MP5T

[Brian MP5T]

More work on the fuel system as I am waiting on some Brake Parts for the rear.

The AN6 Fittings were placed on the Rail, Plus the second fuel pressure sending unit has been attached to the rail.

I am impressed how "Beastly" the AN6 Looks, It's really huge and should be perfect. My Hopes are for a Leak Free test to 80 PSI Rail Pressure.

[Brian MP5T]

Minor Update.

Found a Place for the FPR. Attached some AN6 Fuel System.
Waiting on 3/8" Plugs for the FPR
Waiting on Fuel rail adapter.

Started to secure the fuel lines under the car... Notice how clean it is for a 10 Year old car...

[Mizzle]

Would you have any problems with rust where those self-tappers are going in? Either because you've gone clear through or the two different types of metals reacting, ya know?

[Brian MP5T]

Just got a tracking number from PAR Engineering. My Gear Set is on the way.

Custom Lay Shaft
Custom Output Shaft
Custom Ratio 1,2,3,4,5 Gears Much Taller across the set.
Needle Roller Bearings


Straight Cut Gears do not apply a transitional load (Side Load) to the Mazda Transmission case like the cross cut gears. This Transmission should be able to handle anything I can throw at it.

Side Note, The Transmission in MP5T is now worth more than my 2009 Mazda 3

[Brian MP5T]

Got the correct adapter for the Perrin or Stock Fuel Rail.

It converts the Hole to an AN6 Fitting.





Some of the brake parts...

The Brake Master is Metric, The majority of any aftermarket parts are not. They are 3/8" Flared. It is easy to find this stuff on E-Bay if you know exactly what you are looking for..








Got the WORK Lugs today. They are Fucking Light!

[Monotonous ONE]

your build is so insane...so intricate

fucking amazing to see

[Brian MP5T]

So, More parts came in today... The Lines will be done later Thursday and i should be back on the road as soon as the misc fuel parts come in.

[LinuxRacr]

Nice to see you still doing big things with your P5!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Brian MP5T]

Thanks, Big Things... Yeah, it's about all that is left.

I am sure that a point is reached in a build when things like super light rims go from being "not needed" or "too expensive for too little gain", to a must needed logical upgrade.

I think that the car will actually scare me this summer, it's always been fun to drve, and by no means do I think It is missing something safe. Just that it is so light and so quick...

I think that it is going to require a constant effort to drive the car on the part of the driver.
Thanks for checking in on it.

[Brian MP5T]

Super Cool Parcel arrived today.

The Transmission parts, Custom 1,2,3,4,5th and Shaft.








I'll put some other pictures up later..

Here are some more Brake Pictures.





Really need to drop the front about 1" on Friday.

[Mizzle]

Have you given any thoughts to CF body panels (eg. rear hatch,) and added downforce given the power?

[Tokay444]

Silver tint must go. I think you mentioned you're getting rid of it.
That's going to be a loud transmission. Lol. Reminds me of multiple on board gt and rally car videos. Barely hearing engine rpm of an increasingly faster transmission whir.

[Brian MP5T]

Originally Posted by Mizzle Have you given any thoughts to CF body panels (eg. rear hatch,) and added downforce given the power?

I'm going to work on getting it to run and recovering from the $4200.00 for the gears, $1000 for the assemble and $500 for the Bearings and Synchros before I start to worry about stuff like under body panels.

I will not CF the Rear unless I remove the entire rear and replace it, So No Skin. and I personally think that CF on a Car looks like Shit so it would be painted white. I already have a CF Hood and it's painted white.

If I do anything, I will get someone to English Wheel a custom aluminum rear under panel, but that is like a next year thing.

Originally Posted by Tokay444 Silver tint must go. I think you mentioned you're getting rid of it. That's going to be a loud transmission. Lol. Reminds me of multiple on board gt and rally car videos. Barely hearing engine rpm of an increasingly faster transmission whir.

I am Totally Ok With the car making that noise. It is just one more thing that is a bit louder, but much better than stock.

[Brian MP5T]

The Front Wheel gap has been reduced. My Plan today is to get the rear brakes hooked up completely, except the fitting that goes from the Brake Bias to the Handbrake. It is an Odd Size and is special ordered from a place in the UK.

Here is what the trans looks like shipped.



and what the shaft looks like.

[Tokay444]

This is the most extensive build I've ever actually followed. Kudos for not leaving the hood nude carbon fibre. Much classier.

