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 Old 03-20-2014, 09:00 AM   #1
 
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Default Low hp GT3071 help

My mods are in the sig. I put down 280 Virtual Dyno hp @ 22psi on 91 octane. I have 9* max timing any more it knocks. Its lex tuned. 175 bats at redline under wot. 75* at cruise. iat was at 81*. Help please.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 09:09 AM   #2
 
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BATS are through the roof and your timing is pretty low. have you, by chance, asked @Lex; about this issue? You're not providing any real information here
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 Old 03-20-2014, 09:13 AM   #3
 
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A datalog would be much more useful
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 Old 03-20-2014, 09:16 AM   #4
 
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I yes I talked to him. We're both pretty stumped. Here are 2 datalogs of the finished tune. I'm thinking I need a FMIC and meth. I want to stay away from meth if at all possible. You'll see my TMIC heatsoaks really fast which leads me to believe the core can't flow enough. before my gt3071 I had 130 bats on a OTS stage 2.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 09:25 AM   #5
 
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everything looks pretty on point, that is about the timing curve i typically end up with around here for BT's on pump gas or else we run into knock issues, so thats not a huge concern. I have seen a few people with exhaust issues, like a clogged cat run into similar issues. everything looks great but there is just no power, she can't breathe. Looked into that at all?
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 Old 03-20-2014, 09:29 AM   #6
 
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You're running a small intake, a Catted DP (probably best for the creep), and are running what i would consider to be rich the entire time.

I ran my 3071 through an ETS top mount, and have since sold that turbo to somone else also running an ETS top mount and it performed just fine, but i am willing to bet something is off somewhere...

Edit: Derp, you're on a speed6, the Gen1 hood scopp design is sub par at best. The ETS core is a great core, but a FMIC would probably do you a world of good at this point. Its not a flow issue, its a heat issue.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 09:30 AM   #7
 
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10.6 afrs, high as fuck bats, 300 g/s....... seems right
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 Old 03-20-2014, 09:38 AM   #8
 
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I bought the ebay DP catless and installed the 3" cat. I have to run a cat due to emission laws. The cat has 5000km on it but I'll check some time. As for power to car pulls hard just the dyno says otherwise. I have the SURE TMIC which is worse than the ETS if this matters. We are targetting 11.4 AFR but had to richen it due to knock. Lex did say that a 4" intake should get me to the 300hp marker. He also said that my fuel must be really bad.

What I was thinking of doing is getting a bigger intake( please chime in on which one I should get) FMIC ( Cxracing kit with treadstone core suggestions are welcomed) and maybe meth.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 09:46 AM   #9
 
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Originally Posted by MS6_Newb View Post
I bought the ebay DP catless and installed the 3" cat. I have to run a cat due to emission laws. The cat has 5000km on it but I'll check some time. As for power to car pulls hard just the dyno says otherwise. I have the SURE TMIC which is worse than the ETS if this matters. We are targetting 11.4 AFR but had to richen it due to knock. Lex did say that a 4" intake should get me to the 300hp marker. He also said that my fuel must be really bad.

What I was thinking of doing is getting a bigger intake( please chime in on which one I should get) FMIC ( Cxracing kit with treadstone core suggestions are welcomed) and maybe meth.
I'm thinking there was a misunderstanding somewhere along the lines, if you're targeting an 11.4, then you should be running an 11.4 . As far as the intake is concerned, i have always been a fan of HTP products, their fitment and customer service is top notch. I have always used Lex's MAF cals on the cars with those intakes as well and they've never given me grief.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 09:55 AM   #10
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Try less boost, more timing. The heat generated by lack of sufficient intercooling is making the car knock happy
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 Old 03-20-2014, 10:21 AM   #11
 
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I see you're running a AEM CAI w/ 4" TIP?
Try swapping out the CAI for a 3" or 3.5" SRI.

Do you have the shroud installed with the SU TMIC?
Also, put on all necessary heat shields to block off the heat from the ex mani. and DP
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 Old 03-20-2014, 10:26 AM   #12
 
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Im with others change out the intake for a bigger SRI, go FMIC since you are MS6. Your BATS seem outrageous. When I was running CPE TMIC I saw about 20 above ambient typically, now that I am FMIC I see about 8-10 degrees on pulls.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 10:50 AM   #13
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When did we do this tune? I am drawing a blank here since I don't remember an MS6 with these BATs in recent history. The ECU will richen AFRs another half point when BATs get over 130.

The biggest issue here is the outrageous temperatures (resulting in low oxygen density) and the 91 octane fuel which prevents further timing. The tune is set to pull timing further when BATs get to these levels so the fact it is knock free at 160-170* BAT on 91 and 21psi is good.

Send me a PM with your name so I can look through my records.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 12:31 PM   #14
 
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Lex - the tune as done last summer. it doesn't knock but I noticed that everyone is putting down more power. Other than that the tune is great.

I have all heat shields except the dp one as it didn't fit. I have the shroud on the TMIC but theres a 1/4 inch gap all around it.

I guess I'll get the CXRacing FMIC and the HTP intake and see how this goes. I hate throwing money at it but I hate seeing the bats that high and being 50whp below where I should be so to speak.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 12:39 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by MS6_Newb View Post
Lex - the tune as done last summer. it doesn't knock but I noticed that everyone is putting down more power. Other than that the tune is great.

