HOW-TO VVT

[Nickhxc4life]

Don't screw it up. This was honestly the hardest part of the whole job. Take your time and make sure you mark the bolt and the crank. Take your time and don't get frustrated and take an impact to it. The purpose of turning the bolt in stages is to allow it to cool. As you torque it the bolt stretches and creates heat so it needs to cool between turns. Make sure you have a friend available to mash on the brake pedal to keep everything in place and you should be good to go. Also, make sure you replace EVERY friction washer!!! You don't want to blow your engine because you wanted to save 15 bucks. Also, keep everything in ziplocs that you take off. Organization is key to this project. For the timing cover and valve cover I printed out an enlarged photo from the manual and glued it to cardboard. I then poked holes in the template and put each bolt in as I took it off. This really sped up the process of putting everything back together.

[aackthpt]

Originally Posted by SpoolinSpeed3..757 Toque to yield bolt. Essentially means it stretches. Should be outlined in the shop manual

Technically not torque to yield; this is called a torque+angle tightening strategy and it can be used to take the screw a known amount past yield but the basic reason for it is that it gives a more predictable elongation of the fastener which corresponds to a better known clamp load in the joint. The angle given has been back-calculated from the desired fastener elongation and the thread pitch. The fastener elongation was calculated from the material properties, fastener size, and desired clamp load.

In the factory this would be done automagically by the fastener tightening system provided to the assembly workers for that specific fastener or group of fasteners.

Either way, as he said, do what the manual says...

[Karmaisreal]

If I loosen the exhaust cam bolt to even the chain tension do I need to replace the bolt

[Nickhxc4life]

The bolt is fine. It is not a tty bolt but you DO need to replace the friction washer behind the cam.

[tmillner]

I spoke with the guys at sp63 and they said no, but I would replace the bolt and friction washer. I'm not one to spend extra money but for piece of mind it's worth it.

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[Nickhxc4life]

Make sure you pull the clip out of the chain tensioner prior to rotating the cam and exhaust gears

[Karmaisreal]

Alright cool, thanks. I’ll go ahead and replace both to have peace of mind.

[Nickhxc4life]

Make sure when you tighten those suckers down that you remove the cam tool first! You'll destroy the tool if you do the final torque with the tool still on the camshafts. Snug the bolts with a socket wrench to keep everything from moving then, remove the tool and torque to proper manual spec using a adjustable wrench on the cam shaft and torque wrench.

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by aackthpt Technically not torque to yield; this is called a torque+angle tightening strategy and it can be used to take the screw a known amount past yield but the basic reason for it is that it gives a more predictable elongation of the fastener which corresponds to a better known clamp load in the joint. The angle given has been back-calculated from the desired fastener elongation and the thread pitch. The fastener elongation was calculated from the material properties, fastener size, and desired clamp load. In the factory this would be done automagically by the fastener tightening system provided to the assembly workers for that specific fastener or group of fasteners. Either way, as he said, do what the manual says...

Half right. The technique is torque to angle. This bolt is torque to yield. It is not reusable.

[Karmaisreal]

Soo I did this, and I still get a light rattle on cold starts. Or only when I dont drive the car for about a day. Chain still gets tight after warm up, but I'm gonna pull the cover to double check.

Thoughts?

[SpoolinSpeed3..757]

Originally Posted by Ozynigma Half right. The technique is torque to angle. This bolt is torque to yield. It is not reusable.

Made it sound good while he was trying to explain it though didn't he? Lol

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

[flapjack]

Originally Posted by Karmaisreal Soo I did this, and I still get a light rattle on cold starts. Or only when I dont drive the car for about a day. Chain still gets tight after warm up, but I'm gonna pull the cover to double check. Thoughts?

Check your serpentine belt tensioner. Once it wears out it starts making a rattling sound on startup or when you turn on the AC.

[Karmaisreal]

Originally Posted by flapjack Check your serpentine belt tensioner. Once it wears out it starts making a rattling sound on startup or when you turn on the AC.

Replaced that during the install. Oem one was to hard to move lol.

[DEUCE SLUICE]

Just wanted to drop a note of thanks for this write-up. Did the whole thing with this guide and the Edge Autosport kit + alignment tools, and it went mostly without a hitch. The only real hangup was that I didn't know to check that the cam lobes were pointing up before undoing the crank bolt and did so with them upside-down, so we had to kind of put everything back together and spin it one more time to get the cam alignment plate in.

My chain was SUPER stretched out, to the point the tensioner had run out of travel!

There's still a bit of noise at startup so I probably should have done the serpentine belt tensioner, but I'll do that when I replace the AC compressor.

[SeeMeGovan]

Glad it went smoothly! Were you on all original hardware?

I definitely have been sitting on a new serpentine tensioner for like.... 2 years and still haven't put it in and it's been rattling forever. Finally bought a new serpentine belt so I'll hopefully squeeze it into my next oil change.

Sent from my LG-H918 using Tapatalk

[cmwest]

Awesome thread...So first i developed a nasty knock. Had a sloppy timing chain- so I decided to tackle the vvt job. Vvt actuator was hooped. After the how to I managed to complete successfully- thanks a bunch! Changed rod bearings and knock went away. After about 10km it returned but with a slightly different sound. maybe possibly bent a rod? I dunno.

[Jeff23spl]

You cannot replace rod bearing without sending the crank for machining to remove the ''out of round'', and then you will need oversize bearing to account for the milled size.
But to do so you need to take the engine apart

In other words, your engine is blown and you need a rebuild or a new engine

[cmwest]

Actually it was cylinder 3 that spun bearing. The bearing journals are within spec still. The crankshaft is OK. Yeah. In any case I will be l
ooking for another engine or gonna rebuild.

[gumis7]

Hi All
Thas't my first post - and question at the same time. Sorry if that might be not the way I should go about it. Please let me know.
I have 2009 Mazda 6 and timing cover has a tiny leak - small that it is just wet from the alternator side.
Amateur question - do i need to replace friction washers - if I only want to reseal timing cover? I have 2 washers( dealer said there are only 2) and crankshaft bolt.
I was just curious.
Thanks for advise.
@Rokusek; @SeeMeGovan

Sorry Guys for that post,
I just went through the post and got my answers.
thanks for all the info.
cheers

[gumis7]

In addition to all those great info - can't thank you enough guys, this might be very helpful link to some DYIers out there ( I just found it):
http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/NC%20Miata-MX-5%20MZR%20Engine%20Timing%20Procedure.pdf

[SeeMeGovan]

Originally Posted by gumis7 In addition to all those great info - can't thank you enough guys, this might be very helpful link to some DYIers out there ( I just found it): http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/manuals/NC%20Miata-MX-5%20MZR%20Engine%20Timing%20Procedure.pdf

Nice find, that manual seems pretty useful.

