bump steer kit install

[specvspeedfreak]

I know the install is pretty simple but I was wondering where all 3 bolts/washer go? Do they all go on steering rack side? The whiteline instructions aren't all that great and I don't want to get under the car and question myself to which bolts I really need to replace. If you have pics by any chance that would be cool too. Thanks for accepting my laziness

[specvspeedfreak]

I know one of you guys know

@Nliiitend1; @Todd98SE; @Celestspeed3; @SFWD 1934;

[Celestspeed3]

The washers go between the steering rack and the subframe. On the Juan I believe there is only 2 but I dont remeber, on the Pu there are 3. The bolts are to replace the stock bolts for the added length.

[Nano91]

Heres the pics installed the kit today today.

Sent from Galaxy S4

[specvspeedfreak]

@Nano91; Glad you got this squared away without making the drive over to my place. Pics will help when I do mine some time down the road.

What are your impressions so far?

[Nano91]

Feels more responsive in my thoughts makes me glad I took your advice and bought it wouldnt mind giving u a hand install yours

Sent from Galaxy S4

[specvspeedfreak]

@himurax13;

[superskaterxes]

how does this help?

[Nliiitend1]

When you lower the car, the subframe (and everything attached to it - like the steering rack) moves down while there is pretty much little to no movement in the downward direction where the tie rod ends meet the knuckle.

This condition results in a steering rack that "has its arms up" at static height, which means your toe is more likely to change in a way that is undesired as the suspension compresses and decompresses (increased bumpsteer).

These spacers raise the rack back up so that the tie rods can be more parallel to the ground at static height, which in turn reduces the tendency for unwanted toe changes due to the arcs of the tie rods.

[Rokusek]

By the beard of @silvapain; why am i just now seeing this...

Brilliant!!! must have!!!!

[warlord]

When you install this kit does it change the static toe settings? I'd like to install this kit so I go less toe out on compression but I hate like hell to get another freeking alignment. I've had three alignments already this year and I don't feel like getting another one.

[BigRedSpecial]

Oohhh must have... my car bumpsteers like crazy.

[Nliiitend1]

Originally Posted by warlord When you install this kit does it change the static toe settings? I'd like to install this kit so I go less toe out on compression but I hate like hell to get another freeking alignment. I've had three alignments already this year and I don't feel like getting another one.

Yes.

[specvspeedfreak]

This is a major PITA install and I still haven't done the hardest one (middle bolt) lol

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by specvspeedfreak This is a major PITA install and I still haven't done the hardest one (middle bolt) lol

LULZ, I told you this install was a PITA, especially if the stock DP is in the way. We used a variety of flex wrenches and open end wrenches and we still had issues.

[specvspeedfreak]

Originally Posted by himurax13 LULZ, I told you this install was a PITA, especially if the stock DP is in the way. We used a variety of flex wrenches and open end wrenches and we still had issues.

I didn't even attempt it yet. Gotta go back and try it. I have no idea how nano removed the bolt wit the heat shield on. I might try cutting my bump stops as well.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by specvspeedfreak I didn't even attempt it yet. Gotta go back and try it. I have no idea how nano removed the bolt wit the heat shield on. I might try cutting my bump stops as well.

I got the heatshield off but I think this install would be easier if the car was at least 2 feet off the ground.

[specvspeedfreak]

Originally Posted by himurax13 I got the heatshield off but I think this install would be easier if the car was at least 2 feet off the ground.

I just bent the heat shield to gain access to the bolt. Im here yanking on it for 30 minutes and it wont break loose. Go inside frustrated that the fucker wont break loose.. talk to nano and realize i was tightening it the entire time lol. Will go back later. Dont have the motivation to fuck with it right now.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by specvspeedfreak I just bent the heat shield to gain access to the bolt. Im here yanking on it for 30 minutes and it wont break loose. Go inside frustrated that the fucker wont break loose.. talk to nano and realize i was tightening it the entire time lol. Will go back later. Dont have the motivation to fuck with it right now.

LULZ. Now I don't feel bad that it took me like 2 hours, haha.

[btstarcher]

Looks like I'll be attempting this soon. Glad I have a Genwin; only 2 bolts fuckers! I fart in your general direction!

