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MazdaSpeed 3 - How-To's MazdaSpeed 3 - How-To's - Want help out fellow owners? Post How-To's to simplify future installations for others.


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 Old 06-20-2018, 05:35 PM   #1
 
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Default Strut mount problems !!!

Mazdaspeed 3 Gen 2


I recently bought the corksport strut and spring combo set. Got them installed by my local shop with new monroe strut mounts and bearings. Two days after getting them installed I noticed a metal to metal contact noise coming from the top of the struts. So i took my car back and they replaced the strut mount and bearings on both sides. NOISE GONE!!! Well a week later the noise is back. Im not made of money so 3 months pass with the noise getting louder. So I bought the factory strut mounts and bearings and put them on my self. The same damn thing happens, noise is back and still to this day. All corksport had to say is send pictures and ive been trying to get my car on the lift. Just wanted to see if y'all could help me out on this one or give me advice. Yes my car has been aligned every time after.
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 Old 06-20-2018, 07:36 PM   #2
 
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There are quite a few threads with people complaining about extremely quick failures of aftermarket mounts. While some of these maybe installer error, the general consensus is if you want to be sure you're getting a quality part that won't fail prematurely, just go with OEM mounts/bearings. Regardless of which mounts you use:

1. If the top nut on the piston is not properly torqued it does not properly pre-load the spring. As the spring settles in it can get pretty loose, causing it to move around. It should be torqued to around 40-45 lb-ft.
2. Strut Mounting bolts should be torqued to 30 lb-ft.
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 Old 06-21-2018, 05:34 AM   #3
 
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at least on my Koni FSD's, the top but on the strut has a slot for an Allen key on the top to prevent the strut from rotating while you torque. This means I cannot get a torque wrench on it and I actually have no idea how to properly torque it, I've screwed this up twice now and ruined 2 mounts
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 Old 06-21-2018, 11:35 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by Bingo View Post
at least on my Koni FSD's, the top but on the strut has a slot for an Allen key on the top to prevent the strut from rotating while you torque. This means I cannot get a torque wrench on it and I actually have no idea how to properly torque it, I've screwed this up twice now and ruined 2 mounts

Aside from the many strut nut tool kits you can get (most likely available for rental for free from a local auto parts store), there are also hundreds of pass through ratchets and wrenches. Keep center rod from rotating with Allen bit, torque nut down with pass through wrench.

Since spring clamps are recommended to get the mount off the OEM strut without launching the mount into your face or across your garage, the spring is obviously meant to be pre loaded. Tighten that sucker down.


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 Old 06-21-2018, 11:56 AM   #5
 
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Originally Posted by Solarsurge View Post
Aside from the many strut nut tool kits you can get (most likely available for rental for free from a local auto parts store), there are also hundreds of pass through ratchets and wrenches. Keep center rod from rotating with Allen bit, torque nut down with pass through wrench.

Since spring clamps are recommended to get the mount off the OEM strut without launching the mount into your face or across your garage, the spring is obviously meant to be pre loaded. Tighten that sucker down.


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Ya, I understand the process (now), but I've not heard of a pass-through torque wrench. I now have welded a socket to a metal rod as my make shift pass-through wrench (I wanted to learn to weld), but I have no way to measure the torque. I just crank down on it now.
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 Old 06-21-2018, 12:17 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by Bingo View Post
Ya, I understand the process (now), but I've not heard of a pass-through torque wrench. I now have welded a socket to a metal rod as my make shift pass-through wrench (I wanted to learn to weld), but I have no way to measure the torque. I just crank down on it now.
If you want to be 100% sure:
J-42468 Front Strut Mount Nut Wrench Set

Otherwise, most of us just use wrenching experience and the mystical powers of the wrench gods to know what 40-45 lb-ft feels like because we don't want to spend $80 on a tool for a job we may only do once.

There's also this, which comes with a 17mm socket, and it's cheaper:
https://www.ebay.com/i/132275671163?chn=ps

Last edited by Solarsurge; 06-21-2018 at 12:17 PM. Reason: MSF Database - Automerged Doublepost
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 Old 06-21-2018, 01:28 PM   #7
 
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Originally Posted by Solarsurge View Post
There's also this, which comes with a 17mm socket, and it's cheaper:
https://www.ebay.com/i/132275671163?chn=ps
Ya...that's exactly what I've never heard of. Thanks.
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 Old 06-21-2018, 10:14 AM   #8
 
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I used O'Reilly/Checker top hat mount and bearing with Sach's shocks and struts because I'm cheap like that. No problems. I am suspecting install error. Google the thread on the front strut install for a reference. I got 25k miles on my mount and bearings so far.
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 Old 06-21-2018, 10:19 AM   #9
 
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Did you accidentally leave any parts out? Sounds like the insulator is missing or its not properly tightened. I have an MS6 however I installed strut mounts from Rock Auto and no issues.
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 Old 06-24-2018, 07:24 PM   #10
 
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sorry for getting back so late been working a lot. But im sure im not leaving parts out. Here are some pictures of the passenger side and driver side. To me it looks bent at an angle.
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