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 Old 07-14-2008, 05:07 AM   #1
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Default Cobb tuning Mazdaspeed 3 STS

Review comments here.
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 Old 07-14-2008, 06:28 AM   #2
 
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ok I want one now
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 Old 07-14-2008, 06:59 AM   #3
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Originally Posted by FastAttack View Post
ok I want one now
x2 can't wait for mine to come in
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 Old 07-14-2008, 07:31 AM   #4
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Didn't notice any pricing.
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 Old 07-14-2008, 08:05 AM   #5
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Originally Posted by Ryz View Post
Didn't notice any pricing.
Good catch.. $275
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 Old 07-14-2008, 08:16 AM   #6
 
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Thanks for the write-up will help tremendously when mine gets delivered.

All that messing with spring, can that be done with the shifter assembly removed from the car or do you have to monkey with all that with the shifter in place?
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 Old 07-14-2008, 08:26 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by JeepJockey View Post
Thanks for the write-up will help tremendously when mine gets delivered.

All that messing with spring, can that be done with the shifter assembly removed from the car or do you have to monkey with all that with the shifter in place?
I wish it could be easier.. You need to do this in the car and it sucks. As long as you have a pair of needle nose pliers that have gripping, you will be ok. You try another way cobb discusses in their install instructions using a piece of wire. Either way, this isn't a one man job.
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 Old 07-14-2008, 12:53 PM   #8
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Originally Posted by JeepJockey View Post
Thanks for the write-up will help tremendously when mine gets delivered.

All that messing with spring, can that be done with the shifter assembly removed from the car or do you have to monkey with all that with the shifter in place?
Should have come back in the house to look at Haltech's FMIC review earlier yesterday. I spent over 30 minutes trying to get that 90 degree reducer on the turbo outlet before getting online to look for ideas. Read Hal's advice on using channel locks and 5 minutes later the reducer was on.
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 Old 07-15-2008, 09:07 AM   #9
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Originally Posted by Erich View Post
Should have come back in the house to look at Haltech's FMIC review earlier yesterday. I spent over 30 minutes trying to get that 90 degree reducer on the turbo outlet before getting online to look for ideas. Read Hal's advice on using channel locks and 5 minutes later the reducer was on.
Dont feel bad, i spent 60 minutes trying to fit it on before i broke out the channel locks. Im glad it worked for you! Whole purpose of reading reviews, better advice than what a manual covers.
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 Old 07-14-2008, 08:19 AM   #10
 
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Just ordered one, thanks for the informative review!
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 Old 07-14-2008, 09:54 AM   #11
 
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Do you still have the shifter weight on there? The one that's in the engine bay? Or did you take that out awhile back?

Very nice write up!
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 Old 07-14-2008, 10:08 AM   #12
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I never removed the weight from the engine bay.
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 Old 07-14-2008, 10:43 AM   #13
 
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Hmmm, so I have the bushings and everyone is going to be selling their TWM to get this.

Should I get a TWM for $150 shipped, or the Cobb for $275 + shipping? I'm inclined to go with the former since it's half the price. Is that Cobb worth double the price?

Another great write up by the way.
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 Old 07-14-2008, 11:23 AM   #14
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If price is important to you, pick up the TWM. If it doesn't matter to you, get the Cobb. the TWM felt much like the stock shifter, with a quicker throw, but with some stiffness. IT does not feel like the Cobb though. Personally i think you would be happy with either.
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 Old 07-14-2008, 11:24 AM   #15
 
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Originally Posted by Haltech View Post
If price is important to you, pick up the TWM. If it doesn't matter to you, get the Cobb. the TWM felt much like the stock shifter, with a quicker throw, but with some stiffness. IT does not feel like the Cobb though. Personally i think you would be happy with either.
thanks! the cobb looks good and is probably awesome but i am poor.
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 Old 07-14-2008, 12:09 PM   #16
 
