HOW TO: Remove Valve Seals In and Out of Car

[Rokusek]

Ok gents so here's what I got, and without a doubt phate; and silvapain; said this was super easy... I think that's an understatement, so just sitting on my couch I grabbed my spare head and set it on my coffee table.


I first placed some napkins under the seals/valves I was going to be playing with like so:


From there I grabbed a 3/8's ratchet with a 6" extension and a 15mm crows foot and set it up like so:




Then I placed the crows foot on top of the retainer (correct me if I'm wrong in the names) like this:




I then used the ratchet crows foot combo to compress the spring and retainer and used a small magnetic flat head to grab the keepers like so:




In this step above be sure that the keepers are spun so the halves face are perpendicular to how the cams sit otherwise the one closest to the ratchet will get stuck and you might just have it pop out and smack you in the face as I did... Soo keep that in mind.

I then pulled out the retainer and the spring and you'll have just the seal left to remove:


Next I took a small 45* angled hook and pulled off the spring around the top of the seal to allow the seal to come out easier:


NOTE:

Originally Posted by 06Speed6 I usually dont remove the spring around the seal because I am always afraid that I am going to lose it in the head somewhere. Usually after the seal has worn some it isnt really very tight at all.

From there I took my small magnetic flat head and placed it between the lip of the seal and the lip on the machined surface where the seal sits and twisted to help free the seal and make for an easy removal:



I then used a long set of needle nose to remove the seal completely:




I then simply slid the valves out of the guides and this is what you have left over:






Now this was super easy with the head sitting on my coffee table, if it where still in the car there is one of three ways that I have read to keep the valves in place while you do this.

1.) Place that specific cylinder at TDC and allow the valve to sit on the piston, this is what seams to the easiest way though I do not feel comfortable letting the valve drop onto the piston like that. Plus you may have to compress the spring more this way as the valve will be siting lower in the guide then if you do it one of the other ways.

2.) Remove the spark plug in that cylinder, have the piston halfway to TDC position and use 1/4" thick wax coated rope or climbing rope and push it into the combustion chamber through the hole for the spark plug twisting it only in one direction to allow it to coil up on top of the piston.

Originally Posted by 06Speed6 You only need a 1' or 1.5' of rope, there isnt alot of room in there.

Once this is done then soon the crank to get the piston as close to TDC as possible, place the car in 5th or 6th gear to keep the crank from spinning. Then move forward with the steps I listed above for spring and seal removal.

Or 3.) place cylinder at TDC, put car in 5th or 6th gear. Use a compression adapter for you air hose to pressurize the cylinder. Only pressurize to 20-40psi as this is more than enough to keep the valve from falling. And press on.

Now these last three steps are all performed with the head still in the car (just making sure I say that again) And this WILL require you to break timing and remove the intake/exhaust cam (whichever you are replacing) along with the timing cover. So you will need to buy a new crank bolt, 3 crank friction washers and a cam bolt with friction washer.
phate; I love you buddy but I'm glad I didn't sell you this head as it has now become my school book for today's lesson!

Thanks again for your help.

Notes and other things to keep in mind:

Originally Posted by 06Speed6 You can also use a O2 sensor socket to remove the valve spring, but keep in mind that with either the crows foot or O2 sensor socket it is going to probably be a two man job to reinstall the locks. Those bitches aint easy to put back in with one hand. An actual valve spring compressor makes it way easier.

Thank you good sir!

ADDING VIDEO OF INSTALLATION OUT OF CAR:

Thanks again chris for taking the video!

Originally Posted by Downmented Rokusek valve seal replacement - YouTube

[2.0t03speed]

Damnnnn nigga you so smart haha. You will have some legit pics for your in car valve seal replacement =)

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by 2.0t03speed Damnnnn nigga you so smart haha. You will have some legit pics for your in car valve seal replacement =) Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

yea if you didnt go to Lous house to work on his car you could have taken these pics... just saying...

