MP5T

[Brian MP5T]

"I really think that Less is More if there is an extreme amount of "Less".

Each and every part is selected based on, Function and Reliability, Then It Must never stand out, seem out of place, and it must be part of the rest.

I do not want a bunch of parts in a car, I want a Single Perfect Machine."
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Texas Mile Top Speed Mazda Protege, Gear Ratios for 300Km per hour at 7000 RPM
A Full out assault on Top Speed and Acceleration. A Grown-Up Kids Go-KART for the street.

- Fully Forged Engine
- Transmission with PAR Straight Cut Gears Set Specified Ratios (2.500, 1.550, 1.100, 0.770, 0.650 Final 4.105)
- Haltech Standalone ECU on Custom Trigger (36-1+1) Sequential Injection
- Direct Fire AEM CDI Coil On Plug conversion Multi Strike
- Quaife ATB LSD
- SPEC Stage 3++ R Pressure Plate and Clutch Disk (425 Ft/Lb Clamp)
- SPEC 6.8 Lb Aluminum Flywheel.
- K-Sport 14" 8 Piston Brake System
- K-Sport Hydraulic Hand brake
- K-Sport RR Aluminum Coil Over suspension
- IQ3 Digital Display Solution
- WORK Emotion Kai 7076 Forged Aluminum Rims, 18" Only 16Lbs
- Full OEM JDM Mazda SPORT 20 Conversion (Front, Rear, Lights, Badges)
- Full Weight Reduction

Spring 2013...
- Projector Retorfit
- AAC Multilink Rear Suspension
- 225 35 18


Hello, I am Brian. I have been working on my Mazda Protege5 since I bought it in 2002.
There are not parts that were not specifically made custom for the car. Hardly any "Bolt-Ons", and even if they were bolted on, they were either prototype parts or the only one made.
I have just installed a Haltech Sport 1000 with IQ3 racepak display. I am the first person to install this engine management system on this engine running Direct Fire Ignition and Full Timed Sequential Injection.

It can be viewed at http://www.cardomain.com/ride/503974 in better detail.
(1.2+ Million Hits)

[Brian MP5T]

ENGINE-
2.0L Iron Block, Aluminum Head
Arias 8.5:1 Pistons
Pauter Rods
Clevite Bearings
ARP Crank Studs
Cometic MLS Gasket
Power Steering Delete
Air Con Delete
Electric Water Pump
STEED SPEED T3
GT3071 .63 Upgrade Spring 2012

Engine Management-
Haltech PS1000 Standalone ECU
Sequential Injection 1000cc Injectors
Direct Fire Ignition on AEM CDI Multi Strike
Full Control over Timing in 3D
Full Control over Fuel in 3D

Suspension-
-K-Sport RR Aluminum Coil Over suspension
AWR 21mm Anti Sway
AWR Adjustable Endlinks
Peddler Poly U Bushings in Control arm
GT Spec Braces

Brakes-
-K-Sport 14" 8 Piston Brake System (Front)
-K-Sport Hydraulic Hand brake
-12.5" MS6 Rear Brake conversion (K-Sport 13" 6 Piston Rear Upgrade Spring 2012)
-AN3 Stainless Teflon lines throughout

[Brian MP5T]

-Exterior
SPORT20 Front
SPORT20 Rear
SPORT20 Rear Lights
Black Headlights (Upgrade Spring 2012)
35% Tint

-Transmission
Quaife ATB LSD
TWM Short Shifter
TWM Leopard Ball
TWM Shifter Bushings
SPEC Stage III Clutch Disk
SPEC Stage III P Plate
SPEC 6.8 Lb Flywheel
PAR STRAIGHT CUT GEARS Set Specified Ratios (2.500, 1.550, 1.100, 0.770, 0.650 Final 4.105) Top Gear Limited Speed 300 Km/h

[Brian MP5T]

Plans For Spring 2012 (Will Update With Pictures)

- New Turbo
- Taller Gears
- 13" Brakes in the Rear
- New Drive shafts
- Install Speed Reference Sensor
- Install Electric Cooling System
- Aluminum Ex System from Mid Car back
- CF Diffuser front to rear

[Raider]

I have enjoyed seeing your car for so many years, back on 23/6...

Totally jealous of it, and as posted before, it makes me miss my p5, sometimes. Glad to see ya on here too...

