My HTA3586 build

[doubleflusher]

I miss this turbo already.

[NJSPEED3]

In my quest to keeping oil and coolant temps as close to factory as possible, I decided in adding an additional radiator fan next to the stock one. My coolant temps are usually 20 degrees above normal lol (200 degrees+/-).

I took some measurements earlier
height 12"
width 10.5"
depth 2.5"- 3"

So after doing some searching I found this bad boy
Derale Performance High Output Curved Blade Fans 16110 - SummitRacing.com

Im going to gut the back of the radiator frame, right around the plastic flappers. I'd like to bring coolant back down to 180-190 as oppose to 200-225 lol. I may do an external oil cooler eventually as well if it even needs one after this.

I'll just use this thread to full you guys in on my progress.

[superskaterxes]

you need the fan controller like i have, my ECT never breaks 200 on the hottest day sitting in traffic

[NJSPEED3]

Originally Posted by superskaterxes you need the fan controller like i have, my ECT never breaks 200 on the hottest day sitting in traffic

I'm gonna pick one up to control both fans.

Keep in mind ms6's already have 2 fans and If im not mistaken your guys have a bigger radiator.

[dantes5823]

Originally Posted by superskaterxes you need the fan controller like i have, my ECT never breaks 200 on the hottest day sitting in traffic

link please.

[dantes5823]

doesnt @doubleflusher; have a radiator you can use......

[NJSPEED3]

Originally Posted by dantes5823 doesnt @doubleflusher; have a radiator you can use......

yup its an aluminum core, that fool has parts for days. Im going to give this stuff a shot before having to mess with the radiator.



this
Derale Thread-In Thermostat Fan Control with Relay and Dual Threads - 180 Degrees Derale Radiator Fans D16720

plus replace the 180 sensor for the 190 one.
http://www.etrailer.com/Radiator-Fan...le/D16731.html

Plus
Titek Water Temp Gauge Adapter 30mm Radiator Hose New | eBay

Im not exactly sure what our stock coolant hose diameter is I'll have to see. I know the ms3/ms6's use different sizes.

I may try just running the controller on the stock fan to see if that alone does the trick.
@superskaterxes; has been running this set up for a while so we'll see if it does just as well on the ms3.

[802MS3]

cobb still hasn't released the table that controls the kick-on/off temps of the fan yet. lame.

this will be my first upgrade of 2013 Koyorad Racing - News and Updates

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by 802MS3 cobb still hasn't released the table that controls the kick-on/off temps of the fan yet. lame. this will be my first upgrade of 2013 Koyorad Racing - News and Updates

+1

I think we have all been dying for that control

~217*F is not the right time to kick on for us power freeks lol

[doubleflusher]

Originally Posted by 802MS3 cobb still hasn't released the table that controls the kick-on/off temps of the fan yet. lame. this will be my first upgrade of 2013 Koyorad Racing - News and Updates

Buy mine

[rfinkle2]

Originally Posted by NJSPEED3 yup its an aluminum core, that fool has parts for days. Im going to give this stuff a shot before having to mess with the radiator. this Derale Thread-In Thermostat Fan Control with Relay and Dual Threads - 180 Degrees Derale Radiator Fans D16720 plus replace the 180 sensor for the 190 one. Derale Thread-In Thermostat Fan Control with Dual Threads - 190 Degrees Derale Radiator Fans D16731 Plus Titek Water Temp Gauge Adapter 30mm Radiator Hose New | eBay Im not exactly sure what our stock coolant hose diameter is I'll have to see. I know the ms3/ms6's use different sizes. I may try just running the controller on the stock fan to see if that alone does the trick. @superskaterxes; has been running this set up for a while so we'll see if it does just as well on the ms3.

1.25" i.d. fits snug on the ms3.

[doubleflusher]

HOW-TO: Auxiliary Fan controller

[NJSPEED3]

Originally Posted by doubleflusher HOW-TO: Auxiliary Fan controller

MSF test mule FTMFW!

[mczimer]

Anyone consider running the AWR radiator? I think Tony will get one to you if you talk to him, as it was not sold online anymore, IIRC

[doubleflusher]

Originally Posted by mczimer Anyone consider running the AWR radiator? I think Tony will get one to you if you talk to him, as it was not sold online anymore, IIRC

I called AWR and they said they we're not going to sell it, as there was almost no demand for it.

The Koyorad can be had for less than half of what the AWR unit cost.

[mczimer]

What koyorad do you run a MS6? I have never seen that done before

[doubleflusher]

Originally Posted by mczimer What koyorad do you run a MS6? I have never seen that done before

Koyorad does not make one for an MS6. Nor do I have an MS6.

