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.

[SSinstaller]

The Intelliguard 770 manual says to use a 518c(speaker), you can substitute a 518ln(speaker). The 514ln is a 12v siren and will not work. They look identical, but the siren will have red and black wires.

PGMDLBP is not necessary for progressive unlock.

You need the same relay setup I already posted except you use the second unlock output from the alarm module instead of the primary.

You use the primary unlock output and one additional relay to trigger the driver door actuator to unlock directly.

Driver door actuator unlock wire is white/black in the driver kickpanel. It will need to be cut, not just tapped.

Pin 85 - 12v
Pin 86 - primary unlock from your alarm should be blue

Pin 30 - door side of cut white/black
Pin 87a - car side of cut white black
Pin 87 - 12v


This will unlock only drivers door on first press, then unlock all doors(including drivers again) on the second press.

****This wiring information is being provided free of charge, without any representation or warranty. Verify all vehicle connections with a multimeter before making any connections. I assume no liability or responsibility resulting from improper installation, even in reliance upon this information.

[Laborchet]

Ok so I need three relays. one for locking and two for unlocking, if I want to do progressive.

What I’m kind of confused about is this part

Originally Posted by SSinstaller . You need the same relay setup I already posted except you use the second unlock output from the alarm module instead of the primary. You use the primary unlock output and one additional relay to trigger the driver door actuator to unlock directly.

Originally Posted by SSinstaller Pin 85 - 12v Pin 86 - primary unlock from your alarm should be blue Pin 30 - door side of cut white/black Pin 87a - car side of cut white black Pin 87 - 12v

So I wire one relay as you posted in the previous post but using the secondary input instead, and then another relay but using wiring as quoted above?

[SSinstaller]

You need both the relays from post 4, the only change is you use the lock output and the second unlock output from the alarm.

You use the primary unlock output for the relay in post 6.

That will unlock the drivers door on the first unlock press, and all doors on the second.

[Laborchet]

Thank you! That’s what I thought but wanted to clarify. I will give it a shot, curious as to how it will work since my alarm locks and unlocks with the same button.

Thanks for all the help, I’ll tackle it tomorrow. 40A relay is enough?

[SSinstaller]

40amp relay is way more than you need. The 2 relays on the doorlock switch wire you can fuse at 5amps together. The relay on the actuator directly should be fine with a 7.5a fuse.

[SSinstaller]

You will need to program your alarm to activate the priority unlock, by default it will be off.

[Laborchet]

Do I have to add a fuse or can I just use a relay rated for 5 or 7.5a?

[SSinstaller]

You need to add the fuses. Electrical fires are expensive, fuses are cheap.

[Laborchet]

On the 12v of the relay or on the load wire?

Just pulled the kick panel to see what I could find and saw the blue unlock wire tapped into two wires on the harness..one of them is the green/red thats supposed to be the lock the harness




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[SSinstaller]

It looks like instead of using relays they tried to use the factory alarm arm wire to lock and so they had to use the factory disarm wire along with the switch wire to unlock without setting the oem alarm off.

If they had just used a relay and 1k ohm resistor to lock via the green/red wire there would be no need to mess with the oem arm/disarm wires.

[Laborchet]

Mygod.. and to think they are “professionals”

Looks like I’m going to have to start from zero with a properly fused relay setup..

So in that picture, the light green/red wire is the lock/unlock on the car harness?

The second wire that the blue Clifford alarm wire is tapped to is the factory alarm disarm? And the green lock alarm wire is what looks to be tapped into the factory alarm to lock? What a mess...

No wonder my factory alarm ALWAYS acted up since the install. I’d have to open and close my doors just right to avoid itself self arming



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[SSinstaller]

Yes. Green/red is the doorlock switch wire.

Fuse the 12v leads before the relays.

Diodes are cheaper than relays, thats probably why they did it this way. At my shop we charge a shop fee thats 10% of the labor so we dont have to do things like this. If I need parts that were left off the invoice by the salesperson, I just use them.. I'm not cutting corners over $10 worth of parts-and I'm not charging the customer for my salespersons screwup.

