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I just checked out the APR website, and a Golf R with no engine hardware modifications, and just an APR plus tune (which is their entry level tune) is claimed to make 323 whp and 329 wtq. The stage 2 tune with upgraded intake, intercooler, and downpipe claims 354 whp and 387 wtq. Those are some very impressive numbers for a stock turbo, and an AWD.
__________________ - 2009 Speed 3 - Clocked BNR S4 v2 - Corksport 3.5" Intake - Cobb 3 Port Bcs - Cobb AP V2 - Guardian Angel V3 - Tr8 Fmic w/ Jbr Under Route Piping - Jbr Raiders Air Damn w/ Custom Radiator Side Ducting - Cpe Catless Dp - Cnt Catback - Cobb Xle Bpv - Corksport IM - Full Race EM - Cobb Shift Knob - Autotech Internals - Corksport HP Fuel Line - Gen 2 VC w/ Sp63 Oil Breather Cap - DM PCV Plate w/ Dual Vented Catch Cans - Jbr 88a Rmm - 88a Tmm - 80a Pmm - Corksport Injector Seals - Ngk 1 Step colder Plugs - Koni Yellow Shocks - Eibach Springs - 94 Octane w/ 3 Gallons of In Tank Methanol - Sp63 6th Port Kit (tune in progress) | |
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What I find interesting about these newer Inline 4 turbo engines is how they're able to make such good factory power on straight pump gas. The efficiency and design has to be such that it prevents detonation, and there have been so many improvements to Direct Injection turbo 4 bangers since our 2.3L MZR first hit the market. From what I've read, the 2.3L MZR DISI is a pioneer in the Direct Injection gasoline category, so there are many things that have been improved on to promote efficiency and power since then. If there is one bit of advice I can share to someone on a stock block looking for longevity and decent power, it would be to have a very good tune, and to run more octane then the tune requires
__________________ - 2009 Speed 3 - Clocked BNR S4 v2 - Corksport 3.5" Intake - Cobb 3 Port Bcs - Cobb AP V2 - Guardian Angel V3 - Tr8 Fmic w/ Jbr Under Route Piping - Jbr Raiders Air Damn w/ Custom Radiator Side Ducting - Cpe Catless Dp - Cnt Catback - Cobb Xle Bpv - Corksport IM - Full Race EM - Cobb Shift Knob - Autotech Internals - Corksport HP Fuel Line - Gen 2 VC w/ Sp63 Oil Breather Cap - DM PCV Plate w/ Dual Vented Catch Cans - Jbr 88a Rmm - 88a Tmm - 80a Pmm - Corksport Injector Seals - Ngk 1 Step colder Plugs - Koni Yellow Shocks - Eibach Springs - 94 Octane w/ 3 Gallons of In Tank Methanol - Sp63 6th Port Kit (tune in progress) Last edited by BuddySpeed3; 12-16-2017 at 02:46 PM. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I was under the impression that the new VW/Audi performance engines were DI AND port injection. Also, a lot of horsepower on pump gas isn't anything new. If anything, it's one of the cruxes of the MZR. There are many other 4-banger engines making over 400whp on pump gas.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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No doubt its a greatly engineered vehicle but with a hefty price tag. In the terms of budget i still think the dizi is the best bang for buck coming into the performance segment. Sent from my MHA-L09 using Tapatalk | |
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I did some reading and there were only talks of the ones in Europe having Muli Port Injection. I would need to do more reading to confirm that though.
