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 Old 06-23-2011, 04:06 AM   #1
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Originally Posted by SilverDemon View Post
So....your test was limited to blowing through the valve with your mouth? OK, buddy.. I understand now. I was wrong, all of the testing, and validation I done was a total waste, since you blew through it with your mouth.

You are also mixing up the facts of my test with what you used with what I tested, I never once said I tested the OEM. I tested the Napa PCV that COBB wanted to use.
I'm in a better mood and would like to apologize. All the discussions between several people of not using stock PCV's, using Moroso, Napa PCV's and then both Doug and I getting shitty ones, I just got pissed. I went back and read your thread again and it is good testing. I stand by the Moroso valves being questionable though. I ordered two Jeg's valve to do some modified testing of my own. Still looking for an ideal setup myself. Again, I apologize.
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 Old 06-23-2011, 05:28 AM   #2
 
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Hey man... it's all good, no worries, and thanks.

I will completely agree that if the said moroso part is of questionable, don't use it, and let Jegs know. Moroso could have went to another country for production since my original testing was done, and the quality control probably went to shit, or I just got lucky on the valves I purchased.

I thank you for wanting to improve on my original design, the more testing between different vehicles, and setups will give people more options in the long run to help combat the crankcase pressure problems. Once you have the set up where you want it, let us know how goes, and what you find.
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 Old 06-23-2011, 07:01 AM   #3
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ok my apologies as well to joel as i yanked my moroso CV last night and that shit leaked like a siv under any pressure from my compressor. i tested from 15-100 PSI and it leaked the whole way. i diddent measure exactly how much it leaked but i would say 5-10 psi easy from holding my finger on the end. im going to seek a better solution at this point.
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 Old 06-23-2011, 08:17 AM   #4
 
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Originally Posted by superskaterxes View Post
ok my apologies as well to joel as i yanked my moroso CV last night and that shit leaked like a siv under any pressure from my compressor. i tested from 15-100 PSI and it leaked the whole way. i diddent measure exactly how much it leaked but i would say 5-10 psi easy from holding my finger on the end. im going to seek a better solution at this point.
Well, shit!! This is getting me angry about these fucked up valves....

How many miles do you have on the valve skate? Has your dip stick popped out? I know you were just on the dyno the other day.

I have about 18,000 on mine, and I bet that mine is bleeding by as well.

I will have to hook the gauge back up to the can again and see if anything funny is going on. I will be in that area of th car next week, so I will pull it out and check the valve itself.
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 Old 06-23-2011, 08:48 AM   #5
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so let me break it down and correct me if I am wrong cuz I am wanting to revamp my evac system and have read both SS and SDs threads on the subject as well as all the recent posts here.

3 peeps now, have the Moroso CV's that apparently are not worth a damn?

Anthony
Doug
Joel
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 Old 06-23-2011, 09:27 AM   #6
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Originally Posted by SilverDemon View Post
Well, shit!! This is getting me angry about these fucked up valves....

How many miles do you have on the valve skate? Has your dip stick popped out? I know you were just on the dyno the other day.

I have about 18,000 on mine, and I bet that mine is bleeding by as well.

I will have to hook the gauge back up to the can again and see if anything funny is going on. I will be in that area of th car next week, so I will pull it out and check the valve itself.
hmmm i prob have close to 10k on it. i havent had one episode of DS popping since either. i have however noticed a ton of oil on my VC breather filter, which is due in part to the holes drilled in the baffle directly below it but it just seemed excessive. this could be due to some positive CC pressure that IS escaping but pushing a buncha oil with it.

i cant find any specs on this thing on jegs but i could have sworn i remember reading some 100psi rating for it somewhere.

