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![]() | | #81 | ![]() |
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__________________ SOLD on 08/2013 2010 Black Mica MazdaSpeed3 Performance: BNR S3 - Sure Full 3" Aeros - Bosch 3 Bar Map - DDM HID Kit 6k 35w - Hella Super Tones - CorkSport LED Light Kit - Cobb Knob (Red) - VG Sharkfin Antenna - Sure Anchors - Jbarone 88duro Dog Bone RMM - Black CorkSport SRI/TIP (Powder Coated Black) - Ultimate Racing Race Pipe & CBE - KMD Internals - CorkSport Cold Air Box w/ Carbon Fiber Top - Turbosmart SU Blacked Out BPV - Cobb AccessPort Stage 2 (Nataphen Tuned) - JBarone RSB - CP-E TMIC |
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![]() | | #82 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Woot! Looking forward to getting this done this weekend Can you guys please confirm whether taking down the SRI/TIP is really necessary? I don't feel like dicking with that again ![]() Thanks! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score It is not necessary. The only thing I removed was the TMIC. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score not necessary but it definitely give u a lot more space to work with. its up to u
__________________ 2010 Black Mica 2004 EVO 8 Green Monster The "7up" |
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![]() | | #85 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score w3rd. I am heading out to my homie's this weekend to do the pump internals since i have no tools at my apt complex not to mention they don't allow you to work on cars. Probably will drop itv-22 spark plugs too since I hope to get them by that time and since the TMIC will be out |
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__________________ 2010 Black Mica 2004 EVO 8 Green Monster The "7up" | |
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![]() | | #87 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I only removed the TMIC shroud. Removing anything else is not necessary, and is a waste of time. Take your time and you'll be alright. |
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| Ur moms boyfriend ![]() Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Chicago, ILL
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| Not Ranked : 0 score great job with the write up |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score thanks for the write-up! nicely done. did the install last night and this made it a hundred times easier.
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![]() | | #91 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I installed my internals as well...finally! I will mention that for the 19mm open wrench, it may be beneficial to find a stubby one. The normal length one is really hard to fit down in the tight space behind the fuel pump. I took off the TMIC and the hose coming from the turbo to help open up some space. Also, for those afraid to take apart the fuel pump and install KMD or Autotech internals, don't be. The hardest part by far is taking the fuel pump off and putting it back on. Once you have it off, it's easy to install the internals. Be sure you've got a vise though.
__________________ 2010 Silver Mazdaspeed3 |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I installed mine last week and everything went perfect. only thing i removed was the sri because I wanted some extra room.
__________________ Mods: stock Eventually I'll pay for how I am....but it won't be by the hand of any of you faggot fucks here. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score quick question, how do the internals lubricate? Do they continually run in the original oil you put on them or do they maintain a thin fuel layer for lubrication? I know there's a little hole in the one piece, thought maybe that's to allow fuel or oil to lubricate it. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Read the thread |
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donate you non heterosexual person
__________________ Mods: stock Eventually I'll pay for how I am....but it won't be by the hand of any of you faggot fucks here. | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Did mine today with a buddy who did it on his GenDone a while back - here's my take on things: 1. You do not need to depressurize the system; just let it sit for 10-15 minutes to let the engine cool if you drove it; if you did not drive it - get going, it's not primed anyway. 2. Removing the Intercooler is NOT necessary... but I removed mine anyway because I changed my plugs. 3. Definitely use vice grips. Definitely. 4. You can drop your pump once - it will survive /facepalm 5. The bug nut for the bottom feeder metal hose is a bitch. I hate it. We're not talking. Other than that - it's pretty much straight forward. Oh - and as someone mentioned - make sure you bolt the pump in evenly! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score woodworker vice should be good?
__________________ ||Cobb AP(DJ tuned)||Cobb SRI||Cobb TIP||Cobb FMIC||Cobb SW||KMD v2.2 HPFP||Catted TBE(TurboXS DownPipe+Vibrant DPback)||TurboXS Hybrid BOV||Fortune Auto Coilovers||Powergrid Endlinks||Eibach Camber Kit||CPE RMM||Denso ITV22||STRI DSD 60mm Boost Gauge||5000K HID Fogs||Lamin-x Foglight Tints||Speedy Lite-Fin 18x7.5||General UHP 235/40/18||ADR 17x7(Winter)||Nextmod GV front Lip/spoiler Lip||AutoEXE Carbon Fiber Shifter Knob||Carbon Fiber Ebrake Cover||TWM Bushings||TWM Shift/Ebrake Boots|| |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score as long as that motherfucker doesnt move, then yes
__________________ 2010 Black Mica 2004 EVO 8 Green Monster The "7up" |
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![]() | | #99 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score great write up! thanks so much for this.. about to order mine in a couple of weeks i think.. just to be sure, this is the one right? Audi - A3 - 2.0T FSI - Engine - KMD Tuning - 2.0T FSI High Pressure Fuel Pump Kit - KMD Tuning |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score yep, that or autotech. i will be doin another install with autotech internals very soon. should be the same process
__________________ 2010 Black Mica 2004 EVO 8 Green Monster The "7up" |
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![]() | | #101 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score for all the people saying the took out the full pump without removing the TIP bull crap lol there is no way to losen that bottom plug made of metal without removing the TIP unless im missing somthing..
