Cheaps gtx3076/ewg

[broda]

Originally Posted by Cheapspeed So figured it wouldn't be hard to swap out. Vband bolt and nut were seized but loose, and I realized I must've put it on when the downpipe was loose or off. Burned through 2 bandsaw blades trying to cut a 3/16" Allen key and failed. If it was just a little shorter I'd fit it up beside the DP. But as I was thinking about it in my despair lying there on the ground for what seemed like forever, I don't think I'd be able to tighten it once the dump pipe was on and in the way. These cars are fun to mod. But not to maintain once modded.

Trying to mess with the EWG while the downpipe is on is the biggest pain in the ass ever. I had to mess with it twice in about a week timespan and it took me so much longer than I was anticipating.

[redneck4Christ]

Originally Posted by Cheapspeed Alright, so I decided not to tackle this this weekend because I don't have any spare studs/nuts on hand and I didn't want to be stuck waiting on parts after I loosen the downpipe. ...

I think Aaron has some he is trying to sell on the local FB. You might hit him up?

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by redneck4Christ I think Aaron has some he is trying to sell on the local FB. You might hit him up?

Damn, too late just dropped $20 on edgeautosport.

[Cheapspeed]

Good news! Did NOT have to take the DP off! I had an epiphany after I bought some tools from sears. Got under and put a 3/16", 1/4" bit in the hex bolt that was facing the DP, then got a tiny 1/4" wrench I just bought and then put a tiny 5/16" wrench on the nut and they came right off.

Decided not to wrap the dump tube this time because I have a theory it came undone last time and wrapped around the axel. I might get it ceramic coated at a later.

I also flipped the bolt and nut around to make it easier next time.

Bit ratchets are awesome.

[Cheapspeed]

I think I've narrowed it down to a spun bearing. Probably got oil starved as it's been consuming oil like crazy lately. Gunned it on an on-ramp and when I let off I heard a loud knocking. Didn't feel any vibration in the peddle. When it idles, it sounds find, but when I rev the engine a little the knocking comes back.

[MD1032]

If you're consuming a lot of oil, it's very likely rings, ringlands, bores out of round, something of that nature. I would say probably ringlands based on the huge turbo you're running. I agree that additionally it sounds like you might have a rod bearing starting to go out. Time to get another engine lined up ASAP. Don't blow up your core.

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by MD1032 If you're consuming a lot of oil, it's very likely rings, ringlands, bores out of round, something of that nature. I would say probably ringlands based on the huge turbo you're running. I agree that additionally it sounds like you might have a rod bearing starting to go out. Time to get another engine lined up ASAP. Don't blow up your core.

Car is parked. Considering options now. FWD is the biggest negative on this car so I'm undecided on the build.

[MD1032]

If you really hate FWD that much, put a stock motor and a K04 in it, part out, and sell. Or you can just put another stock motor in it and dial back the power to keep the stock motor happy. Or you can trade your Garrett for something smaller. Many options here without going for some stupid expensive build. I don't know why so many people on this forum have it set in their minds that blowing a stock engine means they have to bankrupt themselves buying a built motor that has a 50% chance of taking a shit within 50k miles.

[everton99]

Originally Posted by MD1032 If you really hate FWD that much, put a stock motor and a K04 in it, part out, and sell. Or you can just put another stock motor in it and dial back the power to keep the stock motor happy. Or you can trade your Garrett for something smaller. Many options here without going for some stupid expensive build. I don't know why so many people on this forum have it set in their minds that blowing a stock engine means they have to bankrupt themselves buying a built motor that has a 50% chance of taking a shit within 50k miles.

I agree. When I blew my engine I thought I'd build one, but seeing as how it's going to be 15K easy, I really can't bring myself to do it. I still owe 16K on the car and can't justify spending just as much to put into the car. I'd considered doing something mild like just some better rods and 4032 pistons, but even then I couldn't justify it. My engine blew because I didn't fix a problem I knew about. Lesson learned the expensive way.


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[mituc]

FWD FTW!