Originally Posted by SilverDemon View Post
I have been looking this morning on which check valve would better suited for the task....Then I saw something in one of the spec sheets to the valve, methanol safe. The material that seals the valve will have to be compatable with methanol (at least for you guys running meth, I will be running it shortly as well). That might explain why Skates valve has failed, but that does not explain why 2 or 3 people have had faulty ones right out of the package......the search will continue
do you really think the meth will affect it that much? its not like the meth-mixed air will be flowing past the seal all the time.

i should also note im running a fully metal PCV valve from a 300zx. i dont think ive ever tested the holding pressure from that but i sure will when i get home today haha.
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 Old 06-23-2011, 09:30 AM   #7
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Originally Posted by i8urgti View Post
i love you and hate you for making this thread doug
Dooooooo eeeeeeeeet
do et do et do et do et

I have one kit i'm finishing up soon, and then i'm gonna build like 3-4 more probably, and just set them off to the side for whoever wants them.


Top mount is fucking dope.
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 Old 06-23-2011, 10:57 AM   #8
 
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
Dooooooo eeeeeeeeet
do et do et do et do et

I have one kit i'm finishing up soon, and then i'm gonna build like 3-4 more probably, and just set them off to the side for whoever wants them.


Top mount is fucking dope.
i just dropped an application for another part time job, i need this
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 Old 06-23-2011, 08:50 AM   #9
 
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That's what it's looking like.......
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 Old 06-23-2011, 08:59 AM   #10
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Well Scott, looks like you have something else to develope

fak how hard is it to create a check valve that actually checks...
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 Old 06-23-2011, 09:03 AM   #11
 
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Originally Posted by Dano2010 View Post
Well Scott, looks like you have something else to develope

fak how hard is it to create a check valve that actually checks...
put a check mark on it?
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 Old 06-23-2011, 09:21 AM   #12
 
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i love you and hate you for making this thread doug
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 Old 06-23-2011, 09:22 AM   #13
 
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I have been looking this morning on which check valve would better suited for the task....Then I saw something in one of the spec sheets to the valve, methanol safe. The material that seals the valve will have to be compatable with methanol (at least for you guys running meth, I will be running it shortly as well). That might explain why Skates valve has failed, but that does not explain why 2 or 3 people have had faulty ones right out of the package......the search will continue
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A well regulated Militia, being necessary to the security of a free State, the
right of the people to keep and bear Arms, shall not be infringed.


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 Old 06-23-2011, 09:32 AM   #14
 
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hmmm.... shot in the dark about the idea of meth... I am not too sure how much acutal meth would make it's way to the valve.....but grainger might have something that looks promising.

Grainger Industrial Supply

Not too much money, and one can pick what kind of sealing surface material the valve is made from.
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 Old 06-23-2011, 09:50 AM   #15
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I bet mcmastercarr has similar valves and they might be less expensive...i'll look around.

Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post


Top mount is fucking dope.
I need a filter of some sort in my Firefox that auto blocks any thread with "top mount" in it. LOL

I have always hated that you have to break you neck to even see our turbos.

me: " yes its a special edition Mazda 3 with a turbo"
them: "yeah where is it"
me: "right back there under all that shit"
them: 'um..ok if you say so"


LOL
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 Old 06-23-2011, 10:13 AM   #16
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Originally Posted by Dano2010 View Post
me: " yes its a special edition Mazda 3 with a turbo"
them: "yeah where is it"
me: "right back there under all that shit"
them: 'um..ok if you say so"


LOL
With top mount... the turbo's actually do the talking:

turbo: "hey, kid!.... hey... want some candy?"
kid: *runs away*
turbo: "hey... hottie, c'm here"
hottie: "Oh, haai.... your a hawt turbo."
turbo: "shit baby, you have no idea, touch me"
hottie: *touches turbo* "Oh my... your reeaaal hot, i like that"
turbo: "like i said baby, you have no idea. Now show me what your working with"
hottie: *begins posing, and slowly slipping her blouse lower on her shoulders*
turbo: "that's what i'm talking about, mmmmm.... keep it going"
hottie: *blouse now around her waist* "I dunno, but for some reason, i just can't control myself around you"
turbo: "that's what i like... controlling the uncontrollable... you naughty lil minx, get in"
hottie: *enters car, begins seducing driver* "drive me and the turbo somewhere romantic, and maybe we can all have some fun"
driver: *mats the gas, really flexing and showing off the power of his top mount turbo*
hottie: *struggling to control her lust* "OOHH YEEEAH.... FLOOR IT, FLOOR IT, FLOORT IT"

