Misfiring Clicking engine sound.

[JibboMe]

yesterday i was driving and when i parked i heard this odd sound. my ap wasnt throwing any codes. it at first sounded like the turbo was wearing on the housing. but this morning i woke up to go check on it. my ap was throwing a missfire on cyl 3 and i had this clicking sound coming from the front of my engine. i have a video clip that i will link to the sound. the sound seems to be coming from the right front corner of the car
https://youtu.be/J3jMRPVqBBg

so standing at the front driverside corner of the car looking at the ending at a 45 degree angle. this is where the sound is heard the most. Im going to try and limp it to work tomorrow to switch coil packs to see if the coil is bad. also i do not know if the intake has ever been cleaned on this car. also the PO had used 5w-40 instead of 5w-30 in the car which i have yet to do an oil change. for mods it has a cobb SRI Unknow HPCD fuel pump straight pipe exhaust. cobb AP. throwing Trouble code p0303 (cylinder 3 misfire) it sounds like a clicking/grinding sound. almost like the turbo is grinding on the housing. so for now ill be driving my underpowered honda civic with 202k miles my friends call it the "Petrol roller" lol

[cam1391]

The video quality is garbage so its hard to tell, could be anything from hpfp to blown turbo, to spun rpd bearing. Try to post a cleaner audio clip from different angles.
Also, what mods have you done, and what is the right front.. the passenger side? (Inside perspective) or driver (outside perspective)?

Originally Posted by cam1391 The video quality is garbage so its hard to tell, could be anything from hpfp to blown turbo, to spun rpd bearing. Try to post a cleaner audio clip from different angles. Also, what mods have you done, and what is the right front.. the passenger side? (Inside perspective) or driver (outside perspective)?

The more I listen the more it sounds like an exhaust leak.

[JibboMe]

Originally Posted by cam1391 The video quality is garbage so its hard to tell, could be anything from hpfp to blown turbo, to spun rpd bearing. Try to post a cleaner audio clip from different angles. Also, what mods have you done, and what is the right front.. the passenger side? (Inside perspective) or driver (outside perspective)? The more I listen the more it sounds like an exhaust leak.

okay i will be uploading a new video shortly. the best camera i have is an iphone 6

[JibboMe]

Originally Posted by cam1391 The video quality is garbage so its hard to tell, could be anything from hpfp to blown turbo, to spun rpd bearing. Try to post a cleaner audio clip from different angles. Also, what mods have you done, and what is the right front.. the passenger side? (Inside perspective) or driver (outside perspective)? The more I listen the more it sounds like an exhaust leak.

https://youtu.be/J3jMRPVqBBg
cpe downpipe cobb sri cobb ap straight pipe. sounds like valve train but im not that mechanicly inclinded

[cam1391]

Originally Posted by JibboMe https://youtu.be/J3jMRPVqBBg cpe downpipe cobb sri cobb ap straight pipe. sounds like valve train but im not that mechanicly inclinded

Good god, I see the problem.. you have street unit parts on the car!
I second the fuel notion, its either the hpfp or relief valve. I hope you have upgraded hpfp internals..

[Mizzle]

I'm calling a HPFP.

[Vansquish]

1. DO NOT SWITCH TO 5W-30. Leave it at 5W-40, these engines are happier on it, and the turbo will last longer. The previous owner appears to have known what he/she was doing.

2. I'm calling HPRV. What is your HPFP Actual Fuel Pressure at idle? What happens to that pressure if you turn the car engine off, but leave the key in the "on" position (KOEO)?

[JibboMe]

i ran my ap with the HPFP Acc Dec and Voltage. Im maxing out at 3500 rpm @ 1200 Psi. running on 3 cylinders. I was Maxing 1800.

[JibboMe]

another update. the HPFP ACC during wot untill 6000 rpm will only go up to 700psi During koeo im reading 64psi so yeah im guessing its the fuel pump

[cam1391]

Originally Posted by JibboMe another update. the HPFP ACC during wot untill 6000 rpm will only go up to 700psi During koeo im reading 64psi so yeah im guessing its the fuel pump

Ive seen internals snap before

[Vansquish]

Originally Posted by JibboMe another update. the HPFP ACC during wot untill 6000 rpm will only go up to 700psi During koeo im reading 64psi so yeah im guessing its the fuel pump

At KOEO, the HPFP Actual Pressure should RISE to the crack pressure of the HPRV (something like 1850psi). If it doesn't, your HPRV is toast. You may also be having issues with your HPFP, but it's hard to say this for sure without a working HPRV.

Next time, take a log of the process and post it.

[JibboMe]

Originally Posted by Vansquish At KOEO, the HPFP Actual Pressure should RISE to the crack pressure of the HPRV (something like 1850psi). If it doesn't, your HPRV is toast. You may also be having issues with your HPFP, but it's hard to say this for sure without a working HPRV. Next time, take a log of the process and post it.

