Custom 3.5" Intake w/maf to turbo

[Nitr0EngiE]

Just had this fabbed yesterday with ecu holder and power block holder

3.5" vibrant from filter to turbo, the maf is cp-e bt maf housing, and 6" -> 3.5" velocity stack with air straightener in it, 6" k and n filter


Link to all images:

ImageShack Album - 14 images

[Chimmike]

holy blue stuff batman. looks good mango

[BigRed06]

looks nice great job

[Nitr0EngiE]

I was impressed by the rustolium spray can paint compared to my pc valve cover the spray paint looks nicer however we all know it wont likely last as long as pc

[Chimmike]

Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE I was impressed by the rustolium spray can paint compared to my pc valve cover the spray paint looks nicer however we all know it wont likely last as long as pc

Good prep and the rustoleum will last forever.

[mason]

hows the cpe 2.25 IC piping working out?

[Nitr0EngiE]

Originally Posted by mason hows the cpe 2.25 IC piping working out?

I hate it i cant wait to ditch it, I am gonna keep the core and go 2.5" custom and reverse the direction to clear up the right side of engine bay

[TWOptSL0W]

i am erect

[mason]

i did the same

[Tabasco69]

I made a enclosure for the ecm, Ilike the intake looks good but I would hate to have my harness exposed.

[Nitr0EngiE]

lol man this car is beast now, after a couple tunes to maf to get AFR dialed in i finally really went WOT after 4 months

I am seeing about 27+ psi of boost at 11.6 afr and the car is pulling like a beast, we actually thought the cops were after us, i saw some car in the rear view driving hella fast and split the traffic really fast and cut them off and I usually only see cops do that or dumb kids who think they can catch me, but we had jsut passed a cop parked on the side of the road(even tho we were not speeding when we passed him i thought he heard my EWG after passing him when i hit it) so we turn the lights off and go for it and gone we went. I was not planning on topping out the car because we were still tuning it but it took every bit of the gas pedal up to 150 no problems worst knock was .7 for a mili second

the only bad thing is now after we pulled overi could smell a new smell at first it smelled like clutch we pop the hood and oil is shooting out my dipstick lol its all over my hood, intake mani, exh manifold I cant go WOT anymore =( i gotta vent the block " the appropriate way" lol not blowing it up. I think superskates had this issue with high boost and drilled some holes in VC baffle vent. I will decide how to handle this later.

Overall I am happy besides the oil squirting the car ran like a beast was pulling so hard at 150 it was hard to hold it strait with torque steer

[jracer]

Originally Posted by Nitr0EngiE lol man this car is beast now, after a couple tunes to maf to get AFR dialed in i finally really went WOT after 4 months I am seeing about 27+ psi of boost at 11.6 afr and the car is pulling like a beast, we actually thought the cops were after us, i saw some car in the rear view driving hella fast and split the traffic really fast and cut them off and I usually only see cops do that or dumb kids who think they can catch me, but we had jsut passed a cop parked on the side of the road(even tho we were not speeding when we passed him i thought he heard my EWG after passing him when i hit it) so we turn the lights off and go for it and gone we went. I was not planning on topping out the car because we were still tuning it but it took every bit of the gas pedal up to 150 no problems worst knock was .7 for a mili second the only bad thing is now after we pulled overi could smell a new smell at first it smelled like clutch we pop the hood and oil is shooting out my dipstick lol its all over my hood, intake mani, exh manifold I cant go WOT anymore =( i gotta vent the block " the appropriate way" lol not blowing it up. I think superskates had this issue with high boost and drilled some holes in VC baffle vent. I will decide how to handle this later. Overall I am happy besides the oil squirting the car ran like a beast was pulling so hard at 150 it was hard to hold it strait with torque steer

Glad you got it running !

[bmylez]

What kind of PCV setup are you running? I suggest at this point you just make a Venturi setup. That should eliminate a lot of crankcase pressure.

[Tabasco69]

Run double valve cover ports to a vented occ...... it will have no venting issues.

The vent system from the block to the im stops venting under boost because of the one way check so the only way the engine can vent under boost is thru the valve cover.

Give the valve cover 2 ports, one will pull air in and the other will push it out.....equalize and relieve any back pressure.