*all 3 arrive at a beautiful ocean view, atop a desolate, scenic, cliff parking*

turbo: "baby, i've never been this rev'd up... lets have some fun."
hottie: "Mmmmmmm"
driver: "........ i fucking love my top mount turbo"
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 Old 06-23-2011, 10:57 AM   #17
 
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
flexing
This made me LOL
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 Old 06-23-2011, 11:41 AM   #18
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ROTFL!!!

your turbo is a playa

playa stay up!

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 Old 06-23-2011, 10:15 AM   #19
 
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hahahahaha.... waaaay tooo much time on your hands... or has possibly been day dreaming about the turbo for way too long......
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 Old 06-25-2011, 11:55 PM   #20
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The Jegs valves are not the same as the Moroso ones. Looking in the end, they are built differently inside. Bad news is they are no better. I ordered 2 and 1 was good and 1 leaked. Not as bad as the Moroso, but it still leaked. At this point, I'm sticking with the stock PCV valves on the IM side of things. The ones I have work great. I'm going to T into the system though and do a venturi pipe for the PCV line when in boost though.

Whatever you do, do not put a check valve of any kind on the valve cover. You definitely need to have a source for air up there.
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 Old 06-26-2011, 12:29 PM   #21
 
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I thought this thread was dead, then realized I must have accidentally unsubbed from it a couple weeks back, lol. Fucking nub. Anyways...

Originally Posted by doubleflusher View Post
Which itty bitty Odyssey battery do you have Doug?
I forget, but it tested bad, but holds a charge.. I'm giving it to a buddy in town who lends me his tools all the time. He uses a big bulky battery to power this old school boom box outside, and I figured he would like the Odyssey better. He said defnitely, but I haven't seen him yet. Don't run an Odyssey, they're too damn small and not enough juice.

Originally Posted by Dano2010 View Post
so let me break it down and correct me if I am wrong cuz I am wanting to revamp my evac system and have read both SS and SDs threads on the subject as well as all the recent posts here.

3 peeps now, have the Moroso CV's that apparently are not worth a damn?

Anthony
Doug
Joel
Just to clear up some confusion, I have the Jegs Crankcase Check valve between my intake mani and OCC, a NEW OEM pcv valve at the crankcase, and I have the Moroso check valve waiting to go on the slash pipe on the downpipe. The Jegs CC check valve didn't leak before I installed it, but I didn't test it... just blew through it hard both ways to check orientation. The Moroso does leak with just lunch nom nom capacity, but it should be under vacuum all the time so I don't think it should really matter. If someone finds a better CV for the venturi, let me know and I'll swap it out.

I'm not taking the mani off again until I get a ported intake mani either via DJ or Grimspeed. But, I'm hoping I can do that in few months, so if there's something better than the Jegs CC CV, I could easily swap that out while I'm in there. Need something that opens with very little psi (like .5 or less) to get the vac draw going.

We also need to keep in mind that the stock pcv on the CC sees a lot of oily shit, and I've heard they can get fouled over time and get stuck open or closed. If stuck closed, and you're BT you'll most likely be popping your dipstick as no air is getting out and we all know the breather is insufficient.

I'll let you guys know how it works after Tuesday. Hopefully I'll be able to get a bunch of wot runs in, and if the dipstick is good, I should be all set. I really wish I could afford to hop on a dyno before and after, just to see if there's any difference at all. I've heard you lose some ponies w/ excessive CC pressure... it would be nice to get some data, even if it was a marginal.


Originally Posted by i8urgti View Post
i love you and hate you for making this thread doug
Haha, thanks.



