HOW-TO VVT

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by motherfnmonsta only thing you have to do is once you have the engine in time and everything tight just turn the engine slightly so that the cam lobes that is flat is almost flush with the bucket and it should slight right on.

Sweet! I will update the OP with this

[Rokusek]

OP UPDATED

[baardoon]

when ordering the parts, i need to order the timing chain guide and the timing chain lever correct? i havent really seen it specified as most people refer to both as the guides. thanks for the right up as well. should be a huge help here pretty soon!

[Rokusek]

Yes you are correct. They aren't always needed, so when you do buy them don't open them and keep the receipt so you can return them if needed. They don't usually wear out to much.

I replaced mine when I built my motor at 85k, it's better to have them and not need them than to not have them and need them.

[Bathor10]

Ok after almost a month of dealing with lost and damaged package with ups I finally got my timing tools. Everything went easy during the install. But now I'm having a problem. Under hard acceleration I'm getting a popping noise comming out the exhaust. I double and triple checked the timing before even cranking the engine. The chain I pulled out was almost 1/4 inch streached compared to the new replacement. Which would have caused a retard timing. Now that I have the new one installed it would advance it that much. So I figured my octaine wasn't enough. But after octaine boost and 93 fuel I'm still getting the same problem. I'm thinking about pulling it back apart and checking or maybe even retarding the timing. Just wondering if anyone has any imput on something I may be looking over before I do that job again.

[sidekick]

Originally Posted by Bathor10 Ok after almost a month of dealing with lost and damaged package with ups I finally got my timing tools. Everything went easy during the install. But now I'm having a problem. Under hard acceleration I'm getting a popping noise comming out the exhaust. I double and triple checked the timing before even cranking the engine. The chain I pulled out was almost 1/4 inch streached compared to the new replacement. Which would have caused a retard timing. Now that I have the new one installed it would advance it that much. So I figured my octaine wasn't enough. But after octaine boost and 93 fuel I'm still getting the same problem. I'm thinking about pulling it back apart and checking or maybe even retarding the timing. Just wondering if anyone has any imput on something I may be looking over before I do that job again.

It sounds like unburnt fuel is burning in your exhaust, which could be caused by improper exhaust valve timing. I know you checked it, but that seems like the most logical reason right off the bat. What modifications are you running? What does your tune look like in terms of AFR and ignition timing? Do you have any logs?

EDIT: Is it possible your crank position sensor was installed improperly and now your ignition timing is retarded?

[Bathor10]

As of right now a cat back and a cold air. Factory tune.

Pretty sure it's gotta be the crank off if anything. I did some old school stuff when setting it up counting the chain lengths to make sure it was exactly the same between the intake and exhaust cam. But being the crank is not keyed I couldn't count those. But if I go back into it to reset it atleast I won't have to pull off the front cover. So will save me a bit of time.

[thebestdj07]

im having the same issue as /\.. did everything per the writeup. chain was tight after 3 turns by hand. replaced the ocv. 93octane. when i just pulled the cover off to replace the ocv the chain had a little slack in it but not alot. meaning it was not as tight as when i first installed it.

any ideas?

[Bathor10]

Well going to tear back into it in the morning. Going to start with putting the crank pin in place and check to see if the crank sensor is correct and to see if the 8mm bolt will go into the crank pulley. Maybe something turned when I impacted it back together. If those look correct going to pull the vc and fuel pump and reset that. Start with easy and move on up.

[guitarzan134]

Originally Posted by Bathor10 Well going to tear back into it in the morning. Going to start with putting the crank pin in place and check to see if the crank sensor is correct and to see if the 8mm bolt will go into the crank pulley. Maybe something turned when I impacted it back together. If those look correct going to pull the vc and fuel pump and reset that. Start with easy and move on up.

There is a specific tooth on the crank pulley that the CPS has to be aligned with. It is very obvious which one, as there is a small amount of white paint on the correct tooth. The paint was almost worm off mine, but after looking at the rest of the pulley teeth, it was a no-brainer.

When we replaced my timing assembly, my CPS was slightly off. We loosened the intake cam bolt to allow the chain to rotate (we only needed a couple of teeth), and then adjusted the crank pulley and CPS. We rechecked the timing with the tools, then tightened the cam bolt (not tty, as mentioned earlier). Car has been kicking ass for ~15k, since.