Buy a nice shiny -an bulkhead fitting, couple of bonded washers, a little bit of hose and drill a hole in the valve cover=second port

[Nitr0EngiE]

yah my friend suggested i block port on back of IM which i have going to catch can and let can vent from block ato atmosphere and i was gonnna drill baffle under VC on the existing port and vent it to atmo and unhook it from new intake, i can plug intake.

then later on I am gonna see if there is a plug in the back of the block that can be removed to put a fitting to vent it more.

the easiest would be remove pcv plate and replace with metal plate with a giant port on it. but im not removing IM to do it right ...

[Tabasco69]

You can just leave the bottom vent system alone, not change a thing, are you already running a occ to prevent oil slop from reaching the im then you are gold....under vacuum state, but when there is positve pressure in the im the check valve closes....that is the reason I 'm suggesting the second port on the valve cover, I used to run that vent back into the inlet pipe like you current have but I found small amount of oil in the compressor housing and charge pipe.
Later I installed a filtered breather to the valve cover bung, but when I had the car on a dyno I got to see first hand what was going on, oil would mist out of the breather filter under boost conditions....once that filter gets oil soaked you run the posssibility of having oil drip....right below it is the exhaust manifold, this creates the hazzard of a possible oil fire.....these are some of the reason I suggest double venting the valve cover to a vented occ, there are oil port that run throughout the engine, some are pressurized that send oil and others are unpressurized drain back ports where the oil travels back to the oil pan.....venting from the head is viable. This will let the engine's crankcase breathe unrestricted.

[bmylez]

Don't drill a hole in the VC plate directly under where the vent port is. I did it and I was spewing oil all over the fuckin place. You just need to drill a hole in the top of the VC on the passenger side and it will help a lot.

You want to keep the crankcase hooked up to the intake manifold if you can so you can continue pulling vacuum on it.

[Tabasco69]

Well, yeah good point, you have to put a little bit of thought into it , you just don't randomly drill a hole anywhere....ideally some kind of baffle so oil just can't flow out unrestricted.....GOOD point once again

[bmylez]

Not sure if that was sarcasm, but there is a thread on here where multiple people did that and said "no problem" then I went and did it and spewed oil.

The OP posted this: "i was gonnna drill baffle under VC on the existing port and vent it to atmo and unhook it from new intake, i can plug intake".

Doesn't that sound EXACTLY like what I told him not to do? But yeah, keep up with your Smarter-Than-You attitude.

[Nitr0EngiE]

well i was not going blind someone has already done it without issues I was gonna look up that info he had pics

the ideas me and my buddy are kicking around were increasing flow on vc port, venting my can from crank and blocking IM port so it wont block pcv flow under boost instead boost will push open pcv and it will vent to atmo

and we are looking for another place to add a new big port but I dont want to drill and weld my pced valve cover. my buddy is telling me all motors got huge caps in the block one for water passages and another for oil and if the oil one is accessible say on back of block i could remove plug and install a fitting. and vent it there too, basically i want to get away from vacuuming the block all together and have enough crank venting without it big ports to vented can.

eventually the best outcome would take off IM and get to pcv and take the whole plastic plate bs off and replace with a metal plate with giant 1/2" port or 2 and run it to a vented can

my friend says venting the block more will help with Horse power because the pressure wont be fighting the pistons on down stroke.

Edit: No bullshit I am trying to figure how i can put a filter where oil filler is and baffle the oil from cam gears that would be a BEAST vent too bad its so close to chain with oil shooting at it

[Tabasco69]

you talking about something like this? it is inttended to be used with the cosworth dry sump system....the only thing I don't like about open venting the crankcase is the question exactly how much crap is it going to blow out down there you know.

Your buddy is right about gaining power by reducing crankcase windage....other things like a good windage tray and crank scraper help also.

Not to use the H word among others such as evo and sti, but a lot of high horsepower engines get away with venting only from their valve cover

[Nitr0EngiE]

yah something like that but witha 1/2" hose barb or 2

my windage tray is the ptp tray and has all the holes where the grating is

[bmylez]

So you want this? Ford Duratec & Mazda MZR PCV Block-Off Plate

[Nitr0EngiE]

yah exactly but maybe with an additional port

[bmylez]

Well, you can always use a tap set and put the hole wherever you want . Only thing is, that plate has no baffle in it. I already asked Top Speed about making a baffle and they said oil spewing everywhere wouldn't be a problem...I think that's only the case on the Focus, though.

