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__________________ If anyone needs install help in my area (Bergen County NJ) let me know. I have all the tools and work for cheap. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I see that you did now. Thanks. The threads about this problem was pages and pages of discussion, problems, tests, and finally a solution. The people that were all having failures watched that thread closely. But now the CDFP hubub has settled...people will find this thread A LOT easier considering the name when they search.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I checked out this thread because it's the first sticky in the Mazdaspeed3 How-To section.
__________________ Gay car #1: 2001 Miata (Gay White) Gay car #2: 2011 Mazda 2 (Gay Blue) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score How 'bout we just add to use motor oil as assembly lube instead of gasoline and, confirm torque values for the cap at 50 pounds/ft max? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score hi guys , i need your help , i tried to install a sb and a pnp arness yesterday , when i finished i start the car , and i have a cel p0091 , i put my ecu without sb and pnp , and this code disappear...my mods are wot bx n2mb , turboback 3" , boost tubes , one step colder ngk, cai injen , i have installed a atp fcd ,in this moment. |
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__________________ If anyone needs install help in my area (Bergen County NJ) let me know. I have all the tools and work for cheap. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Hey, I need some help with how to get stains out of jeans....oh wait....this isn't that thread? Crap....Well nice write up anyway! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Nice, lots of pics |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score So I'm just about to do the instal of the CPe pump, which blue relay do I need to pull? I don't see any that says "circuit". Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________ 07 MS3 - Cobb AP/PG Custom FMIC/Cobb RSB/Cobb XLE BPV/Fujita CAI/Jbarone SSP & Bushings/Jbarone AP mount/NGK Step Colder Plugs/ATP Catted DP/CP-e HPFP/PG Tow Plate/Protune (270whp/345wtq) |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score a ton of people seem to think this should be one of your first mods, even before SRI/DP/RP etc... anyone want to give their two cents? Thinking about doing this... |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score *** you should be able to pressurize the fuel system by holding your gas petal to the floor, this will turn over engine but you wont get any spark, this usually works on newer cars. idk |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Any idea why the factory manual states you should drain the coolant from the engine before removing the CDFP on the Gen2 Speed3? I have not seen that step outlined in any of the writeups on CDFP upgrades. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score No idea why they have that step. I didn't drain my coolant when I did mine.
__________________ 2010 Speed3-PTE5858 Freek built/Freektuned 510hp420tq 11.321@129.93 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Don't worry about pulling the relay...like someone else said...just hold down the gas pedal all the way to the floor and crank the motor. Watch your DI fuel pressure and after 5-10 seconds of cranking you will see the fuel preassure quickly rise above 500. once its primed let off the gas and start it normally. I've personally done this about a dozen times on my car...and multiple times on my buddies cars when I was changing out fuel pumps.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score reading some of the threads regarding the hpfp installs, I have not come across anyone mentioning how to re-install the pump and some of the difficulties. I am starting to think that it may just be me but I can not get the pump back in. I am trying really hard to align the 3 etorx bolts but I can not press onto the fp hard enough.. Any suggestions?
__________________ Cp-e HPFP : JBR 80duro RMM : JBR Special Edition Heavy Shift Knob : JBR EGR Delete : Matt Damond OCC kit : Cobb AP : Cobb DP : Cobb BPV XLE : ETS TMIC : CP-e SRI : Cp-e TIP : Magnaflow CBE : Aeroforce Interceptor Dual Gauge : Blockhead vent pod :PERM Tuned : H&R Springs : TSW Nurburgring 18x8.5 w/ 235/45 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo : DDM 6000k Lows : DDM 3000k Fogs : Corksport LED light kit : 3M 35% color stable tint |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score it happened to bmorrisj hit him up. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Wow, I still can't believe how tough this install has been. I have the cp-e fuel pump and have followed this install guide--until I was ready to install the pump back in, everything went smoothly. So the advice so far that I have received is to just torque the etorx bolts back in slowly one by one--this is a lot easier said than done. There is so much resistance getting the pump back into place that myself and my buddy could not even get close. At one point we got one of the bolts back in partially but that was about as close as we got to it. I even tried to screw the 19mm nut back in first in hopes of aligning in correctly and then getting the etorx botls lined up--this even failed. I don't want to keep forcing the fp back into place with this much resistance. Had to leave my car at my friends house for the night and will try again tomorrow. Any input would be appreciated. The pic below is where I am at right now.