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I have a Tri-Ax in my stang, thanks for the reference for comparison on feel. Thing is, whenever I drive my stang now, I feel like it's a workout rowing through the gears. What I don't want is the added effort to shift gears. I'm actually on the fence about this now that I've read your review...damn, I thought this one would be a slam dunk.
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 Old 07-15-2008, 07:49 AM   #17
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Why can't you take the shifter assembly out? I've installed 3 STS's so far. The one I left in was the hardest, taking it out made it pretty simple.
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 Old 07-15-2008, 09:06 AM   #18
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Originally Posted by Ryz View Post
Why can't you take the shifter assembly out? I've installed 3 STS's so far. The one I left in was the hardest, taking it out made it pretty simple.
To be honest, i wanted to do it the way the manual says for reference. I wanted to shortcut it, but at the same time, i know others may have not wanted to take that approach. If anyone needs help locally, i will be removing the whole damn thing outta the car for them though.
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 Old 07-15-2008, 09:13 AM   #19
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any tips about the throw setting you chose? you going with the full 30% reduction? can you comment on feel about different settings if you have tried?

I too will likely move the stalk up to allow for quicker hand-back-to-wheel after shift...
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 Old 07-15-2008, 10:09 AM   #20
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The lower the throw, the less notchiness you will feel. I prefer a shorter throw with notch because, thats what im used to. Im a domestic guy and owning Mustangs, ive gotten used to the assortment of aftermarket shifters. I tried various settings, but preferred maximum reduction. Each one of us are completely different.

The notchiness isnt bad though. It's quite acceptable.
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 Old 07-15-2008, 10:25 AM   #21
 
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Originally Posted by Haltech View Post
The lower the throw, the less notchiness you will feel. I prefer a shorter throw with notch because, thats what im used to. Im a domestic guy and owning Mustangs, ive gotten used to the assortment of aftermarket shifters. I tried various settings, but preferred maximum reduction. Each one of us are completely different.

The notchiness isnt bad though. It's quite acceptable.
lol pro 5.0 FTW i heard you snapped a triax ?
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 Old 07-15-2008, 10:42 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by NYpest View Post
lol pro 5.0 FTW i heard you snapped a triax ?
Yes, i took off out of the hole on a 7500 RPM launch at 12 PSI. I than powershifted second gear at 21 psi with the cars front wheels 8 inches off the ground and that was the end of my run. I barely missed the barrier, holding the tri-ax in my right hand as my hand rotated into the center console. Im just glad it wasn't third gear this happened it, slamming my hand into the cd player. Needless to say, Steeda sent me another. Im quite abusive on parts when i test them It was the weakest billet alumn i have ever encountered. Still doesn't beat the driveshaft incident though.
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 Old 07-15-2008, 11:53 AM   #23
 
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snapped a tri-ax...impressive
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 Old 07-15-2008, 03:02 PM   #24
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time to buy a new camera or learn the macro mode. No offense of course....but i just couldnt tell what I was looking at in half those pics. Thanks for the review none the less.
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 Old 07-16-2008, 11:41 AM   #25
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Originally Posted by Yahdy Ras View Post
time to buy a new camera or learn the macro mode. No offense of course....but i just couldnt tell what I was looking at in half those pics. Thanks for the review none the less.
Im quite capable of taking photographs... however, its not as easy it may look one handed dude...
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 Old 07-17-2008, 08:06 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by Haltech View Post
Im quite capable of taking photographs... however, its not as easy it may look one handed dude...

I'm sure you're used to doing things one handed.
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 Old 07-17-2008, 09:47 AM   #27
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Thanks for helping out the community again. When you do an install where you remove the assembly from the car can you post that here? I am more than happy to change the directions in order to make it easier.

As a side note we are about to release a different shift weight. Yhe stock weight is ~1.1 lbs and ours is 0.5 lbs. It is a gold zink billet steel piece that is a direct replacement. We wanted an option that is about halfway between stock and no weight so that people have a good option if they do not want the full monty on their shifter. No weight may add too much effort or notchieness for some.
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 Old 07-19-2008, 08:23 PM   #28
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Originally Posted by Haltech View Post
Im quite capable of taking photographs... however, its not as easy it may look one handed dude...
K guess u took offense, dont see what one hand has to do with anything. Last i checked unless ur using an SLR u end up using one hand anyway. Like I said thanks none the less.
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 Old 07-19-2008, 08:46 PM   #29
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Well seeing as i my hands were covered in grease, 100F outside, i didnt have time to provide professional looking photographs. We will try to do better in the future for those who dont approve of the quality.
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 Old 07-16-2008, 10:18 AM   #30
 