I hope you replaced all 3 friction washers while you were in there, they technically are one time use. That said, I couldn't get my oil pump sprocket off so I didn't replace the 3rd one and I haven't had any issues pushing stock torque +a little bit.

Sent from my LG-H931 using Tapatalk

[gumis7]

Originally Posted by SeeMeGovan Nice find, that manual seems pretty useful. I hope you replaced all 3 friction washers while you were in there, they technically are one time use. That said, I couldn't get my oil pump sprocket off so I didn't replace the 3rd one and I haven't had any issues pushing stock torque +a little bit. Sent from my LG-H931 using Tapatalk

Hi
Job done, only 2 friction washers, 2009 Mazda 6 has Crank Timing Sprocket and Crankshaft Oil Pump Sprocket as one piece - so only 2 washers.
Thanks again for all posts that ware really helpful.

[Shredhead86]

Ok, so used the TDC pin to make sure my engine was in the right place, but when I did that the timing plate didn’t fit in the slots on the end of the cams. I’m not sure if that means my motor was out of time or what but I had to rotate the cams to get them to fit. Now I’m not sure if I have my actuator in the right position. I haven’t really tightened anything down yet for just that reason. Can anyone tell me if it’s right?

[SeeMeGovan]

Originally Posted by Shredhead86 Ok, so used the TDC pin to make sure my engine was in the right place, but when I did that the timing plate didn’t fit in the slots on the end of the cams. I’m not sure if that means my motor was out of time or what but I had to rotate the cams to get them to fit. Now I’m not sure if I have my actuator in the right position. I haven’t really tightened anything down yet for just that reason. Can anyone tell me if it’s right?

Based on the picture it looks like your cams are aligned correctly, lobes closest to the cam sprocket are pointed towards each other, you can compare the other ones too. The VVT and other sprocket do not have an orientation per se but you want to tighten them with the CAP in place to make sure the chain is tensioned evenly. Assuming the CAP you have isn't a piece of shit, the slots in the end of the cams are asymmetric so it should only fit in one way and the TDC pin should be pretty much spot on touching your crankshaft while the CAP is in place or something is wrong. I had to *wiggle* my cams to get the plate to go in but you shouldn't have to rotate the cams much and in fact doing so may damage your valves as this is an interference engine. If you have followed the procedure you should have set the engine at TDC BEFORE loosening any of the cams and left it there as you replace the chain and VVT/sprocket, unless you're building this up from scratch then the TDC pin only sets the pistons and you will have to manually set the cam rotation using these pics and the CAP.

Also for the love of god clean all the gunk off your cams, is that engine sludge?? Jesus looks like somebody spread heavy grease on your cam lobes.

[SeeMeGovan]

I fixed the pics from OP.


TAKE YOUR TIME AND READ THE ENTIRE THREAD!!!!


Do it the right way and do it once, read over this a few times and make sure you know exactly what needs to happen in the order it needs to happen. Be sure to have this and the FSM handy for quick reference on torque specs (though I have listed a few, you still need to know some others as well as the order in which things should be tightened) and anything else I may or may not have inputed into this How-To.

EDIT, Link added 4/8/14: Huge thanks to @SeeMeGovan; for his input here open this link in a new tab to use as a reference as well. He did one hell of a write up to add to this one.

EDIT, added 8/26, Torque specs, thanks @frothy;


Torque Specs:

VVT Actuator and Exhaust Sprocket bolts: 51-55ft-lbf

Timing Cover: Bolts 1-18: 71-101in-lbf
Bolts 19-22: 30-40ft-lbf

Crankshaft: 1st step: 70.9-76.7ft-lbf
2nd step: 87-93 degrees

Lower Blind Plug: 14-16ft-lbf

Water Pump Pulley Bolts: 13-16ft-lbf

Idler Pulley Bolt: 15-22ft-lbf

Passenger Side Motor Mount: 55-77.3ft-lbf

Fuel Pump Housing Bolts: 13-16ft-lbf

Valve Cover: 71-92in-lbf


Color Index:

White: general

Red: Warnings and Notes that should be taken into consideration

Yellow: My personal notes and thoughts that you should know

Orange: Start of a new section, or moving around the car

Green: Disclosure; WHEN YOU SEE THIS "DISCLOSURE" KEEP THE FOLLOWING NOTE IN MIND: I am personally not responsible for any damage or injuries to anyone or anything, I am only an enthusiast who is sharing the knowledge I have gained and acquired from those smarter than I when I started working on my car. NATOR RULES ALL!!!

NOTE: THIS BOLT DOES NOT NEED TO BE REMOVED, IF IT IS AND IS NOT TIGHTENED ALL THE WAY BACK DOWN THE CAR WILL NOT START!!!

I only removed for reference and state I cannot stress this enough!!! The slightest play in the bolt will allow the car to have problems as this is your primary coil pack ground.







KEEP IN MIND: SOME OF THESE PICTURES WHERE TAKEN LATE OR EARLY SO IF SOMETHING DOESNT MATCH WHAT YOU HAVE IN THE PHOTOS DONT SWEAT IT!

REQUIRED TOOLS:

-Top Dead Center Pin SST (TDCP)
-Camshaft Alignment Plate SST (CAP)

These can be purchased here:
Taylor's Custom Turbo Crankshaft Timing Peg & Camshaft Alignment Tool | Taylor's Sport-N-Import Service Co.


NOTE: DO NOT TORQUE ANYTHING WITH THE CAP (CAM ALIGNMENT PLATE) OR TDCP (TOP DEAD CENTER PIN) IN PLACE YOU WILL DAMAGE THEM!!!