__________________ - 2009 Speed 3 - Clocked BNR S4 v2 - Corksport 3.5" Intake - Cobb 3 Port Bcs - Cobb AP V2 - Guardian Angel V3 - Tr8 Fmic w/ Jbr Under Route Piping - Jbr Raiders Air Damn w/ Custom Radiator Side Ducting - Cpe Catless Dp - Cnt Catback - Cobb Xle Bpv - Corksport IM - Full Race EM - Cobb Shift Knob - Autotech Internals - Corksport HP Fuel Line - Gen 2 VC w/ Sp63 Oil Breather Cap - DM PCV Plate w/ Dual Vented Catch Cans - Jbr 88a Rmm - 88a Tmm - 80a Pmm - Corksport Injector Seals - Ngk 1 Step colder Plugs - Koni Yellow Shocks - Eibach Springs - 94 Octane w/ 3 Gallons of In Tank Methanol - Sp63 6th Port Kit (tune in progress) | ||
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| Not Ranked : 0 score The Golf R is overall just impressive on what it will put down with just bolt ons. Other tuning companies have exceeded 400 whp on stock turbo and pump fuel. A STi as a example will make about 320 whp running full bolt ons like a protune, EL headers, intake and fuel system upgrades, etc, where the R will do that and then some with just a off the shelf “stage 1” tune... plus with the VW you get a decent interior and a very solid tight feeling car, although the steering is really numb, especially compared to our speeds... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score too bad they're so fuckin expensive.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score A little late to the party here but current 2017 Golf R owner and previous 2013 Speed3 owner. I agree wholeheartedly that in the sub $25k market, the speed3 is/was the best bang for your buck hence why I've owned a 2008.5 and 2013 speed3. With that said, the R is exactly what the Speed3 is/was to the $25k market but the R occupies the sub $40k market. The MK7 R's make power easy and now that the AP has made its way over, we're seeing a lot of development in the way of new protuners. With just a downpipe and intercooler people are seeing close to 400HP and the average seems to be right around 365-380 depending on fuel quality, aux fuel, other mods and how aggressive the tune is. Even without any mods and just a tune I've seen as high as 330HP. I ran my stock R up against a bolted Speed3 from a 40 roll a few times and as expected the speed 3 won out by about a car length. We ran from a dig as well and it was about even due to AWD vs FWD. A separate occassion and different cars, we ran a stage 2 R vs a bolted Speed3 (no aux fueling) from only a 40 roll and it was the R by about 2.5 car lengths. The R during this race had DSG so that played a role and I'm sure if the Speed was running meth and/or corn it would have been a bit closer. Simply put I don't think you can really compare the two cars bolted vs bolted. They may share the hatchback and 4 banger turbo category but aside from that they are two very different cars separated by a good chunk of change. I will say though the steering feel in my speed is light years above the electronic feel of my steering in the R but that's about the only thing I really do miss from the speed when driving my R. The speed holds a special place in my heart but the R has done a fantastic job in helping me move on. If anyone has anymore questions regarding the R that I can answer let me know. ![]() Yeah, I hear you. The parts are also very expensive but you really do get a quality car. I know VW has had quality issues in the past, specifically the Mk4s and early production MK5s but they've come along away since those days. I consider myself fortunate for paying $38.7 for my R. I've seen them go for as low as $35k but I think $38-$40k is right around average. Anymore than that I'm looking for something different.
__________________ 2013 LSM Mazdaspeed3 - stocked out and traded 6/5/2017 2017 LGM Golf R - South Bend stage 3 daily clutch / IE intake / Wagner IC / AWE downpipe / Indvidia catback / EQT Tuned 2004 Yamaha R6 - Micron Ricer Pipe / PC 2005 Honda CBR 600 F4i - R.I.P. 10/29/13 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score if i was in the market for $35-40k, GolfR would be high up on the list. as it stands, i could realistically afford to get into a Fiesta ST if i were to decide to sell my Speed (which I've been contemplating )
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Why not a Focus? Just curious. The Fiesta is a fun, nimble car but really topped out in terms of factory power which isn't a surprise given the turbo and engine size. I did see Justin tuning a Fiesta ST with a GT28 turbo on it and it made really good power but no sure how reliable it would be if you were looking for a daily. I was trying to get my GF to get into a Fiesta so I had something small to play around with but she really wanted AWD and doesn't give two shits about cars so she ended up in a base impreza. Truth be told, its a very comfortable car. I drive it more than the R these days (bad back and the cold just absolutely destroys it).