[Brian MP5T]

Originally Posted by Monotonous ONE LEDS

No Fucking Way.. If I wanted to drive a UFO... I would have built one...

Originally Posted by 240mazspd3 vids of races on a roll

Roger.. New in the Spring...

Originally Posted by Raider I have enjoyed seeing your car for so many years, back on 23/6... Totally jealous of it, and as posted before, it makes me miss my p5, sometimes. Glad to see ya on here too...

Thanks man, someone has to Rock The Protege, I just have too much time invested in this car to let someone else have it, plus I believe that I am really the only person that can maintain it and keep it on the road. I have first hand experience from 8 years of driving it. I know all the sounds and quirks of the car.

[Mizzle]

Not to mention some rich asshole kid would buy it and beat it to piss.
Or "modify it to teh next LEVELLLL," or some gay shit and end up in magazines for adding paint or something gay.

[Brian MP5T]

Originally Posted by Mizzle Not to mention some rich asshole kid would buy it and beat it to piss. Or "modify it to teh next LEVELLLL," or some gay shit and end up in magazines for adding paint or something gay.

Yeah, paint and lights are fucking irrelevant to me, I have already proven that you don't need that shit to be published.

[Shanems3]

car looks bad ass, just like i remember it from years ago... I remember reading about it when you were building it.. definatly inspired me to build my 2000 pro... and now in a 08 MS3...

[Brian MP5T]

Originally Posted by silverspd3 is this ur car in 2 peices? Reference Shots :: IMG_1605.jpg picture by brianmp5t - Photobucket

No, that is a Sport 20 from Japan that was imported by a friend of mine who wanted it because it is a 4WD Protege..

Mine is fully together.

Originally Posted by Shanems3 car looks bad ass, just like i remember it from years ago... I remember reading about it when you were building it.. defiantly inspired me to build my 2000 pro... and now in a 08 MS3...

Thanks, it's always awesome to hear things like that. I love hearing that I'm not the only one who is excited about modifying, and I like helping others reach their goals.

[Brian MP5T]

So I am in Afghanistan but here is an Update... Sorry it will be hard to make sense of because it is actually 10 Posts that have been CTRL+C CTRL+V...

-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-=-

Parts for the spring...

6x Solid State Relay SSR 5-220V DC, 40A + Heat Sink (Electric Water Pump, Fal Cooling Fan, Fuel Pump, Master Relay for Haltech, HID Headlights, Spare)



10x 6 Position 35A 600V Terminal Block with Clear Cover

8x 12 Position 35A 600V Terminal Block with Clear Cover

(Looks like this but wider with more terminals)


Rewiring the monster, I tried not to rush when it was all installed the first time, but it's really hard to work on and makes no sense.

The entire dash will be removed so that I have full access to the firewall...


100ft Red 14ga
100ft Red 18ga
25ft Red 10 ga (Electric Water Pump)

100ft Black 14ga
100ft Black 18ga
25ft Black 10 ga (Electric Water Pump)

50ft Yellow 14ga
50ft Yellow 18ga
50ft Blue 14ga
50ft Blue 18ga
50ft White 14ga
50ft White 18ga
50ft Orange 18ga
50ft Brown 18ga
50ft Pink 18ga
50ft Green 18ga

14" Disk
8 Piston Caliper



Today I picked up a couple hundred dollars in Russell Fittings and Stainless Steel Braided hoses ranging from 1/4 Inch to 1.25 Inch.

This will make up the Electric Cooling system in MP5T.

The pump will be mounted after the engine, but will pump reverse (Down from the Head to the Block)

The benefits are well documented, the only negatives are that it is difficult to remove air from the system unless a surge tank is added and various hoses are run to allow the air at the top to be replaced with coolant.

The rad cap on the radiator will be removed and replaced with an aluminum plate TIG welded in place.

A 28 Ounce surge tank with a 25 PSI cap will replace the OEM located rad cap.

The top and bottom of the Radiator already have AN6 and AN8 provisions for such a design. They let air leave the top of the rad to the surge tank where it is vented out and replaced with Draw In Coolant from a reservoir.

The system is loosely based off of most VW and Porsche systems, where the reservoir is where the cap is..

The Mezire 45 Gal/Min Electric pump will be mounted inside the firewall and will draw coolant from the top driver side of the radiator (thus why it is imperative that there is no air there..) and force it into the top of the motor with an AN16 SS Hose.

