No Spark 2008 MS3
 

So here’s the scoop:
New built block from SP63
-Mahle 4032 Pistons
-Manley H-Tuff Rods
-SP63 Main/Head Studs
-Clevite Main/Rod Bearings
-Keyed Crank
-BSD Kit

Mods:
-Autotech HPFP internals
-JBR Tru 3.5” Intake
-JMF V2 Intake Manifold (Dummy injectors as place holders until I go 8th port)
-CS Injector Seals
-New washers and grommets on injectors
-Injectors cleaned and flow tested by Kozmic Motorsports
-Treadstone TR8 FMIC
-JBR Under-route Piping Kit
-COBB XLE BPV
-COBB Accessport V3
-DM EGR Delete Kit
-DM Trilogy Motor Mounts
-DM PCV Plate
-DM VTA OCC
-Bosch 3 Bar Map Sensor / Bitwise Connector
-ACT 6 Puck Clutch w/ Prolite Flywheel
-Wireharness Tuck from Eric with VTCS and EGR Delete.
-New Camshaft Position Sensor
-New Crankshaft Position Sensor
-Base Map tune from Justin @ Freektune

Here’s the issue:
Car will try and start but I’m not getting any spark on cylinders 1-3. Cylinder 4 will spark. Tested this by grounding plug to battery and holding plug inside coil pack and cranking engine. Took the same plug and pack and plugged it into each connector for cylinders 1-3, no spark. Pulled wire harness and checked continuity; wire harness is good. Checked all grounds, especially the one on the side of the HPFP, they’re all good. Even checked the ground that was originally connected to the PMM and it’s good. (Now connected to frame and Timing Chain Cover.) Car is getting fuel because I had a small leak coming from the fuel pressure sensor but fixed that. Just had to tighten the adapter that came with the JMF IM.

-Side note:
All mods listed above have never been installed, only thing I had installed was the HPFP internals. Everything else is brand new and installed during the engine swap.

Any advice is greatly appreciated! Thanks in advance! Hoping it’s something stupid that I have connected wrong or not connected at all. :|

Just to make sure you got all bases covered, what are your sparkplugs gapped to?

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

They are gapped to .027" Sorry, should have noted that above.

And are the "dummy injectors" real injectors without the complete setup?

Sent from my ONE A2005 using Tapatalk

No, they are just CNC machined solid pieces in the shape of bosch injectors with o-rings. These just sit in the fuel rail on top of the jmf.

stupid question, your crank sensor was installed with the plug facing inside the engine bay?

Yessir and double checked that it lined up with the crank tooth at TDC.

Any codes?
Do you see RPM's registering when cranking?
Whats your FP when cranking?

No codes. HPFP PSI is at 65 while cranking and RPMs bounce between 192 and 238 while cranking.

Im thinking its electrical issue.
do you have nay spare harness? i know you said you did continuity but its easier to swap in another working harness than doing test not saying erics harness is faulty just something to try.

also did you opt for the wot box harness from eric?
the wot box wire cuts into the ignition coil power wires so if you opt for the wot box harness with wire tuck/Pi, car wont start without wot box

hows the CAM shaft sensor?
or the coil pack ground?

mostly those are the common cause of no spark
or the ecu plug isnt fully seated.

I don’t have a spare harness. Also didn’t choose the wot box option from Eric. I did get the PI pigtail adapter but not using it until I go PI. The plug for it is just tied off under the fuel pump for now. Cam shaft sensor is brand new, installed it the same time I did the crank position sensor. I agree with you tho, definitely an electrical issue, just have no clue what it could be.

the ground for the harness is good right?
weird.
hows the fuse? especially the ENG fuses

Yessir, harness ground is good. Tested it with a meter. It’s grounded to the HPFP housing.
All the fuses are good also.

Sucks because I had to leave for Louisiana today for work so project is getting put on hold until I get back. Such a bummer, was really wanting to drive me car again! :/

Were the fuses checked visually or with a meter? I had a burnt fuse that I would've missed had I not checked it with a volt meter because the hairline crack was not visible.

They were just checked visually. I’ll have to check them with a meter to make sure they are indeed all good.

So I put a scan tool on the car and it’s reading a P2009 and P2006 which are both referring to the VTCS, which no longer exists due to the JMF and had the connector removed
from the harness by Eric. This wouldn’t prevent the car from sparking by any chance would it?

VTCS codes wont affect anything at all,
is the new crank sensor OEM?
also the camshaft sensor is new oem brand too?

the crank shaft sensor is aligned at the 20th teeth on the pulley when installed?

sorry for the questions but those are the only thing that I know that will affect spark. specially when youre having a spark on one cylinder

got the exact same problem on my 6 after engine install....did a lot of tests and not sure which one was the exact problem but i ended up replacing the coil harness. It helped for few miles before it started again and then after replacing many things including coils and plugs, i got a cam sensor code, replaced it and car ran fine since then.....

I didn't try the old harness neither the old coils but i do expect it was just the cam sensor from the beginning without throwing a cel at first.....It could have been part time working when i messed with the wire harness and after too much misfires, i burned the plugs and coils....

Ok, so just realized the cam follower for the hpfp never got installed in the new motor. (Sigh) Got a new one in today so going to install that.

My question now is: if the injectors are not getting enough psi from the hpfp, will that cause the ECU to prevent the plugs from creating spark? If so, this should fix all my issues.

I don't think that low FP will cut spark. Being more than 6 degrees out of time will however. That happened to me as I was sold my Speed3 sans HPFP cam follower as well! They left it out when doing the timing job.

Yeah, that didn't fix my issue. Still not getting any fuel PSI above 65 while cranking and only getting spark on cylinder 4. At a loss at this point. :/

I'm a little new to these cars, but that being said those really sound like different compounding issues to me. Maybe a bad wire harness is contributing to the spark condition? Would a faulty FP relief valve keep you at 65 PSI? I know there is a pseudo test that can be done with a warm engine shut off- but ofc that doesn't help you. I think it's supposed to crack around 1800~psi, so if you can blow through it it's probably junk.