__________________ 2013 LSM Mazdaspeed3 - stocked out and traded 6/5/2017 2017 LGM Golf R - South Bend stage 3 daily clutch / IE intake / Wagner IC / AWE downpipe / Indvidia catback / EQT Tuned 2004 Yamaha R6 - Micron Ricer Pipe / PC 2005 Honda CBR 600 F4i - R.I.P. 10/29/13 | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Speaking of bang for the buck, I can't justify the cost premium for anything better than the speed 6 or 3. The ST's are marginally slower if not the same as the MS3. I rode in a Focus ST with Uber. He obviously didn't drive it hard being an Uber, but generally speaking, I wasn't impressed with any of it. Maybe it's because the MS6's are so nice...relatively speaking. Fiesta ST...Likely more of the same. Why pay a lot more for the same quality/performance as a Speed3? VW/Audi variants are nice but at an even steeper premium. You could have a pretty nice and stout Speed for much less than a base GolfR or S3/RS3.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm just not all that impressed with the FoST compared to a Speed3, homestly. Smaller, less powerful engine (but similar size vehicle overall), etc. Whereas the FiST, from what I've read, can make some good power with a turbo upgrade and bolt ons...I'd need to boost one to about 300whp to hit the same power-to-weight as my CS turbo e30 map. The FiST supposedly also has fantastic suspension right out of the box, making it a fun little runaround. I don't know how serious I am about jumping to a new car; i just sometimes get annoyed by how loud and harsh my Speed suspension is, and find myself coveting something that would offer comparable performance in a more comfortable package.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I thought my MS6 had stiff suspension when I first got it...but I came from an Oldsmobile Alero...LOL. Now 2 years later..almost to the very day I bought it, I think it's a very comfy ride. Firm. Not stiff. Ya, it looks like a 4x4 sitting next to a lowered speed, but I like how it feels/rides. It has everything I've ever wanted in a car. The only downfall is me, because fast is never really fast enough.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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I had every opportunity to pour all of my Golf R money into my speed3 but the starting point (regardless of price) was better with the R than the Speed3. Features like AWD also make the premium worth it over my speed3 not to mention all the other creature comforts that come along with the increased performance of the Golf R. Most buyers also value the warranty. I'm not really in that boat since every one of my cars is typically tuned within the first year of ownership but again, that's not representative of the average buyer. I get it, on this site people are going to defend the platform and I agree wholeheartedly that the speed3/6 are still a terrific bargain but they're aging. As I said earlier, I really don't think the Golf R and the Speed3/6 are really that comparable due to price and performance stock vs stock.
__________________ 2013 LSM Mazdaspeed3 - stocked out and traded 6/5/2017 2017 LGM Golf R - South Bend stage 3 daily clutch / IE intake / Wagner IC / AWE downpipe / Indvidia catback / EQT Tuned 2004 Yamaha R6 - Micron Ricer Pipe / PC 2005 Honda CBR 600 F4i - R.I.P. 10/29/13 | |
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The FiST is quite capable with a bigger turbo I know a guy that put I believe a gt28r on his and that made 380 whp and 340 wtq... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah, for what it is the FiST isn't a terrible car. It's a nice, small, economy car with some extra fun in the engine. It's just a confusing car for the segment its in. It's weird to see an ST badge on a car that competes with the likes of a Prius and the Cruz. But yeah, they're a capable little car for sure!
