CDFP internals upgrade

[Lymerock]

Originally Posted by CraigHJr Anything is possible. It is a simple swap once you break that nut loose.

no doubt, my will is strong when the hangover headache is gone. as long as its not something stupid like 100ftlbs I shouldnt have much issue (once I get off the couch)

Originally Posted by Jarods7920 here ya go man...i picked this little gem up a few weeks ago Harbor Freight Tools - Quality Tools at the Lowest Prices

Im looking for something with more depth in between the jaws. seems all the ones at HF were low profile style.
I apreciate the link however.

[Jarods7920]

Originally Posted by Lymerock no doubt, my will is strong when the hangover headache is gone. as long as its not something stupid like 100ftlbs I shouldnt have much issue (once I get off the couch) Im looking for something with more depth in between the jaws. seems all the ones at HF were low profile style. I apreciate the link however.

that would explain the higher price then lol....If you are good at bulding those jaws are removabla and you coudl build your own clamp that could extend them higher.

[Lymerock]

Just got done installing the internals, fuel pressure at idle is 100psi higher
the pump does make more noise than the stock internals, no doubt there, but i only noticed when i started the car and had the hood up, inside the cabin I couldnt tell a difference.

as far as using a vice and all that, I whipped out my cordless impact and had it apart in about 2 seconds and used it oh so gently to put the pump back together as well.
hardest part of the install was getting the bottom hard line connected again, not difficult, but i did swear a few times when the nut fell down the pipe, screw dem zipties!

[Deadman]

what did you hold it with when using the impact?? I have a vice at work so i will prolly do it that way unless you have an easier way lol

[Lymerock]

I held it with my hand, didnt even hold it tight, it was off within the first 2-3 beats
the nut probably has less than 75lbs of torque on it because it was easier than using my impact to remove my tire lugs and those are on at 86ftlbs

at first I tried to use a clamp against a work bench while using a big breaker bar and that didnt seem too safe for the pump as it was really wanting to twist its way out of the clamp

[CraigHJr]

The cheap ass in me LOVES Harbor Freight, but the mechanic in me says no no no its not Snap-on.

[Jarods7920]

Ya i love snap on too....but i am not going to pay triple for a vice i just wont. Now ratchets and things...my matco and snap on ones are fucking amazing.

[Stan-O]

Can someone explain in better detail how to let the car build up pressure by disabling the coil packs?? Do you turn the car over a few times??

Just need some clarification

Thanks
Stan-O

[CraigHJr]

Originally Posted by Stan-O Can someone explain in better detail how to let the car build up pressure by disabling the coil packs?? Do you turn the car over a few times?? Just need some clarification Thanks Stan-O

Yes thats is just to prime the low pressure fuel side. I honestly didn't do it on mine. Just turn the key on and off 3 times and fire away. Whats the worst that could happen the parts are doomed to make noise anyway.

[watdog]

So what is the torque spec when re-installing that 18mm nut?

[CraigHJr]

Originally Posted by watdog So what is the torque spec when re-installing that 18mm nut?

Tight...Sorry thats the best I can come up with.

[watdog]

Looks like there is an o-ring that needs to seal with that nut. If you over tighten it then it smashes that o-ring and will leak. To little and it doesn't seal also. Hmm... Someone should know.

[vbt101]

Yep, sweet write-up. This is gonna be useful when the upgraded internals come out!

[tagkat]

Another good write up however watermarks are obnoxious!
Krystm’s Garage - Mazda 3 Mods and More! Cam Driven Fuel Pump (CDFP) Internals Install

[Krystm]

Lowered the visibility of the watermarks should be good to go now.

[AFcadet]

Is there a thread where I can order these internals?

[CraigHJr]

Protege Garage is a big sponcer of all of the forums. I couldn't imagine why you would need a thread to buy the parts when they are readily avalible from a website?

[evidence]

Threw my pg 'v2' internals in today, needing the vice and breaker bar is no joke.. that shit was on there. I did get P0091 (fuel pressure regulator control circuit low) when i started it back up, but thats prob from runnin it dry with the relay out.

Just a note if you dont have a deep 18mm handy you can pull the spring and retainer off and use a standard one to tighten it back on. In my case i was only able to put the wratchet 1/2 way in but I was able to torque it plenty tight. Popped the spring and retainer on without much issue after that.

[Strizzo]

just an FYI, you don't need to disable the coils to prime the pump after you finish. if you hold the gas pedal to the floor while pushing in the clutch and turning the key, it won't fire the injectors so that you don't blow something up. pump primed and ready.

also, if your open end wrench set is like mine and stops at 17mm, check and see if you have a 3/4 inch open end, its almost the same size and will work just fine.

[EvilSpeed3]

Thanks for the great info, write up, and pics.

[Oakes Salancy]

Great write up. Itll save me money for sure.

[flyrevs2]

good one, except you need to finish up with lubeing it all up in fresh clean OIL, the gasoline is not a lubricant and is suspect in causing the unit to fail !

[phillyb]

clean with brake cleaner

[CraigHJr]

Are you saying that the gas that is pressurized in the pump never touches the piston that you change from the kit?