-Crank Pulley SST (M6x1) used to hold holds crank pulley in place while breaking crank bolt and torque.
-Sockets: deep well and normal: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 21mm, 24mm, Torx T8 inverted
-Ratchets: 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" drives
-Box wrenches: same sizes as above
-Flat Head screw driver 1/4" wide
-Breaker bars, both 3/8" and 1/2"
-Inch-lbs and ft-lbs torque wrenches (ranges from 8" lbs and over 100'lb)
-Pry bars of various sizes
-Needle nose pliers
-FSM Access
-2 Jack stands
-A Jack
-Block of wood to place on Jack to prevent damage to oil pan
-Black Permanent Marker
-Plastic Scrapers for removal of old sealant
-2-3 cans of brake cleaner (MUST HAVE FOR ANY JOB YOU DO)
-ZIP TIES YAAAYYY!!!
-RAGS... LOTS OF THEM!!!
-Last but not least, a second or third set of hands is always nice... but who works on their cars by themselves???


REQUIRED PARTS:

-New VVT Actuator
-Timing Chain Tentioner
-Intake Cam Bolt (not required as it is not a TTY bolt)



-Intake Cam Friction washer
-Crankshaft Bolt (This is Torque to Yield so it can only be used once as per FSM)
-Two (2) Crank Bolt Friction washers
-Possibly new valve cover gasket pending on when you last changed yours
-Timing chain guide arms (in case there is a lot of wear on the old ones, Best to have new ones on hand, they can be sold or returned if not needed)
-Gray RTV (or any form of Gasket Maker)
-Front seal (this all depends on how many miles are on your car and if you want to do this or not.)
-Fresh oil and filter

BE SURE TO STUDY THE FSM MECHANICAL SECTION PRIOR TO DOING THIS!


Before we get started I want to suggest taking off the hood. I never used to remove it before with small stuff. But something this in depth, I HIGHLY recommend removing the hood for ease of work about to be done.

DISCLOSURE

So let’s get started!

Jack up the car, support on jack stands.

DRAIN OIL!!!!

Then:

Remove all the following:
Passenger wheel and any fender liners that are blocking the Crank pulley.
Skid Plate (but who has one of those?)
TMIC or FMIC Piping covering the VC
Coil packs and spark Plugs (removing plugs will make the next step easier, as there will not be any pressure building up in the cylinders when you spin the crank)

From there, I have always broken the crank bolt free as the motor is probably still warm. (Go ahead and remove your serpentine belt since you’re in the area).

Locate your tensioner pulley (14mm wrench)then pull clock wise to break tension, The pulley located is the lower left pulley in photo,(also save this picture for belt routing when reinstalling later)



Remove stock TDC bolt (10mm) from block and replace with TDCP found here:



Next, grab a 1/2" Ratchet with a 21mm Socket and slowly spin the crank till the crank stops on the TDCP. Your Crank Pulley Will line up with a threaded hole on the Timing Cover (this is where you will place the M6x1 bolt (10mm)) Notice bolt on pulley in picture below:



Now grab your marker. On the Crank Pulley there is a spot that should now be at the top where there is a tooth missing. You should be able to count 20 teeth towards the crankshaft position sensor (CKPS) or counter clockwise. (I believe its 20 teeth someone correct me if I’m wrong) make sure that 20th tooth is lined up with the center mark on your CKPS. Then use your handy dandy marker, and mark that tooth on the face of the crank pulley (this will help with aligning everything up later when re-timing the motor)



To remove the Crank Bolt, do this by using a 500+ft lb capable impact gun with 21mm socket or use the Crank Pulley Bolt (M6x1) or have someone sit in the car hold the brake and put the car in 6th gear (this will be needed in some cases later on so remember that. Once the bolt is broken free, remove crank bolt, pull the crank pulley off, then lightly hand thread the crank bolt back on till it stops (DO NOT TIGHTEN!you should be able to spin it back off by hand, this is so you can turn the crank back to TDC if it somehow spins out, Just a precaution I tend to take). Go ahead and grab your marker again and draw circles around the bolts holding the CKPS in place, then remove your CKPS (2 8mm bolts) and set that aside!

MOVING ON!


Now off to the driver side of the car:
DISCLOSURE

Remove:
Battery/box and full intake (should only need 10mm)
Disconnect the connectors on top of the Fuel Pump housing that are attached to the Brass bracket. There are two bolts (8mm), one on top closest to the battery, and one on the side itself. This is where I tell you, DO NOT REMOVE THAT GROUND BOLT IT IS NOT REQUIRED!

The top bolt is the one I am not pointing at lol (didn’t take a picture of the one needed to remove) it’s the one next to it:



This is the bolt on the side:



Once that is removed, then remove that wire harness and set aside, there should be two large connectors on the bracket one gray and one black, and the connector for the fuel pump, a connector for the Camshaft Position Sensor, then two more connectors at the other end, one to the power steering pump (one individual wire) and then a large Gray connector that clips onto the Intake Manifold, along with the 4 connectors for the Coil packs and the one for the boost reservoir on top of the manifold. Then she will come right out.

NOW TO THE FUEL PUMP AND FUEL PUMP HOUSING:
DISCLOSURE



UPDATED NOTE:


The pump does not need to be removed from the housing, from what has been stated here, it is more optional if anything:



Removing the fuel pump. You will need the T8 Inverted Torx, and a 17mm open ended wrench. There are three (3) bolts on the fuel pump. then the main fuel feed to the fuel rail is on the bottom of the pump (17mm), then the two on top, one with a yellow clip (to the fuel rail) and one with a blue clip (primary feed from gas tank) those can be removed with a flat head. The wiring harness you removed off the VC and Manifold earlier... guess what... got to take the other end of that off the CDFP area now.
There is the two that came off the other harness, then one connector for the VTCS. Then you have two more, one for the EGR and one for the Stock Boost controller. Push it to the fire wall and tuck it under something.

Now that the Harness is out of the way, tuck some rags up under the fuel pump so the fuel doesn’t get all over the place (plus you can huff the rag later we all love the smell of fuel in the morning). Also, remove the silver bracket (two, 2, 10mm bolts) and place that out of the way.

Take your flathead screw driver and place it in between the yellow clip on the forward fuel line, then lightly pry it open. Then pull line up and push/tuck aside out of the way:




Now for the other line (with the blue clip on it) its literally find the tab and twist it counter clock wise till it locks open, and pull line up.