[2.0t03speed]

Originally Posted by Rokusek yea if you didnt go to Lous house to work on his car you could have taken these pics... just saying...

Lol sorry bro.

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk 2

[06Speed6]

Couple things to add to make peoples lives easier:

1: You only need a 1' or 1.5' of rope, there isnt alot of room in there.

2: I usually dont remove the spring around the seal because I am always afraid that I am going to lose it in the head somewhere. Usually after the seal has worn some it isnt really very tight at all.

3: You can also use a O2 sensor socket to remove the valve spring, but keep in mind that with either the crows foot or O2 sensor socket it is going to probably be a two man job to reinstall the locks. Those bitches aint easy to put back in with one hand. An actual valve spring compressor makes it way easier.

[Rokusek]

Editing OP now!

Thanks @06Speed6;

[TiGraySpeed6]

Love seeing these old age maintenance things!!
Lot of us are starting to get on in mileage and this is really helpful!

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by TiGraySpeed6 Love seeing these old age maintenance things!! Lot of us are starting to get on in mileage and this is really helpful!

I searched on here for idk... hours yesterday and couldnt find anything on it... so i googled it and talked with a few of the GH's and one of my local buddies and put this together.

When I actually swap out the seal, I'm going to do a VVT HOW-TO (sorry @Raider; for not doing this before) along with adding more in depth pictures to this for a full blown in car replacement. Hopefully it will be done this weekend (pending on when parts and tools arrive).

My hands hurt pretty bad using this method after removing all the valves from this head last night to get some good practice. Tonight I will reinstall them so I am confident in doing so.

Heres what I got.

[RogerH]

Does anyone know where to find valve guides? I looked at parts drawings at mazdapartsonline.com and all I saw were the intake and exhaust valve seals. I saw nothing about guides. I have replaced guides on older heads from other mfg engines when I rebuilt heads. Just wondering about the turbo 2.3.

[Rokusek]

I was never able to find them there in any kind of diagram, just call the number on the website and tell them what you are looking for and they will set you up.

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by Rokusek Ok gents so here's what I got, and without a doubt phate; and silvapain; said this was super easy... I think that's an understatement, so just sitting on my couch I grabbed my spare head and set it on my coffee table. I first placed some napkins under the seals/valves I was going to be playing with like so: From there I grabbed a 3/8's ratchet with a 6" extension and a 15mm crows foot and set it up like so: Then I placed the crows foot on top of the retainer (correct me if I'm wrong in the names) like this: I then used the ratchet crows foot combo to compress the spring and retainer and used a small magnetic flat head to grab the keepers like so: In this step above be sure that the keepers are spun so the halves face are perpendicular to how the cams sit otherwise the one closest to the ratchet will get stuck and you might just have it pop out and smack you in the face as I did... Soo keep that in mind. I then pulled out the retainer and the spring and you'll have just the seal left to remove: Next I took a small 45* angled hook and pulled off the spring around the top of the seal to allow the seal to come out easier: NOTE: From there I took my small magnetic flat head and placed it between the lip of the seal and the lip on the machined surface where the seal sits and twisted to help free the seal and make for an easy removal: I then used a long set of needle nose to remove the seal completely: I then simply slid the valves out of the guides and this is what you have left over: Now this was super easy with the head sitting on my coffee table, if it where still in the car there is one of three ways that I have read to keep the valves in place while you do this. 1.) Place that specific cylinder at TDC and allow the valve to sit on the piston, this is what seams to the easiest way though I do not feel comfortable letting the valve drop onto the piston like that. Plus you may have to compress the spring more this way as the valve will be siting lower in the guide then if you do it one of the other ways. 2.) Remove the spark plug in that cylinder, have the piston halfway to TDC position and use 1/4" thick wax coated rope or climbing rope and push it into the combustion chamber through the hole for the spark plug twisting it only in one direction to allow it to coil up on top of the piston. Once this is done then soon the crank to get the piston as close to TDC as possible, place the car in 5th or 6th gear to keep the crank from spinning. Then move forward with the steps I listed above for spring and seal removal. Or 3.) place cylinder at TDC, put car in 5th or 6th gear. Use a compression adapter for you air hose to pressurize the cylinder. Only pressurize to 20-40psi as this is more than enough to keep the valve from falling. And press on. Now these last three steps are all performed with the head still in the car (just making sure I say that again) And this WILL require you to break timing and remove the intake/exhaust cam (whichever you are replacing) along with the timing cover. So you will need to buy a new crank bolt, 3 crank friction washers and a cam bolt with friction washer. phate; I love you buddy but I'm glad I didn't sell you this head as it has now become my school book for today's lesson! Thanks again for your help. Notes and other things to keep in mind: Thank you good sir!