[Brian MP5T]

Update.

Sunchros are ordered and being delivered on Thursday Morning.

I am going to Helicoil the Aluminum Flywheel so that the Pressure Plate bolts don't pull out at the proper torque.

A New rod was ordered from Pauter, I can not express how professional that company is. I barraged them with repeated phone calls. The Rod was boxed up and shipped in under two hours.!

Here is a series of pictures of Front and Back for the gear set.

[Lex]

Kudos for doing the build right and addressing the weak motor and G5 transmission in these cars.

I do have one question - out of all the more capable chassis' to throw mad cash at - why a fwd econobox? No matter how good your drivetrain the chassis dynamics, weight distribution, suspension geometry will not fully exploit the power the car will make. Seems money is no issue anyhow so why not start with a well balanced rwd chassis?

[Brian MP5T]

Start...

That is the answer..

I started in 2002, back then perhaps I would have started with something else. But honestly, The P5 has issues that are totally easy to deal with compared to other cars.

Weak Rods.
Weak Transmission.
Horrible ECU.

The Chassis is light and solid.
The Aftermarket parts were easy to find, and the platform had some really great support due to the MSP.

I would rather have the most insane Protege 5 on the planet, than be some other HOMO with a 500WHP Mustang...

The car is my School, The money is obviously irrelevant to me or I would not do it.

I love this car, I love driving this car, I love working on this car and for anyone who has ever said that over 200 HP in a FWD car is useless... They are Simply Wrong, that 425 HP will do just fine from 100 Km/h - 300 Km/h.

Late Brake, High Corner Entry Speeds, Limitless Grip...



Imagine Jaws On The Floor in the other car as I literally "Fuck Off" down the road and there is nothing that can be done to keep up.

[Brian MP5T]

Yes and No...

http://i928.photobucket.com/albums/a...011/PAR-28.jpg

No they are not irrelevant.. But they are being honed out again before installed.. so Yes.

[Brian MP5T]

Some Head and a shot of the two engines.

[Raider]

Sweet. As always...

[Tokay444]

You make me want to buy a second disi just to build.

[Brian MP5T]

So I said I was not going to do this... But Wiring has begun..

WHAT A PITA!

[signature sound]

Good to see the wiring started. I have been waiting for this to see how the relays go in. Hopefully you will be as detailed with it as the rest of the build? Good job and cant wait to see the dyno plot you put down with everything together. My curiosity is about the gear ratios changing how the turbo spools and how the car drives.

[Brian MP5T]

So the Wiring is mostly done. It's nice having NOTHING to hook up to it.

I consolidated all the A-Pillar into Two Wires, + and -. The Pillar comes on with the Key, Nothing in the car will work without the Key in and turned to Run.

There are some shots of the Solid State Relays, They Make a little bit of heat if they are really loaded down, They are rated for 40 Amps at 200 Volts. I believe that the 10 Amp load at 14 Volts for the Pump will be fine.

I used them for most items in the car, except the brake lights, they are still on a standard Relay... I like the click Sound when the pedal is pushed. it's reassuring that the system works.

Anyone who never believed me that the car is 2280 Lbs Dry... You can clearly see, there is NOTHING in the dash.

There is a picture of a black box with black hoses. That is the Idle Control motor. It is controlled by the ECU and is plumbed into the intake manifold.

[Brian MP5T]

So the project continues to teach me new things.

Teflon Tape and Fuel do not play nice.

My Fuel system fittings have been removed, cleaned dry and then resealed with LOCTITE 545

http://www.loctite.sg/sea/content_da...NEWCA454EN.pdf



The Wiring is basically done, I have to Power the injectors which will take 10 Min to do, and Wire in the rest of the AEM Ignition system. I believe that I will have the car running today, but I will have to see when the brake fitting is in to actually drive the car.

Once I am satisfied that the brakes and the other 15 things I did to the car is working well. I will

-Mock up the bracket for the new alternator (One Wire)
-Assemble the new engine
-Install Clutch and Flywheel
-Attach it to the transmission

Install both in the car ready for the summer!

[Brian MP5T]

So Went to Montreal for the Transmission and the Engine.

Super Anti Climatic results for the transmission... It looks totally NORMAL...

I am interested to fire it through a couple of gear changes to see if all that research paid off in a set of viable ratios..




I`m going to update the Engine How To in the morning..

