HELP! P1680 code sputtering under heavy throttle

[alphamfc1]

I am having this issue with my 2008 MS3 and it is showing a code P1680 on the OBD2 scanner but NO CEL. I tried to google the P1680 code but it states that the code is different with each car maker. The car will sputter under heavy throttle(like if I push the pedal half way down right after I shift into the next gear) and misfire on cylinder #2 . My car however is NOT throwing a check engine light but if I drive it and push on the throttle a little hard it will sputter and then the light will come on for a misfire on #2 . After I clear the code and drive it normally it will sputter a little only but NO CODE EVEN WHEN I DRIVE IT ENOUGH TO GET THE MONITORS READY. The check engine light will only come on if I hit the throttle a little hard and engine sputters.

I did a dry compression test and i got 170 all across. I just installed 4 new coil packs, new spark plugs, and even changed out the CPS(crank position sensor). I even try switching the spark plugs and coil pack around and still having the same issue.

Before all of this happened my car was running fine until the ac compressor seized. I thought it was a coil, spark plug, or CPS problem so I changed them. I also changed out the MAF and still having the same problem. Now that I got the car running its sputtering and throwing this P1680 code.

Also note that my OEM boost controller broke and I went to the junkyard and found a CX-7 stock boost controller and installed it to replace my broken MS3 stock boost controller. I was using a grimspeed boost controller before. I don't know if the CX-7 boost controller could be the problem or not.

[Thor Hammer]

The EBCS on a CX-7 is the same as an MS3.

Is the MAF an OEM unit? If not, that can cause all sorts of issues.

What did you gap the plugs to?

[alphamfc1]

Originally Posted by Thor Hammer The EBCS on a CX-7 is the same as an MS3. Is the MAF an OEM unit? If not, that can cause all sorts of issues. What did you gap the plugs to?

Spark plugs are gaped at 0.032 and the MAF is a OEM one that came with the car

Originally Posted by Fstrnyou Check all your fuses.

Will do so this week...thanks

[Thor Hammer]

Originally Posted by alphamfc1 Spark plugs are gaped at 0.032 and the MAF is a OEM one that came with the car Will do so this week...thanks

Pull the plugs and gap them to 0.027"

[Fstrnyou]

Check all your fuses.

[aeonpsych]

I can't remember where I read this (someone on this forum posted this) that there is a revised spark plug gap for the speed 3 to 22-25 IIRC, and not 32.

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by aeonpsych I can't remember where I read this (someone on this forum posted this) that there is a revised spark plug gap for the speed 3 to 22-25 IIRC, and not 32.

0.024" to 0.027", actually.

[Fstrnyou]

I think the revised gap is .028"

[aeonpsych]

oh, ok. For some reason, mine is gaped to 25 then. Ran better this way from when I had it before at 32, so idk lol.

[Fstrnyou]

I'm running 20 now, I think.

[Jeff23spl]

Smaller gap help cars with more boost but factory boost should work at 0.028''

Since you played with the EBCS, Do you have a boost gage and did you made sure that the sputter isn't an overboost because of lower temperature outside?
The oem boost limit is set somewhere around 18.xx psi...

missfire isn't always coming from the spark, you discarted compression and probably valve timing too but it could be your intake valves that get too much dirty.

How old is your timing chain and VVT ? you could check slack from the oil cap hole.

From some googling for Mazda p1680, it return something about oil pressure...i wish you that the list is bad...
https://www.engine-light-help.com/ma...ine-light.html

Can you distinguish sputter from missfire and engine cut sputter to be able to separate which one is happening ? If ECU see too much boost boost or too much voltage from the MAF, it cut just once for at least 1-2 seconds like if you turn the key off under load. Missfire tend to make faster cut like rolling too fast over a speed bump but more than once each time....

[aeonpsych]

I stand correct(ed) [Edited] on the spark gap. Either way, It's still not 32, let alone even in the 30s lol

[Fstrnyou]

OP, what specific plugs are you using?

[alphamfc1]

QUICK UPDATE:

I am running NGK Iridium plugs gaped at .025. As I mentioned earlier I bought ALL FOUR NEW COIL PACKS and CPS(Crank position sensor) from Ebay. Also I forgot to mention I took my AC compressor off due the clutch being burnt and is running a AC bypass(bypass is working just fine). NO CEL by the way.

So today I used a multi meter to test ALL my NEW coil packs. I turned the multi meter to 2000k ohm reading. Using the picture below I tested A and C and then B and C and got a reading of around 770-780 ohms on all four coil packs. When I tested A and B I got a reading of 002 ohms on all four.



However when I tested my OEM ones doing the same process I got 1500 testing A and C and B and C. When testing A and B I got the same 002 reading.

I switched back all OEM coil pack and now the car runs fine. No misfiring but I do hear a little backfiring after I rev up the engine a little and the code C1680 along with U0000 is showing up now but NO CEL. Both code are showing PENDING only. I am not too sure if the the code are popping up due to the AC clutch switch not being plugged up.

I am going to drive the car and get the monitors ready to see if I am still having the same issue. I will keep you guys posted. Thanks for the HELP so far and your advises.

[alphamfc1]

UPDATE:

Since I live in California I took the car to go get smogged and it passed even though it had those two pending codes. I am thinking the NEW coil packs are no good and will stick with my OEM ones or buy OEM coil packs down the road. This car has to be the WORST car I have ever owned and has given me the most problems LOL. Now on to fixing the passenger side lock mechanism and replacing the burnt AC clutch...smh

[Jeff23spl]

Before bashing on the car, keep in mind you drive a 12 years old car...somewhere between restored antique and what peoples usually drive...You even get the model bought to be abused...Sorry, but you don't buy a speed with reliability in mind, unless you get it brand new (not possible anymore) You have to live with the abuse of the previous owner....I don't know if you just get it or drive it for years but inspection before buying is also very important....

Take it easy, you didn't even replace the engine or the turbo yet....lol

To get back to your coils, the igniter is built in so it get hard to test them with a multi meter or with a voltage leak tester. You need to run them to see...

You may check for corrosion where the spring connect to the coil head by removing the insulation boot to see.

[alphamfc1]

Originally Posted by Jeff23spl Before bashing on the car, keep in mind you drive a 12 years old car...somewhere between restored antique and what peoples usually drive...You even get the model bought to be abused...Sorry, but you don't buy a speed with reliability in mind, unless you get it brand new (not possible anymore) You have to live with the abuse of the previous owner....I don't know if you just get it or drive it for years but inspection before buying is also very important.... Take it easy, you didn't even replace the engine or the turbo yet....lol To get back to your coils, the igniter is built in so it get hard to test them with a multi meter or with a voltage leak tester. You need to run them to see... You may check for corrosion where the spring connect to the coil head by removing the insulation boot to see.

I agree I am living with a car that has been abused by the previous owner because the owner had a few mods but the car drove fine, passed california smog, and there was no oil/boost leak when i checked the car lol. Bought the car with 27k original miles back in 2013 and now it has 61k only so i don't drive this car a lot

As for the coils they are BRAND NEW. I bought them from EBay(which could be the problem...ebay product) so I wouldn't think they would be the problem but they are. Now with my OEM coils I am not having any misfire or sputtering issues.

[Jeff23spl]

Some oem parts seem to be better, the maf is one of them according to many user here....

Btw it is the same coils on the non turbo engine since 2006+ so finding any good used one is easy. And they don't fail that much...