[impossible]

I love my FWD from a roll lmao

[Cheapspeed]

I've been commuting a very short distance lately so I haven't been able to take advantage of the top end power it made. Commuting on the highway is where it shined and I really loved driving it then.

[kevdog]

YouTube Short

YouTube Short

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by kevdog http://youtu.be/Bb5hgEoOaJk

I do love driving a sleeper with an external wastegate. Won't get the same satisfaction driving typical sports cars.

[redneck4Christ]

Parts for a 2007 Mazda CX7 w/ 2.3L turbo
2007 MAZDA CX7 - FOR PARTS
2007 MAZDA CX7

Possible donor engines?
CX7-turbo with a good engines.
Not mine

Oooorrr
89 mazda 323 awd turbo
turbo awd 323

[Cheapspeed]

@mituc; @impossible; @MD1032; @Ziggo; @sheston; So here is my first estimate on a build from Kozmic in Houston, TX.

Please pick apart or tag anybody that can help.

H Squared Stage 3 Short block 3359.00
-Wiseco Piston coated tops and skirts
-Clevite bearings coated
-ARP mainstuds
-K1 rods
BSD Delete, Baffle (necessary?)
VVT (can mine be reused?)

Bunch of other stuff like gasket kit, oil pump, etc.

Their grand total was $8600 installed.

If I'm not sticking with a stock block I really don't feel the need to make over 500whp. Whatever the GTX3076 and 5th port can get me would be okay with me.

[Djohns]

@WetzMS3; may be an option for you. He's a good guy, and knows what he's doing.

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by Djohns @WetzMS3; may be an option for you. He's a good guy, and knows what he's doing.

There was a guy out of San Antonio that builds motors, but said he doesn't usually install them. Not doubting anybody's abilities but I'm really not interested in installing myself because I'm just not that cool and want to get this car rolling again by the end of this year, hopefully sooner so it doesn't start to rust in the driveway.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Cheapspeed If I'm not sticking with a stock block I really don't feel the need to make over 500whp. Whatever the GTX3076 and 5th port can get me would be okay with me.

5th port will probably top out at around that figure depending on the fuel you're using, the only thing I'm not sure about is deleting the BS on an otherwise pristine engine.
Other than that, given the fact that you're getting a complete engine the price sounds about right.

[MD1032]

Originally Posted by Cheapspeed @mituc; @impossible; @MD1032; @Ziggo; @sheston; So here is my first estimate on a build from Kozmic in Houston, TX. Please pick apart or tag anybody that can help. H Squared Stage 3 Short block 3359.00 -Wiseco Piston coated tops and skirts -Clevite bearings coated -ARP mainstuds -K1 rods BSD Delete, Baffle (necessary?) VVT (can mine be reused?) Bunch of other stuff like gasket kit, oil pump, etc. Their grand total was $8600 installed. If I'm not sticking with a stock block I really don't feel the need to make over 500whp. Whatever the GTX3076 and 5th port can get me would be okay with me.

New OEM VVT is the way to go. $8600 is pretty steep, especially for a build utilizing K1 rods. I would use a different rod than that. Does that price include a core charge or something?

I would suggest OEM main studs, head gasket, for your goals, over the ARP, since you will be <500 whp.

Keep the balance shafts. Your engine will vibrate much less. Just make sure the installation is done properly.

Get a quote from Wetz and EBtec as well. Really I don't like that build list honestly. It doesn't even say which wiseco pistons they're using and I haven't seen any recently that have coated tops, so they might be something custom and overpriced.

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by MD1032 New OEM VVT is the way to go. $8600 is pretty steep, especially for a build utilizing K1 rods. I would use a different rod than that. Does that price include a core charge or something? I would suggest OEM main studs, head gasket, for your goals, over the ARP, since you will be <500 whp. Keep the balance shafts. Your engine will vibrate much less. Just make sure the installation is done properly. Get a quote from Wetz and EBtec as well. Really I don't like that build list honestly. It doesn't even say which wiseco pistons they're using and I haven't seen any recently that have coated tops, so they might be something custom and overpriced.