The coolant Temp sensor will have to be moved to the opposite side of the motor.
The Stock water pump (Belt Driven) is being removed and replaced with a 1/2 Inch Aluminum block plate, thus freeing up more HP to drive the transmission. The Coolant sensor will sit in this plate to give an accurate reading.

The Haltech in conjunction with two solid state relays will drive the Electric Pump and Electric Fan on a variable duty cycle by pulsing the power.

There is NO MECHANICAL THERMOSTAT in this system to regulate the temperature. The Haltech is now the thermostat.

Eg.
Below 50 DegC, the pump will run 5% and the Fan will be off.
Below 60 DegC the pump will run 5% and the Fan will be off.
Below 70 DegC the pump will run 5% and the fan will be off.
Below 80 DegC the pump will run 10% and the fan will be off.
Below 90 DegC the pump will run 15% and he fan will run 10%.
Below 100 DegC the pump will run 20% and the fan will run 15%.
Above 100 DegC (Target Operating Temp) the pump will gradually run to 50% and the fan will gradually run to 75% to hold below 105 DegC
Above 108 DegC (Over Target) the Pump and fan will run 75%.
Above 115 DegC (Well Over Target) the pump will run 80% and the fan will be 100%

There should never be a reason to run the pump over 50%, it is intended for use on Supercharged V8 Monsters 45 Gal/Min.

Note at 100 to 105 the pump will be totally aggressive. I believe that I will literally see the pump duty cycle on the laptop rage between 20 and 50 as the temp goes up and down by 2 Degrees. If the pump alone is not able to remove heat (Stuck In Traffic) then the fan becomes much more active as well.

A manual override will put both pump and fan at 100% on a switch, which is good for problems, or as you are approaching the house to kill engine temps before parking, or kill engine temps when staging.

The entire system is focused on freeing up HP and making the cooling system more effective at holding a solid operating temperature.

I need this so that I can tune the car for one temperature and have it hold there.



The Protege uses a VR sensor on 4 corners for Speed and ABS.

Aftermarket ECUs need a Hall Effect Signal and cant operate on the weak signal of a VR sensor.

I am going to use "Clutch Speed Sensor Kit"

PCS - Powertrain Control Solutions - Data Logging Sensors & Accessories





Road Speed Sensor Hall Effect solution for MP5T.

On the driveshafts where it meets the Transmission there is a Cylindrical Attachment that is the Constant Velocity joint.

My plan is to drill the tiny rare earth 1/4" magnet into this part and mount a Hall Effect sensor on Both Sides of the transmission.

The calibration process is very simple, you tell the Haltech how much distance is traveled for each pulse.
You also tell the Haltech what the Gear Ratios are and it will automatically look at the Ratio between RPM/SPEED and display what gear you are in (When Moving). If the ratio does not make sense to the Haltech, It will assume that you have the clutch depressed and will display a flashing "N" in the gear display on the IQ3.

The Haltech will register Clutch Slip as well as Single Wheel spin if it has both sides logged.

I will be able to use the Gear Indicator and log in greater detail.


The magnet is only a 1/4" Cylinder that is 6mm Tall. The kit comes with a cobalt drill that is sized to match the magnets tight fit. It has to be pressed in or tapped in with a rubber hammer. They recommend that Epoxy (High Temp) be used to hold the magnet in place. There are several spare magnets in the kit so if the improbable happens, it can be replaced.

I believe that the pulling force that the magnet will see from road speed conditions will be quite low due to the size of the drive shaft and the small mass of the magnet.

In the picture of the driveshaft, on the left side is where it would go into the transmission. That CV joint is where the 3mm deep hole would be drilled to mount the magnet. The Sensor comes with several brackets to aid in mounting the sensor in the right geometry and distance from the sensor. I plan to mount the bracket on the aluminum transmission case just over the driveshaft.

OMFG This is AWESOME!

Brian, No problem on your designed Digital Pulse Output request. Engineering's response below: Dear Eric, I have a created an issue for the Sport to add Coolant and Air Temperature to the axis selection of the Generic Duty Output Table. Issue #5028 This will allow a 32 x 32 table to be available for your customer. I will try and have this done for v1.09, but there is a good chance it will not get completed until v1.10. There is still a large amount of work we still have to do for v1.09 and time is running out. Kind regards, Nathan Clark R&D Manager -Eric Gash Haltech USA

Here is a graph showing how I think they might work as a Thermostat..



