Review of UR FMIC for Genpu
 

So since UR came out with the Christmas sale, i decided to pull the trigger on the FMIC. As always, customer service was spot on. Within minutes of placing my order online, I was emailed saying the didn't have the pipe kit in stock. They did however the black powder coated kit, and offered me a free upgrade. Naturally I accepted. Shipping was as fast as could be expected with the holiday weekend. It arrived today with everything including instructions. The only thing I wish this kit would include are T-bolt clamps. I decided to purchase those for the install to be certain there are no leaks...I've always had better luck with them. The complete kit is in the pic below. The clamps should arrive this week, and I will update this thread along with install pics/review, and opinions after driving. I wish my DashDaq would record BAT in order to log a before and after comparison. My CP-E HPFP should arrive around the end of this week...They are testing the newest batch of 20. These two mods plus John's tune on the 18th should def make the car feel completely different. Stay tuned for updates!

Kit looks great, I would def upgrade the clamps..... just for peace of mind

Doesnt look like it will rattle very much with the crashbar mount

Yeah I was wondering how they were going to do the FMIC kits for the Genpu, crashbar mount.. clever clever.

Looks great! Can't wait to hear the results after the tune.

Your car is just about exactly how I'm planning my car when the funds come in. Are you planning on getting it dynoed after everything is installed and tuned? I'm guessing you'll be about 315-320whp!

il be tuning it at john's shop in ct...we will prob do a before/after dyno.

ok so an update...the FMIC is still sitting in my spare room. i contacted Home | Fastenal (aka fail-all) about my t-bolt clamp i ordered before thanksgiving. i submitted my order the monday of thanksgiving week and still haven't received any tracking info. i contacted the company twice and they stated they were out of stock and had to order through another company...but that order was lost over the holidays and they had to re-order. this other company is in TN...im in NC. they have to first ship to fail-all in like idaho first, then from there to NC. so they should be able to ship to me on the 8th....BS!

anyhow im going to throw this kit on tomorrow morning in my driveway. il use the clamps it came with. il boost leak test, and if all is well...il then run some logs and post all my thoughts, pics and results...hopefully RPM will ship my CP-E HPFP soon so i can install before my trip up to CT to tune, then boston. il keep those of you interested, posted.

looking forward to seeing this, get some good pics of the crash bar.

ok...just finished with this thing. not a bad install. did it alone in my driveway. took about 3 hrs making sure i took my time, and didnt miss anything. fitment is tight with the pipes. the supplied clamps dont yield any boost leaks as of yet. the hot pipe was the worst part to install, and the only rubbing occurs on the hot side, along the stock tmic mount. see the pictures. the horn bracket has to be reversed, since the stock location interfers with the cold pipe. i simply switched the bracket around and re-installed the horn with no issues. i thought of taking the grill insert out exposing the fmic fully but it would look retarded. all in all its a great piece. no cel's, cant wait to get it on the dyno and tune.

the supplied instructions were pretty clear and straight forward...but common sense should guide you through this install.

and the rest

Great photo essay!

Great photo's. That crash bar looks really small compared to the OEM. It looks great though.

Dude, thanks for posting up the photos of the install. Yeah that bolt is gonna give that hot pipe problems. Any plans on insulating the pipe, bolt, or both to prevent further scratching?

i dont want to cut the bolt incase i need to stock out for anything. i went to autozone, and got some of that metal strapping stuff. like what they use for exhaust pipes. i just wrapped it around the hot pipe for now and secured it to the stud. thats a safe temporary fix until i heat wrap that section of pipe, or find something better. its solid now though, no more rattle.

Wow your smiley face blocks a lot of the FMIC though. Wow. Great install pics though.

i considered removing it...but it would look like i needed dentures. maybe cutting or painting the insert would be better.

install looks great.. good job wish they made one for the ms6

Great pictures and that kit look's really good too bad that the smiley face blocks most of it..:wall:

Then 350 whp for sure sir!

;)

LOL

you should cut the plastic that is behind the smile. it will look better, and get more air to the intercooler

With some nasty spikes and uncontrollable boost

i think i see what you might have done there

Did you contact UR about the hot pipe fitment?

a few logs. first is WOT, 2nd is 30mph pull, 3rd is normal driving from a stop light. I need my CP-E pump delivered this week...ive had my car 4 months, but im around 800 psi sometimes after the fmic install.

these are the first logs ive posted. if they aren't done right go easy...lmk how i can make them easier to read.