__________________ Cobb SRI ll Jbarone SSP ll CP-e 60 RRM ll UR Test Pipe ll Cobb Knob ll Cobb AP Running Stage 2 + SF ll Auto tech InternalsComing Soon: ll UR Cat-back ll |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score it is possible but u can take BIG risk of bending or possibly breaking the lower aluminum fuel line. All i have to say is that it is better to be safe than sorry
__________________ 2010 Black Mica 2004 EVO 8 Green Monster The "7up" |
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![]() | | #104 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score well since iam doing the cobb inlet turbo install and change the pump ill be easy on it ,
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I did mine without removing the CS TIP... No problem at all.
__________________ 330whp/381ft/lb No Nitrous Meh 403whp/451ft/lb Dry Shot |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score alright so went up to ace and got the 18mm deep socket and with i vice the bolt came out no problem, now that i have the stock internals out do i need to remove anything else before i put them in? I tried to slide them in from the bottom but it felt like they weren't going in and i didnt want to force them and scratch them. Here is the stage im at now.
__________________ Cobb SRI ll Jbarone SSP ll CP-e 60 RRM ll UR Test Pipe ll Cobb Knob ll Cobb AP Running Stage 2 + SF ll Auto tech InternalsComing Soon: ll UR Cat-back ll |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Yeah put the new internals in the same way the old ones were. I think it slides in from the top, then the big part goes in from the bottom. When you put the "Hat" on, set the little shim things inside of it and make sure it will stay in place. After that, put it all back together.
__________________ 330whp/381ft/lb No Nitrous Meh 403whp/451ft/lb Dry Shot |
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Also with that "hat" peice all i do is place them inside that hat and set it on top? when i did this i could pull it off easily, that correct?
__________________ Cobb SRI ll Jbarone SSP ll CP-e 60 RRM ll UR Test Pipe ll Cobb Knob ll Cobb AP Running Stage 2 + SF ll Auto tech InternalsComing Soon: ll UR Cat-back ll | |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score man i must be stupid i cant get the stupid Hat shaped piece with the 2 black pieces in it to snap onto the top of the piston cylinder. The directions say to not push down on the Hat piece but to push up with you thumb from the bottom of the cylinder, but when i do that it goes up into the fatter piece and i cant push no more with my thumb. im puzzled. Edit: ok figured it out end up your suppose to put the Hat peice ont he pistion first then put the 2 black pieces on... i am an idiot lol
__________________ Cobb SRI ll Jbarone SSP ll CP-e 60 RRM ll UR Test Pipe ll Cobb Knob ll Cobb AP Running Stage 2 + SF ll Auto tech InternalsComing Soon: ll UR Cat-back ll Last edited by memoriesmazda; 06-11-2011 at 01:31 PM. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Sounds like you got it! No man, it took me a couple minutes to get that right... it didnt seem right just sitting in there haha.
__________________ 330whp/381ft/lb No Nitrous Meh 403whp/451ft/lb Dry Shot |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score just a quick question on #15..."make sure nothing fell in the fuel pump." you mean when the parts in the gasoline? |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Great write up!! I just installed my KMD's this evening. I just removed my TMIC and had no problems with taking off and replacing the pump. Did a few logs, pump is holding up great!! I'm gonna take it easy on her for a few hundred miles... It's gonna be tough! |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Removed my TMIC and my intake. I was installing sparkplugs and SRI. But it was easier then I thought. I had a little issue putting it back in but i just turned the engine over real quick and it was good. Was a little worried aobut starting it, because I worked on it. But everything turned out good |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Thanks op for the write up, gave me just the push I needed to work on mine.
__________________ no more MS3 in the driveway ![]() but there is an EcoBoost FX2 that will be hunting on the freeways soooon!! TEAM LBN BEERS -- FYCN TEAM MEAGHAN -- FYCN |
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__________________ 2011 Black Mica - Daily JBR SSP and heavy knob and SSB | Sure RMM | Corksport SRI/TIP/RSB/TMIC | Tanabe FSTB | Cobb AP getting PERM'd | Autotech internals | H&R springs | DDM HID | pussy delete - catless ebay dp and tp |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just did mine. Things are so much harder the first time around and for no good reason. I didn't print the directions fully but its a easy install. I was just so paranoid about making sure the internals were clean I spent most of my time on that. Redoing it and making sure everything was clean. I was stupid and when i unclipped the yellow fuel line I got fuel sprayed straight into my eyes. That was a bit scary. I wish I didn't take off the battery and tray cause when I first looked at the space I had to work with I thought there is no way I can get to that fuel bolt, but I guess you can from reading this thread again.Everything turned out well none the less and the car is running fine. I'm going to be taking it easy for a bit.. DP is next.. |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Just finished my install. I took off my TMIC cuz i wanted to look at some stuff but it didn't have to come out. Only the shroud. I did KMD internals and everything went very smoothly. Thanks for the write up!
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![]() | | #118 | ![]() |
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![]() | | #119 | ![]() |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Ok so im having a bit of trouble on the removal of the pump. I removed all of the lines except for the aluminum one. I unscrewed the nut but I cant seem to get the line off. I read that post about possibly kinking it so I didnt want to try to hard. Is there a trick or sumthing im missing or do I just need to man up and pull it off? Any help wiukd be appreciated. Thanks |
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![]() | | #120 | ![]() |
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