[shpankey]

did mine the other night. I used brake cleaner, not gas, to soak and clean it with, then dabbed some oil on the spring side.

just turn the key on and off about 6 times without starting to prime the pump. then hold the pedal to the floor and try to start (it won't) for a couple rotations. THEN start it normal. this avoids having to pull any fuses or whatever.

also, some people say to break the pump in right, you should let it idle for 20 minutes (seems excessive to me) and then drive carefully for 100 miles, never going over 4k rpm's in any gear. this supposedly breaks the pump in right.

p.s. I had a problem with my 18mm deep well socket. mine wasn't thin walled all the way back, instead only the part with at the end was. this won't let the socket go over the spring and back on to the nut. i bought another, and it was only thin walled half way back... i had to push the socket in HARD (thereby depressing the spring) and this allowed it back to the nut. a major PITA!

[Spoolme]

Nice write up. Isn't there a video of this somewhere???

[bf360]

DO NOT USE GAS PEOPLE USE OIL FOR LUBRICATION

[evidence]

Originally Posted by bf360 DO NOT USE GAS PEOPLE USE OIL FOR LUBRICATION

Actually I thought you put it in gas in the early instructions to clean any contaminants, I don't think lubrication is needed. The lube is in the coating. That's why some people are using brake cleaner now, no residue left over and ensures the parts are clean. I do put a drop of oil on the o-rings though to make sure everything slides in nice and tight.

[boyer]

Help!!!! -- with the PTP internals, how do you get the spring retainer off the shaft to reuse it?????
I didn't want to risk forcing it and fuggin everything up...

duh, just slid off with a little angled force... what an idiot....

[DaleNixon]

Can someone link me to the exact torx bit I need? I bought some reverse torx bits but they go up to T40 not E8. The guy at Autozone looked at me like I was speaking a foreign language when I said I needed an E8 inverted torx bit.

[CraigHJr]

whats your email i will send you a picture of one i have in my hand right now.

[karl-hungus]

Originally Posted by DaleNixon Can someone link me to the exact torx bit I need? I bought some reverse torx bits but they go up to T40 not E8. The guy at Autozone looked at me like I was speaking a foreign language when I said I needed an E8 inverted torx bit.

dale, advance had them behind the counter w/ the other sockets. i first tried sears but they didn't have any. go to the craftsman website and search 'torx'. you'll see an e8 inverted torx 1/4" socket.

imagine a socket that goes over a regular torx bit and that's what it looks like. also, the cdfp bolts are visible between your ecu and engine.

[DaleNixon]

This guy:

http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...+torx&sLevel=0

?

[evidence]

Originally Posted by DaleNixon Can someone link me to the exact torx bit I need? I bought some reverse torx bits but they go up to T40 not E8. The guy at Autozone looked at me like I was speaking a foreign language when I said I needed an E8 inverted torx bit.

Originally Posted by DaleNixon This guy: http://www.craftsman.com/shc/s/p_101...+torx&sLevel=0 ?

That's it. The Autozone and Checkers by me both carried em. Sounds like the tool was the one standing behind the counter that time

[Sniper2606]

this might sounds stupid lol but is there a thread that tell you how to remove the pump from the car :p

[evidence]

Originally Posted by Sniper2606 this might sounds stupid lol but is there a thread that tell you how to remove the pump from the car :p

The OP of this thread?

[AFcadet]

This thread needs to be deleted or heavily modified.

The steps where you dip the parts in gasoline is wrong...and caused many failures last spring/summer when protege garage and pale rider were selling the new internals.

Myself and other testers found the key to the install is NOT dipping the parts in gasoline, and instead coating the piston and sleeve in clean motor oil to LUBRICATE the part like it is supposed to be.

Gasoline is not a lubricant. It will dry the part out...and cause more friction. Which is exactly what you dont want when you have brand new fuel pump internals pumping at thousands pumps per minute. The gasoline step caused many pump internals to seize and or create gashes and making it fail.

[evidence]

Originally Posted by AFcadet This thread needs to be deleted or heavily modified. The steps where you dip the parts in gasoline is wrong...and caused many failures last spring/summer when protege garage and pale rider were selling the new internals. Myself and other testers found the key to the install is NOT dipping the parts in gasoline, and instead coating the piston and sleeve in clean motor oil to LUBRICATE the part like it is supposed to be. Gasoline is not a lubricant. It will dry the part out...and cause more friction. Which is exactly what you dont want when you have brand new fuel pump internals pumping at thousands pumps per minute. The gasoline step caused many pump internals to seize and or create gashes and making it fail.

Yea.. you can use brake cleaner to clean the part off if you need before giving it a very light coating of oil.

[CraigHJr]

I will mod the original write up from my cell internet. I only followed the crap write up that came with the internals which were not ment for consumers. Back in the day the manufactors tried to fuck us and charge us 5to700 bucks for a pump upgrade that was a 1hr diy swap. I fully agree that oil is needed to lube the internals but my car has been gone long over a year now so I don't follow the forums for updates.

[AFcadet]

Thats fine bro...just if you could update it by taking out the dunk in gasoline, and lubricate with oil, that would be perfect.

A lot of people use this as a how-to, so obviously it should be the correct way.

Not trying to bash you or anything...you were a pioneer in a way since you were one of the first to have a how to. But a few people did get lucky and have the piston and sleeve "set" correctly instead of tearing itself apart with now lubrication lol