[ibcrusn]

30 day resurrection....

I installed the White Line kit KCA405 on my Pu this afternoon and it was much easier than threads have eluded to. If you lower your car there's no reason not to install a kit to reduce bump steer and enjoy better handling.

For those that are have the time, skills and a mill you can make your own kit:

• (2-3) Grade 8.8 or 10.9 12mm x 1.25mm x 75mm
• (2-3) 12mm flat washers
• (2-3) Spacers 30mm OD x 12.6mm ID x 5.5mm Thick (aluminum or steel would work)

Tools (pic of tools)

• 28"+ extension bar(s) (1/2" preferred)
• 1/2" ratchet
• 1/2" to 3/8" reducer
• 17mm universal socket
• 19mm universal socket
• 3/8" flex head ratchet
• 1/4' drive ratchet
• 10mm shallow socket
• 17mm stubby combo wrench

Steps

• Put the car on a hoist or get the front end in the air on jack stands. I used 3-ton jack stands on the first notch up so it doesn't have to super high.
• Use the 10mm ratchet to remove the three heat shield bolts and slide the heat shield out of the way. There's no need to remove it but if you have an aftermarket DP it might be easier.
• Use the 28"+ extension bar with the reducer and 17mm universal socket to loosen the right bolt. (Tip: use some electrical tape to keep multiple sections and the socket together as one piece, saves a lot of swearing)
• Fish the extension bar and socket down just forward of the master cylinder to the left bolt (have a drop light below to see where you're going)
• Crawl under the car and work the univ socket onto the bolt head.
• Back on top - loosen the bolt all the way.
• The right bolt is easily visible from above, loosen bolt and remove. There are little rubber ears under the washer that hold everything together during the manufacture process so flip the ears out of the way.
• Back under the car - use the 17mm universal socket on the flex head ratchet and loosen the middle bolt all the way but don’t totally remove it. This is where the 17mm stubby might come in handy to fully loosen the middle bolt since they don’t use anti-seize at the factory.
• You'll have to manhandle the rack a bit to get the left and middle spacers in place but it's not bad.
• I reused the OEM middle bolt as there was nearly 1/2" of threads sticking out of the threaded portion of the sub frame and still had 5-6 threads showing with spacer installed and torqued.
• Loosely install the new left and right bolts with supplied flat washers. I didn't use the split washers, not needed in this installation.
• Climb back up top and fish the extension bar down the left side again, this time with the 19mm universal socket (White Line doesn't seem to use JIS bolts)
• Back under the car get the socket on the left bolt and go back up top, tighten and torque to 56-76 ft/lbs.
• Move to the right bolt, tighten, torque to 56-76 ft/lbs.
• Back under car - tighten the middle bolt using the 17mm and flex head ratchet. There is no need to go German tight, snug and 1/8-1/4 turn is fine. Hell, Genjuans only have two attach bolts.
• Reposition the heat shield and reinstall the little bolts, snug up bolts.
• Double check your work that everything looks right.
• Clean up your mess and put the car on the ground.
• Grab a cold adult beverage and call your favorite alignment shop and make an appointment.

FYI...For the record I'm still running the stock DP and all the associated heat shields so an aftermarket DP should make it easier.

[allservice]

N

[Clintb3astwood]

Bump this, Anyone have this installed and did their alignment? whats your impression of this?

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by Clintb3astwood Bump this, Anyone have this installed and did their alignment? whats your impression of this?

Yes.
Yes.
Works good.

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[Clintb3astwood]

Originally Posted by himurax13 Yes. Yes. Works good. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Excellent, guess i gotta just do the full alignment and drive it again.

[himurax13]

Originally Posted by Clintb3astwood Excellent, guess i gotta just do the full alignment and drive it again.

I drove it for a while without getting an alignment. Didn't notice much of a change.

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[Clintb3astwood]

Originally Posted by himurax13 I drove it for a while without getting an alignment. Didn't notice much of a change. Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk

Well my alignment was dangerously off. I did moog control arms, end links, tie rods, whiteline sway bar bushings, the bump steer kit, coilovers with swift springs, spc upper arms, moog rear lower arms, CS rear sway bar and along list of other stuff.