__________________ Cp-e HPFP : JBR 80duro RMM : JBR Special Edition Heavy Shift Knob : JBR EGR Delete : Matt Damond OCC kit : Cobb AP : Cobb DP : Cobb BPV XLE : ETS TMIC : CP-e SRI : Cp-e TIP : Magnaflow CBE : Aeroforce Interceptor Dual Gauge : Blockhead vent pod :PERM Tuned : H&R Springs : TSW Nurburgring 18x8.5 w/ 235/45 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo : DDM 6000k Lows : DDM 3000k Fogs : Corksport LED light kit : 3M 35% color stable tint |
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__________________ 2012 ingot silver mustang gt w/ 6 speed, 3.73 rear end, bama 93 tune, cat deletes, boss 302 oil cooler, roush cai, dynotech aluminum driveshaft, ford racing strut tower brace, dampers & springs, boss 302 sway bars, gt500 strut mounts, lower control arms & axle backs, j&m adjustable panhard bar, steeda upper control arm & 3 point braces, jlt catch can, barton short shifter & shift bracket |
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__________________ 2012 ingot silver mustang gt w/ 6 speed, 3.73 rear end, bama 93 tune, cat deletes, boss 302 oil cooler, roush cai, dynotech aluminum driveshaft, ford racing strut tower brace, dampers & springs, boss 302 sway bars, gt500 strut mounts, lower control arms & axle backs, j&m adjustable panhard bar, steeda upper control arm & 3 point braces, jlt catch can, barton short shifter & shift bracket |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score it does not. I got a pm from bmorrisj and it looks like the cam follower needs to be depressed in again in order to fit the fuel pump back to where it belongs. Fucking noob fail by me but I am learning, which is great.
__________________ Cp-e HPFP : JBR 80duro RMM : JBR Special Edition Heavy Shift Knob : JBR EGR Delete : Matt Damond OCC kit : Cobb AP : Cobb DP : Cobb BPV XLE : ETS TMIC : CP-e SRI : Cp-e TIP : Magnaflow CBE : Aeroforce Interceptor Dual Gauge : Blockhead vent pod :PERM Tuned : H&R Springs : TSW Nurburgring 18x8.5 w/ 235/45 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo : DDM 6000k Lows : DDM 3000k Fogs : Corksport LED light kit : 3M 35% color stable tint Last edited by dizzydtrain; 03-05-2011 at 07:46 PM. |
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__________________ 2012 ingot silver mustang gt w/ 6 speed, 3.73 rear end, bama 93 tune, cat deletes, boss 302 oil cooler, roush cai, dynotech aluminum driveshaft, ford racing strut tower brace, dampers & springs, boss 302 sway bars, gt500 strut mounts, lower control arms & axle backs, j&m adjustable panhard bar, steeda upper control arm & 3 point braces, jlt catch can, barton short shifter & shift bracket |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Make sure the cam follower slides in and out easily. What i think is happening is that the cam stopped in the pumps fully compressed position. Therefor making you compress the pump while its going in. Try to turn the engine over by hand by putting a ratchet on the crank pully, and have a friend watch the cam follower until it's at the furthest in position. I think that will help you out.
__________________ 2010 Speed3-PTE5858 Freek built/Freektuned 510hp420tq 11.321@129.93 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score still having some issues. The cam lobe is that bronze looking pin where the hpfp spring would be insterted in, correct? I am bump starting the car but it's still in the same position.