Now grab one of your zip ties and wrap it around the main fuel feed to the fuel rail like this:



Grab your 17mm open ended wrench and break the nut free and un-thread it all the way down. Don’t worry about it falling, that’s what your zip tie was for:



^^^-- that’s winning right there

Now grab your 1/4" ratchet and T8 Torx and let’s take that fuel pump off. Make sure to remove all three bolts equally while wiggling the pump out of the housing. Remove the cam follower and DO NOT TOUCH THE TOP OF IT THAT FOLLOWS THE CAM! Place it in a clean area that will not be messed with, preferably located with the fuel pump.

Lets removed the Fuel Pump Housing now, there are four (4) 10mm bolts holding it in place. Be sure to place some rags under the housing as there is oil in it:

This one:



These two:



And one more located on the back side of the three I have indicated (don’t know where the picture went )

Go ahead and grab an 8mm socket and pull your VC off and set aside for a cleaning later.

Grab your CAP and that 21mm wrench, place the wrench on the "NUT" looking part of the intake cam. Place the CAP into the grooves of the cams on the driver side of the car, if the CAP doesn’t slide in right away, the push or pull the cam in whatever direction needed to get the CAP in place.




BACK TO THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE CAR!
DISCLOSURE


Grab your jack and block of wood, wrap the wood in a few rags and place the jack directly under the oil pan where the big hole is. And Jack up till it starts to hold the wood in place like this:



Grab a 10mm socket and a flat head and remove the power steering and coolant reservoirs. Push the coolant tank towards the emblem on the bumper, it should sit in there just nice, then pull the power steering tank in the same direction and zip tie it down.

Now, grab your 1/2" breaker bar with an extension and a 17mm socket. Break the two lower bolts of the passenger side motor mount. Then grab a 10mm and remove the grounding strap (the side bolted to the chassis not the PMM). Jack the motor up just enough to take the weight of the motor off the chassis. Loosen up the lower bolts some more till the bottom of the bolt head is not touching the PMM. Jack up the motor some more till the PMM is completely off the chassis. Removed lower bolts, then removed top two bolts. Pull out PMM and set aside with hardware.

Grab a 12mm socket, and remove the Power steering pump (leaving the lines hooked up) there are two (2) 12mm bolts on top and one on the bottom. Push it up towards the top of the strut tower and find a way to zip tie in place.

Now you’re going to need to remove your Water Pump Pulley (three 10mm bolts) Located directly below the power steering pump. So grab two (2) 10mm wrenches, place them on two bolts that are close together, and pull them together, one of them will break free. Then move around to the next bolt and do the same thing, do this till all of them are off.

Then Remove your Idler Pulley, located just below and to the right of the Alternator (located on the far top left) use a 10mm socket. Remove and set aside.

You should have enough room to work with now (yes that rag on top of the cam is hiding something):



Now, look at your Lobes... these things here on your cams:



(the egg shaped parts that press onto the tappets/buckets/spring caps) on the cam directly above cylinder 1 (cylinder on the passenger side) do they look like they are facing each other at a 45* angle, while the sides facing each other are parallel to one another as well as perpendicular to the head like this:



Oh that rag... I wouldn’t worry about that rag....

Moving on now.

From here we are going to remove the Timing Cover (TC).

There are three Primary bolts on the TC that are a 13mm they are all located on the bulk near the PMM mounting point, these will be the last to be removed and the first to go on during reinstallation. (Keep this is mind)

These Two that I am pointing at DO NOT need to be removed:



There are twenty four (24) bolts total that hold the timing cover on, this includes 3 13mm (located at the PMM mounting point) and the 10mm bolt for the idler pulley. there is also one (1) (located on the far bottom right of the picture directly above) that is a 13mm I believe (don’t let the ripple in the TC fool you, there is no pulley that goes there!) and the other 19 bolts are all 8mm, some are longer than others so keep them in order of where they came from.

Once all the 21 bolts are removed you may then remove the 3 13mm bolts from the PMM area. Go ahead and remove your crank bolt (that is finger threaded on remember)

Now grab your flat head screw driver and place it in between the TC and the intake cam bolt and pry while holding the top of the TC and pull it up from the top (You probably could go through the bottom but it’s just easier to go through the top)






MOVING ON TO CHAIN, TENSIONER, ARMS AND VVT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION

Now we have the TC Removed it’s time to move on to the more… “INDEPTH” part of this. (It really isn’t that hard though) We are going to remove the chain tentioner located here with two (2) 10mm bolts:



This can be done with ease. First loosen both 10mm bolts on the tensioner. Once this is done, and then completely remove the bottom bolt slowly, allowing the tensioner to spin clockwise on the top bolt. Do this slowly as this is spring loaded. Once the tension is completely removed then remove the top bolt and pull the tensioner out. You can place a small tack/paperclip or nail in the locking hole to keep the plunger in place like this (this can also be done while the tensioner is in the car to make for easier removal)



Now you are going to remove the chain tension arm. It has one mounting point on the head and is free to move forward and back, it will simply slide off (be sure to pull the chain towards the front of the car to prevent it from getting in the way of removal of the chain tension arm and the guide arm) So remove and inspect the arm:



Both my arms are brand new so there is minimal to no wear on them. If they are chunked I would replace them, but if they have small grooves in them that don’t look deep they should be fine to keep in place. If replacement is needed replace the right one now two (2)8mm bolts hold off on the tension arm. That will come later.



On the crank you have the two friction washers and the timing chain gear (keep in mind this order in which they are removed washer/gear/washer)



NOTE: when installing the new washers. DO NOT TOUCH THE FACE OF THEM!!! Hold them like this while handling them.

Go ahead and replace the one closest to the block now, and set the gear aside for the moment.



