New GTX3076R smoking bad

[tommyboy]

After 70,000miles my KO4 started smoking at light throttle. Figured the seals were going and was excitted to have a good reason for a BT. I put the new turbo on and when I first started it up it was smoking like crazy, my AP V3 gages were blank, my BSM light was on, my traction control light was on and the tach was twitching at idle.

I thought I might had pressure in the crankcase that was preventing oil from draining from the turbo and was pushing it through the seal into the compressor. I made sure there was no obstruction in the oil return line. I made sure the PCV valve was working and that the check valve in my JBR CC VTA was in the right direction.

I started the car back up and at first there was no smoke but after it warmed up a little bit of smoke was coming out. I drove it around the neighborhood and that was when a lot started coming out again. Pulled the IC tube off the top and it was covered in oil and the compressor was lined with oil. Now I am not sure what to check next.

Can anyone help?

[JSmith]

If your AP is not pulling data then maybe start there. Check ECU connections and then go from there? You dont even need to run the engine to get data.

[tommyboy]

I forgot to mention that the second time around the AP was pulling data and the beside the traction control light being on every thing else was fine with the dash. Just still, lots of smoke.

[JSmith]

Obvious question...is your SWAS disconnected under the steering column?

[tommyboy]

No, I have not messed with SWAS.

[JgamB]

How much oil is still showing on the dipstick.

Presuming you're on a base map appropriate for your supporting mods?

And hopefully you didn't buy your turbo from here.

[JSmith]

What other components did you wrench on when putting in the new turbo? New Intake?

A complete modifications list would be useful as well.

[tommyboy]

Oil is about 3/4 up on the range stamping on the dipstick.

JBR 3.5" widepath intake and ATP catless DP was swapped in when I put the new turbo in.

I also have a CS exhaust, UR FMIC, autotech internals, CC VTA, EGR delete, VTCS delete and a DO kit but that is currently turned off.

I started blowing some smoke on my old KO4 soon after I out the VTA on my CC. I checked everything on that and did not see any issues.

And my map is my previous working map plus the 1.53 multiplier for the MAF cal, timing dropped from 17* to 13*, Boost dropped from 22psi to 16psi and WGDC dropped to 20 across the board. This was my starting point for my new tune.

[JSmith]

What vacuum are you pulling at idle?

[tommyboy]

-10 psi

Originally Posted by JgamB How much oil is still showing on the dipstick. Presuming you're on a base map appropriate for your supporting mods? And hopefully you didn't buy your turbo from here.

I bought it from ATP

[JgamB]

What's in the catch can? The typical snot or raw oil? How full?

[rodrigo]

do u smoke at idle? do u smoke at wot?

do u smoke more or less or the same now as with ko4?

what did u do on the swap beyond the turbo itself?

i assume its a new turbo? did it have the fittings and restrictor pill on the oil feed line side???

this is a mechanical issue , pulling data from AP wont help much i dont think

[tommyboy]

Originally Posted by JgamB What's in the catch can? The typical snot or raw oil? How full?

I dumped it the other day and today after running it for a couple minutes I got about an ounce of gas smelling oil. Usually it is the whole mix of crud.

[tommyboy]

Originally Posted by rodrigo do u smoke at idle? do u smoke at wot? do u smoke more or less or the same now as with ko4? what did u do on the swap beyond the turbo itself? i assume its a new turbo? did it have the fittings and restrictor pill on the oil feed line side??? this is a mechanical issue , pulling data from AP wont help much i dont think

The KO4 would smoke lightly/mediocre at very light throttle. No smoke at WOT. New turbo; no smoke right at startup then light smoke at idle, starts getting bad driving at light throttle. Not going WOT on this yet. The new turbo is smoking way, way more then the KO4.

Brand new from ATP. Came with fittings and there was a nipple (pill?) in the oil feed hole of the turbo

Swapped a catted CS DP for a catless ATP and swapped a Cobb SRI and TIP for a JBR 3.5" widepath

[JgamB]

Any recent dry compression test results? Can you run that CC line dump to ground (drain pan) temporarily. I'm curious if you're getting enough blowby to put more than a mist of oil back into the intake tract.