__________________ Cp-e HPFP : JBR 80duro RMM : JBR Special Edition Heavy Shift Knob : JBR EGR Delete : Matt Damond OCC kit : Cobb AP : Cobb DP : Cobb BPV XLE : ETS TMIC : CP-e SRI : Cp-e TIP : Magnaflow CBE : Aeroforce Interceptor Dual Gauge : Blockhead vent pod :PERM Tuned : H&R Springs : TSW Nurburgring 18x8.5 w/ 235/45 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo : DDM 6000k Lows : DDM 3000k Fogs : Corksport LED light kit : 3M 35% color stable tint |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yea the Cam follower is just pushed up by the cam. I've put on the fuel pump almost a dozen times now lol...and this happens every now and then. Just fully remove the fuel pump, hop in the car, depress the clutch and the gas pedal all the way (so the injectors won't fire) and just flip the key on and off real quick to turn the engine over for a breif second. This will turn over the motor...turning the cam as well. Its nothing cosmic...just turn over the engine and try inserting the fuel pump. It should go in easier (so to speak). If not...try it again. I bet your cam follower is extended all the way...thats why you can even get it close. Any other position and you should be able to depress it enough to at least get one bolt in...then you can get the others on and slowly screw it down onto the engine.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I was posting in the other thread. I was able to get it done today, it was a pain in the ass to get the follower (cup) back in due to the cold weather we had here but I got in after a while. You are right tho, the cam follower was extended all the way.
__________________ Cp-e HPFP : JBR 80duro RMM : JBR Special Edition Heavy Shift Knob : JBR EGR Delete : Matt Damond OCC kit : Cobb AP : Cobb DP : Cobb BPV XLE : ETS TMIC : CP-e SRI : Cp-e TIP : Magnaflow CBE : Aeroforce Interceptor Dual Gauge : Blockhead vent pod :PERM Tuned : H&R Springs : TSW Nurburgring 18x8.5 w/ 235/45 Hankook Ventus V12 Evo : DDM 6000k Lows : DDM 3000k Fogs : Corksport LED light kit : 3M 35% color stable tint |
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Do we flip the key to the "ON' position or the "START" position? The car battery has to be connected to do so right? Sorry about the dump questions...
__________________ ||Cobb AP(DJ tuned)||Cobb SRI||Cobb TIP||Cobb FMIC||Cobb SW||KMD v2.2 HPFP||Catted TBE(TurboXS DownPipe+Vibrant DPback)||TurboXS Hybrid BOV||Fortune Auto Coilovers||Powergrid Endlinks||Eibach Camber Kit||CPE RMM||Denso ITV22||STRI DSD 60mm Boost Gauge||5000K HID Fogs||Lamin-x Foglight Tints||Speedy Lite-Fin 18x7.5||General UHP 235/40/18||ADR 17x7(Winter)||Nextmod GV front Lip/spoiler Lip||AutoEXE Carbon Fiber Shifter Knob||Carbon Fiber Ebrake Cover||TWM Bushings||TWM Shift/Ebrake Boots|| | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score You actually need get the engine moving to move the follower, so push down the gas and clutch so the injectors aren't active and just give it a quick tap to START to roll it over.
__________________ Some things. |
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__________________ 07 MS3 GT {DD} \\ 295whp 328wtq (pre E mix) \\ Cobb AP {Stage 2} \\ MS CAI & CBE \\ ATP DP/MP {catless} \\ Corksport TMIC \\ SURE TIH \\ TurboSmart Kompact BPV \\ AutoTech FP internals \\ Denso ITV22's \\ SU RMM \\ Ralco STS\\ Hawk HPS pads \\ StopTech rotors \\ Sensen dampers \\ Moog swaybar links \\ DashHawk \\ 225/45 Kuhmo Ecsta XS's on 18x7.5 Momo S-five's \\ 205/60-16 Dunlop Winter Sport 3D's on steelies 1:3 E85 mix Dizzy tuned by Boost_creep ...... sold :-( |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score great write up i gotta do this next im getting fuel cut after i put that Catless Dp on
__________________ _____________________________________________ 2008 Silver Gen 1, MS3 MSCAI, Cobb TIP, Full Catless Race/Downpipe, Cobb XLE Bpv, MAPerformance rmm, Cobb AP, HPFP, xt-m5-qs, Shift bushings(washers), denso ITV22, Torque Android app, . |
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Anyway, much better after the AutoTech internals install. Pretty easy install (once you have all the tools, DOH!)