i havent contacted them yet. getting the pipe in place was a bit of a bitch. the coolant lines coming off the radiator made it a little tough. there is a nice open spot closer to the belts but that would be asking for trouble if the pipe moved an inch or two...so im pretty sure its in the intended place. i checked the pipe after a few runs today. that bracket i fashioned keeps it completly still...no rattle. im going to make a few suggestions to UR. one being a welded bracket which secures the pipe to the tmic stud. another for the directions to ensure the bolts holding the fmic in place aren't torqued. they need to be a little more than finger tight or the threads will strip. i needed to replace one bolt with a longer one. finally, the foam bumper piece that sits behind the smile should prob also be removed. it will help the skid plate go back on easier. the car feels more responsive. i dont have dyno numbers and im not going to use ricer math; however the cold side was cold to touch after all those runs, the car felt more responsive...no lag was detected...and even after a few pulls it still ran the same, no heat soak issue. im not going WOT until my pump is installed. wish i could monitor BAT's and Kr to give a better review.

I would suggest including the key that is on the right in logworks and maybe adding a few markers so its easier to see what line is what.

will do. first time using that program. i had my trims and throttle position in there also but it was too congested.

its kind of a pain to set up and i dont think its as easy to read as logs from a dashhawk. Im going to try and use Excel for my logs so you can adjust the axes easier.

nice to see a fmic on a 2nd gen. sleeper, cant even tell you have a fmic unless you look really close

yeah all that plastic is definitely blocking a shit load of air flow. you needz to do somethin bout that

You may actually need to make adjustment to this pipe, as well as the lower pipe that attaches to it. The pipe should actually be running along side that stud, and not over top of it. I believe there is a picture in the install guide that shows this.

Let me know if you that works out for you.

Darryl

Just got my UR in, you weren't kidding when you said the clamps are weak. I'd suggest UR send some better clamps with the kit, other than that, the core and piping looks good!

yea i have some tbolt clamps sitting in a box right now. i need to get those on and fab a boost leak tester. been pretty busy since xmas. hope i can reach all the couplers without removing the bumper again...maybe just taking off the skid plate

Thanks for the order!

There really isn't anything wrong with the clamps we provide. We've used them on applications that exceed 40psi without issue. They are used on street and race cars. The pipes ends are all bead-rolled, and we supply quality 3-ply silicone hose that's made in the USA (not the junk that comes from Asia). The worm gear clamps we supply also won't shred silicone couplers like the others out there. When installed correctly (and I stress the word "correctly") you won't have any issues whatsoever. Anything else would be overkill.

Darryl
Ultimate-Racing.com

Ok guys, I'll take your word for it. FMIC goes on tonight!

Kit looks nice, IC is large and was thinking about pulling the trigger this week. I already have UR cat back combined with Cobb DP, sound is fantastic and I love the TI tip look. I have had UR CBE for 13 months and the welds still look good.

I currently have an upgraded TMIC (for sale soon) but not satisfied with the temperatures and have decided to go with a FMIC system. I was interested in the UR system but the outstanding customer service has made me rethink the direction that I might be going with the IC. Let me insert the emails from last Friday.

Sorry, we wouldn't be able to do that for you.

Darryl

Ultimate Racing
20 Cosentino Drive
Toronto, Ontario M1P 3A2
Canada

On 3/25/2011 12:40 PM, I wrote:
Thought of one other, the existing crash bar is where I mount my Hella Horns, could you drill some holes in the bar before it would ship.

Close to US$1200 order and UR can not drill two 1/2" (12mm) holes thru the bar, now that is what I would call CUSTOMER SERVICE, EH.

And CPE is getting brutalized for the cost of their system, at least they are concerned with CUSTOMER SERVICE.

Z

Why don't u drill the two holes? Lol

Probably could, think I will spend another 150, get something from the STATES, they will drill the holes, screw NAFTA. Still happy my car is not blue, :la:

I was going to reply to your email directly, but since you decided to publicly post about this I figured I would respond to you here.

We will not modify our products as per customer requests. There are just far too many things that can go wrong.

I also think it's unfair of you to judge our customer service based on only one of a handful of emails we had exchanged regarding our FMIC kit. I answered several of your emails, and not once did I think customer service lacked. I provided you with pricing, dimensions, and temperature data that you had requested.

I'm sorry you won't be purchasing our FMIC kit, but at the end of the day, I still stand by my decision.

Darryl
Ultimate-Racing.com

Unless the removal of 0.8 in2 (four 1/2" holes) of material is enough to comprimise the intigrity of the bar then there should not be an issue. Typically, when a supplier can not do what a customer wants, there is a reason, in this case there was none, the answer was just NO. The only reason I asked this to be done as I assumed you had a drill press which would help to assure the holes stayed square.

When it is all said and done, a few extra bucks to keep the money south of border is not a big issue.

Z