PJ,

Is it possible to do this in the car without breaking the lower timing by using DJ's method of replacing head studs ? Seems to me like it should be.

[Rokusek]

Ahhhhh why you quote whole op lol


Link me so I can see what your talking about. Havent been following to much of anything lately.

[Mandinca]

Because I still haven't figured out how to only include some of the post.
Here's DJ's how to.

How-to swap head studs in the car

Question is, can I undo the exhaust sprocket using this method and remove both cam shafts, change the seals then put it all back together with a new friction washer and be done or do I have to remove the head ? Ideally I would do the valves, guides, springs everything but I'm looking at quick fix right now. Can you see anything to stop me doing this ?

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by Mandinca Because I still haven't figured out how to only include some of the post. Here's DJ's how to. How-to swap head studs in the car Question is, can I undo the exhaust sprocket using this method and remove both cam shafts, change the seals then put it all back together with a new friction washer and be done or do I have to remove the head ? Ideally I would do the valves, guides, springs everything but I'm looking at quick fix right now. Can you see anything to stop me doing this ?

ABSOLUTELY USE THIS!!!!


EDIT: Wait... if you do it this way... Idk how spinning the crank would work out for you. because what ever seals are being replaced that cylinder MUST be at TDC to help prevent the valve from falling into the cylinder.

Unless DJ has some insight on this... Idk how it would work. You might have to break timing down low in order to spin the crank without the risk of the chain falling off the sprocket on the crank. hmmm...


@djuosnteisn; Im linking your thread in this OP for those who want to do this in the car as I never got around to the INCAR part. and yours is BY THE BOOK GOOD!!!

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by Rokusek ABSOLUTELY USE THIS!!!! EDIT: Wait... if you do it this way... Idk how spinning the crank would work out for you. because what ever seals are being replaced that cylinder MUST be at TDC to help prevent the valve from falling into the cylinder. Unless DJ has some insight on this... Idk how it would work. You might have to break timing down low in order to spin the crank without the risk of the chain falling off the sprocket on the crank. hmmm... @djuosnteisn; Im linking your thread in this OP for those who want to do this in the car as I never got around to the INCAR part. and yours is BY THE BOOK GOOD!!!

With the camshafts both off wouldn't all the valves be in the closed position anyway since the cam lobes would not be pushing on the cam followers ? Maybe I'm missing something there.
I could then use the compressed air technique for the other two cylinders. I'm not too comfortable with that but it would work so long as I maintain pressure in the cylinders.

This brings up another question. If my assumption of closed valves is correct, how hard is it to get the camshafts back in place since I now have to force some of the valves open to get the camshafts back in their correct location ?

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by Mandinca With the camshafts both off wouldn't all the valves be in the closed position anyway since the cam lobes would not be pushing on the cam followers ? Maybe I'm missing something there. Yes this is true. However, If there is nothing to hold the valve from the bottom there is a possibility of the valve dropping if you're not careful. More below. I could then use the compressed air technique for the other two cylinders. I'm not too comfortable with that but it would work so long as I maintain pressure in the cylinders. You can use a compressor, or as stated in OP you can also insert rope into the cylinder through the Spark plug holes. More explained below. This brings up another question. If my assumption of closed valves is correct, how hard is it to get the camshafts back in place since I now have to force some of the valves open to get the camshafts back in their correct location ? It wont be hard at all you would set the cam down in the orientation that it is supposed to be when timing the motor (cylinder 1 lobes on both the cams pointed pointed in towards eachother and up.)

