UR CBE + TP install: What can go wrong?

[bertrand_CX_7]

Hi together,

just got my UR CBE and Test Pipe sitting home. I may start the install tonight and finish up tomorrow or Wednesday.

Now I never made an exhaust swap. I guess it should be really straight forwards. But What should I pay attention at in terms of what can go wrong during the install and how to check that I don't have any leak after the install?

I'm more concern to not fuck up the piece that joins both exhaust parts.

FYI: For now, I'll be running stock DP. Let see how I like the cabin sounds after the install, I'll think about DP later on.


First Thanks!
Bertrand

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 Hi together, just got my UR CBE and Test Pipe sitting home. I may start the install tonight and finish up tomorrow or Wednesday. Now I never made an exhaust swap. I guess it should be really straight forwards. But What should I pay attention at in terms of what can go wrong during the install and how to check that I don't have any leak after the install? I'm more concern to not fuck up the piece that joins both exhaust parts. FYI: For now, I'll be running stock DP. Let see how I like the cabin sounds after the install, I'll think about DP later on. First Thanks! Bertrand

It is very straightforward...

The only thing I can say is do not over-tighten the spring loaded bolts to the test pipe.

I believe it is recommended that about a mm or 2 between spring coils is recommended to allow the exhaust to flex.

Take your time, and like any project, it will likely take you longer than you expect.

[pzr2874]

Do you not have to cut your stock exhaust out like gen1 had to?

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by pzr2874 Do you not have to cut your stock exhaust out like gen1 had to?

I cut the bolts off of my stock cat (when I deleted it for the race-pipe).

[Ultimate Racing]

Hi Bertrand,

There is a plastic guard/shield on the under body directly in front of the rear left side tire. Unbolt it and remove it temporarily. This will give you the space to angle and manoeuvre the 3" piping over the axle. After everything is in, you can install it back.



Also be sure not to over-tighten the OEM spring-loaded bolts. The coils should not be binding. The springs needs to be able to do their job.

Good luck!

Darryl
Ultimate-Racing.com

[fishin53]

no cause there are bolts right above the rear axle on the exhaust.

[Silver Ecstasy]

Pretty easy install i'd assume. Easier on a lift, not jackstands.

UR - no axleback sound clips yets?

[speed14]

Yes, definitely easier to do this install on a lift. You may have to do a little wiggling to get the section over the rear axle into place, but it WILL fit haha. I almost thought mine wouldn't but just remember, the heat sheilds are verrry flexible if needed. That was probably the hardest part.

Oh, and it would help to have a buddy to hold things up while you try to get hangers into the mounts and stuff.

[krazycoble]

I just did mine this past weekend...shit sounds nice! Just take your time and you should be fine.

[bertrand_CX_7]

All Thanks to every one who chimed in. OK I was late home Yesterday and the only thing I was able to do was to put the car on the jack. Will resume this install today evening.

@Ultimate Racing, @rfinkle2 and @speed14: Great infos you guys pointed out. It'll surely save me some time.

Now the last question I have is with the join pieces that goes between the 2 connected exhaust parts: When connecting the exhaust togeter which part will need that piece and which part not? Because, If I remember well I got only a set of 3 pieces. Plus the test pipe I think I have more than 4 part that need to be connected.

Should I reuse the one right after the down pipe.


Almost forgot: What the right order to start connecting the part? from the other end of the downpipe oder from the CBE?

Thanks again

[Ultimate Racing]

Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 All Thanks to every one who chimed in. OK I was late home Yesterday and the only thing I was able to do was to put the car on the jack. Will resume this install today evening. @Ultimate Racing, @rfinkle2 and @speed14: Great infos you guys pointed out. It'll surely save me some time. Now the last question I have is with the join pieces that goes between the 2 connected exhaust parts: When connecting the exhaust togeter which part will need that piece and which part not? Because, If I remember well I got only a set of 3 pieces. Plus the test pipe I think I have more than 4 part that need to be connected. Should I reuse the one right after the down pipe. Almost forgot: What the right order to start connecting the part? from the other end of the downpipe oder from the CBE? Thanks again

Are you referring to gaskets and flange sealing?

