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 Old 06-28-2016, 08:20 PM   #41
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Originally Posted by subydoored View Post
alright i got mine installed.. only problem i ran into on install was the rear shock bushings. the didnt fit i had to grind off about 1 mm on each 1 to get them to go in. as for ride quality is slightly stiffer than stock. i did drive all threw boston the worst roads on the planet while ubering in my ms3 and got 5* rating for the night so the backseat riders didnt notice a change. i would like to say i forgot to buy adjustable front end link so no fsb atm.
We can't tell by this comment if you like them or not? I think we're all more interested in what you think, not what your Uber rating was.

There should be no need to modify anything. We've never had to make any modifications to the rear shocks to get them installed on either Gen.

A quick call or email could have resolved what ever the issue was without grinding. 1mm is an indication that it was something very small and more than likely a very simple issue to overcome.
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 Old 06-29-2016, 05:14 AM   #42
 
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i do like them... theres slight bend in the lower shock mount.

like i said the issue is most likely just my car. and probably isn't going to be an issue for anyone else. i like how the car rides and would recommend it to anyone now its how long do they hold up.
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 Old 06-30-2016, 12:10 AM   #43
 
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Since it sounds like my Corksport sturts have crapped the bed, I might be in the market sooner than later. I am interested to see how these hold up and impressions.
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 Old 06-30-2016, 01:31 AM   #44
 
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are coils going to be made for the ms6??
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 Old 06-30-2016, 10:53 AM   #45
 
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^what he said
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 Old 07-01-2016, 11:47 PM   #46
 
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On Coilovers, if you adjust the height to its highest setting (.5") does that change stiffness compared to the lowest setting (2.95")? I would assume that the height adjustments can be made while the coilovers are installed. My car sits low for driving in LA and I would like to have it raised up a bit for driving around the city but have the ability to bring it down for spirited trips. Hopefully I can pick up a set in the near future.
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 Old 07-02-2016, 01:56 PM   #47
 
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Yes u can adjust it with it on the car.

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 Old 07-03-2016, 06:15 AM   #48
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Originally Posted by Sinister_Speed3 View Post
On Coilovers, if you adjust the height to its highest setting (.5") does that change stiffness compared to the lowest setting (2.95")? I would assume that the height adjustments can be made while the coilovers are installed. My car sits low for driving in LA and I would like to have it raised up a bit for driving around the city but have the ability to bring it down for spirited trips. Hopefully I can pick up a set in the near future.
No, stiffness doesn't change but the amount of suspension travel is reduced the lower you go making it feel a bit stiffer.

Everything is fully adjustable on the car.
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 Old 07-06-2016, 10:23 AM   #49
 
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Originally Posted by JBR View Post
A 12k rear spring rate would be ridiculous. The ride would be unbearable.
I highly doubt that. The motion ratio in the rear makes a 12k spring rate around 8-9k (actual rate) on the high end. Something quality valving technology can easily accommodate.

On the other end, the supplied 5k rear spring is only providing a 3-4k actual rate considering the rear motion ratio. The front motion ratio would be much closer to actual rate values then the rear. Food for thought.
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 Old 07-06-2016, 10:49 AM   #50
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Originally Posted by Neverlift View Post
I highly doubt that. The motion ratio in the rear makes a 12k spring rate around 8-9k (actual rate) on the high end. Something quality valving technology can easily accommodate.

On the other end, the supplied 5k rear spring is only providing a 3-4k actual rate considering the rear motion ratio. The front motion ratio would be much closer to actual rate values then the rear. Food for thought.
Even lower than that. 12k spring is 6.2k wheel rate, 5k spring is 2.6k wheel rate. A 10k spring combined with that 8k front spring would be near appropriate for flat ride...if you subscribe to that sort of idea.

That 12k rear spring would put most MS3's around 2.5Hz for the rear. Completely acceptable ride and handling with quality shocks and proper damping, like you mentioned. Doubtful this kit or any other entry level kit would allow for that much spring, though.


Edit: For reference, my MS6 is around 2.5Hz rear freq with completely acceptable DD ability. You just have to have the right damping to pull it off.
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 Old 07-06-2016, 04:35 PM   #51
 
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Originally Posted by phate View Post
That 12k rear spring would put most MS3's around 2.5Hz for the rear. Completely acceptable ride and handling with quality shocks and proper damping, like you mentioned. Doubtful this kit or any other entry level kit would allow for that much spring, though.


Edit: For reference, my MS6 is around 2.5Hz rear freq with completely acceptable DD ability. You just have to have the right damping to pull it off.
6k, 12k, 2.5k - space spring rates.

Re: damping rates. People have a wide range in tolerances for spring and damping.
Most racecar peoples can tolerate more than the general street driver.
When more highly sprung, selecting a damper that provides adequate to over damped rebound and underdamped compression certainly helps comfort.

