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 Old 01-20-2010, 03:37 PM   #81
 
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Check the first post I think you will see it was updated before you even posted this...I am about to go read the other CDFP info in the fuel deliv sub forum, if they are way better I don't see why people are still comming to this thread asking questions.
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 Old 01-20-2010, 04:05 PM   #82
 
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I see that you did now. Thanks.

The threads about this problem was pages and pages of discussion, problems, tests, and finally a solution. The people that were all having failures watched that thread closely. But now the CDFP hubub has settled...people will find this thread A LOT easier considering the name when they search.
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 Old 01-20-2010, 04:40 PM   #83
 
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Originally Posted by CraigHJr View Post
Check the first post I think you will see it was updated before you even posted this...I am about to go read the other CDFP info in the fuel deliv sub forum, if they are way better I don't see why people are still comming to this thread asking questions.
I checked out this thread because it's the first sticky in the Mazdaspeed3 How-To section.
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 Old 01-22-2010, 09:01 AM   #84
 
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How 'bout we just add to use motor oil as assembly lube instead of gasoline and, confirm torque values for the cap at 50 pounds/ft max?
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 Old 02-06-2010, 12:53 AM   #85
 
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Default help with a cel p0091 after install a sb and pnp arnees

hi guys , i need your help , i tried to install a sb and a pnp arness yesterday , when i finished i start the car , and i have a cel p0091 , i put my ecu without sb and pnp , and this code disappear...my mods are wot bx n2mb , turboback 3" , boost tubes , one step colder ngk, cai injen , i have installed a atp fcd ,in this moment.
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 Old 02-06-2010, 01:19 AM   #86
 
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Originally Posted by nesiospeed View Post
hi guys , i need your help , i tried to install a sb and a pnp arness yesterday , when i finished i start the car , and i have a cel p0091 , i put my ecu without sb and pnp , and this code disappear...my mods are wot bx n2mb , turboback 3" , boost tubes , one step colder ngk, cai injen , i have installed a atp fcd ,in this moment.
failing to connect how this is related to a cdfp when you dont even have one.
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 Old 02-10-2010, 01:14 PM   #87
 
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Hey, I need some help with how to get stains out of jeans....oh wait....this isn't that thread? Crap....Well nice write up anyway!
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 Old 12-20-2010, 02:28 PM   #88
 
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Nice, lots of pics
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 Old 12-22-2010, 09:21 AM   #89
 
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So I'm just about to do the instal of the CPe pump, which blue relay do I need to pull? I don't see any that says "circuit".


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 Old 12-22-2010, 05:14 PM   #90
 
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a ton of people seem to think this should be one of your first mods, even before SRI/DP/RP etc... anyone want to give their two cents? Thinking about doing this...
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 Old 12-22-2010, 05:43 PM   #91
 
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Originally Posted by bait View Post
a ton of people seem to think this should be one of your first mods, even before SRI/DP/RP etc... anyone want to give their two cents? Thinking about doing this...
There is a good reason why so many people think this should be one of your first mods. I ran into fuel cut with just a cai. The stock one is a pos and fails often but you might not know its failing and could cause problems. Also i dont know what it is with people and not getting a monitoring device before they start doing all these upgrades. Before you do ANY MOD (including this) you need that first. Ex what happens if you do this and you fuck up the install (or the part is defective) and you cant monitor your DI pressure to notice you fucked up then you find out the hard way when you throw a rod or something. MONITORING DEVICE FIRST NOOB LESSON 101.

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 Old 01-10-2011, 07:14 PM   #92
 
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*** you should be able to pressurize the fuel system by holding your gas petal to the floor, this will turn over engine but you wont get any spark, this usually works on newer cars. idk
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 Old 02-02-2011, 11:33 AM   #93
 
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Any idea why the factory manual states you should drain the coolant from the engine before removing the CDFP on the Gen2 Speed3? I have not seen that step outlined in any of the writeups on CDFP upgrades.
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 Old 02-02-2011, 12:55 PM   #94
 
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Originally Posted by dachtler View Post
Any idea why the factory manual states you should drain the coolant from the engine before removing the CDFP on the Gen2 Speed3? I have not seen that step outlined in any of the writeups on CDFP upgrades.
No idea why they have that step. I didn't drain my coolant when I did mine.
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 Old 02-02-2011, 02:08 PM   #95
 
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people still getting their internals from ptg?
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 Old 02-04-2011, 09:39 AM   #96
 
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Don't worry about pulling the relay...like someone else said...just hold down the gas pedal all the way to the floor and crank the motor.