My thoughts in Orange---^^^

The only problem i see doing it using DJ's method is that the crank has to be spun during this process if more that one cylinder is getting new seals. My personal preference is to bring the piston down, put rope in there, then raise it back to TDC. What this does, is allows you to removed the spring retainers and pull the seal off without the valve dropping into the cylinder. If the Piston IS NOT at TDC there is a chance the valve will fall. YOU DO NOT WANT THAT!

So doing this with DJ's method may not work so well. When I responded originally I didnt think to much more into it other than "OMG we dont have to break lower timing" but reading more into i realized thats just not the case here.

Did that help at all?

-PJ

[Mandinca]

Kinda yes, and kinda no 

I was planning on using the rope trick with 1 and 4, drop the piston, feed the rope in then using the timing bolt in the blind plug get the motor back as close to TDC as I could.
2 and 3 are the problem children.
Presumably with 1 and 4 at the top of their stroke 2 and 3 are at the bottom of theirs. After 1 and 4 compress, what is 2 and 3’s next TDC stroke, compression or exhaust ?

I would bet that with an extra pair of hands to guide the chain and keep it taught, I could gently turn the engine over at the crank bolt until 2 and 3 were at TDC compressions stroke and use the rope trick on them as well. I wouldn’t think the chain would just fall off the bottom sprocket if it was being held tight / guided.
Then when done, gently bring 1 back to TDC compression and put it back together.

Sounds easy…..riiiiight. Timing makes me extremely nervous but I guess as long as I don’t let the chain come off the bottom sprocket I should be ok. I attacked the timing once before but couldn’t get enough slack in the chain when wrenching on the cam shaft hex moulding. I think my chain and tensioners were shot as it was right before my VVT was done (I was attempting it myself and bailed because I couldn’t loosen the chain). I just don’t want to tear it down and get stuck again like last time. Will the fact that I have new (20K) timing mean I should be able to get enough slack in the chain by wrenching on the hex moulding to be able to remove and replace the exhaust cam sprocket ? DJ’s write up suggests pinning the guide so the tensioner can’t tighten the chain as soon as the sprocket is off.

You say it won’t be hard at all to put the camshaft down, surely I will be pushing against some of the springs as some of the valves are meant to be open when cyl 1 is TDC. I guess the springs aren’t that tough to compress.

Does anyone have the dimensions of the timing tools, I wrote them down but I’ve gone and lost them. I was planning on making my own rather than buying a set or renting them “again”.

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by Mandinca Kinda yes, and kinda no  I was planning on using the rope trick with 1 and 4, drop the piston, feed the rope in then using the timing bolt in the blind plug get the motor back as close to TDC as I could. 2 and 3 are the problem children. Presumably with 1 and 4 at the top of their stroke 2 and 3 are at the bottom of theirs. After 1 and 4 compress, what is 2 and 3’s next TDC stroke, compression or exhaust ? I would bet that with an extra pair of hands to guide the chain and keep it taught, I could gently turn the engine over at the crank bolt until 2 and 3 were at TDC compressions stroke and use the rope trick on them as well. I wouldn’t think the chain would just fall off the bottom sprocket if it was being held tight / guided. Then when done, gently bring 1 back to TDC compression and put it back together. Sounds easy…..riiiiight. Timing makes me extremely nervous but I guess as long as I don’t let the chain come off the bottom sprocket I should be ok. I attacked the timing once before but couldn’t get enough slack in the chain when wrenching on the cam shaft hex moulding. I think my chain and tensioners were shot as it was right before my VVT was done (I was attempting it myself and bailed because I couldn’t loosen the chain). I just don’t want to tear it down and get stuck again like last time. Will the fact that I have new (20K) timing mean I should be able to get enough slack in the chain by wrenching on the hex moulding to be able to remove and replace the exhaust cam sprocket ? DJ’s write up suggests pinning the guide so the tensioner can’t tighten the chain as soon as the sprocket is off. You say it won’t be hard at all to put the camshaft down, surely I will be pushing against some of the springs as some of the valves are meant to be open when cyl 1 is TDC. I guess the springs aren’t that tough to compress. Does anyone have the dimensions of the timing tools, I wrote them down but I’ve gone and lost them. I was planning on making my own rather than buying a set or renting them “again”.

