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 Old 09-12-2011, 07:25 PM   #41
 
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Yea sure does.

tapa dat ass
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 Old 09-12-2011, 07:33 PM   #42
 
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I have a gen 2 with a ECUTEK tune who has removed the angle sensor via the ecutek software. No lights on dash.
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 Old 09-13-2011, 05:19 AM   #43
 
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Reconnected swas and ran tables that khop is on.....Seems like a fix to me....

Also ran VTA with these tables to find that afr's were nice and stable.....
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 Old 09-13-2011, 06:16 AM   #44
 
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Originally Posted by bewsted View Post
Reconnected swas and ran tables that khop is on.....Seems like a fix to me....

Also ran VTA with these tables to find that afr's were nice and stable.....
More info on tables?
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 Old 09-13-2011, 10:32 AM   #45
 
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read @khopwood77 post above.
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 Old 09-13-2011, 05:34 PM   #46
 
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Originally Posted by khopwood77 View Post
Hey guys try this out and see if it helps with your rich condition. The guys at Cobb let me know what they changed in ATR. I thought the tables were not exposed in ATR but they are available. Below is what they sent me when I was asking about what they did to correct my issue.

In the latest release of ATR (Shifting Control Tables):

Set Ignition Timing Limit (Min) (Throttle Closed) and (Throttle Open) to -3.0 (Stutter Fix)
Set all Load Based and Load/RPM Based Fuel Compensations to 1.0 (Post Shift Fueling Fix)

I have been running my car all weekend without a single rich condition. Attached is what prompted me to contact them. The "WOT 9s" file would occur randomly once every 10-15 WOT runs.

I will update you guys in a few days on the Boost > 22. Waiting on the Alpha fix...
Im assuming this would work with a gen1?
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 Old 09-13-2011, 05:56 PM   #47
 
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Originally Posted by Etipp98 View Post
Im assuming this would work with a gen1?
I'm not 100% positive on that as there are some differences between the ECUs. It should work in theory but I read some of the Gen1 PERM guys have had no luck with it.
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 Old 09-14-2011, 05:50 AM   #48
 
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Originally Posted by bewsted View Post
Reconnected swas and ran tables that khop is on.....Seems like a fix to me....

Also ran VTA with these tables to find that afr's were nice and stable.....
So you're saying that with those tables you can leave the SWAS connected, but it won't limit you in 1st/2nd as well as when turning? Or is this just the when turning limit.
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 Old 09-14-2011, 07:02 AM   #49
 
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I dont think that it takes the limit out of 1st but 2nd seems fine...

I dont get stutter if i launch....but from a roll i always do....

I think there will still need to be a way to disable the swas....

Hopefully @Cobb Tuning will figure out something on how to disable it.
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 Old 09-14-2011, 07:27 AM   #50
 
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You can still pull the plug if you are are an aggressive driver in the corners and you don't want any input from the ECU. My problems are completely gone but they were related to WOT runs in a straight line or easy corners like highway off/on-ramps. Pulling the SWAS fixed that but I wanted a better solution.
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 Old 09-15-2011, 07:41 PM   #51
 
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I have been rocking no swas for quite ahwile now and it deffinatly works but I agree there has to be a a better solution tuning whise. It takes all I have to get the car through slolums on autocross since the powersteering gets so stiff. So fucking anoying that car companies add some many nannys for all the newb drivers and no way to turn it off. With it plugged in it just takes the slightest turn of the wheel and it just falls on its face
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 Old 09-17-2011, 12:29 AM   #52
 
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Just a heads up, when pulling the SWAS you won't get a CEL, but if you check for codes with the AP, a code, "U0410" (lost comms with BCM) will pop up. Nothing to worry about as far as I know, but it's just telling you that the SWAS is unplugged.
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 Old 09-17-2011, 07:50 AM   #53
 
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If someone was smart they would figure out what kind of voltage is going through the wire, then make a board with a plug-in that would trick the car into thinking it was always going straight.

Hopefully we have someone smart here...
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 Old 09-17-2011, 08:00 AM   #54
 
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@khopwood77 , any news on the 3 bar?
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 Old 09-17-2011, 02:31 PM   #55
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Originally Posted by wolly6973 View Post
If someone was smart they would figure out what kind of voltage is going through the wire, then make a board with a plug-in that would trick the car into thinking it was always going straight.