So the MP5T plan for the spring just got a bit better.

I am planning to get a set of PAR Straight Cut Gears for the MP5T

The stock gear ratios in the protege are truly too low for the engine that I have.

3000 RPM is like 105 ish Km/h
4000 RPM is like 125 ish Km/h
and with a stock red line of 6500. and power falling off around 6000, you see that to do any sort of long distance driving at any slightly higher than legal speed is truly just painful. The engine is turning too fast for nothing with no need to downshift, just plant the gas to the floor and your GONE, then you are begging for 6th gear.

The research now is just looking at a taller 5th gear, but the problem with that is that the 4th is very short, so downshifting from 5th will be a mis match, shooting the tach through the top.

The next step is looking at a taller final drive which would bring the entire range taller, and then adding a slightly taller 5th.



I have updated the plan.

With the PAR gears, like the middle, the car would accelerate to 160 Km/h in 3rd gear and on to well over 270Km/h before I believe it will be held by wind resistance. The gears are $4300 plus a new LSD so I want to get the ratios correct.



Photoshop Stuff.

Decided to vector a picture of the car..

The actual picture is 50+Mb in size but I have reduced it here.

It's been printed at work 36x50 Inches.

[Brian MP5T]

^^ Thanks...That is what I was trying to make actually, so the fact that you mentioned it tells me that you are intuitive..


PS. The highest was 410WHP but then the clutch failed.

I am in Afghanistan now with plans as detailed earlier in the thread..

Full rebuild of all moving parts from engine, trans, driveshafts, wheel bearings, suspension.

[FantasmoNegro]

Nice power, nothing to be ashamed of. I have seen a million and one show cars that have 1000hp worth parts and only make 300 at the wheels. Not saying that is the case with your car especially if you are above 400 at the wheels. I just think even if your car is a show car, without proof of function all it is is a pile of parts thrown together.

[Brian MP5T]

It is not a Show Car.

If it was I would have a 5000Lb Stereo and 1 Psi Turbo.

I have only entered 2 Car Shows, and won my class in both, plus won "Best Engine" or "Best Performance"

The car weighs only 2280Lbs, which is -600Lbs than Stock and makes 4x More HP than Stock.

That coupled with a 3.5:1 final drive that is gear limited at 310 Km/h... you see what I am getting at.

I am not in the business of gay "Show Cars"... I put the money into Go Fast parts and leave the rest in the dumpster where they belong.

[FantasmoNegro]

Originally Posted by Brian MP5T It is not a Show Car. If it was I would have a 5000Lb Stereo and 1 Psi Turbo. I have only entered 2 Car Shows, and won my class in both, plus won "Best Engine" or "Best Performance" The car weighs only 2280Lbs, which is -600Lbs than Stock and makes 4x More HP than Stock. That coupled with a 3.5:1 final drive that is gear limited at 310 Km/h... you see what I am getting at. I am not in the business of gay "Show Cars"... I put the money into Go Fast parts and leave the rest in the dumpster where they belong.

Hell yeah bro, you got my respect.

[Brian MP5T]

So an Update on the charging system.

Stock P5, well stock almost anything, requires the ECU to operate modern alternators. The regulator function is in the ECU.

The solution was a 1991 626 Alternator, it has an internal regulator and the same case as the 3rd Gen Protege alternator.

This would let you physically remove the ECU 100% and run off the standalone.

It worked, however I have gone through several alternators which is costly. I also noticed that the alternator is supposed to be an 80 Amp. But If my lights were on and the fan kicked in, the voltage would go from 14.4 to 13.5 and then drop.

I am adding an electric water pump which will be on all of the time. I needed a final solution that was reliable and easy to replace.

Search for "One Wire Alternator"

It is an older very reliable solution. It automatically activates the field once it goes above 200 RPM. The only negative is that it is a non standard size.

I have removed all pulleys including the water pump so I have the entire front and back of the engine free. The plan is to attach the alternator to the front of the motor simply due to ease of access.

The bracket will be easy to fabricate and the Ford style alternator that I have selected has been used for the past 24 years. Should be an Off The Shelf part for years to come.

They are under $120.00 and range from 100Amps to 200Amps.