Technically, If the cams are not in place when you spin the crank over the valves aren't moving, therefore it does not matter what stroke the crank is in. As long as the cylinder you're working on is TDC it wont be an issue.

Read this OP and hopefully it will help and there is a link to find timing tools is in the OP. I would just buy them if you can. Then you have them and dont have to worry about specs for them.

I have spoke with JP and Alan EdgeAutosport.com; and have shared the timing tools with them in hopes that they will soon be available through edge soon. Just a thought.

Again after going over all this, I think breaking timing down low as if you where swapping VVT would be the best way to do this.

A second pair of hands is always a good idea. I never try and do stuff like this by myself.

as far as putting the cams back in if you follow the FSM it wont be a problem. I think you are looking to far into it, my VVT thread explains more on that.

-PJ

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by Rokusek Technically, If the cams are not in place when you spin the crank over the valves aren't moving, therefore it does not matter what stroke the crank is in. As long as the cylinder you're working on is TDC it wont be an issue. Read this OP and hopefully it will help and there is a link to find timing tools is in the OP. I would just buy them if you can. Then you have them and dont have to worry about specs for them. I have spoke with JP and Alan EdgeAutosport.com; and have shared the timing tools with them in hopes that they will soon be available through edge soon. Just a thought. Again after going over all this, I think breaking timing down low as if you where swapping VVT would be the best way to do this. A second pair of hands is always a good idea. I never try and do stuff like this by myself. as far as putting the cams back in if you follow the FSM it wont be a problem. I think you are looking to far into it, my VVT thread explains more on that. -PJ

The last thing I want to do is break lower timing, the more I undo the more chance of fail and as this is DD anything more than a day off the road is a serious problem for me. If I do it without breaking lower timing I’ll make sure I have the TTY crank bolt and washers etc on hand just in case. If push comes to shove I’ll have to do it.
When I attempted my VVT I couldn't see how I could possibly get my hands down the side of the engine to remove the pulleys and TC bolts, didn't look like enough room.

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by Mandinca The last thing I want to do is break lower timing, the more I undo the more chance of fail and as this is DD anything more than a day off the road is a serious problem for me. If I do it without breaking lower timing I’ll make sure I have the TTY crank bolt and washers etc on hand just in case. If push comes to shove I’ll have to do it. When I attempted my VVT I couldn't see how I could possibly get my hands down the side of the engine to remove the pulleys and TC bolts, didn't look like enough room.

In all honesty, breaking timing down low and pulling the cover is going to be your safest plan of action.

Lets say you use DJ's method, and the chain falls or the guide arm is not locked in place and the tentioner releases. then what? You have to pull the timing cover. There is room to pull the pullys off, I have done it myself in the car multiple times.

Also if you break timing down low, you will know for sure that the motor is properly timed when you put it all back together. YES it is extensive, however, IMHO I would go by VVT way to do it. If you didnt have to spin the crank at all and just do one seal above cylinder 1 sure use DJ's method.

But using his method for replacing more than one seal that wont be on a TDC cylinder scares me because of the possibility of failure.

Over all its your choice on how you do it. I have never done it using DJ's method so I honestly cant say how it may or may not go. It's all speculation.