I'm trying to avoid being overbuilt. Eb-tec was beginning a quote for a 600hp build but I'm really not interested in that. Maybe there's just no money in low HP builds like what I have in my mind.

[mituc]

Originally Posted by Cheapspeed I'm trying to avoid being overbuilt. Eb-tec was beginning a quote for a 600hp build but I'm really not interested in that. Maybe there's just no money in low HP builds like what I have in my mind.

The moment you put in good rods and pistons, your short block will be able to handle at least 500HP but usually 600-700.
On the other hand for a daily driven car it doesn't make sense to have huge turbos with complicated injection systems and an overall complicated setup which requires hard to get fuel mixes, which will eventually result in a build around 450-550hp (because of the manifolds, turbos, fuelling system(s), and so on). But the short block itself will hold quite a lot of power.

So instead of spending $300 on a set of K1s spend $50-60 more on a set of Manley. Same for the pistons, choose wise depending on how you're going to use the car. If it's a daily you should seriously consider a 4032 piston, even if quite a lot of builds using various breeds of 2618 allow pistons do perfectly well with 0 piston slap in cold weather, awesome compression despite the high number of miles, and so on. Usually the 4032 pistons have like 80-90% of the strength of a 2618 piston. So instead of 650-700 you will have to stop at like 600 which is already like 150hp over the "more than enough for a daily driven FWD car" mark.

Later edit: for the head studs don't go cheap/affordable. Go straight for either the L19 or better the CA625+.

[WetzMS3]

OEM head bolts will handle 500whp just fine.

[shaneski]

I'd go with the Manley pistons, they have some long skirts and beefy ring lands, i have had them in mine for near 2 years and 30,000 miles, daily driven with lot's of short trips and there is zero slap.

[impossible]

Buddy of mine recommended this shop in El Paso, TX who builds Speeds and all kinds of other shit. As you can see his page photo is a MS3 with DISI block. I definitely recommend Manley H Beam and Manley Platinum Series pistons over the other combo Kozmic recommended. I'm currently in the process of pulling my motor but will be having Broken Wrench or my buddy Gino do it (who's built a few DISI's with success and is extremely detailed) since they are atleast in Texas and I can save on shipping etc.
https://www.facebook.com/BrokenWrenc...=br_tf&qsefr=1

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by impossible Buddy of mine recommended this shop in El Paso, TX who builds Speeds and all kinds of other shit. As you can see his page photo is a MS3 with DISI block. I definitely recommend Manley H Beam and Manley Platinum Series pistons over the other combo Kozmic recommended. I'm currently in the process of pulling my motor but will be having Broken Wrench or my buddy Gino do it (who's built a few DISI's with success and is extremely detailed) since they are atleast in Texas and I can save on shipping etc. https://www.facebook.com/BrokenWrenc...=br_tf&qsefr=1

Sucks there ain't a reputable builder here in Dallas area, I'll keep them in mind. I'm a little hesitant about kozmic based off their initial quote, but I'm sent them your suggestions.

[Cheapspeed]

Alright so this is starting to drive me mad.

I came to the conclusion that I was going to just put in a remanned long block from edge since I've been overall happy with the performance the stock motor can achieve, and figured I could save a little money for things that could help the new motor last longer, PVC plate/vented catch can, meth injection for cooling and cleaning intake valves, 5th port, and a guardian angel.

Then somebody here told me the edge motors are from gearhead engines. Then I read that they don't exactly have a stellar track record. So just as I was lining up an installer I'm stuck again on what makes the most sense (besides just parting out and scrapping the car altogether). I don't want to spend nearly as much money on an otherwise stock motor and it end up being a dud. Anybody know of anyone that has installed the edge motor with good results?
@EdgeAutosport.com;

[El Beaner]