[Brian MP5T]

Here is a shot of the $200.00 LSD I got on E-Bay

Only thing is the Speedo gear is pooched but is being removed and not used.

Not bad at all, still has the Hypoid on it.

[Brian MP5T]

So A Consolidated list of the work being done in the spring.

- Engine: Block and Head are being Tanked. Crank removed and balanced to the new Arias Ceramic& Teflon coated 8.5:1 Pistons and Pauter forged Rods. The Cylinders are being resurfaced to the size of the slight 0.2 overbore pistons. Clevite Bearings. ARP Main Studs. Cometic Head Gasket. New Valve seals, Resurface contact point for valve seat.

- Transmission: Full removal of contents of a second transmission. A Full set of straight cut PAR Engineering gears. Double Syncros. Gear ratios extended such that new 1st gear is as tall as stock 2nd, New 2nd is as tall as stock 3rd... etc.... giving a 5th gear top speed of 310 Km/h at 7000 RPM. 3.5:1 final drive, Quaife Helical LSD. ARP Bolts. SPEC Stage 3+ Solid Clutch & Pressure Plate 425Ft/Lb Clamp. Spec 6.8Lb Flywheel. ARP Flywheel Bolts. ShaftMaster Drive shafts. New Front Bearings, New Poly_U bushings on hubs. SS Clutch Lines, New Clutch Master, Clutch Servo.

- Brakes: 14" K-SPORT 8 Piston Brakes (1.28 Cm Clearance inside an 18" Rim). New Brake Master, SS Lines. MS6 Rear Big Brake Conversion

- Electrical: Complete re installation of wiring with Solid State Relays and custom Fuse Panel. Re-Location of 11Lb Braile Battery inside the dash behind the firewall closest to the starter. Custom bracket for 110 Amp "Tuff Stuff" One wire Ford alternator on front of engine.
Install Variable Electric Pump Control and Variable Electric Cooling Fan Control.

- Water Cooling: Install Mezire 45 Gal/m Electric water pump with Russel Fitting on Stainless Braided Quick disconnect hoses. Remove stock mechanical water pump and replace with a blocking plate. Install a Coolant remote container, and coolant overflow.

- Suspension: Remove TIEN SS Suspension (160,000Km) and install new K-SPORT Coilovers. Replace all Bushings in rear AWR 21mm Bar, and rear suspension.

- Fuel Delivery: New Aeromotive Haltech controlled Electronic Fuel Pressure Regulator (65 PSI under boost, 40 at idle).

- Sensors: Hall Effect Shaft Speed sensors on both front drive shafts.

- Body: Paint Front and Rear Bumpers from a JDM SPORT-20 and Install. Remove Stickers from running boards and repaint. Repaint Both A-Pillars.

- Exhaust: Reposition APEX-i N1 6" shorter due to the JDM bumper being 6" shorter.

- Ignition: AEM CDI Twin Fire Direct Coil On Plug. System Will fire several sparks at once.

All this should be a 15 Grand "Freshen Up" on MP5T to start up Spring 2011.

I will point out... None of that money is wasted on stupid stereo, lights or other shit that does not make the car move. This is Not A Show Car.

[Brian MP5T]

Fuck It.


I read the CT-Net review and it's the Fucking BOMB..

E-Bay, $240.00 Free Shipping from Montreal...

Done... Cant wait for Lapping Day...

[Brian MP5T]

Here is a spreadsheet detailing the results of the research for the PAR Gears

I wanted to get this perfect because

1. They are F-ing Expensive
2. It can greatly and negatively alter the performance/behavior of the car.

I will post now to reduce the confusion.. I am not worried in the least about making the gears taller and thus on paper making the car technically accelerate slower. I have researched at great length and I believe that any negative will be totally killed by the fact that I can be in a lower gear much much longer. Torque will overcome all, plus the car is still limited to traction, which will be dealt with by wide tires and a Quaife.

[Brian MP5T]

This might make it easier to see what is going on with the ratios as well.

[Brian MP5T]

So I did a Photoshop of the 14" Disks K-Sport BBK in the front and 13" in the rear.. I think it's going to look fucking SICK in the spring. I'm really excited.