If so, you use the 2-bolt 3" gaskets that we supply for all of the "flat" 3" flanges on the Catback exhaust.

Use our special 3" Donut gasket for the connection between the Catback and Test Pipe (it should already be attached to the Test Pipe).

Reuse the OEM Donut gasket for the connection between the Test pipe and Downpipe (it usually remains stuck on to the Downpipe flange after removing the Secondary Cat).

Hope this helps.

Darryl
Ultimate-Racing.com

[bertrand_CX_7]

^^^^ Yeah that's the info I needed. Many Thanks.

Now that I have every thing sorted out. Let the fun begin!

Thanks to every one!

[memoriesmazda]

Can you but up a sound Clip of this please?, Im looking into getting a new Exhaust Already have the UR Testpipe and was debating on this one or the Magnaflow axleback.

[Silver Ecstasy]

Originally Posted by memoriesmazda Can you but up a sound Clip of this please?, Im looking into getting a new Exhaust Already have the UR Testpipe and was debating on this one or the Magnaflow axleback.

Axleback? Magnaflow's exhaust is catback.

[memoriesmazda]

Originally Posted by Silver Ecstasy Axleback? Magnaflow's exhaust is catback.

yea, got it confused with the Borla Axleblack.

How much different you think the sound will be with the UR Test pipe and the UR Axleback from the stock exhaust? I don't think theirs any sound clips with this, anyone have this setup?
Ultimate-Racing—::—Mazda—::—Mazdaspeed3 ('10+)—::—Exhaust—::—Mazdaspeed3 ('10+) Performance Muffler

[dizzydtrain]

Originally Posted by memoriesmazda Can you but up a sound Clip of this please?, Im looking into getting a new Exhaust Already have the UR Testpipe and was debating on this one or the Magnaflow axleback.

Yes, Magnaflow is catback and it has one section that tapers down to 2.5inches which technically does not make it a true 3inch catback. There is a thread of a member cutting that part and having it replaced with piece of a test pipe piping.

I am putting my cobb dp in this weekend and all I currently have is a resonator delete on the stock exhaust. really curious to see how loud it gets even with the dp before looking at exhausts.

Bertrand, post some vids when you are done. The UR sounds the best to me, along with Cp-e.

[adlpb]

Just be aware that the Magnaflow exhaust has a section which reduces the pipe diameter to about 2.25 inches. It's not a "true" 3 inch catback unless you remove that section and weld it.

[bertrand_CX_7]

^^^^ @Dizzy no doubt, that's why I when with UR Also some good recommendations as well

So I'm almost there. All the parts of the exhaust are up and almost all the bolts are tied.

Just had a little confusion last night were I wasn't sure what to do with the long bolts provided with the exhaust part after the test pipe. After sleeping on it, I was able to figure it out. I'll need the 2 little springs that I removed on the stock second cat. Those need to go on the long bolts and then I should be able to attach it to the test pipe.

Also one thing where I'm really not sure If I did it correctly. When attaching the test pipe to the stock DownPipe, those long bolts, I had one going in and after a while, I wasn't able to tight it further. However, when I move the test pipe I'm seeing that it's moving around his connection to the other end of the down pipe. someone mentioned earlier that the exhaust should/will/must flex. But I'm not sure if it is the flexing I'm seeing. I'll double check again.

Yeah, beside that It was really straight forward after the tips above.

Thanks every one. I'll update later on today with some pics and some sounds vid once I have the car setup correctly with a stage 2 map.

Again thanks to every one to chime in, Ultimate-Racing as well.

Stay tuned for updates.