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is getting into 6th gear easier? I find shifting semi fast 6th gear sucks to get into.
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 Old 07-17-2008, 08:56 PM   #31
 
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The desert eagle?
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 Old 07-17-2008, 09:02 PM   #32
 
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Yes, the Desert Eagle. We discussed this earlier.
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 Old 07-17-2008, 09:19 PM   #33
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Deset Eagle is the knob im going to give a try on.
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 Old 07-19-2008, 10:04 PM   #34
 
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But isnt that why you bring along a hot girl to all your installs? So that she can take professional quality pics to post on the forums? (sarcasm above).
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 Old 07-20-2008, 07:49 AM   #35
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i think photographs at that point would be the last thing on anyones mind nurse :javanc:
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 Old 07-25-2008, 11:19 PM   #36
 
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Well, I installed my STS today and it was fairly straightforward. Surprisingly the trickiest bit went fine. Did it by myself and negotiated the hard part in only about 10mins of stuffing about. Soon figured out that the easiest way is to take the little white cup off, install the shifter and then simply tap it in later. But just when I thought I was over the hump with this install I ran into some problems . . . .

BEWARE OF HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT ALLEN KEY BOLTS!!

As I was testing the shifter knob on the new shaft it was spinning inside the housing. Tightened the bolts and still spinning, a little more and POP the thread pulled straight out *curses profusely*. So much pressure needs to be applied to these little screws to pull the housing in I must say I am not surprised at what ultimately happened. I noticed also that there was hardly any bite with these bolts into the far side of the shaft housing. I purchased from RPM and mine must have been one of the early batch b4 the fix that Hal triggered had been applied. At the moment, the shaft is holding firmly due to added Loctite to make sure it stays in there. Such a shame this happened in what is otherwise a great piece of work.

As for performance, it is brilliant. I also added the TVM bushings (because I had them sitting there . . .). Took it out for a little WOT rowing and it performed flawlessly with a great positive feel. In fifth and sixth gear the shifter comes very close to the side of the center console and it moves a little if the boot leather gathers between the shifter and the edge (only minor movement, nothing serious).

Thanks Hal for the 'how to'. The directions were easy to follow, even for a clutz like me. Love the unit but still shitty about the stripped thread
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 Old 07-26-2008, 12:15 AM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by Cosmic3MPS View Post
Well, I installed my STS today and it was fairly straightforward. Surprisingly the trickiest bit went fine. Did it by myself and negotiated the hard part in only about 10mins of stuffing about. Soon figured out that the easiest way is to take the little white cup off, install the shifter and then simply tap it in later. But just when I thought I was over the hump with this install I ran into some problems . . . .

BEWARE OF HEIGHT ADJUSTMENT ALLEN KEY BOLTS!!

As I was testing the shifter knob on the new shaft it was spinning inside the housing. Tightened the bolts and still spinning, a little more and POP the thread pulled straight out *curses profusely*. So much pressure needs to be applied to these little screws to pull the housing in I must say I am not surprised at what ultimately happened. I noticed also that there was hardly any bite with these bolts into the far side of the shaft housing. I purchased from RPM and mine must have been one of the early batch b4 the fix that Hal triggered had been applied. At the moment, the shaft is holding firmly due to added Loctite to make sure it stays in there. Such a shame this happened in what is otherwise a great piece of work.

As for performance, it is brilliant. I also added the TVM bushings (because I had them sitting there . . .). Took it out for a little WOT rowing and it performed flawlessly with a great positive feel. In fifth and sixth gear the shifter comes very close to the side of the center console and it moves a little if the boot leather gathers between the shifter and the edge (only minor movement, nothing serious).

Thanks Hal for the 'how to'. The directions were easy to follow, even for a clutz like me. Love the unit but still shitty about the stripped thread

Do you have the updated shaft or just install it with the thin one?
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 Old 07-26-2008, 12:39 AM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by JeepJockey View Post
Do you have the updated shaft or just install it with the thin one?
Well looks like I got one of the thinner ones in light of what happened.
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 Old 08-14-2008, 05:13 PM   #39
 
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I have the SU bushings and the COBB with no issues, but havent taken them out to see if there is a difference either.
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 Old 09-04-2008, 06:52 PM   #40
 
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are the shifters on backorder right now or could i order it and get one?
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