ATP 3071r swap how to , lenny gets BT fever too

[Dano]

right...right...

the temp swings here would demand adjustment...

[rodrigo]

put a spring on the dipstick. all is well

[pearl_ms3]

lenny did u use this banjo?
http://www.atpturbo.com/mm5/graphics...TG-038_450.jpg
and if you did, does it look the same as the pic?

[rodrigo]

that looks like an oil banjo. mine came with the turbo. let me see what size the turbo ones are

i cant link atp cuz they dont link.... but thats the one and here is the description.

"Special oil inlet banjo bolt for low profile use on GT Ball Bearing turbos such as GT25R/GT28R/GT28RS/GT2871R/GT3071R/GT30R/GT35R (also GT15). Works with most 12mm banjos on the market or can be used with P/N: ATP-FTG-018 12mm to -4AN male banjo fitting if used with (3) special crush washers for proper seating. Optional (not required) 3 crush washers"


by the way give me til the weekend to ship your ebc, with the tuning and shit i dont have time to pull it off the car until the weekend (which is why i wasnt hurrying on the sale) let me know if this is a problem

[pearl_ms3]

i ordered the one i posted. and the threads dont fit. so im trying to see if they sent the wrong one. cuz it dont look like the pic.

[rodrigo]

tell them u have a gt3076 and read to them the chra # and they should be able to match the banjo. the only diff between it and the oem is the head size...

[pearl_ms3]

the threads are diff also. the gt turbos use smaller threads.

[rodrigo]

call them and tell them what u have. but that banjo i listed is the one i got

[pearl_ms3]

after looking at the pic of yours. its the same as the one i posted. so they sent the wrong one. fuck guess ill have to overnight it.

[aaronc7]

I'm gonna guess 358whp for todays dyno

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[BrianZX10R]

WHO IS dynoing? certainly not lenny127

[djuosnteisn]

Originally Posted by aaronc7 I'm gonna guess 358whp for todays dyno Sent from my Droid using Tapatalk

price is right rules apply


1$

[Dano]

Three five zero


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[rodrigo]

ok heres what happened.

remember, i dont give a shit how this compares to any other dyno..nce

its a dynapack, reads about 5% higher than a dynojet. and based on guys that i know dyno here and then trap at fontana it lines up pretty decently.

here are the dyno runs with all the other shit. peak was 358hp and 378 tq dynapack which is about 340whp dynojet. lines up pretty evenly with what i had guessed









and here are the 3 AP logs belonging to it, obviously logs during daytime are a bit weaker but thats expected.

datalog5.csv

datalog6.csv

datalog7.csv


so based on all your theories of gm/s and all that bs higher numbers doesnt mean more power..... cuz the gm/s go higher on higher rpm yet power doesnt.

enjoy, flame, praise , critique....have fun. i need to go to work!!!

all in all its what i expected....except for the rpm peak... this is crucial i know where its at so i can shift the car properly when i drag race.

[djuosnteisn]

Means you probably need more timing in upper rpms.

Still, i bet your car is a blast homie. Good job.

[Ziggo]

The gm/s can only be referenced to themselves at a given rpm. I would bet that if you logged your injector PW or DC we would be able to see it maxing out.

If the mass flow rate is going up, and the afr is staying constant, a drop in power is most likley due to the fuel atomization being poor (large injector duty cycle) or not running enough timing advance.

I bet Shaun didn't like starting those logs at 3k huh?

[socks]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn Means you probably need more timing in upper rpms. Still, i bet your car is a blast homie. Good job.

I was thinking the EXACT same thing. that torque falls off FAST. doesnt look like anything is knocking. you can level out the torque with some timing (if you can get any, which you should be able to).

[kilik2]

aaron guessed it right on the head...holy shit

[socks]

bah, aarons "guess" was after lenny actually dyno'd. I got a text from lenny about 10 minutes before aarons "guess" saying what he dyno'd at

sorry. im a party pooper.

[superskaterxes]

so the question is...........



are you happy lenny?

