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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Also after a bath but you get the point... Just used a heat gun and dental floss, and fingernails to scrap off the gunk. Took maybe 10 minutes
__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT JBR RRM CORKSPORT SRI/TIP JBR SSP/BUSHINGS Last edited by sxshep; 03-13-2013 at 12:37 AM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Those damn heart guns, sometimes overkill though.
__________________ 2011 MS3, HTP 3.5 intake/TIP, 51R battery box, Treadstone TR8L w/ Protégé Garage Piping, Autotech Internals, UR catless DP and test pipe, AP V2 (RichTuned 3:9 E85) ITV22 plugs. Vanilla scented air freshener. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I think I'm alone in this, but I like the genwin side molding.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I'm with you on that one. Less door dings ftw. tappy tap
__________________ 09 MS3 GT Fully Bolted 50/50 e85 Richtune |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Deff looks way better....every speed needs this.
__________________ [SIGPIC][/SIGPIC] 2013 Scion FR-S (Whiteout) GunMetal 16x8+25 Enkei CompE_Cusco OCC_ Kartboy Crank Pulley_Kartboy TMM insert_Koni Yellows_RCE Springs_K&N Drop-In_Eibach FSB_J2 Catless FP_WhiteLine Camber Bolts_Nameless Race Pipe_RBF600_Ferodo DS2500_PTUNING Tuned Less parking more racing |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I wasn't going to remove them, but the moldings only protect if someone in my vehicle were to open their door and hit a vertical post, like found at gas stations. They don't do anything for other vehicles hitting my doors. Neither matter to me, I park at the end of lots and make sure my passengers aren't jackasses lol
__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT JBR RRM CORKSPORT SRI/TIP JBR SSP/BUSHINGS |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score It was a PITA washing, drying and waxing around them too... After I took them off I was shocked how much dirt had accumulated
__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT JBR RRM CORKSPORT SRI/TIP JBR SSP/BUSHINGS |
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__________________ ATP GTX2867r | CP-e 3" catted TBE | HTP 3.0" Full inlet & intake | CX Racing piping w/ Treadstone TR8 FMI | HPFP | EGR Delete | Grimmspeed EBC | Forge V2 BPV | Thermal Intake Gasket | NGK Plugs | 3.0 bar Map | Devils Own WMI w/ d07 Nozzle | Cobb AP Dynojet Dyno: 92 pump gas tune: 326whp & 320tq 24psi tune w/ WMI: 349whp & 351tq 26psi tune w/ WMI: 360whp & 364tq XXR 531 18x8.5 [+35mm] | Dunlop Sport 225/40 | Cobb Springs | JBR Rear camber arms | JBR 80 RMM | Hotchkis front & rear SB| SS brake lines | Corksport CC | MSD Dashhawk |Custom Stealth Sub Box by user: JTMS3 Last edited by keychain12; 03-12-2013 at 11:13 AM. Reason: Cause I'm dumb and didn't read |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Read first post, 10 mins. Like it better on
__________________ 2009 Black Speed3 - AP, JBR Powerpath stage II Sri, JBR 70 duro tmm, JBR Ssb, JBR Short shift kit, JBR RSB, JBR 5mm spacers, ETS Tmic, TWM big type-R shift knob, RX-8 wheels, CPE Stage 2 rmm, H&R Springs, Bilstein B8's to be installed : 3 Port EBCS HTP 3" intake/ MAF/ TIH Autotech internals Corksport Pmm Test pipe SBC Rear Camber Arms |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sorry if this is reviving a dead thread but anyone know anything about repairing this sidemolding? All I'm finding is removing it but I like it on. Mine is coming off and gets worse everytime I open the back door. ![]() Excuse my errors: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________ 2007 TRUE RED MS3 GT RX-8 WHEELS/DRILLED & SLOTTED ROTORS KONI YELLOW/COBB SPRINGS/JBR RSB/HOTCHKIS FSB COBB OTS STAGE 2 MAP RMM/COBB INTAKE/COBB TIH/ETS TMIC OBX TEST PIPE/AUTOTECH INTERNALS/FORGE BPV V2 |
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Once it's bent I don't think it will ever sit right again, I would remove.
__________________ 07 Speed6 GT (Liquid Platinum Metallic) - 35/20% Tint | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score @Spectrum24x; Try using double-sided tape on the end that is not attached to the car. If you do this, then the molding itself will probably not sit flush like it once was. If that doesn't satisfy you, you can always remove the molding completely and take a heat gun to shapen it back to its normal state.
__________________ '12 MS3 Black Mica w/ Tech COBB AP V3 >> AUTOTECH HPFP >> HTP 3.5" >> ATP DP (catless) >> AXLEBACK (no mufflers) >> COBB PIPING/TR6 CORE >> JBR RMM >> SSP/BUSHINGS >> RSB >> STG. 2 OCC >> HYPNOTIC TUNED: tehmadscientist & senor finkle |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just remove the ding guards sine they are already peeling up, makes the doors and car as a whole look so much better.