Grab your marker, and mark on the VVT and Cam cap where the VVT sits in relation to the cam like this:





This will allow you to place the new VVT in the proper position for ease of install. Be sure to transfer the markings on the old VVT onto the new VVT. DO THIS NOW!
DISCLOSURE
Now we can remove the chain and grab a ratchet with a 14mm socket and a 24mm wrench to hold the cam in place: This picture is only for reference of where the wrench should go on the cam as I did not take pictures of the removal and installation of the actually VVT itself:




DISCLOSURE
NOTE: BE SURE TO REMOVE THE CAM ALIGNMENT TOOL WHEN BREAKING AND TORQUEING THE BOLT!!!!
If you do not, you will damage the timing tool and we don’t want that now do we… Moving on:
Now again, I do not have pictures of the actual removal and installation of the VVT actuator. You will place the 24mm wrench on the cam to hold in place (after removing the alignment tool of course! Be sure to keep the cam in the position it is in otherwise you may nick a valve.) Then grab the ratchet and break the VVT bolt free. Remove and replace with new. Align up your markings and Torque to50.9-55.3 ft-lb. Reinstall your Cam alignment tool now.
Grab your crank Gear for the chain and set into the bottom of the chain like this and slide the gear onto the crank (keeping it taught so the chain doesn’t separate from the gear) like this:





With tension on the bottom crank gear, put the chain onto the VVT first, then onto the exhaust gear leaving some slack in the middle of the two gears. While using your 24mm wrench you will push the intake cam towards the exhaust cam just enough to pull the chain over the exhaust cam a tooth or two (pending on how loose you left the chain)like this:
First picture is of the loose chain, second and third is tight chain






Now we can reinstall your chain tension arm (the one on the exhaust side as the other should still be in place)



For the installation of the new tensioner, it will be the opposite of removal. (Keep in mind, the new tensioner has a locking pin in place to keep the plunger compressed, DO NOT REMOVE THIS YET) So install the top bolt first:



Spin the tensioner in place and align up your bottom bolt hole and tighten both. Then press the tension arm into the tensioner and slowly release the locking pin to free the plunger and lever.



PUTTING IT ALL BACK TOGETHER
DISCLOSURE

From here it’s all backwards for re- installation. First be sure to apply plenty of sealant to your TC along these areas anywhere else is unnecessary:



Install and align up your VC and install these three bolts first, make them snug but be sure the TC can still move slightly:



Install the rest of the bolts and tighten all in accordance with the FSM.

NOTE: BE SURE THE TOP MACHINED SURFACE OF THE VC IS LEVEL WITH THE TOP MACHINED SURFACE OF THE HEAD; IF THIS IS NOT LEVEL/FLUSH WITH ONE ANOTHER YOU WILL HAVE A LEAKY VALVE COVER!

TIMING THE MOTOR
DISCLOSURE

Once you get the VC in and on and tightened up, slide on your second friction washer onto the crank. Now oil up the inside of the crank pulley for ease of installation, slide the pulley onto the crank and install your M6x1.0 bolt into the hole on the pulley. Once this is done install the crank bolt until snug, have someone get in the car, press the brake all the way to the floor and hold, then place the car in 6th gear to prevent the crank from spinning. You will then torque the crank bolt in two steps
First torque to 70.9-76.7 ft-lbthen let the bolt sit and cool for a few moments
Second is the 90* turn so.
Now you will grab your marker and draw a line on the bolt and the pulley to show where you’re starting point is (this is probably the hardest part of this entire install)



Now whilst holding the brake and the car in 6th gearyou will spin the bolt with a breaker bar as far as you can before it feels like it’s going to stop. Then let it sit and cool down for a moment the bolt should be around 45* from the marking on the pulley. After it has been a few moments repeat again until you have the bolt turned a full 90* from the original mark you made.



From here, you just go backwards. Re-install your crank sensor, remove your pulley bolt, remove TDCP, remove Cam alignment tool. The hard part is now over so put the car back together.
NOTE: be sure to add oil over the top of the chain and cams before putting the VC back on. Be sure to prime your fuel pump, and DO NOT FORGET THIS:



Take your time do your research and be sure you have EVERYTHING YOU NEED!!!
IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, PLEASE, ASK AWAY!!!

If you have noticed anything missing or something that should be edited please post away.
Roku

Thanks Ryan 2.0t03speed; for the help and the pictures as always!!!

[Shredhead86]