Switching back and forth between gc/koni yellows 3 and racecar 6 with bils tells me that much, tosay nothing of the comparison between @phate; s car and racecar
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 Old 09-18-2016, 11:49 PM   #52
 
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How many people are running these? I have not seen to many reviews out there.
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 Old 09-20-2016, 10:00 AM   #53
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Originally Posted by Sinister_Speed3 View Post
How many people are running these? I have not seen to many reviews out there.
We've sold 11 sets since the release. The only review I've seen is on our site.
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 Old 09-28-2016, 09:41 PM   #54
 
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ive put 9k miles on them so far and love them rides good and i don't have any squeaks and the car handles how i like it with some over steer.
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 Old 07-13-2018, 10:54 PM   #55
 
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I'm going to resurrect this thread. Can users share some insight on their experience with these coilovers. I would like to see how easy adjusting would be from its most compressed rate to the least. Short video would be nice.
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 Old 07-15-2018, 10:36 PM   #56
 
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Curious about this as well. Looking to replace my worn OEM set. Anyone here have any first hand experience with these, specifically on a gen2?
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 Old 08-18-2018, 04:23 PM   #57
 
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I recommend a different rear shock adjustment knob position. Top styled is a pain to manage with needing to remove the shock for adjustment. There is no rear access from the trunk. There are manufacturers that offer adjustment knobs at the bottom or middle of the shock cartridge.

Also, the rates appear to be too soft for anyone considering more than entry level tracking/auto-crossing. More advanced drivers will easily outgrow those rates especially if they are packing really sticky rubber. Some things to consider.
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 Old 08-20-2018, 08:35 AM   #58
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Originally Posted by mr_mazda329 View Post
I recommend a different rear shock adjustment knob position. Top styled is a pain to manage with needing to remove the shock for adjustment. There is no rear access from the trunk. There are manufacturers that offer adjustment knobs at the bottom or middle of the shock cartridge.

Also, the rates appear to be too soft for anyone considering more than entry level tracking/auto-crossing. More advanced drivers will easily outgrow those rates especially if they are packing really sticky rubber. Some things to consider.
Our coilovers include long remote cable adjusters to make it easier to adjust than any other brand we're aware of. No need for jacking up the car or crawling underneath.



As for the spring rates...We chose them because most owners are really only concerned about the ride comfort on the street, the drop and the effect on the ride comfort, the occasional auto-x or track day (as you mentioned) and durability.

They can easily be swapped out for any TEIN style spring.
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mr_mazda329 (08-23-2018)
 Old 08-20-2018, 02:45 PM   #59
 
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Originally Posted by mr_mazda329 View Post
I recommend a different rear shock adjustment knob position. Top styled is a pain to manage with needing to remove the shock for adjustment. There is no rear access from the trunk. There are manufacturers that offer adjustment knobs at the bottom or middle of the shock cartridge.

Also, the rates appear to be too soft for anyone considering more than entry level tracking/auto-crossing. More advanced drivers will easily outgrow those rates especially if they are packing really sticky rubber. Some things to consider.
I'm not 100% sure about Gen1, but on Gen2 Speeds you don't need to remove the shock to adjust the top. The long plastic interior trim pieces that the seat belts go through and the luggage cover pegs clip into come off rather easily and expose the tops of the shocks. You can adjust them from inside the car.
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 Old 08-23-2018, 05:08 PM   #60
 
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Originally Posted by JBR View Post
Our coilovers include long remote cable adjusters to make it easier to adjust than any other brand we're aware of. No need for jacking up the car or crawling underneath.

This is what I'm talking about. The adjuster is under the rear mount on the SCALE coilovers. Yes, you have to jack the car up, but you don't have to remove your shock or hack up your interior. Or as seen in the attached pic, for the Mazda2, the rear shock was inverted and the adjuster was put at the lower mount. I know when I used to have my BC's installed (before they blew out at a track event), that was one major thing i hated about them and I know others with Gen1s and BCs/Ksport/ other generic coilovers have said the same thing.

Just bouncing ideas around. It's nice to see suspension advancements on this platform nonetheless







Originally Posted by Solarsurge View Post
I'm not 100% sure about Gen1, but on Gen2 Speeds you don't need to remove the shock to adjust the top. The long plastic interior trim pieces that the seat belts go through and the luggage cover pegs clip into come off rather easily and expose the tops of the shocks. You can adjust them from inside the car.

You definitely have to remove the interior plastics and then hack up the sheet metal that encloses the tops of the rear shock mounts. I'm pretty sure you have to hack them up even with the remote adjusters just to keep them from binding (smooth/natural routing).
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