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 Old 07-29-2011, 04:32 PM   #1
 
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Default BNR Stage III install problems!

Fuck this engine.

Can't get the stock pos out....

Trying to remove the manifold, and the 14mm bolt that is underneath the drivers side runners seems to be rounded. The wrench is near impossible to get to stay on, and I can't get a socket on it because of the oil line...

What do?



I thought I didn't have the remove the manifold to get the turbo out but I think I'm wrong...

sigh... end rant
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 Old 07-29-2011, 05:18 PM   #2
 
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It's a lot easier if u take it all out.
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 Old 07-29-2011, 05:38 PM   #3
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In before offset wrenches.....
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 Old 07-29-2011, 05:43 PM   #4
 
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take off the little pump lookin thing on the back right corner of the engine. your gonna lose a lil fluid but it gives you a straight shot at those bolts...

also a closed end wrench that rachets would be ideal
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 Old 07-29-2011, 06:24 PM   #5
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HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

sorry OP

that single bolt is what lead me to promise i would NEVER do another turbo install ever again.

wanna know what the next step is? cut the stock manifold in half at the flex joint with a sawzall and remove the pass side half. this will give you access to that bolt with an impact gun.

seriously the worst thing i have ever been through on this car.....
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 Old 07-29-2011, 10:29 PM   #6
 
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Originally Posted by superskaterxes View Post
HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

sorry OP

that single bolt is what lead me to promise i would NEVER do another turbo install ever again.

wanna know what the next step is? cut the stock manifold in half at the flex joint with a sawzall and remove the pass side half. this will give you access to that bolt with an impact gun.

seriously the worst thing i have ever been through on this car.....
for me it was the two trans bolts and transfer case bolts that are behind everything when i did the clutch. BUT i havent done a turbo install yet.

Your post is misleading. Its k04 removal problems. But i think you need to run to sears and get a flex ratchet wrench. I thought thats what people been using, theres some threads around
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 Old 08-03-2011, 05:08 PM   #7
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Originally Posted by laxplayermjd View Post
for me it was the two trans bolts and transfer case bolts that are behind everything when i did the clutch. BUT i havent done a turbo install yet.

Your post is misleading. Its k04 removal problems. But i think you need to run to sears and get a flex ratchet wrench. I thought thats what people been using, theres some threads around
i have 8 different 14mm wrenches purely for the manifold alone........


including the flex one
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 Old 07-30-2011, 06:16 AM   #8
 
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Well sorry bout that mislead but if I'm having this much trouble I'm sure putting on won't be pretty. Super I hope that isn't true I really do not want to buy another manifold

Better start looking at aftermarket options though right ?

Just steedspeed ?
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 Old 07-30-2011, 10:19 AM   #9
 
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i got my stock manny if you want to buy it.
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 Old 07-31-2011, 04:08 PM   #10
 
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I'm not cutting that sucker in half. I'm throwing in the towel, it's rounded, going to button it back up and cut my losses....
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 Old 07-31-2011, 04:15 PM   #11
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I'll give you $200 for the BNR stage III
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 Old 07-31-2011, 04:18 PM   #12
 
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take the manifold off instaed of dropping that subframe support bracket and taking it out that way?
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 Old 07-31-2011, 04:23 PM   #13
 
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Originally Posted by bewsted View Post
take the manifold off instaed of dropping that subframe support bracket and taking it out that way?
Can't get the manifold off that's the bolt that's rounded.


is there another way to get the turbo out without taking the manifold off?
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 Old 07-31-2011, 04:28 PM   #14
 
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yes.....take the downpipe off and out....drop that subframe brace (i guess thats what you call it....And it comes right out....And your new turbo should go right in.
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 Old 07-31-2011, 04:41 PM   #15
 
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How rounded off is the bolt? if you drop the turbo down to the bottom of the car then hammer a 12pt socket onto the nut you might be able to get it off.
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 Old 07-31-2011, 05:09 PM   #16
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There are tools specifically designed for rounded bolts...Sears has them...
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 Old 07-31-2011, 05:20 PM   #17
 
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take the frame apart that stops the turbo from comming out. the frame below the turbo.


take it out and boom, turbo is out, new one is in. no need to remove the manny
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 Old 08-03-2011, 04:40 PM   #18
 
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old turbo out manifold off (without cutting) wedged a 6 point socket on it and impacted off.

Lost one of the two bolts for the oil return when putting new turbo in, had to stop fml...
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 Old 08-03-2011, 04:45 PM   #19
 
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Originally Posted by zenger View Post
old turbo out manifold off (without cutting) wedged a 6 point socket on it and impacted off.