Originally Posted by Cheapspeed Alright so this is starting to drive me mad. I came to the conclusion that I was going to just put in a remanned long block from edge since I've been overall happy with the performance the stock motor can achieve, and figured I could save a little money for things that could help the new motor last longer, PVC plate/vented catch can, meth injection for cooling and cleaning intake valves, 5th port, and a guardian angel. Then somebody here told me the edge motors are from gearhead engines. Then I read that they don't exactly have a stellar track record. So just as I was lining up an installer I'm stuck again on what makes the most sense (besides just parting out and scrapping the car altogether). I don't want to spend nearly as much money on an otherwise stock motor and it end up being a dud. Anybody know of anyone that has installed the edge motor with good results? @EdgeAutosport.com;

Find out where @Sumosub; gets his motors from. I think he has done a couple of swaps

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by El Beaner Find out where @Sumosub; gets his motors from. I think he has done a couple of swaps

If he's done a "couple" I don't think I care to know because I'm pretty positive they were stock motors.

[El Beaner]

Originally Posted by Cheapspeed If he's done a "couple" I don't think I care to know because I'm pretty positive they were stock motors.

They were stock but you could always see the cost and if reasonable, pick one up to build while you still gingerly drive your speed(if it's still drivable)

Otherwise, Ben Williams might have a short or long block you could pick up to start your build and then once ready you could just sell your current one to someone else

[everton99]

Originally Posted by El Beaner They were stock but you could always see the cost and if reasonable, pick one up to build while you still gingerly drive your speed(if it's still drivable) Otherwise, Ben Williams might have a short or long block you could pick up to start your build and then once ready you could just sell your current one to someone else

I'm looking at Speed6s still. If I find a cheap enough one I'll just get it and make it my DD until I decide what I want to do with my 3.


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[deltapsik0]

Originally Posted by impossible Buddy of mine recommended this shop in El Paso, TX who builds Speeds and all kinds of other shit. As you can see his page photo is a MS3 with DISI block. I definitely recommend Manley H Beam and Manley Platinum Series pistons over the other combo Kozmic recommended. I'm currently in the process of pulling my motor but will be having Broken Wrench or my buddy Gino do it (who's built a few DISI's with success and is extremely detailed) since they are atleast in Texas and I can save on shipping etc. https://www.facebook.com/BrokenWrenc...=br_tf&qsefr=1

Your car isn't even running? Sounds like a shit build from a shit owner man.. what's the issue ?


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[Cheapspeed]

Update. Kool Katz Garage in Dallas is taking care of my build. The owner and one of his employees are Speed owners and have built several the past few months. Turbo needs to be rebuilt though so gotta figure that out.

[Djohns]

I've heard turboXS in Iowa? Is good with rebuilding Garrett turbos.

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by Djohns I've heard turboXS in Iowa? Is good with rebuilding Garrett turbos.

Forced Performance is around the corner from me and Majestic Turbo in Dallas also rebuilds though they're more focused on diesels.

[El Beaner]

Originally Posted by Cheapspeed Update. Kool Katz Garage in Dallas is taking care of my build. The owner and one of his employees are Speed owners and have built several the past few months. Turbo needs to be rebuilt though so gotta figure that out.

They're taking care of my clutch work I'm about to have done. My throw out bearing is failing so gonna get it replaced with new OEM(Luk clutch) + Fidanza flywheel

[impossible]

Originally Posted by deltapsik0 Your car isn't even running? Sounds like a shit build from a shit owner man.. what's the issue ? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Still sore from this thread about your 290whp 30r shit shop build huh lmao. Paid for a little blue name, thats cute

2008 MS3 Blows Cock, Shitty Shop Does Shitty Work Resulting in Shitty Numbers aka The I Ignored MSF Clusterfuck

[El Beaner]

Originally Posted by impossible Still sore from this thread about your 290whp 30r shit shop build huh lmao. Paid for a little blue name, thats cute 2008 MS3 Blows Cock, Shitty Shop Does Shitty Work Resulting in Shitty Numbers aka The I Ignored MSF Clusterfuck

Holy fucking shit

[redneck4Christ]

@Cheapspeed
Any updates?

[Cheapspeed]

Originally Posted by redneck4Christ @Cheapspeed Any updates?

Car is still down. Shop said they'll cover it, but not likely going to be within the 2 month time frame they initially gave me.

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