Originally Posted by SeeMeGovan I fixed the pics from OP. TAKE YOUR TIME AND READ THE ENTIRE THREAD!!!! Do it the right way and do it once, read over this a few times and make sure you know exactly what needs to happen in the order it needs to happen. Be sure to have this and the FSM handy for quick reference on torque specs (though I have listed a few, you still need to know some others as well as the order in which things should be tightened) and anything else I may or may not have inputed into this How-To. EDIT, Link added 4/8/14: Huge thanks to @SeeMeGovan; for his input here open this link in a new tab to use as a reference as well. He did one hell of a write up to add to this one. EDIT, added 8/26, Torque specs, thanks @frothy; Torque Specs: VVT Actuator and Exhaust Sprocket bolts: 51-55ft-lbf Timing Cover: Bolts 1-18: 71-101in-lbf Bolts 19-22: 30-40ft-lbf Crankshaft: 1st step: 70.9-76.7ft-lbf 2nd step: 87-93 degrees Lower Blind Plug: 14-16ft-lbf Water Pump Pulley Bolts: 13-16ft-lbf Idler Pulley Bolt: 15-22ft-lbf Passenger Side Motor Mount: 55-77.3ft-lbf Fuel Pump Housing Bolts: 13-16ft-lbf Valve Cover: 71-92in-lbf Color Index: White: general Red: Warnings and Notes that should be taken into consideration Yellow: My personal notes and thoughts that you should know Orange: Start of a new section, or moving around the car Green: Disclosure; WHEN YOU SEE THIS "DISCLOSURE" KEEP THE FOLLOWING NOTE IN MIND: I am personally not responsible for any damage or injuries to anyone or anything, I am only an enthusiast who is sharing the knowledge I have gained and acquired from those smarter than I when I started working on my car. NATOR RULES ALL!!! NOTE: THIS BOLT DOES NOT NEED TO BE REMOVED, IF IT IS AND IS NOT TIGHTENED ALL THE WAY BACK DOWN THE CAR WILL NOT START!!! I only removed for reference and state I cannot stress this enough!!! The slightest play in the bolt will allow the car to have problems as this is your primary coil pack ground. KEEP IN MIND: SOME OF THESE PICTURES WHERE TAKEN LATE OR EARLY SO IF SOMETHING DOESNT MATCH WHAT YOU HAVE IN THE PHOTOS DONT SWEAT IT! REQUIRED TOOLS: -Top Dead Center Pin SST (TDCP) -Camshaft Alignment Plate SST (CAP) These can be purchased here: Taylor's Custom Turbo Crankshaft Timing Peg & Camshaft Alignment Tool | Taylor's Sport-N-Import Service Co. NOTE: DO NOT TORQUE ANYTHING WITH THE CAP (CAM ALIGNMENT PLATE) OR TDCP (TOP DEAD CENTER PIN) IN PLACE YOU WILL DAMAGE THEM!!! -Crank Pulley SST (M6x1) used to hold holds crank pulley in place while breaking crank bolt and torque. -Sockets: deep well and normal: 8mm, 10mm, 12mm, 13mm, 14mm, 17mm, 21mm, 24mm, Torx T8 inverted -Ratchets: 1/4" 3/8" and 1/2" drives -Box wrenches: same sizes as above -Flat Head screw driver 1/4" wide -Breaker bars, both 3/8" and 1/2" -Inch-lbs and ft-lbs torque wrenches (ranges from 8" lbs and over 100'lb) -Pry bars of various sizes -Needle nose pliers -FSM Access -2 Jack stands -A Jack -Block of wood to place on Jack to prevent damage to oil pan -Black Permanent Marker -Plastic Scrapers for removal of old sealant -2-3 cans of brake cleaner (MUST HAVE FOR ANY JOB YOU DO) -ZIP TIES YAAAYYY!!! -RAGS... LOTS OF THEM!!! -Last but not least, a second or third set of hands is always nice... but who works on their cars by themselves??? REQUIRED PARTS: -New VVT Actuator -Timing Chain Tentioner -Intake Cam Bolt (not required as it is not a TTY bolt) -Intake Cam Friction washer -Crankshaft Bolt (This is Torque to Yield so it can only be used once as per FSM) -Two (2) Crank Bolt Friction washers -Possibly new valve cover gasket pending on when you last changed yours -Timing chain guide arms (in case there is a lot of wear on the old ones, Best to have new ones on hand, they can be sold or returned if not needed) -Gray RTV (or any form of Gasket Maker) -Front seal (this all depends on how many miles are on your car and if you want to do this or not.) -Fresh oil and filter BE SURE TO STUDY THE FSM MECHANICAL SECTION PRIOR TO DOING THIS! Before we get started I want to suggest taking off the hood. I never used to remove it before with small stuff. But something this in depth, I HIGHLY recommend removing the hood for ease of work about to be done. DISCLOSURE So let’s get started! Jack up the car, support on jack stands. DRAIN OIL!!!! Then: Remove all the following: Passenger wheel and any fender liners that are blocking the Crank pulley. Skid Plate (but who has one of those?) TMIC or FMIC Piping covering the VC Coil packs and spark Plugs (removing plugs will make the next step easier, as there will not be any pressure building up in the cylinders when you spin the crank) From there, I have always broken the crank bolt free as the motor is probably still warm. (Go ahead and remove your serpentine belt since you’re in the area). Locate your tensioner pulley (14mm wrench)then pull clock wise to break tension, The pulley located is the lower left pulley in photo,(also save this picture for belt routing when reinstalling later) Remove stock TDC bolt (10mm) from block and replace with TDCP found here: Next, grab a 1/2" Ratchet with a 21mm Socket and slowly spin the crank till the crank stops on the TDCP. Your Crank Pulley Will line up with a threaded hole on the Timing Cover (this is where you will place the M6x1 bolt (10mm)) Notice bolt on pulley in picture below: Now grab your marker. On the Crank Pulley there is a spot that should now be at the top where there is a tooth missing. You should be able to count 20 teeth towards the crankshaft position sensor (CKPS) or counter clockwise. (I believe its 20 teeth someone correct me if I’m wrong) make sure that 20th tooth is lined up with the center mark on your CKPS. Then use your handy dandy marker, and mark that tooth on the face of the crank pulley (this will help with aligning everything up later when re-timing the motor) To remove the Crank Bolt, do this by using a 500+ft lb capable impact gun with 21mm socket or use the Crank Pulley Bolt (M6x1) or have someone sit in the car hold the brake and put the car in 6th gear (this will be needed in some cases later on so remember that. Once the bolt is broken free, remove crank bolt, pull the crank pulley off, then lightly hand thread the crank bolt back on till it stops (DO NOT TIGHTEN!you should be able to spin it back off by hand, this is so you can turn the crank back to TDC if it somehow spins out, Just a precaution I tend to take). Go ahead and grab your marker again and draw circles around the bolts holding the CKPS in place, then remove your CKPS (2 8mm bolts) and set that aside! MOVING ON! Now off to the driver side of the car: DISCLOSURE Remove: Battery/box and full intake (should only need 10mm) Disconnect the connectors on top of the Fuel Pump housing that are attached to the Brass bracket. There are two bolts (8mm), one on top closest to the battery, and one on the side itself. This is where I tell you, DO NOT REMOVE THAT GROUND BOLT IT IS NOT REQUIRED! The top bolt is the one I am not pointing at lol (didn’t take a picture of the one needed to remove) it’s the one next to it: This is the bolt on the side: Once that is removed, then remove that wire harness and set aside, there should be two large connectors on the bracket one gray and one black, and the connector for the fuel pump, a connector for the Camshaft Position Sensor, then two more connectors at the other end, one to the power steering pump (one individual wire) and then a large Gray connector that clips onto the Intake Manifold, along with the 4 connectors for the Coil packs and the one for the boost reservoir on top of the manifold. Then she will come right out. NOW TO THE FUEL PUMP AND FUEL PUMP HOUSING: DISCLOSURE UPDATED NOTE: The pump does not need to be removed from the housing, from what has been stated here, it is more optional if anything: Removing the fuel pump. You will need the T8 Inverted Torx, and a 17mm open ended wrench. There are three (3) bolts on the fuel pump. then the main fuel feed to the fuel rail is on the bottom of the pump (17mm), then the two on top, one with a yellow clip (to the fuel rail) and one with a blue clip (primary feed from gas tank) those can be removed with a flat head. The wiring harness you removed off the VC and Manifold earlier... guess what... got to take the other end of that off the CDFP area now. There is the two that came off the other harness, then one connector for the VTCS. Then you have two more, one for the EGR and one for the Stock Boost controller. Push it to the fire wall and tuck it under something. Now that the Harness is out of the way, tuck some rags up under the fuel pump so the fuel doesn’t get all over the place (plus you can huff the rag later we all love the smell of fuel in the morning). Also, remove the silver bracket (two, 2, 10mm bolts) and place that out of the way. Take your flathead screw driver and place it in between the yellow clip on the forward fuel line, then lightly pry it open. Then pull line up and push/tuck aside out of the way: Now for the other line (with the blue clip on it) its literally find the tab and twist it counter clock wise till it locks open, and pull line up. Now grab one of your zip ties and wrap it around the main fuel feed to the fuel rail like this: Grab your 17mm open ended wrench and break the nut free and un-thread it all the way down. Don’t worry about it falling, that’s what your zip tie was for: ^^^-- that’s winning right there Now grab your 1/4" ratchet and T8 Torx and let’s take that fuel pump off. Make sure to remove all three bolts equally while wiggling the pump out of the housing. Remove the cam follower and DO NOT TOUCH THE TOP OF IT THAT FOLLOWS THE CAM! Place it in a clean area that will not be messed with, preferably located with the fuel pump. Lets removed the Fuel Pump Housing now, there are four (4) 10mm bolts holding it in place. Be sure to place some rags under the housing as there is oil in it: This one: These two: And one more located on the back side of the three I have indicated (don’t know where the picture went ) Go ahead and grab an 8mm socket and pull your VC off and set aside for a cleaning later. Grab your CAP and that 21mm wrench, place the wrench on the "NUT" looking part of the intake cam. Place