__________________ 07 MS3 GT {DD} \\ 295whp 328wtq (pre E mix) \\ Cobb AP {Stage 2} \\ MS CAI & CBE \\ ATP DP/MP {catless} \\ Corksport TMIC \\ SURE TIH \\ TurboSmart Kompact BPV \\ AutoTech FP internals \\ Denso ITV22's \\ SU RMM \\ Ralco STS\\ Hawk HPS pads \\ StopTech rotors \\ Sensen dampers \\ Moog swaybar links \\ DashHawk \\ 225/45 Kuhmo Ecsta XS's on 18x7.5 Momo S-five's \\ 205/60-16 Dunlop Winter Sport 3D's on steelies 1:3 E85 mix Dizzy tuned by Boost_creep ...... sold :-( | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i need to order and install one really bad. i blew a plug and pulled a p0301 and pretty much that plug from the first cylinder was toasted and had nomore gap. finally replaced my plugs to step colders but since then i've been scared to boost. |
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![]() | | #116 | ![]() |
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__________________ 2011 Black Mica - Daily JBR SSP and heavy knob and SSB | Sure RMM | Corksport SRI/TIP/RSB/TMIC | Tanabe FSTB | Cobb AP getting PERM'd | Autotech internals | H&R springs | DDM HID | pussy delete - catless ebay dp and tp |
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![]() | | #117 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score great write up... question for anyone who will listen... I think and i say think because i bought my speed used... I think that i have a stock fp but i just finished logging on a 40F day and i didnt see my FP dip below 1700 I was told that if at wot it didnt dip below 1700 id be fine, From my logs everything stays just a bit richer than 14.1afr when Wot and ive got a good number of bolt ons does that mean i dont need a pump or i just dont need one yet
__________________ _____________________________________________ 2008 Silver Gen 1, MS3 MSCAI, Cobb TIP, Full Catless Race/Downpipe, Cobb XLE Bpv, MAPerformance rmm, Cobb AP, HPFP, xt-m5-qs, Shift bushings(washers), denso ITV22, Torque Android app, . |
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![]() | | #118 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Until a few days ago I had the hypertech tune and even with my bold-ons I didn't have to worry about the HPFP as long as it was performing normally. However, with this more aggressive tune (Versatune) I noticed an increase of the FRP even up to 1860PSI. What does this mean? That I can delay the HPFP internals as of right now my stock pump with 64k miles on it is going unexpectedly strong?
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![]() | | #120 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Bob, no, I was wondering if it really can keep up or if maybe the increased FRP demand will not damage it in any way. However, i decided to upgrade the pump internals. I don't feel safe at all with a more aggressive tune, a better flowing TMIC and a downpipe on stock pump internals. With hypertech everyone should be fine with full bolt-ons minus the pump internals, but not with a more aggressive tune. Now, does it really matter if I get the KMD V3's or Autotech? Or just pick whichever I find first?
__________________ 2008 Cosmic Blue Mazda 3MPS Bilstein B12 + CS Camber plates + Eibach camber arms, SSR Type-F, Michelin PS4 225/40/R18, Cobb RMM, StopTech Street Pads + Stoptech Slotted disks, SouthBend Enduro Stage3 clutch, genpu TMM + CS Insert, TheSpeedLine 2X Rear Cross Floor and Rear Middle Lower Strut bars, Tanabe 4 Point Under Brace, Whiteline Bumpsteeer corection kit JBR Tru-3" + CS CAI Box, CP-e TMIC, Cobb XLE, NGK LTR7IX, UR v3 catted DP and res&catted TP, Cobb CatBack, GS EBCS, Autotech internals, GTX3071r gen2, CS 3.5BAR, Guardian Angel, CoolingMist WMI, VCTS Delete, stock ported IM, CorkSport cam shafts Mahle 88mm 4032 9.6:1 pistons, Manley rods, CA625+ head studs, King rod&main bearings, CS seals, DCR VVT, Koyorad radiator. StratiVersaTuned FTW to 28PSI, self-tuned to 32PSI 2008 Icy Blue Mazda CX7 6 Speed Manual SU TMIC, Autotech HPFP internals, Cobb XLE, Cobb EBCS, CorkSport 3.5BAR MAP GTX2867R gen2, stock spark plugs, stock cats and stock exhaust FTW, JBR Tru-3" Silicone intake TheSpeedLine Top and Lower Strut bars self-Versatuned to 22PSI |
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