Lost one of the two bolts for the oil return when putting new turbo in, had to stop fml...
Hey, its progress!
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 Old 08-03-2011, 04:53 PM   #20
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Originally Posted by zenger View Post
Can't get the manifold off that's the bolt that's rounded.


is there another way to get the turbo out without taking the manifold off?
Yes.
Take p side drive shaft out and turbo support L bracket of. That should be all you need to do to get the turbo out after disconnecting it from manifold and down pipe.

Edit: I could be wrong about having to remove the p side drive shaft to get the turbo out. I can guarantee however you can't get an ATP 3071 in from the bottom without removing it.
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 Old 08-03-2011, 05:20 PM   #21
 
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Yeah that bolt is a bitch I did my BNR Stage 3 with out removing the mani but after the turbo was removed I took off the mani just because. You need some offset wrenches!!!! I have to buy two sets the first didnt have enough offset.
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 Old 08-03-2011, 05:20 PM   #22
 
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Post reviews once you get the turbo up and running.
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 Old 08-03-2011, 05:23 PM   #23
 
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It took me and my buddy 2 nights to remove and install everything. But I did a DP at the same time.

I didnt know you needed heatshields for the heatshields lol who decided you need 52 heatshields for you turbo lol
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 Old 08-03-2011, 05:31 PM   #24
 
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me and @I Love Brownies have got it down to about a 4hrs to do a turbo swap.

this is what happens when you have to take a turbo off someones DD because ATP decided to install the IWG backwards. I think in one weekend we took the manifold/turbo out like 4 fucking times.
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 Old 08-03-2011, 05:36 PM   #25
 
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Originally Posted by MicaBlueMS3 View Post
me and @I Love Brownies have got it down to about a 4hrs to do a turbo swap.

this is what happens when you have to take a turbo off someones DD because ATP decided to install the IWG backwards. I think in one weekend we took the manifold/turbo out like 4 fucking times.
/wrists I would
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 Old 08-03-2011, 05:38 PM   #26
 
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haha and to think, im doing another swap this weekend, but its externally gated. so a fucking men!
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 Old 08-03-2011, 06:37 PM   #27
 
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Hopefully you get that BNR up and running soon, want to see how she rips.
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 Old 08-03-2011, 06:44 PM   #28
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Glad to hear you got it going man. Congrats. Get it on and tuned!
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 Old 08-04-2011, 08:31 PM   #29
 
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all lines ran and hooked up; waiting on a gasket and it'll be all buttoned up tomorrow.

Is it a big deal not to put this turbo bracket back in? I figure the Manifold is enough support for a cast iron manifold?
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 Old 08-04-2011, 08:42 PM   #30
 
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Use the bracket if at all possible,
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 Old 08-04-2011, 09:02 PM   #31
 
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Originally Posted by Bucker View Post
Use the bracket if at all possible,
dang didn't want to hear that; guess I'll put it in tomorrow
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 Old 08-05-2011, 10:58 AM   #32
 
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Yea you really want that turbo support bracket in there.
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 Old 08-05-2011, 11:05 AM   #33
 
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meh that stock manifold isnt going to crack but it wont hurt .


in all honesty like @MicaBlueMS3 said its fairly easy after the first time. plus my build this weekend we have access to a lift so it should be a cake walk in the park.
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 Old 08-05-2011, 01:27 PM   #34
 
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the only bolt thats a bitch is the one located all the way to the right underneath, next to the CDFP.
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 Old 08-05-2011, 10:16 PM   #35
 
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turbo in and running, low boost haven't cranked it up yet only 16#.

Didn't add coolant after pegged the coolant gauge 244*
On the small drive I took it on had an overwhelming smell of clutch after every wot pass

Guess more mods...
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 Old 08-06-2011, 07:20 AM   #36
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lol suck. well, at least it's running now man.
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 Old 08-06-2011, 01:45 PM   #37
 
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hitting 15 psi and feels about the same as the k04 at 18 psi

need to crank the mbc up
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 Old 08-09-2011, 12:04 PM   #38
 
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Feels pretty beast hit 20 PSI for a bit then tapers to 19 and 18; upped it a bit more and it can't hold 21 or 22 for more than a few tenths of a second before it drops. So I've just backed it off to 20, BPV leaking past 20#?
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 Old 08-09-2011, 06:48 PM   #39
 
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Originally Posted by zenger View Post
Feels pretty beast hit 20 PSI for a bit then tapers to 19 and 18; upped it a bit more and it can't hold 21 or 22 for more than a few tenths of a second before it drops. So I've just backed it off to 20, BPV leaking past 20#?
If you ask Forzda he may be able to tell you what's up.
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 Old 08-09-2011, 06:38 PM   #40
 
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could be leaking. have any logs?

i wonder if your hitting throttle closure limit? then again with a mbc it may not matter.
im sure you can run 20psi to redline no problem on that turbo without pushing it.

hows that ebay downpipe, i want one
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