__________________ 2013 LSM Mazdaspeed3 - stocked out and traded 6/5/2017 2017 LGM Golf R - South Bend stage 3 daily clutch / IE intake / Wagner IC / AWE downpipe / Indvidia catback / EQT Tuned 2004 Yamaha R6 - Micron Ricer Pipe / PC 2005 Honda CBR 600 F4i - R.I.P. 10/29/13 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This shitwagen R with speed3 gen1 steering feel... would be the God of cars. But failwagen is failwagen, so despite how easy is to drive it fast for a driving enthusiast is quite shit. I think from the modern hatches the FK2 and FK8 typeR have the best steering feel, even if they are shitlectric. a45amg comes next, and ... 3rd place which is more like 5th place comes the FAILcus RS. Packaging and efficiency out of thin air is the main goal these days even for entry level sport cars. Because they figured this out from the very beginning McLaren decided to go servo-hydraulic with their steering assist which is one of the reasons why people tend to have random erections when driving them right after similarly potent supercars.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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As far as I know it's a stout car with very little widespread issues. The only weak link is the clutch on the manual models which honestly I would be upgrading at some point anyways so for me it's a sunk cost. Most people have an issue with the price which is completely reasonable but at the end of the day that's a personal preference and hardly a reason to consider the MK7 R a failwagen. I think it's clear you just hate VW in general and EVERYTHING else pales in comparison to the speed platform. Again, I expect everyone here to defend the platform as I do on my occasions but to discredit the R simply because it's a"failwagen" because you don't like VW is a transparent bias, which you're free to have. AMG45 was on my.short list but that comes in right near an RS3 and with the R being sold at a premium already, no way I'll pay it aka I can't afford that shit haha
__________________ 2013 LSM Mazdaspeed3 - stocked out and traded 6/5/2017 2017 LGM Golf R - South Bend stage 3 daily clutch / IE intake / Wagner IC / AWE downpipe / Indvidia catback / EQT Tuned 2004 Yamaha R6 - Micron Ricer Pipe / PC 2005 Honda CBR 600 F4i - R.I.P. 10/29/13 | |
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Objective reasons: - comparing to other equivalent cars, the cars manufactured by massmurderwagen are relatively shit to drive from a feeling point of view. The steering is numb, the overall experience is a numb/dull one. I can understand that for any cars under 150bhp, but not for so-called sport cars. - the R understeers quite a lot at the limit. I don't get it, why did they set that one up like that?! In the wet, again, understeers! Unless you flick it around quite hard it will understeer even when back parking. Not as bad as 2004-2010 Opel/Saturn models but way too bad for something that wears an R badge. - reliability. Not sure about the States, but in Europe these wrecks eat up a lot of oil, suffer a lot from carbon deposits, break quite often (engine, injectors, clutches, DSGs) and they don't phoken meet the emission standards! Subjective reasons (pretty objective actually): - massmurderwagen, as a company, is at the roots of this shitty trend with truck engines in small cars. Later in the game they figured people are dying from diesel soot and some species of birds disappear from cities and cyclists suffocate in the side of the road, so they come up with post-treatment systems to supposedly help with that. The way these abominations function require special oils which are inferior from a lubrication stand-point than normal oils (ACEA C1/C2/C3), so that they can burn supposedly-clean the excess of soot captured in a phoken stove under the car called diesel particle filter. And because they wanted wanted to be on the top of the diesel game they phoken cheated and 35 metric tons 18 wheelers HAVE CLEANER EMISSIONS with 12-16 litre diesel engines that these shitheads have with their 1.6 and 2.0 dieselmass murder tools. - everybody has a shitwagen,so why buy one?! There are a lot fewer Mazdas, Mitsubishis, Hyundays and so on, and they're actually superior cars (objectively speaking and from an acceleration stand point none superior to a golFAIL R, but the golf is a fail for just being a golf, from the get go); - because all shitwagen petrol engines consume quite a bit of oil, as do the stinky diesels but at least we know those are some abominations (the 1.8TSI consumes less, but it does, the 2.0, 1.2 and 1.4TSI being the absolute champions of shit and massmurder wagenism) they are not even by far as clean as they should be or they say they are. So phock them so hard until they levitate and need anal water to air cooling, and at the same time phock them between the tonsils so that they orbit around the planet. On the other hand, considering how