[MSP611]

Dopw write up +1

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I747 using Tapatalk 2

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by Rokusek In all honesty, breaking timing down low and pulling the cover is going to be your safest plan of action. Lets say you use DJ's method, and the chain falls or the guide arm is not locked in place and the tentioner releases. then what? You have to pull the timing cover. There is room to pull the pullys off, I have done it myself in the car multiple times. Also if you break timing down low, you will know for sure that the motor is properly timed when you put it all back together. YES it is extensive, however, IMHO I would go by VVT way to do it. If you didnt have to spin the crank at all and just do one seal above cylinder 1 sure use DJ's method. But using his method for replacing more than one seal that wont be on a TDC cylinder scares me because of the possibility of failure. Over all its your choice on how you do it. I have never done it using DJ's method so I honestly cant say how it may or may not go. It's all speculation.

You may have just talked me into it. Although I would rather not break lower timing I can see the benefits of doing so. When I tried my VVT I didn't remove things like the PMM, PSP, pulleys etc. Looks like that frees up quite a lot of room to get the TC off.

My only other option would be to do 1 and 4, put the cams back in and loosely bolt them down, turn the motor so 2 and 3 are TDC, remove the cams again to replace thse seals then re-assemble, time etc.

Not sure if that would be more or less prone to fail, not to mention time consuming.

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by Mandinca You may have just talked me into it. Although I would rather not break lower timing I can see the benefits of doing so. When I tried my VVT I didn't remove things like the PMM, PSP, pulleys etc. Looks like that frees up quite a lot of room to get the TC off. My only other option would be to do 1 and 4, put the cams back in and loosely bolt them down, turn the motor so 2 and 3 are TDC, remove the cams again to replace thse seals then re-assemble, time etc. Not sure if that would be more or less prone to fail, not to mention time consuming.

That would just be a waiste of time to do it that way. I have pictures somewhere for in car valve seal swap. I'll have to find them and update OP.

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by Rokusek That would just be a waiste of time to do it that way. I have pictures somewhere for in car valve seal swap. I'll have to find them and update OP.

I was thinking it might be. I was reading your VVT swap post where you mention holding the crank pulley in place with M6x1 bolt. Don't you run the risk of cracking the TC by putting that much stress against one bolt holding the pulley in place ?

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by Mandinca I was thinking it might be. I was reading your VVT swap post where you mention holding the crank pulley in place with M6x1 bolt. Don't you run the risk of cracking the TC by putting that much stress against one bolt holding the pulley in place ?

I have not had a problem yet. as long as you use the proper bolt you should be fine.

[Mandinca]

I was thinking a little further into this. What do you think ?
Before I replace the seals I was thinking I could pull the VC and drop oil down the wells where the valve stems are. By the time I had put everything back together, if the seals were leaking, when I started the car I would get clouds of smoke (just like after a wet compression test).
No smoke - good seals, lots of smoke - bad seals.

A leakdown isn't going to highlight bad seals, just bad valve seats or rings. By bad valve seats I mean, my valves may not close properly since they've never been cleaned.

[Neubreed]

@Mandinca; per our conversation yesterday, i agree with @Rokusek; on the lower timing thing. i know you said you wanted to avoid it but like i said, if you pull the head off then you can give everything a good cleaning. im also a little fearful on the timing aspect of this motor so ive got a NATOR MI friend who will help me when the time comes (if your idea of oil on the valves shows bad seals). i also like roku's point of the timing will be much better if you disrupt all the timing.

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by Mandinca I was thinking a little further into this. What do you think ? Before I replace the seals I was thinking I could pull the VC and drop oil down the wells where the valve stems are. By the time I had put everything back together, if the seals were leaking, when I started the car I would get clouds of smoke (just like after a wet compression test). No smoke - good seals, lots of smoke - bad seals. A leakdown isn't going to highlight bad seals, just bad valve seats or rings. By bad valve seats I mean, my valves may not close properly since they've never been cleaned.

