Corksport Endlink CLUNKING NOISE

[Atomic41]

Problem with Corksport endlink kit !!!

I just want to know if it's normal a lot of clunking noise ... with this kit.

I just pass for your kit this afternoon but after I go out to a run test ... The clunking noise was so LOUD that I can't tolerate that.

Can you confirm me that it's not normal ????

But when i grab one when I open the box already they have a "lousse" in ... is it normal ? Do you have a problem (already know) with your endlink kit ?

How I suppose to install them to have ZERO noise ...

The noise was at his highest point when I drive at low speed over bump ...

Video link :

#1 -

MVI_5973.MOV - YouTube

MVI_5973.MOV - YouTube

#2 -

MVI_5978.MOV - YouTube

MVI_5978.MOV - YouTube

#3 -

MVI_5979.MOV - YouTube

MVI_5979.MOV - YouTube

[helmetface]

I hear this is the complaint with a lot of aftermarket endlinks.

Which is why I decided to just replace mine with stocks

[themytb]

well its not right to have a clunk, but I don't know what the fuck else you're trying to say.

[grantmm]

From what I've experienced, it could be two things. Then again, I've never installed or even seen the Corksport endlinks, so these suggestions are general shots in the dark.

Check to see that the top bolt isn't hitting the body when the suspension compresses.

Check to see if the endlinks are too short and that the sway bar is hitting the body here:

[Don06speed6]

Also check to make sure endlinks are completely tight, i had a clunk in my front and one of the endlinks needed like a quarter turn more to tighten.

[Atomic41]

Updated with videos

[grantmm]

If the sound is the thud noise every second or two in the first video, then the cause is most likely not what I suggested. Tighten those little bastards.

[Don06speed6]

Still going with my first post, tighten them again.

[Atomic41]

With the weight of the car on the suspension or it doesn't matter if the car is on the lift in the air no weight on the suspension ???

[Sacrilicious]

yes, you should be doing this with the suspension loaded, but that's going to making reaching the adjustment nut at the top of the link really hard, so you're going to have to crank that one tight ahead of time. i'm going to guess that your problem is that one or more of your adjustment nuts came loose. i had the same problem when i was using the AWR adjustable end links.

so far as i can figure it, the really thin adjustment nuts are really hard to keep tight once you start twisting the end link back and forth from turning the steering wheel. my AWRs just wouldn't stay put no matter how hard i cranked, so after a shitload of annoyance, i ended up trying out the turnermotorsport end links, and they worked from the start without issues. notice the thicker adjustment nuts (i'm pretty sure these are the ones that fit our car, but can't be sure):

Turner Motorsport | Turner Motorsport Custom Length Adjustable Front Sway Bar End Links (Pair)

just make sure you figure out how long you need your links to be. the easiest way is to attach just the top of the end link and put the wheels back on the car and let it rest at normal ride height...then measure how long you need the link to be to attach to the bottom position without preload. in my case (bilsteins + cobb springs), i called up and had them make custom links that were 1" longer than what they normally carry. they were really good about it, though, and had them out to me in about 2 weeks at no extra charge.

good luck with your problem...i know how annoying this can be...

[Atomic41]

Originally Posted by Sacrilicious yes, you should be doing this with the suspension loaded, but that's going to making reaching the adjustment nut at the top of the link really hard, so you're going to have to crank that one tight ahead of time. i'm going to guess that your problem is that one or more of your adjustment nuts came loose. i had the same problem when i was using the AWR adjustable end links. so far as i can figure it, the really thin adjustment nuts are really hard to keep tight once you start twisting the end link back and forth from turning the steering wheel. my AWRs just wouldn't stay put no matter how hard i cranked, so after a shitload of annoyance, i ended up trying out the turnermotorsport end links, and they worked from the start without issues. notice the thicker adjustment nuts (i'm pretty sure these are the ones that fit our car, but can't be sure): Turner Motorsport | Turner Motorsport Custom Length Adjustable Front Sway Bar End Links (Pair) just make sure you figure out how long you need your links to be. the easiest way is to attach just the top of the end link and put the wheels back on the car and let it rest at normal ride height...then measure how long you need the link to be to attach to the bottom position without preload. in my case (bilsteins + cobb springs), i called up and had them make custom links that were 1" longer than what they normally carry. they were really good about it, though, and had them out to me in about 2 weeks at no extra charge. good luck with your problem...i know how annoying this can be...

Do you think I must change my endlink for another kit like yours ???

[Sacrilicious]

Originally Posted by Atomic41 Do you think I must change my endlink for another kit like yours ???

i was probably not very clear on that: no, i don't think you should go to the extreme that i did unless you absolutely have to. for now, i would do the following if i were you:

1. check to make sure that no part of the end link is hitting the wheel well or some other part of the car.

2. do the adjustment to the end links with the suspension fully loaded as i mentioned above.

3. crank the adjustment nuts nice and tight when you have them where you want them to be.

4. hope for the best.

if doing all this doesn't work, then you're going to have to consider going the route i went. in the meantime, you should definitely give CS a call if you are at wit's end. at the minimum, see if they will refund/help you out with your situation.

[Atomic41]

Originally Posted by Sacrilicious i was probably not very clear on that: no, i don't think you should go to the extreme that i did unless you absolutely have to. for now, i would do the following if i were you: 1. check to make sure that no part of the end link is hitting the wheel well or some other part of the car. 2. do the adjustment to the end links with the suspension fully loaded as i mentioned above. 3. crank the adjustment nuts nice and tight when you have them where you want them to be. 4. hope for the best. if doing all this doesn't work, then you're going to have to consider going the route i went. in the meantime, you should definitely give CS a call if you are at wit's end. at the minimum, see if they will refund/help you out with your situation.