Watch your DI fuel pressure and after 5-10 seconds of cranking you will see the fuel preassure quickly rise above 500. once its primed let off the gas and start it normally.

I've personally done this about a dozen times on my car...and multiple times on my buddies cars when I was changing out fuel pumps.
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 Old 02-07-2011, 10:16 AM   #97
 
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excited to do this this weekend!
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 Old 03-05-2011, 03:20 PM   #98
 
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reading some of the threads regarding the hpfp installs, I have not come across anyone mentioning how to re-install the pump and some of the difficulties. I am starting to think that it may just be me but I can not get the pump back in.

I am trying really hard to align the 3 etorx bolts but I can not press onto the fp hard enough.. Any suggestions?
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 Old 03-05-2011, 03:35 PM   #99
 
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it happened to bmorrisj hit him up.
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 Old 03-05-2011, 05:41 PM   #100
 
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Wow, I still can't believe how tough this install has been. I have the cp-e fuel pump and have followed this install guide--until I was ready to install the pump back in, everything went smoothly.

So the advice so far that I have received is to just torque the etorx bolts back in slowly one by one--this is a lot easier said than done. There is so much resistance getting the pump back into place that myself and my buddy could not even get close. At one point we got one of the bolts back in partially but that was about as close as we got to it.

I even tried to screw the 19mm nut back in first in hopes of aligning in correctly and then getting the etorx botls lined up--this even failed.

I don't want to keep forcing the fp back into place with this much resistance. Had to leave my car at my friends house for the night and will try again tomorrow. Any input would be appreciated.

The pic below is where I am at right now.

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 Old 03-05-2011, 06:08 PM   #101
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Originally Posted by dizzydtrain View Post
I don't want to keep forcing the fp back into place with this much resistance.
buy it some drinks.
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 Old 03-05-2011, 06:18 PM   #102
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does the stock pump go on okay? maybe it's the cp-e pump?
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 Old 03-05-2011, 07:21 PM   #103
 
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it does not. I got a pm from bmorrisj and it looks like the cam follower needs to be depressed in again in order to fit the fuel pump back to where it belongs. Fucking noob fail by me but I am learning, which is great.
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 Old 03-06-2011, 07:37 AM   #104
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 Old 03-06-2011, 08:14 AM   #105
 
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Make sure the cam follower slides in and out easily. What i think is happening is that the cam stopped in the pumps fully compressed position. Therefor making you compress the pump while its going in. Try to turn the engine over by hand by putting a ratchet on the crank pully, and have a friend watch the cam follower until it's at the furthest in position. I think that will help you out.
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 Old 03-06-2011, 10:03 AM   #106
 
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still having some issues. The cam lobe is that bronze looking pin where the hpfp spring would be insterted in, correct?

I am bump starting the car but it's still in the same position.
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 Old 03-07-2011, 06:43 PM   #107
 
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Yea the Cam follower is just pushed up by the cam.

I've put on the fuel pump almost a dozen times now lol...and this happens every now and then. Just fully remove the fuel pump, hop in the car, depress the clutch and the gas pedal all the way (so the injectors won't fire) and just flip the key on and off real quick to turn the engine over for a breif second.

This will turn over the motor...turning the cam as well. Its nothing cosmic...just turn over the engine and try inserting the fuel pump. It should go in easier (so to speak). If not...try it again.