[rodrigo]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn Means you probably need more timing in upper rpms. Still, i bet your car is a blast homie. Good job.

my concern isnt that i particularly care what rpm , i want to know if this is a reliable reading so i can now shift at the track properly.

i was shifting as late as possible but seeing this I will now shift at 6200 (ecu rpm)

Originally Posted by Ziggo The gm/s can only be referenced to themselves at a given rpm. I would bet that if you logged your injector PW or DC we would be able to see it maxing out. If the mass flow rate is going up, and the afr is staying constant, a drop in power is most likley due to the fuel atomization being poor (large injector duty cycle) or not running enough timing advance. I bet Shaun didn't like starting those logs at 3k huh?

i asked him what rpm he would slam on the gas...he said like 1500rpm... i was like u do that and ill slam your balls 1500 times.... i told him to stab it at 3k

Originally Posted by socks I was thinking the EXACT same thing. that torque falls off FAST. doesnt look like anything is knocking. you can level out the torque with some timing (if you can get any, which you should be able to).

yeah im sure i can do this or that.... but i dont see a reason to. car seems to run good and repeatable performance without having to wait another hour to step on the gas.....

im happy how it is...i need to now adjust my shifting to 6200 (ecu rpm) and go hit the track again

Originally Posted by kilik2 aaron guessed it right on the head...holy shit

he guessed it right after i texted him lol

Originally Posted by superskaterxes so the question is........... are you happy lenny?

happy? nah... i want my luv truck back with 800hp....

content? most definitely.

car comes with 263bhp stock... right now this showed 391bhp and night when it gets cool closer to 400bhp.... so 130-140bhp increase..... yeah i like it.

ill worry about big numbers when the motor is ready to make the big numbers, right now fun and longevity is most important.

[Dano]

actually didn't think I'd ever see a dyno sheet with Rigo's name on it...nice

not too shabby for an old, beaten down motor with over 80K on it that pukes dipsticks out due to tremendous blow by.

[driver311]

Lenny did you get a graph of your car over a stock turbo graph on this dyno. that would help tremendously in seeing the benefit of pulling the k04 off and slapping a 3071r on. Looks like a fun car. I wish I had one like it. LOL Good job but and tune looks pretty solid. Remember the afr will be about .5 off what the car actually sees and the rpms will read about 300rpms slow. So what you see at 5800 on the dyno is actually around 6100. That is my experience with tuning on dynos.

Ps. My suggestion is to shift at 6500. Thats what i will do also. your curve looks very similar to mine.

[rodrigo]

Originally Posted by Dano2010 actually didn't think I'd ever see a dyno sheet with Rigo's name on it...nice not too shabby for an old, beaten down motor with over 80K on it that pukes dipsticks out due to tremendous blow by.

i hate the name rigo..... i cant stand when someone tries to call me that. my name is rodrigo and i love my name.

but yeah....i think for what i got and what i have put this lil motor through..its more than a reasonable outcome.

Originally Posted by driver311 Lenny did you get a graph of your car over a stock turbo graph on this dyno. that would help tremendously in seeing the benefit of pulling the k04 off and slapping a 3071r on. Looks like a fun car. I wish I had one like it. LOL Good job but and tune looks pretty solid. Remember the afr will be about .5 off what the car actually sees and the rpms will read about 300rpms slow. So what you see at 5800 on the dyno is actually around 6100. That is my experience with tuning on dynos. Ps. My suggestion is to shift at 6500. Thats what i will do also. your curve looks very similar to mine.

nah i never dynod ko4.... i did have some logs but lost em in the crash. im not complaining.... the logs show lower output than my regular night logs due to temp change so for a daytime pull this is perfect.... i always figured i would make about 340whp during day and about 350-355 at night when its cold....

this is what i was after....of course i would love to have 400whp...shit give me 500whp.... but considering i live in reality...this was EXACTLY what i was after.

safe tune, safe car, repeatable street performance and hopefully another 50k on the odometer

by the way....thanks again guys for all your help....i have gotten a ton of help from alot of u and i am very appreciative.

[FreeFlyFreak]

Originally Posted by lenny127 i hate the name rigo..... i cant stand when someone tries to call me that. my name is rodrigo and i love my name.