__________________ '08.5 CWP MS3 GT |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I instantly wished I hadn't taken mine off when I did but I got used to it Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
__________________ 2009 Black Speed3 - AP, JBR Powerpath stage II Sri, JBR 70 duro tmm, JBR Ssb, JBR Short shift kit, JBR RSB, JBR 5mm spacers, ETS Tmic, TWM big type-R shift knob, RX-8 wheels, CPE Stage 2 rmm, H&R Springs, Bilstein B8's to be installed : 3 Port EBCS HTP 3" intake/ MAF/ TIH Autotech internals Corksport Pmm Test pipe SBC Rear Camber Arms |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Put a dab of superglue and seems good as New Excuse my errors: Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
__________________ 2007 TRUE RED MS3 GT RX-8 WHEELS/DRILLED & SLOTTED ROTORS KONI YELLOW/COBB SPRINGS/JBR RSB/HOTCHKIS FSB COBB OTS STAGE 2 MAP RMM/COBB INTAKE/COBB TIH/ETS TMIC OBX TEST PIPE/AUTOTECH INTERNALS/FORGE BPV V2 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Mine starting to peel up but wasn't sure of the look without them but now seeing it I have to do this. Jealous of the white as well!
__________________ 2007 Black Mica Speed3 speedperf6rmanc3 built short block >> Manley H-beam rods >> Wiseco pistons >> BNR stage 1 >> Cobb sf intake >> Corksport TIP >> ISC coilovers >> Autotech hpfp >> Forge V1 BPV >> jbr stage 2 occ >> jbr 88d RMM >> UR tp >> CNT cat back exhaust >> Cobb AP >> Richtuned by Anthony |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Did yours leave the yellowish tint where the strips were? I want to do this so bad, but when I removed my emblems, they were noticeably yellow underneath. Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
__________________ FreekTuned GT3076R, M2 catless DP, CS HPFP internals, Custom 3.5" intake, Custom 51R battery box, Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS, CS shifter bushings, RA mudflaps, TurboXS core w/ custom piping, Devils Own 100% meth injection, JBR 88 RMM, Denso ITV22, CPE Safeseals, JBR EGR delete, Forge V1, Hawk HPS pads, VCTS Delete, 3 bar map sensor, kozmic primary EGR delete (391 whp on Vdyno, ZZB 12-17-14) Build in progress .020 over block, pinned and keyed, wiseco pistons, manley H beams, SP63 head w/ intake and exhaust ports, and mild bowl work. DM TB spacer, L19 studs, XSpower V1 mani, CNT catback, ACT 6 puck w/ streetlight flywheel, CS injector seals, Clevite main and King rod bearings, redefined performance PCV plate, PTP oil pan baffle w/ JBR BSD, 4 bar map sensor |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Interested in this as well, I don't want to remove the side molding if it will leave some uneven discoloration since it's been on there ever since 09 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I have a CWP and you could definitely see the yellow underneath after removing them, although it wasn't that noticeable if you weren't looking directly at it. It eventually faded and now you can't see it. I just went out to verify and I cannot see any yellow. I also removed them under fluorescent lighting so that likely had to do something with bringing out the yellow. Just my observations.
__________________ 2009 MS3 GT - JBR SRI/TIP - CS Racepipe - TurboXS CBE - Cobb AP - Stratified E85 Flash Tune Stg. II (294/342) - Stratified Guardian Angel - Autotechs - CP-e S2 RMM - KW V2 - SPC RUCAs |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks, I may wait until winter. It's usually so dirty it wouldn't be noticeable anyway lol Sent from my VS980 4G using Tapatalk
__________________ FreekTuned GT3076R, M2 catless DP, CS HPFP internals, Custom 3.5" intake, Custom 51R battery box, Grimmspeed 3 port EBCS, CS shifter bushings, RA mudflaps, TurboXS core w/ custom piping, Devils Own 100% meth injection, JBR 88 RMM, Denso ITV22, CPE Safeseals, JBR EGR delete, Forge V1, Hawk HPS pads, VCTS Delete, 3 bar map sensor, kozmic primary EGR delete (391 whp on Vdyno, ZZB 12-17-14) Build in progress .020 over block, pinned and keyed, wiseco pistons, manley H beams, SP63 head w/ intake and exhaust ports, and mild bowl work. DM TB spacer, L19 studs, XSpower V1 mani, CNT catback, ACT 6 puck w/ streetlight flywheel, CS injector seals, Clevite main and King rod bearings, redefined performance PCV plate, PTP oil pan baffle w/ JBR BSD, 4 bar map sensor |
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How long after you had the car did you do it? Was it just recent that you removed the side molding? | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Bought it Oct 2013 and removed the moldings shortly thereafter.
__________________ 2009 MS3 GT - JBR SRI/TIP - CS Racepipe - TurboXS CBE - Cobb AP - Stratified E85 Flash Tune Stg. II (294/342) - Stratified Guardian Angel - Autotechs - CP-e S2 RMM - KW V2 - SPC RUCAs |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score K tkanks. Guess ill just do it and give it a try. Hope any yellow residue eventually fades Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
__________________ 09 CWP Speed3 COBB SRI / CPE RMM / TWM Short Shifter / Apex'i Turbo Timer |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I did notice some yellow, but that may be due to applying heat to remove them with a heat gun... Or may not, just a theory. It was hard to notice unless you were really close, but now I can't even tell. I've clay barred twice since I've removed them, and also have used the Valugard ABC Neutralization process to remove some rail dust and I'm pretty sure that's what took care of the tarnish. I'm gonna have to do the ABC process again this year, can't ever seem to get rid of the f**king rail dust since it keeps coming back every winter!
__________________ COBB ACCESSPORT JBR RRM CORKSPORT SRI/TIP JBR SSP/BUSHINGS |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Lol rail dust must be a pita as a preventative measure. I can't imagine worrying about future rust problems onto of everything else. I'll let you guys know how it turns out after I do it, maybe next weekend Sent from my SPH-L720 using Tapatalk
__________________ 09 CWP Speed3 COBB SRI / CPE RMM / TWM Short Shifter / Apex'i Turbo Timer |
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