[Ultimate Racing]

Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 ^^^^ @Dizzy no doubt, that's why I when with UR Also some good recommendations as well So I'm almost there. All the parts of the exhaust are up and almost all the bolts are tied. Just had a little confusion last night were I wasn't sure what to do with the long bolts provided with the exhaust part after the test pipe. After sleeping on it, I was able to figure it out. I'll need the 2 little springs that I removed on the stock second cat. Those need to go on the long bolts and then I should be able to attach it to the test pipe. Also one thing where I'm really not sure If I did it correctly. When attaching the test pipe to the stock DownPipe, those long bolts, I had one going in and after a while, I wasn't able to tight it further. However, when I move the test pipe I'm seeing that it's moving around his connection to the other end of the down pipe. someone mentioned earlier that the exhaust should/will/must flex. But I'm not sure if it is the flexing I'm seeing. I'll double check again. Yeah, beside that It was really straight forward after the tips above. Thanks every one. I'll update later on today with some pics and some sounds once I have the car setup correctly with stage 2 map. Again thanks to every one to chime in, Ultra Racing as well. Stay tuned for updates.

Who's Ultra Racing?

Correct on the springs. Sorry I forgot to add that you reuse your existing springs, but the provided longer bolts.

The nuts we provide are locking nuts. They will be tight as you tighten them down. Just make sure to tighten the springs to about the same tension as stock.

Darryl
Ultimate-Racing.com

[bertrand_CX_7]

^^^^^ haha, Ultra Racing, the kind of mistake you should never do when dating Mireille and say Jennifer.

Thank Ultimate-Racing

[dizzydtrain]

Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 ^^^^^ haha, Ultra Racing, the kind of mistake you should never do when dating Mireille and say Jennifer. Thank Ultimare-Racing

lolz.

*Ultimate Racing

[bertrand_CX_7]

^^^^^ OK it's 9:30 in the morning. I think the coffee is still not working so far.

If I keep on posting, we'll go from Ultimare to night mare racing.

Thanks Ultimate Racing

[bertrand_CX_7]

So heading home to complete the install and have a quick question:

Once I've tighten all the bolts and nuts. Right after starting the engine (before the exhaust get hot) can I put my hand above the exhaust between the DP and the testpipe to make sure there is leak? Will I be able to sense any leak?

Or is there a better way to test for exhaust leak?

[bertrand_CX_7]

OK all the exhaust seems to be in place. I tighten the bolts to the down pipe pretty good because I remember the time I was releasing those they where pretty much tight and I needed to apply some force to unlock them. The one attaching the test pipe and the rest of the exhaust I had to play around with it. I ended up tightening them close to "strong", however allowing a little flexing on that aria. When pulling the exhaust down, I made sure to see some flexing but also was watching the spacer such that no opening is favorable for exhaust gas to leak.

I think so far it should be good. I'll take it easy on the next rides.

Smelling a little burning, probably because the gaskets are getting to know the hit coming from the exhaust. I guess it should go away. Worst case I have the fire extinguisher, at least for the next 100 miles with me in the car haha.


Test drove in the neighborhood, dang the car feel much faster. Didn't event flash the stage2 map. Sound level seems OK, so far. Didn't push the car so I can't really tell, but will post more on this.

I definitely like the sound. Dang the car feel really fast. I really don't think I'll need a down pipe. With my current setup, not willing to pay $500 for 1 HP

Any way this is the first statements after the install.

[dizzydtrain]

Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 OK all the exhaust seems to be in place. I tighten the bolts to the down pipe pretty good because I remember the time I was releasing those they where pretty much tight and I needed to apply some force to unlock them. The one attaching the test pipe and the rest of the exhaust I had to play around with it. I ended up tightening them close to "strong", however allowing a little flexing on that aria. When pulling the exhaust down, I made sure to see some flexing but also was watching the spacer such that no opening is favorable for exhaust gas to leak. I think so far it should be good. I'll take it easy on the next rides. Smelling a little burning, probably because the gaskets are getting to know the hit coming from the exhaust. I guess it should go away. Worst case I have the fire extinguisher, at least for the next 100 miles with me in the car haha. Test drove in the neighborhood, dang the car feel much faster. Didn't event flash the stage2 map. Sound level seems OK, so far. Didn't push the car so I can't really tell, but will post more on this. I definitely like the sound. Dang the car feel really fast. I really don't think I'll need a down pipe. With my current setup, not willing to pay $500 for 1 HP Any way this is the first statements after the install.