Make a Data graph for ya'll.

[Mizzle]

What 5w40 do you run? If it's Rotella, drain it immediately and put a dexos-certified oil in.

The colors on my phone aren't great - is that log key on engine off?

[cam1391]

ive sent the t6 i run off multiple times. always outperforms anything else ive tried

[JibboMe]

[QUOTE=Mizzle;2913628]What 5w40 do you run? If it's Rotella, drain it immediately and put a dexos-certified oil in.

The colors on my phone aren't great - is that log key on engine off?[/QUOTEi]

its running castrol full synthetic. and no. those were from driving

[JibboMe]

So update. Installed corksport HPFP internals. During installation i noticed my internals were fine. still have the problem...

[JibboMe]

another update. I somehow managed to get it to run with the HPFP disconnected. and no more Clicking.

[JibboMe]

update again. the hpfp just isnt working correctly now

[JibboMe]

Okay I got the Hpfp working again i forgot to install the piece below the piston. ran okay. was getting 1400 psi on wot. the part infront of it is bad. started coughing and sputtering like its being fuel starved

[cam1391]

Originally Posted by JibboMe Okay I got the Hpfp working again i forgot to install the piece below the piston. ran okay. was getting 1400 psi on wot. the part infront of it is bad. started coughing and sputtering like its being fuel starved

Anything below 1700 @wot is dangerous.. below 1600 and you should start looking for a replacement block. Stay off boost till this is sorted. All signs still point to the hp relief valve

[JibboMe]

Alright so the coughing and sputtering was from the turbo inlet pipe blowing up. No more ungodly turbo sound. going to upload a datalog of my HPFP PSI and The rpms. Where is the HPRV? i tore the entire pump assembly off yesterday didn't see anything that resembled it.

[cam1391]

Originally Posted by JibboMe Alright so the coughing and sputtering was from the turbo inlet pipe blowing up. No more ungodly turbo sound. going to upload a datalog of my HPFP PSI and The rpms. Where is the HPRV? i tore the entire pump assembly off yesterday didn't see anything that resembled it.

I could be wrong but I believe its under the im on the fuel rail

[frothy]

Originally Posted by JibboMe Where is the HPRV? i tore the entire pump assembly off yesterday didn't see anything that resembled it.

HOW-TO: Replace Relief Valve (RV)

[Mizzle]

You need to slow down and stop touching things and take a step back.

We need more resolution in your log - specifically, you only need to log fuel pressure when you turn the key back to on.
Watch the very first part of this video, then post your log:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5asM2I-YTA

This will tell us if the relief valve is bad or not. It's not cheap, so it's better to test.




When you did your HPFP, how did you clean it?

[JibboMe]

Originally Posted by Mizzle You need to slow down and stop touching things and take a step back. We need more resolution in your log - specifically, you only need to log fuel pressure when you turn the key back to on. Watch the very first part of this video, then post your log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5asM2I-YTA This will tell us if the relief valve is bad or not. It's not cheap, so it's better to test. When you did your HPFP, how did you clean it?

I cleaned it using new fuel and oiled spring side and nipple on piston with clean 5w40 and alright i will go do that now

[JibboMe]

Originally Posted by Mizzle You need to slow down and stop touching things and take a step back. We need more resolution in your log - specifically, you only need to log fuel pressure when you turn the key back to on. Watch the very first part of this video, then post your log: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b5asM2I-YTA This will tell us if the relief valve is bad or not. It's not cheap, so it's better to test. When you did your HPFP, how did you clean it?

i dont think i need to point out to KOEO

[JibboMe]

Here ill upload the actual csv sheet incase my graphing skills suck.

[Mizzle]

Relief valve for sure.

I don't remember - is this a 6 or a 3?

Also, when cleaning the hpfp, use bbq starting fluid (aka naptha.)

[JibboMe]

Originally Posted by Mizzle Relief valve for sure. I don't remember - is this a 6 or a 3? Also, when cleaning the hpfp, use bbq starting fluid (aka naptha.)

its a 6. i ordered the part should get in in a week.

[Mizzle]

super easy to do if you follow the video posted here. Post results ok?

[JibboMe]

Originally Posted by Mizzle super easy to do if you follow the video posted here. Post results ok?

Okay i ordered the oem one from tasca. I will upgrade to one later on that can handle up to 2100 psi. right now the 6 is mapped for economy. in helps to have less damage. but tasca had to special order it. so now it'll be another week before i get it. good thing im working the next 48 hours at the Fire station

[Mizzle]

Don't bother upgrading - it's not needed.

[JibboMe]

Originally Posted by Mizzle Don't bother upgrading - it's not needed.

i installed the new RV here is the updated Datalog