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 Old 10-20-2019, 04:27 PM   #1
 
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Default Tuning help!

Hello,

I am inquiring about a tune for my 2011 Mazdaspeed 3. I bought the car over a month ago and it was previously modded by the last owner. I was unaware that it had a Accessport connected to it and was unsure what the map the car was currently running. Unfortunately, the engine blew with-in an hour of me driving off the lot with it. I was fortunate enough to receive a new engine replacement for my car, however the previous engine had a front mount intercooler with a blowoff valve and the replacement engine is an engine mounted intercooler without blowoff valve. The previous engine had high-pressure fuel pump internals, but I do not believe they installed it in my replacement engine. I recently bought a Accessport v1 with some 2007-2008 Cobb stock maps on it, however I did not install it because it would revert the current tune on my car to stock. I have a catback exhaust with 2 mufflers and a corksport cold air intake currently on the engine (stock turbo). I was wondering would it be safe to install the Accessport to the car and run at stock tune for now to insure better engine safety until I could get a proper tune on the car, or leave the previous tune on the car and wait to get the car tuned professionally?
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 Old 10-21-2019, 06:20 AM   #2
 
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you got a factory engine without flashy mods on it. Why not getting parts back from the blown engine ? If you bought a car with those parts, you should get them back...

Anyway, to increase lifespan of your new engine, you should read a lot on here to understand how our engine works and what to do and ...what you shouldn't do...

Btw how does it blow up ? did a rod went thru the bloc ? Timing ?

Running blind with a unknown tune is dangerous. I would load a base map for sure.
A tune is related to used parts and could also be potential reason why the first one blew up...

The bov isn't needed, oem got a bpv that work better with our maf system.
oem tmic isn't that bad with less potential leaking connection. A fmic is more usefull for drag runs...

hpfp is said to be needed if you have an intake mod for the gen2...

Everything said above is easy to find on this forum and you better know more than needed about those cars.
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 Old 10-21-2019, 06:29 AM   #3
 
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Does the car have an exhaust on it?

I have seen people have their car modded up and remove the AP and tune prior to selling the car which can be a recipe for a blown engine for the new buyer.
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 Old 10-23-2019, 06:10 PM   #4
 
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Hey thanks for the responce! A connecting rod bearing in cylinder 2 went. I was talking to a buddy of mine who has owned a WRX in the past (I know it's sacrilege to talk about Subies on here) and told me to do the same, get a COBB stage 1+ before I get it professionally tuned by an etuner (most likely). I want to install the hpfp and internals, just waiting for a good time to do all the work. The AP I received was unmarried, but had some COBB base maps on it for 2007-08 ms3's. I should get the current maps base COBB maps I'm guessing?
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 Old 10-23-2019, 06:16 PM   #5
 
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Also I did receive the FMIC piping from the dealer from the old engine!
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 Old 10-23-2019, 09:05 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by tripppleP View Post
Does the car have an exhaust on it?

I have seen people have their car modded up and remove the AP and tune prior to selling the car which can be a recipe for a blown engine for the new buyer.
Yes Catback 4 inch exhaust tips with mufflers
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 Old 10-24-2019, 11:37 AM   #7
 
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You said you have an Accessport v1? That's pretty old... Cobb ended support for v2 last year. You may run into map compatibly issues.
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 Old 10-24-2019, 12:32 PM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by tegxsi View Post
You said you have an Accessport v1? That's pretty old... Cobb ended support for v2 last year. You may run into map compatibly issues.
Sorry definitely meant v2
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 Old 10-24-2019, 12:34 PM   #9
 
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In your case I would absolutely reflash a stockish map with your new stock engine. There's no telling what tune the ECU had before with the modded engine, and it certainly isn't appropriate for what you have in the car now. Although if I were to guess, I bet the previous installer uninstalled his Accessport (thus reverting the car to a stock map) and then the mods with an unsuitable tune made it go pop. Not the first time that's happened. I wouldn't get into boost at all until you do that.

One thing about the exhaust. If it's just the catback that has been replaced and the downpipe and cats are stock then the stock maps will be fine. If the downpipe has been replaced with something aftermarket I wouldn't even run the car without a custom tune.
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 Old 10-24-2019, 03:05 PM   #10
 
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for rod knock you should also avoid boosting below 3000rpm
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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 Old 10-26-2019, 11:29 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by tegxsi View Post
You said you have an Accessport v1? That's pretty old... Cobb ended support for v2 last year. You may run into map compatibly issues.
Originally Posted by Jeff23spl View Post
for rod knock you should also avoid boosting below 3000rpm
Would a COBB stage 1 ots map help alleviate this issue? I plan on getting freektune ots plus map eventually, just waiting on getting the upgraded hpfp internals, but I need the car to run reliably until then because I use it to get to work. I haven't noticed any issues again, however I haven't logged anything because I was unsure about installing the ap and reverting the current tune on the car.
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 Old 10-28-2019, 06:46 AM   #12
 
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revert it to stock map and if you want to add a safety factor until you get the pump, just disconnect the WG solenoid electrical connector. this way you zero out your wastegate duty and will just boost on the spring rate (+/-10psi) this way there is no worry about running out of fuel pressure. At worst you may get a sell about the disconnected wire.

But this won'T help low octane fuel or someone lazy to downshift that would load the car in high gears below 3000rpm...
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Mazda for life...or until i can afford something better...

2007 rusted Speed6... Forged with meth and a 3076 in progress...
1993 Ford Probe KLZE 143dB
2012 Mazda3 Gs-sky 6.5l/100 when transporting speed parts
1989 GM 6.2 diesel pickup
Wife drive 2010 CX7

2007 speed3 burned (i'm proud to ran 12.7s with it)

...Because French Canadian...

If you check for leaks and you didn't made a test under compressor pressure, you aren't done checking for leaks....
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