So what you are saying is............. you love the Rod.

Yeah, that's what I heard.

[phillyb]

lose weight
faster trap
DO IT BIG BOI

[rodrigo]

^^ master tuner?

[djuosnteisn]

I'm just gonna plant one more seed... and then i'll leave.


Torque is what stresses motors typically (unless heat is any issue, but i'm talking about mechanical stress right now). If all out safety was your goal (i'm by no means calling your tune unsafe.... just making a point for point's sake ). You could actually reduce the peak torque down low, and focus on maintaining the torque towards redline. It would result in even more peak power... a more usable power band and fully take advantage of the upgraded turbo.

It's difficult to do on a MBC... though. So if you ever want to try out OEM boost control, and a different approach to the tune, i'd be more than happy to help you.


But for now, i vote you just kick back and enjoy for a bit

[Dano]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn It's difficult to do on a MBC... though.

oh here we go!!!

some info on what I have uncovered with my EBC tuning.

http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...g-101-a-68239/

[rodrigo]

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn I'm just gonna plant one more seed... and then i'll leave. Torque is what stresses motors typically (unless heat is any issue, but i'm talking about mechanical stress right now). If all out safety was your goal (i'm by no means calling your tune unsafe.... just making a point for point's sake ). You could actually reduce the peak torque down low, and focus on maintaining the torque towards redline. It would result in even more peak power... a more usable power band and fully take advantage of the upgraded turbo. It's difficult to do on a MBC... though. So if you ever want to try out OEM boost control, and a different approach to the tune, i'd be more than happy to help you. But for now, i vote you just kick back and enjoy for a bit

i hear you.... but i sold the grimspeed ebc and im not going back to oem bc.... i love the mbc , simple to the point. thank you for the offer..... maybe i call u when i build the motor lol

i said i was gonna be done and i am done..... this is my daily driver and all i wanted was something that could keep up with most quick cars , and it does...so for now im super good.

thank you though

Originally Posted by Dano2010 oh here we go!!! some info on what I have uncovered with my EBC tuning. http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...g-101-a-68239/

sorry i cant read.

[Dano]

Originally Posted by lenny127 sorry i cant read.

hahah

maybe you get someone to read it to you at bedtime...it'l do the trick!

[bmylez]

Sweet numbers, brah. You can definitely hang with lots of new fast cars.

I'm rooting for your motor to last 50k more, haha.

[socks]

lenny will build it before then. he cant help but click away at that mbc

[rodrigo]

the dipstick was a great wake up call.

mbc will not be adjusted.. guaranteed.

[bmylez]

I had a similar thing happen, but it's not because my motor is old, it's because I'm running Arias pistons and I have to let everything warm up and seal up. A couple days ago, I thought it was warm and boosted it a bit too much...got home and my dipstick was sticking out a couple inches. Oil all over the fans and valve cover

[socks]

i had arias pistons, and never had that issue. me thinks something else is the cause

[bmylez]

Only happens when it is cold. I routinely jam through 2nd and 3rd with no issues when the car is warm. The pistons/rings were set up to seal when the car is warm.

[driver311]

Mine has done it once or twice also. i think there is more to this. I believe its a crappy vent system. Ive done it both times when I turned the boost up past 20psi when its real cold outside. I think once peeps get past a certain mark this becomes an issue. I see it more and more on here. I think a second vent would be a great fix and probably unlock some hidden hp. The honda guys been doing it for years with some really shocking results even on na setups.

[spnkr21]

I blew myself.

I actually use a spring to hold the dipstick in. I also hooked up a Venturi pipe to my exhaust so I, hopefully, have vac even in boost. Who knows if it works.

[Dano]

ok ok so I see some guys with intakes without a VC connection put a filter on their VC vent...well there is never any vacuum there as when you have one connected to your intake.

I run right at 21PSI and have my VC vent connected to my intake and haven't blown my stick out yet * knocks on wood* . Can this help with CC ventilation?

I have a CC setup on the crank case with two PCV valves as well does any of this help out?

Originally Posted by spnkr21 I blew myself.

you limber mutherfucker!