Bertrand, not to rain on your parade but the CBE is more likely to give you a 1hp gain than the downpipe. As mentioned before, the DP is the single most restrictive piece in the exhaust set up and it's commonly agreed upon that the cat back exhaust might as well be your last mod unless you are going for sound.

Also, from what I understand the 2nd gen stock exhaust flows really well for what it's worth. I would still like to get a cat back at some point but no way as a significant performance mod to really open the car up; that's what the dp is for.

The downpipes bang for the buck is undeniable here, especially when compared to the hp/price ratio that the cbe gives you.

[adlpb]

What makes you think a new downpipe, the single most restrictive section of the exhaust, will give you 1hp?

And you can get a full DP for $300ish from CNT. $400 from UR.

[EvilMonkey]

Bahahaha! $500.00 for 1 HP from a downpipe. Umm try 30whp and 40wtq brothuh.

[bertrand_CX_7]

Thanks @dizzydtrain, @adlpb, I'm aware that CBE will release significant less than the DB. Therefore my irony in the previous post about the $500 for 1 HP. haha.

Yeah, the sound is worth the money I guess.

Now regarding down pipe flow. There is still 1 thing I'm trying to get the bottom of it, may be you can help me out with this.

Like the Cobb Down pipe is a 3 " but the other end of it , the end to the test pipe is shrinking to 2.5". Is this not a restriction on to flow? I probably see this as a mean to easily integrate with ppl running the stuck second cat and stock CBE.

Could some one explain this to me please?

I think I'll just stop with the CBE. I'll decide for later on if I'll keep the test pipe but for now, SRI + CBE + test pipe ==> stage2 is just fine with me since I don't want to push the car to his limit.

CBE + test pipe is just enough for sound and still want to drive the car for a long period of time. No intention to trade it sooner So I want it to still zoom zoom after 150 + miles.

[memoriesmazda]

Canz you post sound clip please? That would be awesome!

[bertrand_CX_7]

Hi Guys,

I'm experiencing some friction issue. The second part of the exhaust from the muffler was touching the corner to the gas tank and making some noice at ittle.

Any way, Darryl ask me to release all the bolts and just have all exhausts part together and hanging. That's what I did. So Yesterday I was able to tight them back (from the CBE, moving towards the tespipe) and each time making sure I'm having enough room there where the exhaust was touching the chasis. But it's still so tigh there. I can't get the second part of the exhaust away from his position on the pic. The best possible position I can get is shown on the second picture. Yesterday after the install was done it was fine, and I did a test run in the subdivision and I was fine. But this morning I started the enging to warm up, at ittle I could hear the touching sound from the first day. I guess the exhaust parts are moving.

FYI: The last picture is the one on UR web page showing all the part centered on the car.

Any one experiencing the same issue with his UR CBE install?

Please let me know you thoughs. Don't know what's going on.

Thanks

[rfinkle2]

Hey! ...

You may have to bend the heat shielding a bit away from some of the pipes. There should be enough room if you push the factory heat shielding away from the pipes.

The heat shielding is very flexible, and you probably can do most of the bending (really more of a pushing away) of the shielding.

[bertrand_CX_7]

^^^^ Thanks for chiming in.

I guess the area where I'm getting the contact is right at the other end (corner) of the chasis, on the gas reservoir. I'll give it a shot and try to push it away from the exhaust pipe.

Will update later on

[pzr2874]

COBB does the tapering on all their downpipes... No problems in the past and have not heard a negative thing about them... period.