[Laborchet]

They shouldn’t have cut corners either, with what they charged me..

The green/red wire does both locks and unlocks the doors?


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[SSinstaller]

Two way alarm with remote start with clutch bypass and neutral safety connection would run about $650 installed

Ground the green/red and you get unlock.
Ground through 1000 ohm resistor and you get lock.

[Laborchet]

Thanks again man! You’ve helped tremendously. Now I just need to look up which is the secondary unlock coming off the Clifford alarm


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[SSinstaller]

I think its blue/white, but its in the manual I uploaded.

[Laborchet]

It is indeed!

Originally Posted by SSinstaller I think its blue/white, but its in the manual I uploaded.

And what gauge wire should I use for this?


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[SSinstaller]

18g is fine.

[Laborchet]

Ended up going with 16ga before reading this but it should be fine.

The 3 pin connector with the blue and green unlock wires doesn’t have the middle red wire for 12v. Where else can I draw constant 12v from?


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[SSinstaller]

Should be a red wire in the main harness of the alarm. Make sure you tap in before the alarm's fuse.

[Laborchet]

Originally Posted by SSinstaller Should be a red wire in the main harness of the alarm. Make sure you tap in before the alarm's fuse.

Found it, it goes tapped into a big red wire under the steering column which goes into the ignition. There’s no fuse between alarm harness plug and where it’s spliced into that big red wire. Should there be one??


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[SSinstaller]

Usually there would be one.

[Laborchet]

Originally Posted by SSinstaller Usually there would be one.

I’ll slap a 7.5 amp in there, is that too small?

I finished the relays, installed them and works as expected! Finally!!! I should’ve looked into this myself a long time ago.

Now to figure out why the siren stopped working. I get zero voltage at the end of the wire inside the engine bay. I was testing while locking/unlocking so not sure if maybe the chirp it does isn’t enough for my multimeter go pickup since it’s kind of quick..


This was before applying the heat shrink on the fuse wire but anyway that’s how it looks Incase anyone needs this for future reference

[SSinstaller]

I'd go with a 10amp in the alarm brain.

Relays look good. You going to wait on the priority unlock?

[Laborchet]

Originally Posted by SSinstaller I'd go with a 10amp in the alarm brain. Relays look good. You going to wait on the priority unlock?

I installed it like that, I figured I’d try that out first before adding another relay for the priority unlock.

It works great, so good that I’m happy to leave it like that because now it unlocks without any fuss and I don’t even wanna have to hit the button twice to unlock all doors. Also, it’s really tight behind the kick panel for a third relay and wiring, I could make it work but I’m happy like that. Tomorrow gonna tackle the no power for the siren


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[SSinstaller]

Make sure you're using a speaker, not a siren. I posted the part number you should have in post 6.

[Laborchet]

Originally Posted by SSinstaller Make sure you're using a speaker, not a siren. I posted the part number you should have in post 6.

I got a 514ln so it might not be right. It does have a red and black wire while my other siren had two brown wires.

You’re probably right, it’s the wrong part but I also tested 0 voltage at the leads so there may be a cut wire somewhere along the way. I did mention that my test method may be faulty. I tested with a multimeter and locking/unlocking the car, got slight voltage up to like 3v but very quickly. I was thinking maybe the unlock beep is too quick for the multimeter to pick it up.

Would it be better to purposely trigger the alarm and test with a meter then? And the two brown wires, do they have polarity of nah?”


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[SSinstaller]

You will test across both speaker wires. The DMM should be set to AC, not DC.

[AhmedBahgat]

Originally Posted by SSinstaller Something is definitely wrong wirh the install. These cars need relays and resistors for the doorlocks, but not a double pulse. Even if it did require a double pulse to unlock all the doors it shouldn't be locking between the two unlock pulses. - I've been a car audio/security installer for 18 years. I actually installed two code alarm 5055 remote starts this afternoon. One in a 99 suburban, and one in a 07 avalon-- it actually does require a double pulse to unlock.... Find a different shop.. there is nothing difficult about the doorlocks in these cars.