weird the sport compacts became these days and considering the price, the R is a pretty good bargain. The manual trans is decent and has nothing spectacular to it, but that 300BHP engine in combination with the DSG7 gearbox is pretty good. There aren't too many cars under 60k$ that can go as fast as an R on the road in all conditions (wet, sand, dry, whatever). Maybe the FAILcus RS but that costs more and the recently revealed head gasket issues don't look good at all, the WRX STI is also a lot more expensive and not as fast even if it drives a lot better, the FK2 or FK8 typeR may not be the right choice for areas with a lot of rain and long winters and they are a bit overrated in the states anyway, so not much to choose from. Therefore I have nothing to say about anyone getting an R, he/she made a good choice, just that it's the wrong choice only because these cars are made by hypocrite mass murderers.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI | |
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__________________ Genpoo stuff |
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![]() | | #25 | ![]() |
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However, they're kind of cheating with the petrol engines too (remember the oil consumption) so fuck them until cum bursts out through all their skin pores.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI | |
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![]() | | #26 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score ya there crap, and not quit as well built as you think!! and when problems do arise with them the company does not address it |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score My ex-wife's passat 2.0 TFSI burned a lot of oil. Dealer said, "it's built like a race engine. They all do thst." Not even joking.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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![]() | | #28 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ya a work college Passat does exactly what your wife's car does consumes oil, plus it's had new clutch new head lights, turbo and new e brake on a 2008 one |
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Also, for some reason these FAILwagen engines (both the TDIs and the small TSIs, not sure from 2.5 up how things look like) start burning oil after the second oil change in general, and only in very few cases after the first or even before that occurs. I hope things will turn out well for all people here owning a GTI or an R. I really do! The problem is that statistics say life is never that good.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score She would get the low oil warning before the oil change was due. Left her on the side of the road several times while I brought her a few quarts.
__________________ '06 MS6 GT-167k Miles(Forged@157,116) Manley Pistons & Rods, King Bearings Stock Head/Cams, Stock Int/Exh Manifolds Versatuner, 3-bar MAP, ITV22, CP-e TMIC CS Turbo/DP/RP/HPFP/BPV/R-DiffMount White Widow F-DiffMount, Whiteline RSB Rear Russian Bushings, Poly FSB Bushings Magnaflow CBE, ACT 6-puck/Streetlite JBR Tru-3.5/3-port EBCS/EGR-D Damond RMM/PMM/OCC/PCV Plate Other rides: 2014 F-150 XLT SuperCrew Ecoboost 2002 Tacoma ExtCab 2.4L 5spd 2WD 2004 Olds Alero ECOtec 2.2 - Broken History: 2008 GSX-R 1000 - Stolen 1988 RX-7 TII - Sold (13.467 @ 105.44) 1985 Camaro - Sold (est. 265bhp 5.7 swap, Edelbrock intake & Hooker headers) |
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![]() | | #31 | ![]() |
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Every ea888 engine I know has gone to very high mileage with nothing but routine maintenance. My wife’s 2016 Tiguan has been a excellent vehicle at nearly 50k Miles it’s needed nothing but oil changes and now a new set of tires, and consumes no oil between changes every 5k, so I’m not really sure where you’re coming from... did you personally have a bad experience with one? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
In my experience I don’t think any company can top Subaru in poor customer service when it comes to addressing problems... a local dealer told me that headgasket failure at 100k miles is normal in almost any car, I’m not joking unfortunately Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Last edited by drive_sideways; 12-26-2017 at 09:06 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost | ||
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![]() | | #32 | ![]() |
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Also, not all of them develop this issue or not as early, but a pretty high number of them. So far all my friends who had one 2 litre ea888 (GTI, golfR or Leon Cupra) ran into issues, less one friend with an 1.8TSI on a Skoda who managed to drive about 80k miles until the engine started to burn some oil (and not much, 2 quarts between oil changes which were done at 8k miles).