I don't like to say that, but that's what I'd be concerned about.

[tommyboy]

Originally Posted by JgamB Any recent dry compression test results? Can you run that CC line dump to ground (drain pan) temporarily. I'm curious if you're getting enough blowby to put more than a mist of oil back into the intake tract. I don't like to say that, but that's what I'd be concerned about.

Last week; 195-195-190-190

Nothing get routed to the intake. VTA. Intake and IM are plugged.

[rodrigo]

well then next thing u need to do is check your crankcase ventilation

pcv, catch cans , breathers etc ..... u are circulating oil possibly so the system may not be up to par especially since u now are pushing more air and have less of a restriction on the exhaust as well ....... once u have exhausted that and the oil still coming out the back .....

compression test and leak down test .....


do things in that order and it will most likely give u the answers u are looking for


p.s. how do u know the ko4 u had was bad? how do u know it wasnt blow by that simply gets recirculated by the pcv system ? ....if u want to separate one variable from the other disconnect your catch can from letting fumes/oil back into the intake and stick breathers instead JUST to see if the oil no longer gets recirculated and sent back out the tailpipe....... this will narrow down your search

oh i just read u dont recirculate shit back to intake???

[JgamB]

Originally Posted by rodrigo oh i just read u dont recirculate shit back to intake???

That's right about where I ran out of suggestions. Odds aren't very good it's another bad turbo, so I dunno...

[tommyboy]

Originally Posted by rodrigo well then next thing u need to do is check your crankcase ventilation pcv, catch cans , breathers etc ..... u are circulating oil possibly so the system may not be up to par especially since u now are pushing more air and have less of a restriction on the exhaust as well ....... once u have exhausted that and the oil still coming out the back ..... compression test and leak down test ..... do things in that order and it will most likely give u the answers u are looking for p.s. how do u know the ko4 u had was bad? how do u know it wasnt blow by that simply gets recirculated by the pcv system ? ....if u want to separate one variable from the other disconnect your catch can from letting fumes/oil back into the intake and stick breathers instead JUST to see if the oil no longer gets recirculated and sent back out the tailpipe....... this will narrow down your search oh i just read u dont recirculate shit back to intake???

I am actually not sure now if the KO4 was bad since it started smoking after the VTA add and now this BT is smoking.

[rodrigo]

in that case i recommend u do a leak down test


oil will go out your exhaust in a few different ways

1) turbo leaks oil into itself (not likely u did it on old AND new one)
2) oil gets recirculated via blow by and pcv through intake tract (impossible if u VTA)
3) oil consumption through worn valve guides/seals
4) oil consumption through worn piston rings


i would recommend u do a leak down test at this point ...its just as simple as a compression check but gives u more usable information

pull the plugs also and see if u see moisture , and if u have a good flashlight shine it down the spark plug hole at TDC and see if the top of the piston is wet.....

[tommyboy]

Originally Posted by rodrigo in that case i recommend u do a leak down test oil will go out your exhaust in a few different ways 1) turbo leaks oil into itself (not likely u did it on old AND new one) 2) oil gets recirculated via blow by and pcv through intake tract (impossible if u VTA) 3) oil consumption through worn valve guides/seals 4) oil consumption through worn piston rings i would recommend u do a leak down test at this point ...its just as simple as a compression check but gives u more usable information pull the plugs also and see if u see moisture , and if u have a good flashlight shine it down the spark plug hole at TDC and see if the top of the piston is wet.....

For 1) - But what if after every time I run the car with the new turbo now I pull the intercooler tubing off and it and the compressor are completely soaked in oil?

[socks]

Important to note that you are billowing smoke at idle and light cruise.

I dont think he's even gone into boost

[rodrigo]

do u see oil at the turbo inlet or only after the compressor wheel and the compressor outlet?

[tommyboy]

Originally Posted by socks Important to note that you are billowing smoke at idle and light cruise. I dont think he's even gone into boost

Brought it to 1psi once today.