the CAP into the grooves of the cams on the driver side of the car, if the CAP doesn’t slide in right away, the push or pull the cam in whatever direction needed to get the CAP in place. BACK TO THE PASSENGER SIDE OF THE CAR! DISCLOSURE Grab your jack and block of wood, wrap the wood in a few rags and place the jack directly under the oil pan where the big hole is. And Jack up till it starts to hold the wood in place like this: Grab a 10mm socket and a flat head and remove the power steering and coolant reservoirs. Push the coolant tank towards the emblem on the bumper, it should sit in there just nice, then pull the power steering tank in the same direction and zip tie it down. Now, grab your 1/2" breaker bar with an extension and a 17mm socket. Break the two lower bolts of the passenger side motor mount. Then grab a 10mm and remove the grounding strap (the side bolted to the chassis not the PMM). Jack the motor up just enough to take the weight of the motor off the chassis. Loosen up the lower bolts some more till the bottom of the bolt head is not touching the PMM. Jack up the motor some more till the PMM is completely off the chassis. Removed lower bolts, then removed top two bolts. Pull out PMM and set aside with hardware. Grab a 12mm socket, and remove the Power steering pump (leaving the lines hooked up) there are two (2) 12mm bolts on top and one on the bottom. Push it up towards the top of the strut tower and find a way to zip tie in place. Now you’re going to need to remove your Water Pump Pulley (three 10mm bolts) Located directly below the power steering pump. So grab two (2) 10mm wrenches, place them on two bolts that are close together, and pull them together, one of them will break free. Then move around to the next bolt and do the same thing, do this till all of them are off. Then Remove your Idler Pulley, located just below and to the right of the Alternator (located on the far top left) use a 10mm socket. Remove and set aside. You should have enough room to work with now (yes that rag on top of the cam is hiding something): Now, look at your Lobes... these things here on your cams: (the egg shaped parts that press onto the tappets/buckets/spring caps) on the cam directly above cylinder 1 (cylinder on the passenger side) do they look like they are facing each other at a 45* angle, while the sides facing each other are parallel to one another as well as perpendicular to the head like this: Oh that rag... I wouldn’t worry about that rag.... Moving on now. From here we are going to remove the Timing Cover (TC). There are three Primary bolts on the TC that are a 13mm they are all located on the bulk near the PMM mounting point, these will be the last to be removed and the first to go on during reinstallation. (Keep this is mind) These Two that I am pointing at DO NOT need to be removed: There are twenty four (24) bolts total that hold the timing cover on, this includes 3 13mm (located at the PMM mounting point) and the 10mm bolt for the idler pulley. there is also one (1) (located on the far bottom right of the picture directly above) that is a 13mm I believe (don’t let the ripple in the TC fool you, there is no pulley that goes there!) and the other 19 bolts are all 8mm, some are longer than others so keep them in order of where they came from. Once all the 21 bolts are removed you may then remove the 3 13mm bolts from the PMM area. Go ahead and remove your crank bolt (that is finger threaded on remember) Now grab your flat head screw driver and place it in between the TC and the intake cam bolt and pry while holding the top of the TC and pull it up from the top (You probably could go through the bottom but it’s just easier to go through the top) MOVING ON TO CHAIN, TENSIONER, ARMS AND VVT REMOVAL AND INSTALLATION Now we have the TC Removed it’s time to move on to the more… “INDEPTH” part of this. (It really isn’t that hard though) We are going to remove the chain tentioner located here with two (2) 10mm bolts: This can be done with ease. First loosen both 10mm bolts on the tensioner. Once this is done, and then completely remove the bottom bolt slowly, allowing the tensioner to spin clockwise on the top bolt. Do this slowly as this is spring loaded. Once the tension is completely removed then remove the top bolt and pull the tensioner out. You can place a small tack/paperclip or nail in the locking hole to keep the plunger in place like this (this can also be done while the tensioner is in the car to make for easier removal) Now you are going to remove the chain tension arm. It has one mounting point on the head and is free to move forward and back, it will simply slide off (be sure to pull the chain towards the front of the car to prevent it from getting in the way of removal of the chain tension arm and the guide arm) So remove and inspect the arm: Both my arms are brand new so there is minimal to no wear on them. If they are chunked I would replace them, but if they have small grooves in them that don’t look deep they should be fine to keep in place. If replacement is needed replace the right one now two (2)8mm bolts hold off on the tension arm. That will come later. On the crank you have the two friction washers and the timing chain gear (keep in mind this order in which they are removed washer/gear/washer) NOTE: when installing the new washers. DO NOT TOUCH THE FACE OF THEM!!! Hold them like this while handling them. Go ahead and replace the one closest to the block now, and set the gear aside for the moment. Grab your marker, and mark on the VVT and Cam cap where the VVT sits in relation to the cam like this: This will allow you to place the new VVT in the proper position for ease of install. Be sure to transfer the markings on the old VVT onto the new VVT. DO THIS NOW! DISCLOSURE Now we can remove the chain and grab a ratchet with a 14mm socket and a 24mm wrench to hold the cam in place: This picture is only for reference of where the wrench should go on the cam as I did not take pictures of the removal and installation of the actually VVT itself: DISCLOSURE NOTE: BE SURE TO REMOVE THE CAM ALIGNMENT TOOL WHEN BREAKING AND TORQUEING THE BOLT!!!! If you do not, you will damage the timing tool and we don’t want that now do we… Moving on: Now again, I do not have pictures of the actual removal and installation of the VVT actuator. You will place the 24mm wrench on the cam to hold in place (after removing the alignment tool of course! Be sure to keep the cam in the position it is in otherwise you may nick a valve.) Then grab the ratchet and break the VVT bolt free. Remove and replace with new. Align up your markings and Torque to50.9-55.3 ft-lb. Reinstall your Cam alignment tool now. Grab your crank Gear for the chain and set into the bottom of the chain like this and slide the gear onto the crank (keeping it taught so the chain doesn’t separate from the gear) like this: With tension on the bottom crank gear, put the chain onto the VVT first, then onto the exhaust gear leaving some slack in the middle of the two gears. While using your 24mm wrench you will push the intake cam towards the exhaust cam just enough to pull the chain over the exhaust cam a tooth or two (pending on how loose you left the chain)like this: First picture is of the loose chain, second and third is tight chain Now we can reinstall your chain tension arm (the one on the exhaust side as the other should still be in place) For the installation of the new tensioner, it will be the opposite of removal. (Keep in mind, the new tensioner has a locking pin in place to keep the plunger compressed, DO NOT REMOVE THIS YET) So install the top bolt first: Spin the tensioner in place and align up your bottom bolt hole and tighten both. Then press the tension arm into the tensioner and slowly release the locking pin to free the plunger and lever. PUTTING IT ALL BACK TOGETHER DISCLOSURE From here it’s all backwards for re- installation. First be sure to apply plenty of sealant to your TC along these areas anywhere else is unnecessary: Install and align up your VC and install these three bolts first, make them snug but be sure the TC can still move slightly: Install the rest of the bolts and tighten all in accordance with the FSM. NOTE: BE SURE THE TOP MACHINED SURFACE OF THE VC IS LEVEL WITH THE TOP MACHINED SURFACE OF THE HEAD; IF THIS IS NOT LEVEL/FLUSH WITH ONE ANOTHER YOU WILL HAVE A LEAKY VALVE COVER! TIMING THE MOTOR DISCLOSURE Once you get the VC in and on and tightened up, slide on your second friction washer onto the crank. Now oil up the inside of the crank pulley for ease of installation, slide the pulley onto the crank and install your M6x1.0 bolt into the hole on the pulley. Once this is done install the crank bolt until snug, have someone get in the car, press the brake all the way to the floor and hold, then place the car in 6th gear to prevent the crank from spinning. You will then torque the crank bolt in two steps First torque to 70.9-76.7 ft-lbthen let the bolt sit and cool for a few moments Second is the 90* turn so. Now you will grab your marker and draw a line on the bolt and the pulley to show where you’re starting point is (this is probably the hardest part of this entire install) Now whilst holding the brake and the car in 6th gearyou will spin the bolt with a breaker bar as far as you can before it feels like it’s going to stop. Then let it sit and cool down for a moment the bolt should be around 45* from the marking on the pulley. After it has been a few moments repeat again until you have the bolt turned a full 90* from the original mark you made. From here, you just go backwards. Re-install your crank sensor, remove your pulley bolt, remove TDCP, remove Cam alignment tool. The hard part is now over so put the car back together. NOTE: be sure to add oil over the top of the chain and cams before putting the VC back on. Be sure to prime your fuel pump, and DO NOT FORGET THIS: Take your time do your research and be sure you have EVERYTHING YOU NEED!!! IF YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS, PLEASE, ASK AWAY!!! If you have noticed anything missing or something that should be edited please post away. Roku Thanks Ryan 2.0t03speed; for the help and the pictures as always!!!