Hopefully we have someone smart here...
Agreed. On my Camaro a company makes a traction control tricker that just plugs in and makes the default off, instead of on. Only cost $20 too.
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 Old 09-19-2011, 09:37 PM   #56
 
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Originally Posted by khopwood77 View Post
There might be a better way to fix this coming soon...

I have been testing a fix from Cobb this weekend trying to eliminate the SWAS rich condition through tuning instead of unplugging the sensor. Prior to the fix I was randomly seeing WOT AFRs in the 9s for the entire run and now its gone. I do not know what they changed I'll try to find out more. From what I gathered it's a table exposed in the latest version of ATR but not visible to the end user. I'm hoping this makes it into the next beta release as it seems to have cured my problems.

Next up is testing the display and logging of boost > 22PSI on a 3 bar MAP for Gen2s.
So, all those numbers in the load/rpm based fuel compensation table to 1? Just making sure I got this.

Anyway, more importantly, any updates on the boost logging?
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 Old 09-21-2011, 05:10 AM   #57
 
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Originally Posted by Ckmazdaspeed3 View Post
So, all those numbers in the load/rpm based fuel compensation table to 1? Just making sure I got this.

Anyway, more importantly, any updates on the boost logging?
Yes you got it ck. Just the compensation tables under the shifting control node.

As for the boost logging, I'm still waiting on the alpha release. I'll see if I can get an update on the status.
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 Old 09-21-2011, 04:06 PM   #58
 
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@Bucker
@bewsted
@Ckmazdaspeed3
@rfinkle2

Loading up the alpha tune for the boost logging fix now. Will report back later.

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 Old 09-21-2011, 04:31 PM   #59
 
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Thanks man! I'm excited
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 Old 09-21-2011, 08:37 PM   #60
 
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Good stuff khop...
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 Old 09-21-2011, 08:48 PM   #61
 
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Results are in...

Boost display and logging seem to be fixed. Attached are a few tests from the ride home. You will see that I'm able to read past my previous limit of 22.34 and I saw spikes of 25.1. Your upper limit might be a little different depending on altitude/baro.pressure (I think).


I recorded over 20 runs today and still have yet to see that dreaded 9:1 AFR "SWAS" condition reappear unless traction control is on. Looks like I rid myself of two demons now. Time to find some more...
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 Old 09-21-2011, 09:13 PM   #62
 
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Originally Posted by khopwood77 View Post
Results are in...

Boost display and logging seem to be fixed. Attached are a few tests from the ride home. You will see that I'm able to read past my previous limit of 22.34 and I saw spikes of 25.1. Your upper limit might be a little different depending on altitude/baro.pressure (I think).


I recorded over 20 runs today and still have yet to see that dreaded 9:1 AFR "SWAS" condition reappear unless traction control is on. Looks like I rid myself of two demons now. Time to find some more...
That shit is awesome!


Ok, so what do I need to do to get the hook up on this?
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 Old 09-21-2011, 09:23 PM   #63
 
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Originally Posted by Ckmazdaspeed3 View Post
That shit is awesome!


Ok, so what do I need to do to get the hook up on this?
I'm waiting to hear back from Cobb after I sent my logs. I'll let you know if they need more people to test. Hopefully it gets pushed to beta quickly cause I can't even open my file in ATR. They had to update my ptm and walk me through getting a new firmware through AP Manager.
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 Old 09-22-2011, 06:16 AM   #64
 
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Ugh, I hope they make it a beta and push it like usual. I need this shit, I dont like just stabbing in the dark with my boost targets. Ill shoot for 24 if this works.
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 Old 10-07-2011, 05:53 PM   #65
 
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Originally Posted by wolly6973 View Post
If someone was smart they would figure out what kind of voltage is going through the wire, then make a board with a plug-in that would trick the car into thinking it was always going straight.

Hopefully we have someone smart here...
It's probably a digital signal that reports back to the ECU not a voyage signal


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 Old 10-09-2011, 11:22 PM   #66
 
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Originally Posted by khopwood77 View Post
Hey guys try this out and see if it helps with your rich condition. The guys at Cobb let me know what they changed in ATR. I thought the tables were not exposed in ATR but they are available. Below is what they sent me when I was asking about what they did to correct my issue.

In the latest release of ATR (Shifting Control Tables):

Set Ignition Timing Limit (Min) (Throttle Closed) and (Throttle Open) to -3.0 (Stutter Fix)
Set all Load Based and Load/RPM Based Fuel Compensations to 1.0 (Post Shift Fueling Fix)

I have been running my car all weekend without a single rich condition. Attached is what prompted me to contact them. The "WOT 9s" file would occur randomly once every 10-15 WOT runs.