Do you think I can put some locktite on the shape where they are the adjustement nuts ?

[Sacrilicious]

Originally Posted by Atomic41 Do you think I can put some locktite on the shape where they are the adjustement nuts ?

yes, you definitely can. i only tried the blue stuff, but it was not enough. i probably should have tried the red stuff too, but the way i figured it was that if it required the red stuff just to keep from backing out, i was just setting myself up for unexpected fail sometime in the future when i could least afford it...

for reference, i did not use any kind of loctite on the turnermotorsport links (fyi: i think they outsource to power grid for their links)...just cranked it decently tight and it has held without complain for over 6 months now.

[I<3Groceries]

Just out of curiosity, if you guys aren't getting corner balanced, or if you aren't pre loading one side for circuit racing or something, why get adjustable end links? Why not use the OE links?

Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

[Sacrilicious]

Originally Posted by I<3Groceries Just out of curiosity, if you guys aren't getting corner balanced, or if you aren't pre loading one side for circuit racing or something, why get adjustable end links? Why not use the OE links? Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

i don't know about the OP, but i did it because i altered the suspension geometry by switching to the bilsteins + cobb springs.

[Atomic41]

Samething for me ... I'm now on bilstein B8 + eibach pro kit

[grantmm]

Originally Posted by I<3Groceries Just out of curiosity, if you guys aren't getting corner balanced, or if you aren't pre loading one side for circuit racing or something, why get adjustable end links? Why not use the OE links? Sent from my Galaxy Nexus using Tapatalk

<< Corner balanced. I don't see why anyone wouldn't invest the little bit of extra time to do this.

[Atomic41]

So I retight all the nuts from my endlink and the noise is there again ...

So I think it don't come from my endlink. I try in the same time to put my stock endlink and the noise was there either so ... it's not the endlink the problem ...

Any others ideas ?

[Atomic41]

Do you think it might be my corksport endlink was not at the good lenght and if is too long it could be the sway bar hitting my car frame.

Do you have a measure (the length) it must be to have no clunking issue ?

[Atomic41]

Must I go shorter or longer than my oem endlink with my setup (bilstein B8 + eibach pro kit) for my ajustable endlink ?

[kritz]

If you lower the car it will put preload on the FSB, by having the adjustable links you can take it out. As far as the clunking goes check to see if your tie rods are good as well.

[Nliiitend1]

Originally Posted by kritz If you lower the car it will put preload on the FSB, by having the adjustable links you can take it out. As far as the clunking goes check to see if your tie rods are good as well.

Just a point of clarification here:

You're not really preloading the bar per se if you lower it equally on both sides, but you ARE changing the "angle of the dangle" of the swaybar at static height, which can adversely affect bar engagement feel and transitional behavior if that angle changes too much.

I myself haven't gone to the trouble of corner-weighting my car, so I'm using some appropriate-length non-adjustable endlinks on my car for the time being.

[Atomic41]

So you think a can solve my problem by just rethigten all that like a FREAK

[kritz]

Check the tierods, I just had them replaced on my car and one was not tight making a rattling clunking noise. I had to make mine longer, but that was with the oem struts.

[Atomic41]

Are you listening the noise in my videos ???

I think it's more like my sway bar hitting my subframe ? or you think it can be my tie rod as loud as that ...

[kritz]

Did you tighten and recheck all the subframe blots after the @CorkSport FSB install?
If the FSB is hitting the car you will see tell tail of it on the bar if not the underbody.
That sounded like my tie rod issue.

[Atomic41]

Originally Posted by kritz Did you tighten and recheck all the subframe blots after the @CorkSport FSB install? If the FSB is hitting the car you will see tell tail of it on the bar if not the underbody. That sounded like my tie rod issue.

No I will check that ... and for your tie rod how much it cost ?

[kritz]

Mine were under warranty, 60,000 miles. I think they run $90 each. Check onlinemazdaparts.

[Atomic41]

No other suggestions ???

[Nliiitend1]

What length did you make the endlinks before you installed them? Longer than OEM, shorter than OEM, or equivalent to OEM??

[Atomic41]

equivalent ...

[Nliiitend1]

Well then I highly doubt they're hitting the control arms.

Have you put the OEM links back on to see if the noise is still there?

[Atomic41]

Yes just one side and the noise is still there.

[Nliiitend1]

One side is not enough to rule them out as a source, IMO... Both sides are engaged any time the bar is being "worked," so-to-speak.

Is there any evidence (scrapes, scratch marks, dings, etc.) that the Hotchkiss bar is making contact with anything (tie rods, subframe, control arms, etc.)?

[Atomic41]

Originally Posted by Nliiitend1 One side is not enough to rule them out as a source, IMO... Both sides are engaged any time the bar is being "worked," so-to-speak. Is there any evidence (scrapes, scratch marks, dings, etc.) that the Hotchkiss bar is making contact with anything (tie rods, subframe, control arms, etc.)?

So must I try to drive without endlink on to see if the noise still there ?

[Nliiitend1]

You could do that, or you could put the stock endlinks back on as well if you still have them.

If driving around with no endlinks gets rid of the noise that could also just mean that the bar itself could have been making contact with something (possibly even with no dependence on the endlinks themselves).

If you put the OEM links back on (assuming they're still in decent shape) and the noise goes away, then it's a bit easier to narrow the diagnosis down to the CS endlinks...

[kritz]

Any luck yet? Keep us posted.

[Atomic41]

No news for today sorry ... I just receive cold so I don't go out today but I will keep you posted

thanks again for your help

[Atomic41]

Somebody know ... if the endlink attach between bilstein B8 and stock shock is the same ?