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 Old 06-26-2011, 07:04 PM   #22
 
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I was ripping it up messing with some dude on the way home from DQ w/ the gf, and getting on it hard. When I got home, I popped the hood to put the dipstick back in (kinda a habit now). Well, I was tearing it up quite a bit, and there was oil all over my mani and everywhere. I said fuck it and just pushed the dipstick back in, and closed the hood, lol. I'm gonna pick up some electronics cleaner (thanks Joel) tomorrow, and clean everything up, including the wireharness plugs.

Just a heads up... I already cleaned them once when I took off the mani for the fresh pcv valve + venturi, and there was oil INSIDE the big ass wire harness plugs by the dipstick. So, I'm gonna give them a proper douching tomorrow evening, then lay off the throttle until I'm done getting the DP drilled on Tuesday. I can't wait... sick of this fucking CC pressure, dipstick popping, oil spraying bullshit!!!
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 Old 06-27-2011, 12:18 AM   #23
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Dude, put a spring on the dip stick for the time being.... save yourself some hassle lol.
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 Old 06-27-2011, 01:13 AM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
Dude, put a spring on the dip stick for the time being.... save yourself some hassle lol.
I only have to deal with it for one more day, but after the clean up tomorrow, I'll pop the spring that's sitting in my car back on it to hold it in place.... just in case I get the urge to romp the throttle after clean up, which I definitely will . I'll be soooo happy once this venturi bs is done, and no more CC issues. Unless the shop/welder on Tues fucks up, but the owner seemed like he knows his shit well when I chatted with him
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 Old 06-27-2011, 07:04 AM   #25
 
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^^ i hope he does... becuz i would like to see how this solution works out... has anyone found out if any other solution has rised to this problem?? drilling my valve cover doent sound fun lol and or smart... i know the breather valve and aftermarket check vavles were bein tested, but didnt look promising.
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 Old 06-27-2011, 09:06 PM   #26
 
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are the bsd and injector seals absolutely necessary? ill probably do the seals anyway just wondering.
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 Old 06-27-2011, 10:47 PM   #27
 
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BSD isnt necessary, but its nice to have like 15lbs of rotational mass gone and some extra oil in your motor could never hurt. plus u can get the baffles too so the oil is distributed better and on hard cornering the oil wont slump to one side of the pan. if your doing all this work u might as well do it kinda thing... its pretty easy, its pretty much jst a removal and install some small stuff; i.e baffles and the plug i think.
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 Old 06-27-2011, 11:02 PM   #28
 
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The stock oil pan is baffled iirc, and to the injector seals are absolutely necessary. As for the BSD... I would argue that it is necessary even before BT. That ghetto blaster is robbing oil and purely a creature comfort thing. After a couple weeks, you won't even notice you deleted the BS. Which is exactly what it is... BS, lol.

The BSD is not absolutely necessary per se, but if you're gonna mod the hell out of your car and go BT, then you're well beyond the point of questioning it. It's not like it's expensive... $85 for the BSD kit (bolt to block of BSD feed hole and the baffled oil pan). It's just like any other mod... after a couple weeks, you don't even remember that you did it. Vibs aren't bad at all, and you're adding a qt of oil and #3 isn't starved. I can't imagine not doing it if going BT.... if anything I regret not doing it sooner.
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 Old 06-28-2011, 08:45 AM   #29
 
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+1^^
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 Old 06-28-2011, 09:02 AM   #30
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BSD definitely not necessary but good. Seals not necessary right away... but with increased hp, will most likely become necessary shortly after BT.
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 Old 06-28-2011, 09:10 AM   #31
 
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Venturi is done! It works well... no more dipstick launching. Pics:





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 Old 07-05-2011, 09:09 PM   #32
 
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Woot! MANI and DJ kit ordered, have a turbo on its way, all the really expensive stuff is done, hope your list is complete I'm gonna order everythiung on it soon
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 Old 07-06-2011, 10:48 AM   #33
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<3 top mount.
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 Old 07-24-2011, 01:58 PM   #34
 