Hello mate

i am trying to find the lock/unlock wire that suppose to be green/red in the driver kick panel but it is not there, or I may say it is there but different colours which i still have to indentify, my car is the Australian model of the Mazdaspeed3, it is called Mazda 3 MPS, it is gen 1 and was produced in October 2006, so my question is this please, if i find the lock/unlock wire, what should I do to lock/unlock the car through that wire via a third party alarm?

I know that I need 2 relays to supply to that wire either negative to unlock or negative through 1000 ohms resistor to lock, but i am confused about cutting the wire or just tap the two other wires coming from the 2 relays into it without cutting it, if I cut the wire would that mean that the Lock/Unlock handle in the driver door will not work any more?

Can you please confirm as your expertise would be very much appreciated

Cheers

[SSinstaller]

You just tap in to the wire.

It's green/red in both kick panels, or black/blue at the pjb in connector J-06.

[AhmedBahgat]

Originally Posted by SSinstaller You just tap in to the wire. It's green/red in both kick panels, or black/blue at the pjb in connector J-06.

Thanks mate, appreciate the quick reply, i am struggling with this for over a month now trying to identify the lock wire to central lock all doors without activating the his-spec Mazda alarm that i had Mazda install for me when i bought the car new, it seems the Australian Mazda 3 MPS harness is slightly different to the European and American ones
there is absolutely no green/red wire in either kick panels, i even had my wife to check fearing i became colour blind, in addition to that, the black/blue wire in the PJB connector j-06 not working at all for either locking or unlocking, i used relays with 1000 ohms resistor for the lock, nothing happens, however what i discovered is pretty interesting, if i give momentarily ground to the second from top left, black/orange wire, it will lock all doors, and if i give the same momentarily earth to the sixth from bottom left, black/green wire, it will unlock the car, see image below



What i am trying to achieve is simply make the car power lock all doors when I reach a certain speed. now half of the hard work has been resolved by identifying the central locking lock wire and figuring out how it works, the second half is to identify the speedo pulse wire as i bought a frequency switch relay that will trigger when the car reaches a certain speed, would you have any idea how to find the speed pulse signal wire please?

Thank you very much for your prompted reply

Cheers

[SSinstaller]

The wires you found are the lock and unlock wires coming from the key cylinder in the door, they'll work fine for what you want to do, but are generally not used with aftermarket security because they also arm/disarm the OEM security.

There isn't a true speed pulse wire, it's just data on the can-bus driving the speedometer, depending on how your trigger works you may be able to use the wiring from a wheel speed sensor.

[AhmedBahgat]

Originally Posted by SSinstaller The wires you found are the lock and unlock wires coming from the key cylinder in the door, they'll work fine for what you want to do, but are generally not used with aftermarket security because they also arm/disarm the OEM security. There isn't a true speed pulse wire, it's just data on the can-bus driving the speedometer, depending on how your trigger works you may be able to use the wiring from a wheel speed sensor.

I actually tested the arming of the mazda hi-spec alarm, giving direct earth , constant or momentry to that J06 AC pin (second from top left) does not activate the alarm regardless the engine is running or the engine is off, the alarm is only armed by the key fob, in fact the alarm does not even arm by using the key directly in the driver door, this is how it was working and continues to work as expected even if i give constant earth to the pin, the amazing thing is even with the constant earth to that locking pin the central locking switch in the driver door works seemlessly with no problem

I think that is what the frequency relay that i bought does, it reads pulses like the ABS pulses and will trigger a relay based on certain pulse that you can fine tune up or down via a wheel on board

Can i tap into the wheel speed sensor from any where in the dash?

Cheers

[SSinstaller]

The wheel speed sensors connect directly to the abs module under the hood. You might be able to find the wires for the rear sensors in the harness coming up the running board.