I have all heat shields except the dp one as it didn't fit. I have the shroud on the TMIC but theres a 1/4 inch gap all around it.

I guess I'll get the CXRacing FMIC and the HTP intake and see how this goes. I hate throwing money at it but I hate seeing the bats that high and being 50whp below where I should be so to speak.
Cooling should definitely be a first priority.
Not only is the car more knock prone when running this hot, but you are leaving HP on the table simply due to the drop in efficiency of compressing air that is heated to 170*. As you cool the air you will see you will be flowing a good amount more at the same boost level.

Once you get an IC in there to keep BATs at bay send me a message and we can do a top up on the tune.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 01:16 PM   #16
 
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Originally Posted by Lex View Post
Cooling should definitely be a first priority.
Not only is the car more knock prone when running this hot, but you are leaving HP on the table simply due to the drop in efficiency of compressing air that is heated to 170*. As you cool the air you will see you will be flowing a good amount more at the same boost level.

Once you get an IC in there to keep BATs at bay send me a message and we can do a top up on the tune.
This was my plan. should I get meth as well or no?
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 Old 03-20-2014, 02:53 PM   #17
 
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You might look at getting a better intercooler with the cx racing piping kit.

PS lex is the man.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 03:03 PM   #18
 
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you already shelled out the cash to go BT. might as well shell out the extra 1k for the fmic and meth kit to get a comfortable 350+ whp

or run 50/50 e85 instead of the meth
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 Old 03-20-2014, 03:05 PM   #19
 
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Lex is the man, no argument here. Quick question, am I correct in assuming the MS3 cxracing kit fits on the ms6? I've looked at numerous photos and my car and it seems that it will. I don't like the ms6 kit they offer as it gets rid of the washer fluid which a definitely need where I live.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 03:27 PM   #20
 
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Fuck the FMIC, just get meth and tap the cold pipe for it. A better TMIC wouldn't hurt either, but a FMIC is just asking for more headaches with boost leaks, more piping, and losing the washer fluid reservoir.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 03:34 PM   #21
 
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Did your intake tract ever get coated in oil from a turbo dying or shooting oil out of the breathers? If so maybe the inside of your IC is coated in oil and not letting the air in there cool properly, just looking at the numbers alone looks as if you have no intercooler.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 03:40 PM   #22
 
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I have a Street Unit 3.25" TMIC and if I change it I'm going FMIC. My intercooler is clean on the inside, double checked to make sure.

Sidekick - the ms3 kits dont remove the washer hence why I asked if they would fit. The ms3 cxracing kit looks just like the cobb kit and the cobb kit works on the ms6 if I'm not mistaken.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 03:54 PM   #23
 
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Thehead's GTX3071R, fmic, cp-e exhaust mani build

I'm just gonna follow what this bro did
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 Old 03-20-2014, 04:22 PM   #24
 
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Originally Posted by Boostin'likeAboss View Post
Thehead's GTX3071R, fmic, cp-e exhaust mani build

I'm just gonna follow what this bro did
Thanks for the link. That looks identical to the ms3 cxracing kit except for being black and more silicon tubes in his. This confirms to me that the ms3 kit will fit.
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 Old 03-20-2014, 08:07 PM   #25
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WMI is another very effective way to chemically cool the air charge. With 91 in the tank the bump in octane is very welcome as well.

If I were to suggest the first step in your case between FMIC and WMI it would be WMI due to cost, complexity, and benefits.
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 Old 03-21-2014, 08:45 AM   #26
 
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WMI scares me in the form that if it fails how will the computer know and go back to a safe pump gas tune.
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 Old 03-21-2014, 11:18 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by MS6_Newb View Post
WMI scares me in the form that if it fails how will the computer know and go back to a safe pump gas tune.
A high end system will have a failsafe. Lower end systems you can watch your BATs occasionally. The tune can be setup such that if it does stop at one point the motor is not instantly hurt.
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 Old 03-21-2014, 09:48 AM   #28
 
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BAT flags.
You will be happy you installed it, once you do.
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 Old 03-21-2014, 01:09 PM   #29
 
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I would advise getting to the root of the problem before getting new parts to band-aid the issue. Assuming the intercooler is fine (possibly try addressing the gap in the shroud gap to see if it helps), I don't think you are running the turbo outside of it's efficiency zone. Have you looked into the BAT sensor?
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 Old 03-21-2014, 01:27 PM   #30
 
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It doesn't say in your profile where you are located. What kind of ambient temps are you seeing that is causing BATS to climb into the 170 range? Did you park a hot car in the sun for a while then go do a WOT pull immediately afterwards?

I have an MS6 with TMIC and do struggle with high BATs in the summer when ambient gets up into the 90+ range and the sun is blazin. But even then I really have to try to get BATs up much more than 140 rnage.
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 Old 03-21-2014, 03:19 PM   #31
 
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I'm from kingsville close to detroit. Ambient was around 85. But it's huMidity here that is the killer, 70%+
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 Old 03-21-2014, 07:48 PM   #32
 
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a gt3071 with 91 piss water octane is a horrible combo espically with that tmic.
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 Old 03-22-2014, 01:58 AM   #33
 
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Detroit skip meth go with crack

170 BAT wtf
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