Good luck!

[Bathor10]

Ok reset the timing again. Now it pops even more... I also got to thinking. If the camshafts are properly alligned from counting the chain links and marking the teeth my crank pulley may in theory be off 1 or 2 degree and as long as the cps is set accordingly then it shouldn't really matter. Unless there is also a crank sensor located on the flywheel. How exact does the cps need to be centered on the white crank tooth? Cause I got it pretty close by eye. Don't really know what I'm going to do now.

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by Bathor10 Ok reset the timing again. Now it pops even more... I also got to thinking. If the camshafts are properly alligned from counting the chain links and marking the teeth my crank pulley may in theory be off 1 or 2 degree and as long as the cps is set accordingly then it shouldn't really matter. Unless there is also a crank sensor located on the flywheel. How exact does the cps need to be centered on the white crank tooth? Cause I got it pretty close by eye. Don't really know what I'm going to do now.

When you say your counting chain links and marking teeth, are you not using the timing tools? Stop counting stuff up top, use the tools and make sure the lobes over cylinder 1 are matched up with one another at a 45* angle.

If you have checked it a second time i would go back in and reset both the cam gears along with the crank. at this point i dont see much else you can do to try and fix this issue. being you have checked it already and it got worse.

The CPS needs to be dead center on the marked tooth on the crank pulley. There is only the crank position sensor on the bottom of the block and the cam alignment sensor that is on the vavlve cover next to the fuel pump housing.

[thebestdj07]

Originally Posted by Bathor10 Ok reset the timing again. Now it pops even more... I also got to thinking. If the camshafts are properly alligned from counting the chain links and marking the teeth my crank pulley may in theory be off 1 or 2 degree and as long as the cps is set accordingly then it shouldn't really matter. Unless there is also a crank sensor located on the flywheel. How exact does the cps need to be centered on the white crank tooth? Cause I got it pretty close by eye. Don't really know what I'm going to do now.

Heres how I ended up setting mine install the cam holding tool so lobes ae at 45 deg. Install crank stop. Mark and remove the crk sensor then the pulley.do everything to get the timing cover off. loosen both cam bolts making sure your holding the cam with a wrench so u dont bust the end where the holder is......... adjust so chain is tight replace fricton washers between gears n cwm. tighten to 60ft lbs. At this point the chain should be tight and the holder will be able to slide in and out with no force, throw the crank pulley back on and snug it. Back the crank holder out a bit, remove the cam holder and rotate crank a full 2 times (remove spark plugs it makes this part easier) upon coming up on the 2 full rotatons end install the crank stop and make sure the crank hits it. The cam holder should slide right back in... if so then replace washers on crank put timing cover back on then reinstall the crank pulley beforreeeeee u get it tight also install the pulley holding bolt into the cover. Now tighten to 75 ft lbs mark the bolt and go another 90 deg. Install the crk sensor to match 20th tooth counter clockwise from missing one. Get on eye level with it. Remove all tools rotate 2 more times and it should line all back up............, if u done all that and still get the light well check the pcm. Go to the cmp sensor and run the test marked in the service manual.

[Bathor10]

Ok guys I know it's been a while since I posted but I have officially found the problem. When I would have the popping noise I would immediately park the car and go back to work on it. I decided last week to just drive it and not drive it hard. About 4 days of that I finally got an engine light on. Checked it out was number 2 cylinder misfire. Replaced the coil and no longer that scary popping noise. I thought yay! Finally fixed it. Well few days ago got another light come on. Now it's only engine misfire no specific cylinder. I checked the ohms and voltage at each coil. Everything is up to spec and looking good. Nothing out of the ordinary with it cold or hot. I'm going to look at the other forums about that problem. Just wanted to give a final update on this page. Just many times of doing the timing system I feel like a pro at it now.  and to the last question yes I was using the timing tools. But on top of that I was counting the teeth cause that's how I always do them. Peace of mind thing for me.

