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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I'm thinking I need to get a helicoil kit, and maybe two new bolts, I've hear their M8 grade 8 with pitch 1.25 threads/mm? Does anyone know what spec they are, and what helicoil kit to get for the nuts. Or should I pay someone to grind it off and weld a new nut on?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Got your email...are the nuts stripped, bolts broke or both? |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Here's the pic, and I think it's the nut that's stripped, not the actual bolt. I'll post a bolt pic in a minute too.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score And here are the 3 bolts I managed to remove, I may need to replace the two. But, judging from the one I was able to remove, it is most likely the nuts that are stripped not the bolts, unfortunately. A quick glance at the shop manual said to torque these bolts between 30 and 40 ft lb, any reason why the aftermarket RSBs say 50?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score If it's the bottom 2, I think you can drill them and use a nut and a longer bolt. |
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score There may be enough bolt sticking through, that a nut and washer could suffice, I'd have to go out and check first. However, it would probably be wise just to just bolts with some grip length. A helicoil seems like the most legit way, are you sure they're M10 bolts?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score i used the bolt and thread pattern at ricezone(autozone) to make sure the bolt was correct. Matched mine perfectly. M10-1.25 x30mm fit like stock
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score So helicoil it is, anything I need besides two new bolts, a helicoil set, tap wrench, thread lube, drill bit? What would be the best way to get this bolt out?
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| Not Ranked : 0 score This happened on a friends car. There was enough room to put a bolt, a lock washer, and a nut on there...we didn't have to do anything to the thread. We screwed the bolt in with whatever remaining thereads were left in the stock welded nut, then put a lock washer and nut on it with some blue Loctite. This is a permanent fix and cost a whopping $2. I don't know what length bolt we use...we just got a few from Lowes.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Judging by that shaving, it appears if you in fact cross threaded that specific bolt. Be careful when doing tightening any bolts, and make sure not to cross thread them or you will end up like this.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I did the exact same when I tightened mine. Set the wrench at 40 lb/ft and they stripped before it clicked; The original owner may have fucked them though. In my case it was the bolts, not the nuts. I'm going to simply try new bolts first; if they don't hold I'll put nuts behind the welded ones.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score I don't think I crossthreaded them, I started them by hand and they were nice and flush when tightening them down. I think it was simply a matter of overtorquing and crushing the threads. BigRed: unfortunately for me the car only has 3500 miles on it, so there was no other retard to mess it up before hand, just myself. I wish I had waited for a nice used MS3 instead of going new, cheaper and allows me to have no qualms over modding.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Last night I checked and torque the replacement bolt I installed to @jbarone; recommended 50ftlbs. Felt like they were going to snap but they didn't. (thank fuck).
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Anything that can be rectified by adding two new nuts is pretty damn low on the Fuck-Up-O-Meter. Consider it a learning experience.
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score True, but I like things to be perfect.
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Any luck? My dumbass just did this. @MechEnix;
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(Thread Starter) | Not Ranked : 0 score Yea, just grab a new locking but and throw that sucker over the other nut. Hopefully you have enough threads. One of these days I'm going to get under there and take a grinder to the welded nut. Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Shit should have got a locking nut instead...
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Nylon locking nuts are the best damn thing ever invented for shit like this ... and red loctite I would not even consider helicoils as removing the old nut and putting a new one or even putting it over the old nut will hold much much stronger, i would not want a helicoil that can break free |
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| Not Ranked : 0 score I drilled and retapped the top one. I had a locking nut up there but it was a huge PITA to maintain for someone who lives in the Midwest with our stupid weather patterns (and salt). Also AutoX seems to make it squeak faster.
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The top left RSB bolt is restricting me to get a nut behind. Not too much room to work with and hold a nut while getting the bolt in. *Forgot to mention I stripped more than one of the welded nuts
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Tappin'
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| Not Ranked : 0 score Did you have to drop the rear springs and control arm to get enough room to get a drill in there?
__________________ '12 MS3 Black Mica w/ Tech COBB AP V3 >> AUTOTECH HPFP >> HTP 3.5" >> ATP DP (catless) >> AXLEBACK (no mufflers) >> COBB PIPING/TR6 CORE >> JBR RMM >> SSP/BUSHINGS >> RSB >> STG. 2 OCC >> HYPNOTIC TUNED: tehmadscientist & senor finkle |
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__________________ 2012 Velocity Red Mica Fast: COBB AP | Autotechs | JBR 3'' WP | CS DP | CS ABE | MDM RMM | JBR RSB | NGK Plugs | JBR SSP | ETS TMIC Rice: Aeroforce Interceptor | AEM M 35psi | Konig Milligrams 18x8.5 + 35 | Z1 Star Specs | JBR Mudflaps ![]() | |
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Thanks. I was thinking that would be the case. @jbarone;, can your brackets handle a 12mm or am I going to have to drill that out as well? | |
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| The Following User Says Thank You to JBR For This Useful Post: | Tweaek (11-18-2014) |
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