[Monotonous ONE]

you know your car doesnt look real over the top on the outside


it must be fun to embarrass unsuspecting people on a regular basis




new gears look like they will be much more fun to ride out

congrats...fucking SICK car

[Brian MP5T]

Thanks very much. It is not too hard to leave the Body Kits and shit off the car.. It really pisses me off when I see a car that has $5000 in Paint and Fiberglass, and a rusted POS stock engine with a section of dryer hose attached to the intake.

The stickers are off already, they were cooler in 2002, Aside from the Painted CF Hood that is different and the Rims... The Brakes are going to be the first "Really Serious Indicator" that there must be some crazy shit under the hood... People normally don't spend $2000+ just on front brakes... Never mind, a BBK for the rear, and have a stock engine. The pedal is literally a detonator. I miss that car when the snow comes.. and then Spring Plans take over during the winter months....

[Brian MP5T]

Order Went on the 18th, and payment was taken today....

It's Official, I am the owner of some really "Specific Gears"

$4000.00

-=-=-=-=-=-=-

The Stock Ratios were as Follows.

3.370
1.833
1.310
1.030
0.795

With a Final of 4.105

The New Gears are as Follows

2.500
1.550
1.100
0.770
0.650

With the same final of 4.105

You will notice that the lower the number, the taller the gear is. You will see that 1st gear has been drastically extended and the car will be able to do 40 MPH in 1st gear at 6000 RPM..

The 3000 RPM Speeds for each gear are as follows (Miles Per Hour)

20.1 MPH 1st 3000
32.4 MPH 2nd 3000 RPM
45.6 MPH 3rd 3000 RPM
65.2 MPH 4th 3000 RPM
78.2 MPH 5th 3000 RPM

The 6000 RPM Speeds for each gear are as follows.

40.2 MPH 1st 6000
64.8 MPH 2nd 6000
91.3 MPH 3rd 6000
130.4 MPH 4th 6000
154.5 MPH 5th 6000

The Top Gear 7000 RPM Geared Speed is 187.2 MPH

[Raider]

Fucking Christ you have gone insane. OK, that said, the P5 has needed a 6th gear forever, one of the few things I hated about mine. Your gearing just resolved it. Now you only will need 3 gears for most driving, lol.

[Brian MP5T]

Originally Posted by Raider Fucking Christ you have gone insane. OK, that said, the P5 has needed a 6th gear forever, one of the few things I hated about mine. Your gearing just resolved it. Now you only will need 3 gears for most driving, lol.

Yes, Now multiply the stock problem with adding 400 HP.

60 MPH is normally 3000 RPM.. Push the throttle without a downshift and the tach goes 4000, 5000, 6000 in about 7 seconds... Then What... I have a choice... I can shut down, or destroy my engine... Even just driving the car at 70 MPH seems unpleasant due to the high RPM...

I should be able to take tight on ramps in 2nd gear and 3rd will take me to highway speeds. Most driving at 60 ish MPH will be in 4th, or if flow of traffic is 70 to 75, I will be low revs in 5th..

[Raider]

If I ever make it up in your area, I will absolutely need to meet you and see your car. Just unreal devotion to re-create a cool car using better everything.

[Brian MP5T]

I plan to participate at the Texas Mile in October of this year. (Obviously, I have planned out a way to make a P5 a legit competitor)

I remember FL and TX are Close...

If I am willing to drive from Ottawa to Texas... that is probably the closest we will be.

There will no doubt be many threads and Posts in the Mid summer, once I get this running again...

I have stopped using the word "If" in my vocabulary...

After all that I have done to the car, I know in my mind even before I decide to do something, that I will problem solve an issue, come up with a solution, alter the plan, decide on the parts, Modify the Plan, Modify the parts, Order the Parts, Mock Up the Plan, Modify the Mock Up, Install, Test, Alter.

Installing a Haltech SP1000 in Spring of 2009, should have been an EPIC FAIL.

I approached it Part By Part, and then Self Tuned it from a Flat Empty Map.

There is no better school than "Need", there is never anyone else who will magically fix these sort of problems, and if you leave the parts in a dark garage for a week... they don't just install and tune themselves.

Many Hours Installing and a factor of X10 on the time researching, reading and learning.

I love this hobby...

[Brian MP5T]

Upgrading to a GT30 72.6mm 56 Trim 0.60AR

Turbo is well suited for 2.0L Engines with a 300 - 500 HP Target. I have looked into how that will change the boost threshold and it Will make the car slightly "Late" in boost compared to the current turbo which is a GT28RS.