[Teejhorse]

Originally Posted by Bathor10 Ok guys I know it's been a while since I posted but I have officially found the problem. When I would have the popping noise I would immediately park the car and go back to work on it. I decided last week to just drive it and not drive it hard. About 4 days of that I finally got an engine light on. Checked it out was number 2 cylinder misfire. Replaced the coil and no longer that scary popping noise. I thought yay! Finally fixed it. Well few days ago got another light come on. Now it's only engine misfire no specific cylinder. I checked the ohms and voltage at each coil. Everything is up to spec and looking good. Nothing out of the ordinary with it cold or hot. I'm going to look at the other forums about that problem. Just wanted to give a final update on this page. Just many times of doing the timing system I feel like a pro at it now.  and to the last question yes I was using the timing tools. But on top of that I was counting the teeth cause that's how I always do them. Peace of mind thing for me.

Did you ever figure out what your problem was? I'm just curious because I desperately need to replace my timing chain and VVT but I dont have the money to get it done so I'm thinking about doing it myself. Im good at working on cars and everything but it sound like a pretty intimidatingly tough job. Any recommendations on things that you would do differently? Also about how long did it take you? "my car is my daily driver so I cant be without it long"

[tastysi2004]

damn i just remember those days and nights as being long and cold as fuck for no reason!

[USMCMAzda]

what is the
Crank Pulley SST (M6x1) used to hold holds crank pulley in place while breaking crank bolt and torque. ?

[ajberhorst]

So here is my two cents to put into this after a few chats over the iPhone and a lot of Face Timing haha.

I would update with a few more pictures. If your like me (pray to jesus you aren't), you know that you have a wrench that is adjustable, but you don't know that it is technically called a crescent wrench... and yes thats me admitting that before this I didn't know that (flamesuit engage).

... Another thing is that there should be a disclaimer for froobs like me that have only ever done bolts on's that you need to be able to removed your entire intake system, the wiring harness, fuel pump and the housing over the intake cam, valve cover, passenger motor mount, and the power steering pump. This would have been good for me to know as I did this because I went a long pulling stuff as I went instead of just pulling it all off at once, then tackling the actual project.

Another idea would be to put the part number for the Kobalt impact gun that you recommended to me because that thing is an animal and works better than two other air guns I tried to use. Just a thought though, most people probably know better than I did.

I would go more in depth into timing for anyone who tried to do this for the first time. I was incredibly confused about what exactly top dead center meant, but after you and 15driley15 explained it to me it made a lot more sense that this was your piston being at the peak of the cylinder. Also it should be mentioned that you need an incredibly strong bolt (at least grade 8) or you will have to buy an impact gun because you will bend and cause damage to that bolt hole... not that I did or anything... >_<...

Other than that the write up was phenominal and you were more helpful than I could have ever imagined. Not to mention you only gave me a little shit about that crescent wrench lol. Which was a fuck ton less shit than I deserved haha.

I would be happy to take pictures one weekend soon of things that I thought might be helpful if you want? Let me know and thanks brotha!:notworthy :

[motherfnmonsta]

Originally Posted by Bathor10 Ok guys I know it's been a while since I posted but I have officially found the problem. When I would have the popping noise I would immediately park the car and go back to work on it. I decided last week to just drive it and not drive it hard. About 4 days of that I finally got an engine light on. Checked it out was number 2 cylinder misfire. Replaced the coil and no longer that scary popping noise. I thought yay! Finally fixed it. Well few days ago got another light come on. Now it's only engine misfire no specific cylinder. I checked the ohms and voltage at each coil. Everything is up to spec and looking good. Nothing out of the ordinary with it cold or hot. I'm going to look at the other forums about that problem. Just wanted to give a final update on this page. Just many times of doing the timing system I feel like a pro at it now.  and to the last question yes I was using the timing tools. But on top of that I was counting the teeth cause that's how I always do them. Peace of mind thing for me.

Wonder if your flywheel is the culprit for your misfire? There are a few cases out there where the vibrations from the dual mass fly wheel have caused a misfire issue.

[Lex2007]

My god man, you are an angel for posting this procedure. And I say this as an atheist!

All joking aside, you really are a true brother. A humanitarian. I have posted indepth instructions of this type on various forums and I know how much time it takes. We should all buy you one huge giant BEER plus a beer wench to service you.

So....I have a question. My 07 speed3 is at 74k...so Mazda will laugh if I go there asking for mercy. But before I decide to do this myself, I need to know what the implications are for fucking this procedure up. Thats my test for any such job. If I screw it up will it cost me more than paying for someone to fix it the first time or will I just have to do it twice?!

what are the total costs for parts versus paying a dealer?