Oil in the wells is one way to inspect it, However it is not a gaurentee to show you the seal is leaking or not. Another way to tell is pull the intake manifold off and inspect each and every runner. If one specific runner is completely soaked and the rest are dry from the mating surface of the manifold on the head all the way down to the valves, then chances are you have a bad seal on that valve.

Originally Posted by Neubreed Mandinca; per our conversation yesterday, i agree with Rokusek; on the lower timing thing. i know you said you wanted to avoid it but like i said, if you pull the head off then you can give everything a good cleaning. im also a little fearful on the timing aspect of this motor so ive got a NATOR MI friend who will help me when the time comes (if your idea of oil on the valves shows bad seals). i also like roku's point of the timing will be much better if you disrupt all the timing.

Good point, And also while doing this if you go to the extreme of pulling the head off, you might as well clean your valves while your at it. You will need a new head gasket and head studs if that is the case.

[Mandinca]

Originally Posted by Rokusek Oil in the wells is one way to inspect it, However it is not a gaurentee to show you the seal is leaking or not. Another way to tell is pull the intake manifold off and inspect each and every runner. If one specific runner is completely soaked and the rest are dry from the mating surface of the manifold on the head all the way down to the valves, then chances are you have a bad seal on that valve. Good point, And also while doing this if you go to the extreme of pulling the head off, you might as well clean your valves while your at it. You will need a new head gasket and head studs if that is the case.

When you say "runner" I'm not sure I know what you mean. Do you mean the ports where the valves are visible when the IM is removed. 8 of them IIRC. I've attached a pic of what "I" am talking about - the channels leading from the IM mating surface down to the valves, are they the runners you talk about ?

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by Mandinca When you say "runner" I'm not sure I know what you mean. Do you mean the ports where the valves are visible when the IM is removed. 8 of them IIRC. I've attached a pic of what "I" am talking about - the channels leading from the IM mating surface down to the valves, are they the runners you talk about ?

Yes, those are called runners. and if they look as wet as those two its most likely a valve seal. If all your runners look like that then it is probably something else.

[Mandinca]

Great, well I have an oil air separator to put on so I'll have a look when I do that. Thanks

[Downmented]

I love you @Rokusek;

Rokusek valve seal replacement - YouTube

Rokusek valve seal replacement - YouTube

[Rokusek]

Thanks for posting this Chris!

OP updated with youtube link.

[silvapain]

I took an old spark plug socket and cut a window out of it to use to remove valve springs. It really only works if the head is off, though, as you need to use a large C-clamp to compress the spring and pop out the retainers.

[Faggmeister]

Just did mine today. I also had the head sitting on my workbench. I used an old pipe and cut out a portion at the bottom to fish out the retainers. Got my girlfriend to use her little fingers to move them around when setting them back into place (keeper!).

As far as removing the seal, I Used a 15mm socket and placed it over the old seal and wiggled it around to break it free. Then used it again to push the new seal on all the way.

Good write up though!! Much appreciated!

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by Kyl3honks Just did mine today. I also had the head sitting on my workbench. I used an old pipe and cut out a portion at the bottom to fish out the retainers. Got my girlfriend to use her little fingers to move them around when setting them back into place (keeper!). As far as removing the seal, I Used a 15mm socket and placed it over the old seal and wiggled it around to break it free. Then used it again to push the new seal on all the way. Good write up though!! Much appreciated!

You are welcome sir!

I have a few other write ups I am looking into doing here shortly. Pending on what @brandonf; Decides to do with his shift forks... *wink wink*

[redboat]

recommend Supertech or OEMvalve seals??

[redboat]

recommend Supertech or OEMvalve seals??

Supertech Valve Stem Seals 2 0L 2 3L Ford Mazda Duratec | eBay

[Rokusek]

When it comes to seals or gaskets of any kind I prefer OEM.

-PJ

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by Rokusek When it comes to seals or gaskets of any kind I prefer OEM. -PJ

Me too.

Sent from Stockish Pu