THE OFFICIAL HPFP CDFP FUEL PUMP THREAD

[Menace1]

Originally Posted by Dizzy Turbo Doesn't the stock spring work fine? Not bashing, but why upgrade a working part, maybe I'm missing something.

That's what im trying to figure out. is this part okay for everyone including high hp cars or is it a fail waiting to happen. Or does the cpe spring provide an extra benefit through longevity or plunger rpm or w-e you wanna call it? it almost seems that one of these springs may result in better response or allowable plunger rate of speed. don't quote me. just lookin for gear head response you know.

[MS3LUKE]

so today i decided to datalog since ill be installing my fmic on friday. i dont have AP. but i do ave a snap-on solus ultra. It showed to be at 1725psi wot and dropped to 1580-1600 while shifting. wondering if these internals need to be replaced before actually installing the ic.
thANKS GUYS

[mrdale90]

Ms3Luke, you should definitely consider replacing your internals before any further upgrades just from all the reading I've done you don't want the "zoom zoom boom effect".

My question is about boost. I replaced my internals yesterday, and I'm running a AP and Injen CAI but that's all and my fuel pressure is maxing out at 2100psi but my boost is only 14.7psi and the Max pressure for the map I'm running is supposed to be 16.5. I know its +/- 1.5psi, but should I be concerned about my internals if I'm not getting Max boost? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[treavis]

Anyone had any experience with edgeautosport.com was thinjing about purchasing from the. Price Autotech internals are 350 shipped

[Raider]

Originally Posted by treavis Anyone had any experience with edgeautosport.com was thinjing about purchasing from the. Price Autotech internals are 350 shipped

Never heard of them.

Seriously, new guy. I know It's tough, but you need to spend time reading. Shit man, check out their section up top. Yes, they are awesome. Just read more.

[sidekick]

Has anyone here had problems installing AutoTechs? I have them in the pump already, but when I try to put the pump back in, It's extremely hard to get the pump close enough for the threads on the bolts to engage. Eventually I get 2 in and then the pump is so mis-aligned, I can't even get the 3rd to start threading. The stock pump seems like it would go back on no problem, and I'm not fighting nearly as much pressure trying to push the pump in. I'd really like to have a running car, so maybe someone can shed some light on what might be going on here.

[smoogs12]

@sidekick; Pics?

[sidekick]

Originally Posted by smoogs12 @sidekick; Pics?

Of what exactly? I've given up for now, I've been at this shit for way too long. Next time I give it a shot, I'll try to get whatever pictures.

[GODspeed7]

Sounds like the cam shaft is in the way. You could try GENTLY bumping the starter to move it.

[sidekick]

Originally Posted by GODspeed7 Sounds like the cam shaft is in the way. You could try GENTLY bumping the starter to move it.

My cam follower is stuck actually. Based on this thread:fuel pump install difficulty

I was having the exact same problem and my cam follower is in the exact same position as his, so I'm pretty sure that is the problem. Thanks for your help though

[themytb]

Originally Posted by sidekick My cam follower is stuck actually. Based on this thread:fuel pump install difficulty I was having the exact same problem and my cam follower is in the exact same position as his, so I'm pretty sure that is the problem. Thanks for your help though

You did try rotating the crank (by hand) right? If the lobe its in the up position it will not let the follower drop down.

[sidekick]

Originally Posted by themytb You did try rotating the crank (by hand) right? If the lobe its in the up position it will not let the follower drop down.

It was definitely stuck. I tried cranking the engine a few times, with no change. I used a rubber covered socket and a rubber mallet to knock it free. Everything went smooth as butter after that.

[s_x_two]

quick random question. i broke my in-tank fuel pump. should i go for an upgrade right away without the internals. and wich one would be better to get. walbro or deatsch wrecks

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by s_x_two quick random question. i broke my in-tank fuel pump. should i go for an upgrade right away without the internals. and wich one would be better to get. walbro or deatsch wrecks

How did you/do you know you broke the in tank pump?


Sent from my iBro 5 using tapatalk, Bro!