[Nitr0EngiE]

well the second hole would goto bottom of vented can so oil can drain back into crankcase, and the other port at top of can plus another one going from VC to top of can so it can also drain into crank or maybe even 2 from vc so 3 in at top and 1 down at bottom with biggest filter i can fit on top

@Tabasco69

if you know maybe you can advise on this, what makes a windage tray good i have the ptp one with the kind of mesh shape, then there is the f2 style wher there aint really many ports its more of a solid plate design whats best.

and also i never heard of a crank scraper on this motor as of yet, as far as anyone adding one i mean

[Tomas]

crank scraper = cheese grater zip tied to con rods?

[Tabasco69]

Flat piece of metal or what I use is 1/8" skivved virgin teflon (good for 500degrees and impervious to petrolium byproducts+ it is soft yet it is rigid and won't damage anything) that clears the profile of the enitire bottom portion of the rotating assembly, clearance of about 1/16-1/8", oil wicks onto it's surface and drop to the windage tray and rest. It is usually placed between the block and oil pan flange/lip...I made a rigid mounting point to the ss windage tray

[Nitr0EngiE]

i was asking whats difference between windage that has no holes in top of it vs the solid design

[Tabasco69]

Just a little more information, the way our oil drain back into the pan was intentionally made to run down the sides of the block away from the crankshaft, this was a anti windage step taken by the OE, also the girdle acts as a semi crank scraper already, as by design.

[Nitr0EngiE]

Check out my Virtual dyno

Battle my Virtual Dyno

[bmylez]

I see you cheatin, using 3800 as your weight . Bump it down to 3300 and see what you get.

[Nitr0EngiE]

thats not cheating i weigh 300 and my friend weighs 380 who was with me on all those pulls not to mention 4 cubic foot subwoofer box with 2 12" jl subs, 2 amps, all the wiring + a full to brim tool box, 24 pack of water, a big ass plastic crate pull of parts and shit and more tools and another box with more parts in it ....... you starting to catch the drift ?

it is honestly prolly over 3800

[bmylez]

Damn, where do you have room to put all that shit? haha. Between my 10" sub box laying flat and my meth tank, I can only fit a little in my hatch.

Sounds like you are closer to 4k lbs, so it looks like the car is makin some powah.

Are you logging injector duty cycle? You're probably well over 100% on your 513 pull, haha.

[Nitr0EngiE]

My trunk is completely full i got the battery back there, the meth 1 gallon mounted on the wall and the sub literally takes up the entire rest of it and the 2 amps mounted on backs of back seat all this is in trunk, and i never removed spare tire which i should because ill never use it i always just call a tow truck

and INJ its logged, and no it was actually less because the air was denser and the MAF was not picking up the right reading of air because its not tuned for such cold weather and also WOT the car does not adjust fuel so my duty cycle did not hit 100% untill last 2 lines of data log thats why i was at 12.5 AFR vs my normal tunes 11.6 area almost a whole point due to colder air and more boost.

[Nitr0EngiE]

Now I find out what the Clunking noise is when i engine brake or hit brakes with car in gear or hit reverse the Tri pod in my driver side axle is about to explode the boot has a gash and is losing all the grease and when its gone the axle is gonna kaplooot

[dougefresh_]

Way late to the party. Nice build! I was launching the dipstick the minute I went BT, and ended up copying @SilverDemon's venturi set up. Not only did it work flawlessly, but the breather filter on the valve cover was brand spanking new after 5K miles. Skates filter gets clogged up with oil and it has to be replaced or cleaned every oil change. His works as well, but just wanted to point that out for ya.

Sorry I woulda chimed in earlier, but I haven't popped in this section in awhile. Just something to consider if you haven't committed. It's part "b" here http://www.mazdaspeedforum.org/forum/foru...-set-up-83614/

How much timing are you running up top?

[Nitr0EngiE]

im at 8 timing at redline on my map, i still get knock sometimes and i can never tell if its random or true knock some pulls theres no knock and i seen others with 2.5, and its the worst in lower gears but rolling 5th and 6th no knock ???

aint there usually knock in the higher load gears ?

[bmylez]

Have you adjusted your knock sensor sensitivity? If not, I think cld12pk2go posted a sweet table of values for it that will make it way less picky.

[Nitr0EngiE]

No I am afraid to do that on my own, but im spraying enough meth to not be knocking, but I dont know .... I dont got enough experience to know when its safe or not. I figure if i go get dyno tune then they can turn the sensor off ? and they should know if its knocking.

I wont mind trying milder settings if someones using it.

@cld12pk2go