Thanks for fixing the pics. And that is engine break in line on the cam lobes. Just so there’s no metal on metal when we start the engine up again. Thought that may be a good idea.

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by Shredhead86 Ok, so used the TDC pin to make sure my engine was in the right place, but when I did that the timing plate didn’t fit in the slots on the end of the cams. I’m not sure if that means my motor was out of time or what but I had to rotate the cams to get them to fit. Now I’m not sure if I have my actuator in the right position. I haven’t really tightened anything down yet for just that reason. Can anyone tell me if it’s right?

It's probably wrong. If you set it right before you unbolt everything you would have been OK. There is more than one spot that the pin will stop the crank, not just TDC.

The solution is to take the timing chain off and rotate your crank by hand until your #1 (or #4 ) piston is near TDC. Use a screwdriver through the spark plug hole. Tape it to prevent scratching if you prefer. Then when you know your crank is at TDC put the pin in and rotate the crank the last bit clockwise to butt against the pin.

You can put the old crank bolt back in the crank to do this. Use hand tools to crank it clockwise then an impact gun to unscrew it while leaving the crank still.

[Shredhead86]

Originally Posted by Ozynigma It's probably wrong. If you set it right before you unbolt everything you would have been OK. There is more than one spot that the pin will stop the crank, not just TDC. The solution is to take the timing chain off and rotate your crank by hand until your #1 (or #4 ) piston is near TDC. Use a screwdriver through the spark plug hole. Tape it to prevent scratching if you prefer. Then when you know your crank is at TDC put the pin in and rotate the crank the last bit clockwise to butt against the pin. You can put the old crank bolt back in the crank to do this. Use hand tools to crank it clockwise then an impact gun to unscrew it while leaving the crank still.

This is what the pistons looked like when I took the head off. (The only reason I’m doing this VVT job is because I had to replace the head gasket)

[Ozynigma]

Originally Posted by Shredhead86 This is what the pistons looked like when I took the head off. (The only reason I’m doing this VVT job is because I had to replace the head gasket)

Well that's not quite at TDC, but a little clockwise turn would butt the crank up against the pin.

Looking back on your first post on this, you need to get the crank and pin right first, then get the cams right with the timing plate, then put the chain on. The actuator doesn't have a particular alignment (if it's a new one, if reusing an old one there is no need to remove it or the cam sprockets.)

Maybe when you pulled the head it was close to TDC #4 which will mean turning the cams about 180 degrees to line up with TDC #1 and the timing plate.

(Also could you please edit your post where you quote and repeat all the pictures, it makes the thread hard to read.)