So I ask you as a guy who has changed transmissions, clutches, etc and who has a full compliment of air tools, but who is not familiar with valvetrains, can I do this without destroying my engine?

This is my daily driver. She's gotta work flawlessly.

Lex

[Lex2007]

One last question. IS this the noise caused by a bad VVT actuator and stretched chain?

07 mazda speed3 engine noise what is it - YouTube

07 mazda speed3 engine noise what is it - YouTube

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by Lex2007 One last question. IS this the noise caused by a bad VVT actuator and stretched chain? 07 mazda speed3 engine noise what is it - YouTube

Thank you for your kind words lol. Its hard to say with the video you posted. Take a video of the car starting up. Most vvt noises are within the fkrst 5-10 seconds of start up. really bad vvt youll hear the whole time.

As far as the rest if your questions ill have to answer later when I get to a computer.

-PJ

Galaxy S4 Bitches, fuck an iFail!!!

[Lex2007]

so, Mr. Rokusek, what the deal?

what are the total costs for parts versus paying a dealer?

If I screw up the repair will it cost me more than paying for someone to fix it the first time or will I just have to do it twice?

Lex

[USMCMAzda]

I can answer this... It will cost a lot if you have to do it a second time.. I paid someone to do mine because I didn't want to mess with it I bought all the parts my self and just paid labor. If it messes up once kiss your head goodbye..

[Lex2007]

Originally Posted by USMCMAzda I can answer this... It will cost a lot if you have to do it a second time.. I paid someone to do mine because I didn't want to mess with it I bought all the parts my self and just paid labor. If it messes up once kiss your head goodbye..

ok. What did you pay for labor? parts?

So the consequences are that you will bend valves? incessant engine lights? Can you be more specific?

Lex

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by Lex2007 My god man, you are an angel for posting this procedure. And I say this as an atheist! All joking aside, you really are a true brother. A humanitarian. I have posted indepth instructions of this type on various forums and I know how much time it takes. We should all buy you one huge giant BEER plus a beer wench to service you. So....I have a question. My 07 speed3 is at 74k...so Mazda will laugh if I go there asking for mercy. But before I decide to do this myself, I need to know what the implications are for fucking this procedure up. Thats my test for any such job. If I screw it up will it cost me more than paying for someone to fix it the first time or will I just have to do it twice?! Doing this yourself is easy and can be done in a weekend if you have the mechanical abilities and the tools. If you fuck it up there is a possibility of bending some valves from the timing being off. you could not tighten down the crank bolt or cam bolt and risk it all falling apart and damaging the motor. I just spent a weekend walking @ajbernhorst; though this process, He didnt do a right up as far as how easy it was as i asked him to but. He did it over the course of a few days when it could have been done in a day or two. he ran into some unforseen issues that he couldnt have prevented along with not listening to me when i told him to do something a specific way. However, his car is running i think hes having some high KR right now, and is still trying to trouble shoot that. what are the total costs for parts versus paying a dealer? Your probly looking to spend a max of 350 to do it yourself, unless you need to buy tools, if you take it to the dealer and pay out of pocket your looking to spend a minimum of 1500. pending on where you go. So I ask you as a guy who has changed transmissions, clutches, etc and who has a full compliment of air tools, but who is not familiar with valvetrains, can I do this without destroying my engine? If you have done all that and then some there is no reason you cant do this... the first time I did this was on my own car and the only thing i really knew about cars was simple bolts ons on the speed3. it took me 3 days of fail because i didnt listen to several people when i should have, and i didnt tighten down the ground on top of the fuel pump housing. This is my daily driver. She's gotta work flawlessly. It looks super scary and the outcome of failure scares the shit out of some, but if you take your time read over the OP and know what needs to be done. you can do it. The best advice I can give you for this swap is DO NOT RUSH IT!!! TAKE YOUR TIME!!! Lex

I appologize for the delay, work school and my car being down has been taking up my time. Finals next week. but, my thoughts are in red ---^^^

-PJ

[USMCMAzda]

07 74k? Didn't Mazda extend the warranty for this untill 80k?

[Lex2007]

Originally Posted by Rokusek I appologize for the delay, work school and my car being down has been taking up my time. Finals next week. but, my thoughts are in red ---^^^ -PJ

Thanks for these thoughts!