[s_x_two]

well first i ran out of gas.. twice. the secound time my check engine light turned on. checked it out. computer showed that i had to lean fuel on idle and to rich when i flore it. thats how it was. my daily mpg droped by like 2 and at idle i would stal sometimes. this car was passed down to my by my older bro. he had internals installed. yesterday he took them out. put in the stalk one back in. no fuel going into the engine at all/ so engin just stal at start. what you think?

[GODspeed7]

Originally Posted by s_x_two well first i ran out of gas.. twice. the secound time my check engine light turned on. checked it out. computer showed that i had to lean fuel on idle and to rich when i flore it. thats how it was. my daily mpg droped by like 2 and at idle i would stal sometimes. this car was passed down to my by my older bro. he had internals installed. yesterday he took them out. put in the stalk one back in. no fuel going into the engine at all/ so engin just stal at start. what you think?

Dude your posts are REALLY hard to read. What kind of internals did your brother have in there? Are you sure you installed the stock ones correctly?


Sent from my iBro 5 using tapatalk, Bro!

[s_x_two]

Originally Posted by GODspeed7 Dude your posts are REALLY hard to read. What kind of internals did your brother have in there? Are you sure you installed the stock ones correctly? Sent from my iBro 5 using tapatalk, Bro!

sorry and yes. it aint hard to change it and the autoteck rod.

[s_x_two]

my car was driving ok with the auto tech internal in the hpfp, bc it sends 50% more gas to the engine. but now with the stock internal in the hpfp, its not even going. not enough gas going into the engine. idk what it could be, my guess is the in-tank fuel pump broke. happened to a friend, on his civic though

[Mizzle]

FYI:

Their prices are retarded, but APR is selling their 'ish direct now:

APR 2.0T FSI High Pressure Fuel Pump

Pump: 1,099.99 -> SALE! $934.99
Kit: $649.99 -> SALE! $552.49

I'm too lazy to look - anyone using KMDv3 internals?

[Madcaddies]

Sorry guys I am a complete noob and probably spamming the forum with this question but I really need a peace of mind on this one The current owner of the Mazdaspeed 3 I am looking to buy is planning on fitting a intake SRI and a FMIC kit without any software upgrade. I have read on the forum that this is not a good idea to fit a FMIC kit without upgrading the internals of the HPFP and told the owner this but he says it is no problem? Is it me who is wrong on this one?

Thanks in advance guys

[Raider]

You need them if a 2010+.

[Madcaddies]

It is a 2007 first gen:-)

[ANITIX87]

Hi, guys. I have the opportunity to buy someone's upgrade fuel pump (installed AT internals and is now stocking out) for $250 in exchange for my OEM one. I'm one of the most paranoid people when it comes to my warranty, but I presume this is a safe bet as long as he's been maintaining pressure?

I've done some searching but can't find any consolidated threads on upgrade HPFP failures (which, I guess, is a good thing).

Have there been many failures of upgraded pumps or are they crazy reliable???

TIS

[jack_hammer]

Originally Posted by ANITIX87 Hi, guys. I have the opportunity to buy someone's upgrade fuel pump (installed AT internals and is now stocking out) for $250 in exchange for my OEM one. I'm one of the most paranoid people when it comes to my warranty, but I presume this is a safe bet as long as he's been maintaining pressure? I've done some searching but can't find any consolidated threads on upgrade HPFP failures (which, I guess, is a good thing). Have there been many failures of upgraded pumps or are they crazy reliable??? TIS

If he is maintaining pressure then you're good. Maybe ask for some recent data logs? Of course, he could fake those. But, i would probably prefer the swap of complete pumps over buying used internals and swapping them myself.

[ANITIX87]

Originally Posted by jack_hammer But, i would probably prefer the swap of complete pumps

I trust him completely (know him personally) and he says (and has provided logs) that he maintains commanded pressure just fine. However, the pump (with warranty) that CP-E offers is so tempting, if only for peace of mind.

TIS

[jack_hammer]

then if yo uguys are buddies, if you have a warranty problem you could ask him to submit it to AT for you. but honestly, the risk comes at installation. once you're installed, up, and running, you're past the vast majority of potential pitfalls.