I bet your cam follower is extended all the way...thats why you can even get it close. Any other position and you should be able to depress it enough to at least get one bolt in...then you can get the others on and slowly screw it down onto the engine.
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 Old 03-07-2011, 07:38 PM   #108
 
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I was posting in the other thread. I was able to get it done today, it was a pain in the ass to get the follower (cup) back in due to the cold weather we had here but I got in after a while.

You are right tho, the cam follower was extended all the way.
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 Old 07-27-2011, 02:56 PM   #109
 
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Originally Posted by AFcadet View Post
Yea the Cam follower is just pushed up by the cam.

I've put on the fuel pump almost a dozen times now lol...and this happens every now and then. Just fully remove the fuel pump, hop in the car, depress the clutch and the gas pedal all the way (so the injectors won't fire) and just flip the key on and off real quick to turn the engine over for a breif second.


Do we flip the key to the "ON' position or the "START" position? The car battery has to be connected to do so right?

Sorry about the dump questions...
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 Old 08-08-2011, 12:22 PM   #110
 
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You actually need get the engine moving to move the follower, so push down the gas and clutch so the injectors aren't active and just give it a quick tap to START to roll it over.
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 Old 08-16-2011, 01:14 PM   #111
 
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no battery needed
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 Old 08-16-2011, 08:16 PM   #112
 
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 Old 08-25-2011, 01:43 PM   #113
 
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great write up i gotta do this next im getting fuel cut after i put that Catless Dp on
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 Old 08-30-2011, 07:14 PM   #114
 
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Originally Posted by karl hungus View Post
Originally Posted by dizzydtrain
I don't want to keep forcing the fp back into place with this much resistance.

buy it some drinks.
Classic! LMFAO!

Anyway, much better after the AutoTech internals install. Pretty easy install (once you have all the tools, DOH!)
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 Old 10-14-2011, 09:21 AM   #115
 
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i need to order and install one really bad.

i blew a plug and pulled a p0301 and pretty much that plug from the first cylinder was toasted and had nomore gap. finally replaced my plugs to step colders but since then i've been scared to boost.
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 Old 10-19-2011, 03:02 PM   #116
 
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subbed once again to help another
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 Old 11-14-2011, 01:47 PM   #117
 
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great write up... question for anyone who will listen... I think and i say think because i bought my speed used... I think that i have a stock fp but i just finished logging on a 40F day and i didnt see my FP dip below 1700 I was told that if at wot it didnt dip below 1700 id be fine, From my logs everything stays just a bit richer than 14.1afr when Wot and ive got a good number of bolt ons does that mean i dont need a pump or i just dont need one yet
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 Old 12-28-2011, 12:39 PM   #118
 
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Until a few days ago I had the hypertech tune and even with my bold-ons I didn't have to worry about the HPFP as long as it was performing normally.
However, with this more aggressive tune (Versatune) I noticed an increase of the FRP even up to 1860PSI.
What does this mean? That I can delay the HPFP internals as of right now my stock pump with 64k miles on it is going unexpectedly strong?
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 Old 12-28-2011, 07:02 PM   #119
 
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Originally Posted by mituc View Post
Until a few days ago I had the hypertech tune and even with my bold-ons I didn't have to worry about the HPFP as long as it was performing normally.
However, with this more aggressive tune (Versatune) I noticed an increase of the FRP even up to 1860PSI.
What does this mean? That I can delay the HPFP internals as of right now my stock pump with 64k miles on it is going unexpectedly strong?
I think it means you just had a strong pump all long, and your previous tune didn't request as high of fuel pressure? I'm not sure, but i dont think that by switching from a hypertech to a versatune will make your CDFP "better."
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 Old 01-02-2012, 01:21 PM   #120
 
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Bob, no, I was wondering if it really can keep up or if maybe the increased FRP demand will not damage it in any way.

However, i decided to upgrade the pump internals. I don't feel safe at all with a more aggressive tune, a better flowing TMIC and a downpipe on stock pump internals. With hypertech everyone should be fine with full bolt-ons minus the pump internals, but not with a more aggressive tune.

Now, does it really matter if I get the KMD V3's or Autotech? Or just pick whichever I find first?
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