My problem is figuring out what the noise I hear is....is it related to VVT or something else.

[ajberhorst]

Originally Posted by Rokusek I appologize for the delay, work school and my car being down has been taking up my time. Finals next week. but, my thoughts are in red ---^^^ -PJ

I'm going to back him up. I've got minimal install experience and he was there to help me with my stupidity as much as I asked. FaceTime is a miracle lol. Feel free to message me and I will help you as he did for me!

[Lex2007]

Youre too kind ajberhorst. Thx

[Rokusek]

Lex after re watching and listening to your video im not so sure its vvt related. Can you post a video of start up?

Galaxy S4 Bitches, fuck an iFail!!!

[Lex2007]

Originally Posted by motherfnmonsta Great right up man, I couldn't even do a better job my self, and I done plenty of these under warranty. Just a FYI you dont have to separate the hpfp you can take it off as a whole unite.

Mr. Motherfnmonsta,

Given your expertise as a Mazda mechanic, would you comment on the noise in this video?

07 mazda speed3 engine noise what is it - YouTube

[motherfnmonsta]

Originally Posted by Lex2007 Mr. Motherfnmonsta, Given your expertise as a Mazda mechanic, would you comment on the noise in this video? 07 mazda speed3 engine noise what is it - YouTube

Almost sound like rod knock to be honest, but it also could be the chain slapping the inside of the valve cover to.

[Lex2007]

Rod knock! no no no. Mr. dont use those words.

I think we are each focusing on different noises.

That isnt my car in the video but mine makes the same oscillating sound...its not metallic. Its a rhythmic sound...low frequency. Almost like a pumping noise.

[merc73]

So how do you prime the fuel pump once its all back together? I had to pull the head off my CX-7, and have a ways to go before I get to this step, just looking ahead...

[Rokusek]

Originally Posted by motherfnmonsta Almost sound like rod knock to be honest, but it also could be the chain slapping the inside of the valve cover to.

shhh dont use thise words here...

Originally Posted by Lex2007 Rod knock! no no no. Mr. dont use those words. I think we are each focusing on different noises. That isnt my car in the video but mine makes the same oscillating sound...its not metallic. Its a rhythmic sound...low frequency. Almost like a pumping noise.

Like I said post a video of your car at start up.

Originally Posted by merc73 So how do you prime the fuel pump once its all back together? I had to pull the head off my CX-7, and have a ways to go before I get to this step, just looking ahead...

Once it's all back together you will to the key to on but dont start it. Let it sit for a moment while the pump primes the fuel rail for 20-30 seconds or so then back off again for a few seconds. Then repeat 4-5 times to be sure. You will hear clicking and a wine noise just like you do everytime you put the key to the on position before starting. Then turn her over.

Galaxy S4 Bitches, fuck an iFail!!!

[merc73]

So a couple more questions. I noticed the crank timing gear spins freely on the shaft, so I take it that torqing the crank pulley is what holds the gear in time? What is the function of the friction washers? These help hold the gears in place? And why is it so important to replace them? They look fine.

Got all my parts ordered including a rebuilt head. Its all apart and I'm replacing the turbo as well.
$1525.00 dollar experiment. Wish me luck

[Lex2007]

Originally Posted by merc73 So a couple more questions. I noticed the crank timing gear spins freely on the shaft, so I take it that torqing the crank pulley is what holds the gear in time? What is the function of the friction washers? These help hold the gears in place? And why is it so important to replace them? They look fine. Got all my parts ordered including a rebuilt head. Its all apart and I'm replacing the turbo as well. $1525.00 dollar experiment. Wish me luck

Where do you get a rebuilt head? Mazda?

May I ask what happened to it?

[merc73]

Originally Posted by Lex2007 Where do you get a rebuilt head? Mazda? May I ask what happened to it?

Mazda 3 6 2 3 DOHC Cylinder Head L3K9 | eBay

On EBAY, where else... LOL

My wifes car, a CX-7, had the timing chain break and the valves were damaged. Rather than replacing the entire engine, I'm doing it on the cheap and crossing my fingers. Its a ton of work I can tell you that.

How do you get the upper 02 sensor out of the turbo manifold...anybody?

[Lex2007]

Taking the upper sensor off is easy. I posted a procedure on the mazda3forums....with pics. google it.