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It's not that I care really, but I got some inside prices on some things, so I can't really say. Honestly though, I don't even really know, lol. I was collecting parts of the course of two months, and I didn't use an adding machine while buying everything, but all the parts are listed in the OP and the prices, except the Turbo & ewg I got thru SU Mark, and DJ's intake/DP/oil lines. Contact SU Mark @ turbo/ewg and contact DJ about the kit. The rest of the stuff is listed
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 Old 08-04-2011, 08:41 PM   #35
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Doug, keep an eye on your feed and return lines. I ended up buying this line and replacing both the feed and return lines completely. The line coming off the turbo return got brittle and cracked and was squirting coolant. This stuff should hold up to the heat. It is tight, but will fit over the PTO input. The feed side will need clamped down.
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 Old 08-04-2011, 11:25 PM   #36
 
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Originally Posted by jmhinkle View Post
Doug, keep an eye on your feed and return lines. I ended up buying this line and replacing both the feed and return lines completely. The line coming off the turbo return got brittle and cracked and was squirting coolant. This stuff should hold up to the heat. It is tight, but will fit over the PTO input. The feed side will need clamped down.
I actually check my lines periodically (like bi-weekly).... I'm just using ghetto fuel line as they didn't have heater/coolant hose at the time of install. Okay tbh, I mostly check the feed line, lol. I haven't noticed any leaks, but fuck, I wanted coolant hose.......... see why I'm so anal and ask 1M q's?? hahaha paranoid n00b ftw. We gotta get you smoking some kind bud, bc the minor paranoia would make you like me (disclaimer: Not necessarily a handsome game throwing pimp per se, but will make you double check the gurus 3x ). There's a method behind my madness . Thanks for the heads up bro!!! Where you using fuel line or coolant line? My thc/alcohol memory fails me now, but itirc fuel line?

Hope all is well with you mang! How's the new pto doing?
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 Old 08-09-2011, 03:48 PM   #37
 
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Originally Posted by jmhinkle View Post
Doug, keep an eye on your feed and return lines. I ended up buying this line and replacing both the feed and return lines completely. The line coming off the turbo return got brittle and cracked and was squirting coolant. This stuff should hold up to the heat. It is tight, but will fit over the PTO input. The feed side will need clamped down.
I just checked under the hood again, and noticed my coolant feed line has a flat spot on it (1-2"). I still have that hood liner on so it won't scrape anything, and that must have compressed it a bit under heat. I'll probably try to bend the feed line on the turbo down a bit when I go to replace it. The fuel line is not crushed, but it's definitely less than ideal. Thanks again for the heads up Joel. I'm going to take care of this in the near future w/ the high temp stuff.
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 Old 08-25-2011, 01:31 PM   #38
 
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Originally Posted by jmhinkle View Post
Doug, keep an eye on your feed and return lines. I ended up buying this line and replacing both the feed and return lines completely. The line coming off the turbo return got brittle and cracked and was squirting coolant. This stuff should hold up to the heat. It is tight, but will fit over the PTO input. The feed side will need clamped down.
Finally ordered this hose. My feed line is pretty flat right where it comes off the turbo... it can't take the heat! Thanks again Joel for the tips on this. I looked under that, and it's a really easy swap. I wasn't sure if I'd have access to the PTO, but I always forget how close everything is under there! Got it shipped priority mail, so I'll be able to bang this out next week.
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 Old 08-05-2011, 08:59 AM   #39
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He's saying change the coolant feed and coolant return lines to reinforced silicone, so they don't crack and make you lose coolant.
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Originally Posted by djuosnteisn View Post
He's saying change the coolant feed and coolant return lines to reinforced silicone, so they don't crack and make you lose coolant.
Understood. I was wondering if he used fuel line or coolant line prior... i.e. what was cracked and leaking on his set up? I had some people say fuel line would be fine, and others say don't use that crap because the alcohol in coolant will eat through it over time.
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