I will update you guys in a few days on the Boost > 22. Waiting on the Alpha fix...
After doing this, is it normal to get a high idle for ~10 secs on cold start ups? I noticed, after changing my tables to what you specified and flashing the map, that I get a high idle for a couple of seconds on a cold start up.
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 Old 10-21-2011, 02:45 PM   #67
 
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Originally Posted by myt_tuf1 View Post
After doing this, is it normal to get a high idle for ~10 secs on cold start ups? I noticed, after changing my tables to what you specified and flashing the map, that I get a high idle for a couple of seconds on a cold start up.
Me too. Not sure why but RPMS jump to 3500 during cold start up only.
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 Old 10-21-2011, 02:49 PM   #68
 
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fuck you swass
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 Old 12-02-2011, 04:12 PM   #69
 
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Is the load based rpm comp fix for both the clutch in and out?

Thanks khopwood btw for the research on this.
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 Old 12-23-2011, 01:45 PM   #70
 
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So, FYI. If you have a toggle switch for your SWAS, and you're thinking about flipping it back on while driving, you're fine. If you decide that since it's starting to rain you'll just shut the car off and back on while rolling in order to get the traction control and power steering back, I'd think twice.

I tried it, didn't work so well. You'll end up with not only no power steering, but an almost locked steering column. The car starts fine, but then the wheel is incredibly hard to turn. I think the electric power steering freaks out and fights you for some reason. Once I pulled over (after almost crashing into a creek) and restarted the car while stopped it was fine. If you don't believe me, I'd recommend trying it in a parking lot.
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 Old 03-22-2012, 09:16 AM   #71
 
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@superskaterxes think we could make this a sticky like the Gen one thread?
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 Old 03-22-2012, 03:12 PM   #72
 
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I've had the swas disconnected for about a year now. Autox slolums are a bitch with no power steering, but other then that no bad side effects. Can't wait till cobb figures this out, if not I better start lifting so weights so I can muscle that steering wheel
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 Old 03-24-2012, 07:16 PM   #73
 
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@Monotonous ONE i found an easier way than using a flathead and your fingers to disconnect the SWAS.. just unplug the yellow pigtail after you disconnect the white one and the clip that holds the wires in place. then once those three are disconnected you have ease of access to the swas and you can pinch and pull with your hand no problem.. i just disconnect my SWAS this afternoon. my afr's have returned to normal lmao
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 Old 03-27-2013, 05:04 PM   #74
 
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Has anyone taken a resistance reading on the wires to see if a resistor can be added to make the sensor think the car is always being steered straight?
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 Old 10-09-2013, 12:41 PM   #75
 
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Do you guys know when disabling SWAS for the tech package will disable the AFS and BSM?
I know power over features, but just curious.
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 Old 10-09-2013, 12:53 PM   #76
 
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all you have to do is hold the DSC OFF button for somewhere between 5-10 seconds and it completely disables it for genpu's. No worries about making other stuff screw up in the process.
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 Old 10-09-2013, 12:54 PM   #77
 
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Originally Posted by NCspecV81 View Post
all you have to do is hold the DSC OFF button for somewhere between 5-10 seconds and it completely disables it for genpu's. No worries about making other stuff screw up in the process.
I read differently that holding the button and completely diconnecting have diffrent results.
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 Old 10-09-2013, 12:55 PM   #78
 
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Originally Posted by manila View Post
I read differently that holding the button and completely diconnecting have diffrent results.

Works on my '13 pu like a charm. I turn it off by just pressing it and it still goes ape crazy when going into boost with the GTX. Holding it solves everything for me. Even with the wheel turned.
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 Old 10-09-2013, 12:58 PM   #79
 
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Originally Posted by NCspecV81 View Post
Works on my '13 pu like a charm. I turn it off by just pressing it and it still goes ape crazy when going into boost with the GTX. Holding it solves everything for me. Even with the wheel turned.
Sounds good. I usually just hold the button after start-up.
Do you do it a different way?
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 Old 10-09-2013, 12:59 PM   #80
 
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1. turn car on like normal
2. Hold dsc off button for around 10s
3. release button
4. I push it a second time to verify it stays off because if you do it properly it won't cut off until you turn the car off
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