All that with the Upgraded Transmission, Huge Clutch and a car that is only 2280 Lbs... Awesome Summer Driving..

Currently the turbo Builds as of 2750 RPM and anything over 3000 is an immediate lag less climb into high boost. My math is saying that it will be 3050 RPM before it will build 1 psi, and 3500 ish to get the same lag less climb.

[mazpro]

I followed your original build over @ 247 and I'm glad its still running and being improved. Great work man.

[Brian MP5T]

I am building a Monster Protege!

Eventually, by the spring, it should be basically Untouchable on the road.

It will Have Acceleration, Cornering, Braking Power and Top Speed Covered...

[Mizzle]

Plus, with it taking 3k to build boost, you should get really good in-town mileage as well. Great for cruises.

[Brian MP5T]

Originally Posted by Mizzle Plus, with it taking 3k to build boost, you should get really good in-town mileage as well. Great for cruises.

I think that with the gearing the way it is, I will be able to drive in town in 1st or 2nd only anyway..

[Brian MP5T]

So Haltech is awesome, they not only answer E-Mails quickly, they also modify the Software/Firmware to add features that you request.

The electric cooling system consists of a ECU Controlled Coolant Pump and an ECU Controlled FAL Flex-Lite fan.

Both of these are driven by a Solid State Relay. The ECU is able to vary the speed of the Pump and Fan, by pulsing a 12v signal many times per second. The longer the pulse, the closer the item will get to it's full speed.

Because the signal is Pulsed, the device can be made to run at very low speeds.

The Haltech team were able to make a 32x32 user programmable Generic Duty Cycle Table. Each Output can have it's own map.

X and Y and can be changed to any of the following.

Speed Sensor, RPM, MAP, Oil Temp, Oil Pressure, Gear, Air Temp, Fuel Temp, Coolant Temp, Gear Selected, EGT, AFR... Almost any situation can trigger the output.

I have Engine Temperature and Load as the X-Y with Duty Cycle as the Output. The ECU has 8 Outputs of this nature, so other possibilities is a transmission cooling system, Additional Cooling Fans, Automatic Intercooler Sprayers (IAT=On/Off Spray). Literally Awesome Support.

Here is what it will look like.



A Note: There is no mechanical thermostat, the pump duty cycle is the thermostat.

You will notice that the pump will gradually increase as I get close to the target of 95 Deg to 100 Deg. If the coolant goes over the target, then the pump will aggressively drop the temperature. The Fan will work with the pump to control the engine temperature.

I believe that there will be some changes to the maps to make the balance between Fan and Pump requirements perfect.

The point is to make the system only use the power required to maintain the engine temperature.

If the car is blasting down the highway on a cold day, it is likely that the pump will not go over 40% which is a 0.70 Amp load.

BONUS MARKS FOR THE ONE THAT CORRECTLY EXPLAINS WHY I WOULD WANT A BLOCK OF 90% NUMBERS IN THE MIDDLE OF THAT MAP

[Brian MP5T]

Originally Posted by Tokay444 You wanna the cycle the coolant rapidly around those temps to bring it all up to operating temp?

Close but that would prevent the car from reaching that temp...

The system will not be tied to the engine RPM like a normal system.

When I first start the motor I was going to have a switch that just made the coolant pump 100% to purge any small air bubbles out of the engine and move them to the top of the radiator.

Now once the car is started, It will idle at 20 Vac and warm up, but if I feel the need to purge the system, I can apply 10% throttle for a bit and it will spool up the pump.

Once the car is over 40 Deg, it will run normal.

[Brian MP5T]

[Brian MP5T]

So in Summer 2009, when I installed the Haltech and Re-Wired the entire car, I wired it so that the High beam could be turned on without the Low Beam. Simply by moving the indicator stock away would turn the beams on. I never used the high beams in two summers and that got me to thinking about using them as a DRL.

Here is the Result. I think it's pretty cool.

[Raider]

Pretty siick! Your p5 is ridiculous, FYI.

[Brian MP5T]

Originally Posted by Monotonous ONE YOU LIEEEEEEEEEEEEEEEE

Lol, Yes I have LED bulbs...


Not LED Underglow, Led Interior...

If I told you that the Bulbs were lighter than the Glass ones, would it be OK?

I was also looking at 55w x2 Silvania, vs 0.5w LED Bulbs...