Originally Posted by rodrigo do u see oil at the turbo inlet or only after the compressor wheel and the compressor outlet?

I have not pulled the new full intake yet but I am confused now because what difference would it make since my intake is plugged off from the valve cover. The only way oil would be there would be if it leaked from the turbo. Not trying to be smart with you, I just don't understand.

[rodrigo]

no i know u arent being a smart ass ..... i dont know u .... u could be a genius or the biggest idiot on earth .... i cant see your set up so i ask questions that i wouldnt ask if i could see your set up myself..... when u try to help people online sometimes they tell u one thing that isnt quite exactly accurate ..... its not to be offensive i am just very thorough and eliminate all possibilities one by one until u arrive at the correct answer .....

this is one of the reasons why i asked on my first post if the car smokes at idle and at wot .... one is pressurized then other is under vacuum and that changes the oil from being pushed vs pulled etc .... its not very easy diagnosing a mechanical problem through the internet so the only way i know how to go about narrowing down the issue and ensuring that the person that i am talking to isnt omitting valuable info is to ask "stupid " questions

hope this explains why my method of asking questions may seem a lil unusual to u

[tommyboy]

Originally Posted by rodrigo no i know u arent being a smart ass ..... i dont know u .... u could be a genius or the biggest idiot on earth .... i cant see your set up so i ask questions that i wouldnt ask if i could see your set up myself..... when u try to help people online sometimes they tell u one thing that isnt quite exactly accurate ..... its not to be offensive i am just very thorough and eliminate all possibilities one by one until u arrive at the correct answer ..... this is one of the reasons why i asked on my first post if the car smokes at idle and at wot .... one is pressurized then other is under vacuum and that changes the oil from being pushed vs pulled etc .... its not very easy diagnosing a mechanical problem through the internet so the only way i know how to go about narrowing down the issue and ensuring that the person that i am talking to isnt omitting valuable info is to ask "stupid " questions hope this explains why my method of asking questions may seem a lil unusual to u

I gotcha and I appreciate your help!

So right now it smokes very lilttle at idle and mediocre at around 0psi. Let me take it down the street and get into a little boost to see if it gets worse or clears up some...

[rodrigo]

yeah that would help narrow down things ..... also , oil consumption isnt a reason to be scared of going into boost .... other than u are simply going to coat the shit out of your internal parts .....as long as u have a crankcase full of oil still of course .... watch your oil level daily

[tommyboy]

I spoke to ATP and I believe they figured it out. When I switched to VTA I had to move the check valve from the intake manifold to the PCV valve and reverse it's direction. They said that the vacuum on the intake manifold was helping pull out pressure from the crankcase. When I moved the check valve to the PCV valve and added the breather on the CC the intake manifold could not help pull from the crankcase anymore.

I was not aware but they said that I was probably blowing oil out both sides of the turbo. They suggested I at least switch back to the closed CC for the fix and give it some time to burn off all the oil in my exhaust. They were pretty confident that would be the fix.

I just came back from a 15 minute drive and I am starting to see improvement. There is smoke but mostly when I get to a stop sign. Pretty clear behind me at crusing and WOT. I took it up to 16psi just for a second in 3rd and it feels smooth. No CELs.

Now I can move on to cleaning up my MAF cal.

[rodrigo]

At least all your parts are well lubricated lol

Keep us posted , with these Fucken motors it's a trade off .... I tried running full breathers with no valves and the fucker started leaking out of the gaskets lol

Good luck man

[tommyboy]

Car runs perfect now...

[Dizzy Turbo]

Haha you just jynxed it bitch lol

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

[rodrigo]

Time to turn boost to 25 then

[Tokay444]

Fuck!















I was gonna say "I bet your check valve is backwards." But instead I kept reading.

[tommyboy]

Originally Posted by rodrigo Time to turn boost to 25 then

Don't tease me! I need to get a block to build. Wife just ordered a 2015 SQ5 so I am not allowed to have anymore of our play money for a while. Might have to wait until next summer.