[Brian MP5T]

Finally got the car out of the Garage and on the Road today.

Massive Rubbing from the 225/40/18, I will come up with some solution.

The Brakes are Silly. PERIOD!

The new Ignition system works great.

Fit and Finish. Leaking Fittings here and there..

Waiting on some more brake fittings to finish the install.

[Brian MP5T]

Sunday Morning Update:

Because the fuel pressure overall was increased, the Fuel delivery map would obviously be too rich across the board. Spent about 20 Minutes in the garage doing Zero Km/h and literally got the fuel map at idle/Warm and idle/Cold Dialed in 100%.

It starts and runs like OEM. I am really happy that I did this because its really the logical thing to do before retuning the entire map. The first time I got the car running on the Haltech in 2008, I was so excited to drive the car, that I ended up driving and tuning the car for a day, then set the base idle proper and then re-tuned the car. A bit of a waste of time, but still a learning experience. I will say that having the Haltech for two years, Tuning now takes minutes rather than hours. Having now more information and experience makes it second nature to get the results you want.


SOLID STATE RELAY UPDATE: I am still running on a mechanical water pump, Original forged motor and original trans. I want to get the little leaks and issues done, before the engine goes in. It will take probably only 4 hours to do the swap. None of the bolts are rusted and I have almost nothing to do on the motor once it is installed.

I was however able to get the variable cooling fan to work today, and I will use my results to make the cooling pump work better faster.

The Haltech is able to control the fans based on target temperature. I used to have it simply come on at 90 Degrees C. It used to be a huge load on the electrical system and the engine temperature would rise very fast when parked, then drop 5 Deg in 5 Seconds, the fan would switch off and then 10 seconds later it would be back on. This I believe Killed an Alternator in 2 weeks.

So the Haltech is able to control DPO. Digital Pulsed output. In short, it is able to strobe the output. If you want 10%, the flashes will be on for 10% and off for 90%.

You need a Solid State Relay to be able to handle the rapid on and off pulses. They have no moving parts and are able to deliver the load to the motor without failing.


Now when the car is stopped, the temperature will still rise, but when the target start is met, the fan will start to turn slowly and gradually a bit quicker. The temperature of the coolant will go one degree over and then hold. I am so happy with how the system works. Now wasted electricity, plus I can literally dial in a target operating temperature and it will actively HOLD that target.

[Brian MP5T]

Big weekend plans, Friday Night, Prepare and verify suspension settings, full alignment. Saturday. Full tear down of original Forged motor/trans. Saturday night, Install of New forged motor, 425 Ft/lb clutch, 6lb Flywheel, Straight Cut Transmission and new driveshafts.

[Brian MP5T]

Alignment is Done

It's Fantastic,

Went for a 100 Km Drive and Tune.

Starting a Full Teardown of the Old Motor Tonight.

Should be together my 11:00 AM Saturday.


New Engine/Trans/Clutch/Flywheel are going in NOW.

[Brian MP5T]

11 PM

Stopping for the night, Cleaned the floor under the car, will be dry by 5 am..









Motor should be out by 9 AM

[Mizzle]

You should get professional photos done of your garage... so that when this ends up in a magazine, people can see where the magic happened.

[Brian MP5T]

Some shots of the Swap.

No real Drama.. Thanks Kyle for the help.. (KY Tuner)

























Bonus Marks if someone can tell me what my Base Boost is now with this spring Combo in a Tial 38mm

[Brian MP5T]

MP5T 2011 Ver 1.0

[Brian MP5T]

Anyone on Hwy 417, Hwy 401, Hwy 416... If you see MP5T get the hell into the slow lane even if you are speeding... MP5T will be on the road breaking in a New Engine and Transmission!

[Tokay444]

I'm in Kingston for the weekend. Doubt you're coming this far west...

[Raider]

Just an unreal build. Want.

[7mileshome]

23.2 psi spring pressure. How are you planning to run your boost control? Where are you getting your actuator signal from? (i.e. manifold or turbo compressor)

BTW.. amazing build, really looking forward to hearing the engine/transmission!

[Brian MP5T]

Originally Posted by 7mileshome 23.2 psi spring pressure. How are you planning to run your boost control? Where are you getting your actuator signal from? (i.e. manifold or turbo compressor) BTW.. amazing build, really looking forward to hearing the engine/transmission!

The EMS (Haltech) controls the pressure.

The Signal comes from the intake system, not the manifold.