[NJSPEED3]

[doubleflusher]

That blows

[dturboman]

Originally Posted by NJSPEED3 In my quest to keeping oil and coolant temps as close to factory as possible, I decided in adding an additional radiator fan next to the stock one. My coolant temps are usually 20 degrees above normal lol (200 degrees+/-). I took some measurements earlier height 12" width 10.5" depth 2.5"- 3" So after doing some searching I found this bad boy Derale Performance High Output Curved Blade Fans 16110 - SummitRacing.com Im going to gut the back of the radiator frame, right around the plastic flappers. I'd like to bring coolant back down to 180-190 as oppose to 200-225 lol. I may do an external oil cooler eventually as well if it even needs one after this. I'll just use this thread to full you guys in on my progress.

I see 200 Max with the block filled and IC blocking most of the rad

I was seeing 220's for a little while, took 3 bleeding to get it back down to where it needed to be.

[NJSPEED3]

One 6th port 3" NJSPEED cold pipe done.




I'm probably going to eliminate that one straight coupler eventually. I'm thinking of doing a vband connection at the tb once I pick up Pablo's 75mm joint.

[superskaterxes]

stock TB FTL..........

[doubleflusher]

Running car FTL.........

[Voltron]

Nice Gerry....I'm assuming the welding came out ok?
@NJSPEED3;

[helmetface]

Originally Posted by NJSPEED3

Nice stock horn noob

[atvfreek]

Originally Posted by helmetface Nice stock horn noob

Big horns are for diesel trucks, not race cars.

Looking awesome Gerry!

[helmetface]

Originally Posted by atvfreek Big horns are for diesel trucks, not race cars. Looking awesome Gerry!

Negative!


horn decibel is equivalent to penis girth!

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by helmetface Nice stock horn noob

money shall not be wasted on horns when trying to go fast

[Monotonous ONE]

Louder horns emit a more powerful frequency which at speeds send air waves into the path ahead and creates a drag like effect by lowering the air density directly in front of the vehicle.

[helmetface]

Originally Posted by Monotonous ONE Louder horns emit a more powerful frequency which at speeds send air waves into the path ahead and creates a drag like effect by lowering the air density directly in front of the vehicle.

See, I knew I was on to something.

[Realgib3]

Why did you decide to keep the BOV on the cold pipe instead of the hot pipe? Any specific reason? My Tial runs in almost that same spot, but on the hotside, with great success.

[NJSPEED3]

Originally Posted by Realgib3 Why did you decide to keep the BOV on the cold pipe instead of the hot pipe? Any specific reason? My Tial runs in almost that same spot, but on the hotside, with great success.

My hotpipe is routed below the car, there isn't a clean spot for it. I been running my bov in that location for quite a while without any issues.

Sent from my XT894 using Tapatalk 2

[Realgib3]

Originally Posted by NJSPEED3 My hotpipe is routed below the car, there isn't a clean spot for it. I been running my bov in that location for quite a while without any issues. Sent from my XT894 using Tapatalk 2

Yeah mines routed under the car too, Ill try to get a pic of it, but its almost in the same spot as yours, just on the other side of the IC.

Only reason I went that way is for the added safety of not somehow releasing fuel from the 6 port into the engine bay.

[NJSPEED3]

Yup agreed, my location 100% fuel proof though.

6th port is directly before the tb, and the bov flange is on the top part of the pipe (1 o'clock). There is no way for fuel to actually release past the bov this way. Its all about gravity and air flow. Hot pipe is the safest location no doubt.

[ms3blackmica]

Originally Posted by helmetface See, I knew I was on to something.

The only benefit that I can see from a loud horn is soundin that shit off in front of teh gf's house cause lord knows she takes 1hr to come out.

Maybe that would piss her off enough..

[helmetface]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica The only benefit that I can see from a loud horn is soundin that shit off in front of teh gf's house cause lord knows she takes 1hr to come out. Maybe that would piss her off enough..

My car idles loud enough to piss anyone off:

Gt30 w/ 3.5" intake
Catless
Cheap catback

Yup

My horn however is great for those dumbass moms thinking they own the roads with their $60k bitchmobiles..something is wrong with the wiring on mine so it fluctuates, wawawawawa

100x more annoying

[dantes5823]

i want more njspeed3 hard parts! im getting rid of my only part!

[NJSPEED3]

More Hard parts u say






http://static.photobucket.com/player...222_174300.mp4

[ms3blackmica]

me likeyyyyyy Gerry !

Did you have to cut out that section where the flapper doors are?

[NJSPEED3]

Originally Posted by ms3blackmica me likeyyyyyy Gerry ! Did you have to cut out that section where the flapper doors are?