[hyedracyl]

Though a reference to APR exists in post #99 above, a search says there are no matches when searching for APR. Go figure...

I sold some Autotech internals for my GTI HPFP to a guy with an MS3 a while back. I later elected to purchase an APR pump for that car instead. I've sold the GTI and bought another MS3, and I'm wondering if there are any differences in the Hitachi pump (other than the fittings that is) for the VW application versus that for an MS3. If not, I don't see why the APR pump wouldn't be able to be installed onto the Mazda motor. Has anyone ever tried this?

[boatis]

just making sure but I don't need internals if all I have is a CBE right ... ?

[Raider]

No. Just need to read more.

[Menace1]

Originally Posted by hyedracyl Though a reference to APR exists in post #99 above, a search says there are no matches when searching for APR. Go figure... I sold some Autotech internals for my GTI HPFP to a guy with an MS3 a while back. I later elected to purchase an APR pump for that car instead. I've sold the GTI and bought another MS3, and I'm wondering if there are any differences in the Hitachi pump (other than the fittings that is) for the VW application versus that for an MS3. If not, I don't see why the APR pump wouldn't be able to be installed onto the Mazda motor. Has anyone ever tried this?

CPE Pumps are APR pumps. Not sure on the vw design but internals should be the same.

And to add to my previous post. The CPE HPFP spring does make a difference and is different from stock. It allows the pump to out rev 1.5 times that of the stock spring on stock pump, as well as a stock pump with aftermarket internals. Now the upgraded internals design is what gives the pump higher pressures, resulting in some HPFP upgrades offering higher peak available pressure.

@themytb; I think we should add these specs to the OP for everyone. The proper peak pressure for each individual HPFP Internal and the difference in the CPE HPFP spring compared to stock.
I'm just going to leave these here as well.
http://www.corksport.com/blog/fuel-p...arison-part-1/
http://www.corksport.com/blog/fuel-p...arison-part-2/

[Reyes_sdr]

Does anyone know where I can buy parts for my fuel pump? I droped mine and bent the two aluminum lines, and I tried to straighten them to the best of my ability and put everything back on and it spits fuel out!!! I just need the aluminum lines.

[Raider]

Post a wtb thread once you add city and state to your profile.

[ilias]

I'm going to install a CS SRI + TIP and flash Cobb AP stag 1 . Do you think that i will need a fuel pump upgrade ?

[Raider]

Yes.

Start reading.

[Reyes_sdr]

I didnt have any troubles with the fuel pump until I put a FMIC on... everything before that was CAI, TIH, TBE, iridium plugs, and access port. I put the fmic on and I got a fuel cut around 5500 rpms. Put the AT internals in and was fine... however it wouldnt pass smog so I put the stock internals back in and dropped the pump and bent the shit out of the aluminum lines and now im fucked untill I can find out where to buy external fuel pump parts

[Menace1]

Dude! Please! No stories of how you did what you did. The progress of modding these cars are and have been posted for a reason. It only confuses people about what they can do to there cars before problems. Some speeds are different, but the mod path is direct and should be taken no matter what BS you did and didn't blow up.

[hyedracyl]

Great info Menace1, I appreciate the tip. Now I'm wondering if it would be better to swap over the various external fittings to my APR pump, or to disassemble both pumps and move the APR internals over to the Mazda's housing. I thought that APR was machining the housings to match their improved internals, but the threads that you referenced didn't seem to indicate that the internals had been matched to the housing. Any other words of wisdom for me? Thanks in advance!

[shadow6]

i have a quick question. is there a way to tell if you have upgraded fuel pump internals with out taking off the fuel pump by the pressure? or do I have to take it apart?

[Etipp98]

Check for zip tie on hard line if not then I doubt it.

[ilias]

well i'm going to try CS SRI + TIP and run AP Stage1+CS+TIH 93 (the map is for stock fuel pump)COBB Tuning - MAZDASPEED Accessport
,if i got any fuel pressure problems i will change it to CPE hpfp.