[Texas Speed Demon Fag]

Hey man its Matt...we just talked on the phone. Try what we said then get the Corksport exhaust hangers to stop any further vibrations. I love the UR, I still think it has the best sound and straightforward design as well. Hit me back if you need to come use the lifts here in Killeen/Fort Hood, TX!

Oh, on picture 5, that area touching I beat a little till it flattened and gave me another 1/4-1/2" of room.

[bertrand_CX_7]

Cool thanks Matt, appreciate you chiming in. You just save me some cash

Looks like I'll be running stage2 tonight. hehe

Originally Posted by pzr2874 COBB does the tapering on all their downpipes... No problems in the past and have not heard a negative thing about them... period.

Hey men, what u mean by tappering? Sorry for my english.

By the way on Sunday I'm on the tour for my first autox session in San Antonio.

[dizzydtrain]

Originally Posted by bertrand_CX_7 Cool thanks Matt, appreciate you chiming in. You just save me some cash Looks like I'll be running stage2 tonight. hehe Hey men, what u mean by tappering? Sorry for my english. By the way on Sunday I'm on the tour for my first autox session in San Antonio.

You damn foreigner...haha. What he means by tapering is that it goes from a 3 inch dp and then tappers down at the end to 2.5inches I think. Not sure what it tappers down to but it's so that you can couple it to the stock cat back exhaust without issues.

[DONOTBUGME]

the corksport hangers are tits....I had rattling, it was driving me crazy. I just replaced the back 3 hangers and no more rattle

[Texas Speed Demon Fag]

Originally Posted by donotbugme the corksport hangers are tits....I had rattling, it was driving me crazy. I just replaced the back 3 hangers and no more rattle

LOL, the tits indeed...I just got mine in....going to install them when the temps drop below 100 degrees later.

Originally Posted by memoriesmazda Canz you post sound clip please? That would be awesome!

I have HD video of when I had it installed if you like the link I can shoot it to you over PM?

[memoriesmazda]

I have HD video of when I had it installed if you like the link I can shoot it to you over PM?[/QUOTE]

That would be awsome

[bertrand_CX_7]

^^^^ haha dizzy, foreigner is learning english on forums. My english is getting much better than 3 years ago. The only stuffs that's killing me is the way you guys speak on forums like "tappering" or "tits".

@donotbugme, @dizzydtrain, @teamxtaci, @rfinkle2, @pzr2874, @Ultimate Racing: Today is a great Day!

So I found the perfect solution without having to go corksport hangers. hahaha, Without trying you don't know what you can...... So I tried and now I know I can.....

The vibration is not coming from the exhaust being closed to the silver hit protection but from the metal hangers on the third part of the exhaust from the muffler.

Basically there where you hang the exhaust to the stock hanger, that metal part is a little bit too long. So after it exits his hole on the stock orange hanger it shoots out a little bit too much and get closer to the metal part of the chassis right in front of him.

That's why with a little strong acceleration, the exhaust will flex and then both metal part will touch and it'll result to this vibration.

SOLUTION: I put a harder and strong (heat resistant) hose between the two part and make sure it's a little bit bigger than the space between both such that hose squeezes both a part from each other. The result will be: Exhaust won't move and even it does, no metal on metal sound will be heart.

I used the kind of hit resistant hose (see pic below), like what Matt Damon use to route the Oil Catch Can piping. Similar black plastic hose flows the cooling fluid in and out from the radiator. Cut it but a little bit longer than the size on the pic just to provide some resistance such that both parts can stay away from each other once I stop pushing the muffler.

Once you put that black hose on as a cap, vibration = Gone baby, gone! This is the solution. Also I flattened the silver hit shield as said earlier, so now there is plenty of room between the exhaust pipe and that shield.

Thank You to all of you guys for chiming in and the brain storming.

At the end price was good, install was tricky, 1 more thing learned and the result = Happy customer.