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI | |
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![]() | | #33 | ![]() |
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You want a car that burns oil go buy a Subaru with a EJ engine. Those consume oil like rotaries lol. My wife’s car hasn’t had any issues at all, at nearly 50k it burns no oil at all at 5k oil changes. A friend of mine has a “stage 2” b8 a4 with over 200k miles and it burns maybe 1/2 a quart at 5k miles... Idk if the euro ones are made different or what, but no one that I know of over here across the pond has those problems mentioned... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk | |
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However, over here we're just fed up with their hypocrisy and emissions cheating on already high polluting cars, the fact that even the (supposedly) cleaner petrol engines from them use more timing to get more power this resulting in higher NOx, the pretty often oil consumption on all their petrol or diesel engines and the 70% failure rate of their 1.2 and 1.4TSI engines.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I did. 7R Stock / Mazdaspeed (called " Mps " here in europe) it was just a 50- top end "race", nearly no differences. The 7R was a rental car ( :'D ) without any mods. My ms3 got dp, exhaust & ecu remap. |
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I live in NY which has a fairly strict emissions test and my wife’s passed without any issues. And you drive a heavily modded speed3 and are talking about emissions I’m sure it’s not nearly as clean as a stock VW. You hate VW as much as I hate Subaru lol Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk | |
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![]() | | #37 | ![]() |
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Unfortunately subarus are not sold in a high enough number here and they're quite overrated. An outback or legacy which in the US cots $25k here costs 38-40k EUR. the STI here is 46k EUR, in the US it's $36k. And so on. As tested my heavily modded speed2 exceeds the Euro4 norms (it's Euro4 in the original papers), complies with Euro5. And that is with some less environment friendly oils (Motul Ester Sport, Millers CFS NT, and so on, which are usually used for racing), because if I use some ACEA A5 or C2/C3 engine oil it may even meet the Euro6 standards. I'll have to test that some day, it only came out in the discussion with a certified automotive engineer from the facility I took the smog tests. As a conclusion it's cleaner than any Euro6 diesel on the road that was driven more than a few thousandth miles in city traffic, and just as clean or cleaner than any euro5/euro6 TSI with oil consumption issues. So it's not because I said so, it's how it came out after testing it. The two high flow Magnaflow 59956 cats in the DP and TP make wonders. Before that I had only one very good Euro5 cat in the DP (the emissions testing revealed that it was almost Euro5 with just that cat) but I shattered it in only one summer and like 8k miles. I hate being a hypocrite so I make everything I can not to be one when I launch such a shit load of cum over all VW products while I shit bricks of soot myself on the tailpipe... Also, these tuned cars are just a few, while VW sells millions of units with emissions issues right from the factory line.
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI | |
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![]() | | #38 | ![]() |
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Want over rated go to the small state of Vermont, I’m willing to bet $ more WRX’s and STi’s are on the road there then just about any other place, and 90% are fully straight piped you can here them from 2 miles away no joke. They also consume absolutely ridiculous amounts of oil, I owned 2, a ej255 swapped gf8 hatch and a regular 08 2.5i. Both burned tons of oil (my gf8 often times went through 4 quarts or more in between 3000 MILE CHANGES lol) and both broke down constantly. Headgaskets on both and ringland failure on my gf8. Headgaskets at a shop with water pump and timing belt will run most customers about 2000-2500 US$ and has to be done every 100k miles and according to the dealer is “normal” and they don’t cover it. That’s absolutely outrageous in my book. Plus they cost a lot to modify and the gains are unimpressive. IMO Mazda is the best Japanese auto maker (I may be biased ), right up there with Honda in terms of reliability but a little more fun to drive. The VW’s and Audi’s I’ve had have always been great cars both my b5 a4 and b5.5 Passat went well over 200k Miles with nothing but oil changes, tires and brakes. Plus there bodies and frames hold up well in a area where it’s snowy 6 months out of the year... Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk | |
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